Month: August 2019

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14th Aug 2019

Over the past three years, Australian denim brand Neuw Denim has been quietly working on its sustainable practices. The brand’s trio of co-founders, Par Lundqvist, Richard Bell and Stephen Little have already secured a large fanbase for their premium denim label but that doesn’t mean they were intending to stop there. In May of this year, the brand launched Zero, a dedicated sustainable initiative to reduce the environmental impact of the denim it produces. The new collection of Zero denim furthers the brand’s efforts to make denim that will last the test of time in our wardrobes but not in landfill. Ahead of the launch of a new collaboration with Holly Ryan, which includes a range of graphic buttons for the Zero pieces specifically, Lundqvist fills us in on the new range. 

What can you tell me about Zero, your new sustainable denim collection?
“Zero is something we are really proud of. Zero completely replaces traditional denim manufacturing processes, reinventing them with the sole objective to decrease the overall environmental impact. With Zero specifically, we decided to completely overhaul the washing process, simply because it was the biggest immediate impact we could make. We are extremely proud to say that the water used in our manufacturing process is reused, renewed and recycled with zero waste being discharged back into the grid as contaminated sewage. In addition to this, Zero eliminates classic stone-washing methods by adopting the use of synthetic stones in replace of traditional pumice. Made from an environmental resin this innovative alternative leaves no washing waste or sludge behind, decreasing our carbon footprint and allowing us to clean and recycle water in a much more energy efficient manner. Lastly, we decided it was integral to eradicate the use of chemicals in the distressing phase.”

Why have you chosen now as the right time to launch Zero?
“We’ve actively been exploring new methods and techniques to reduce water use, chemical use, and waste production for quite some time and only now are we confident that our product and process is good enough for market.”

Can you tell the story of how Neuw came about?
“Neuw was started by three friends from Melbourne and Stockholm with a shared fascination for premium denim and alternative music – two defining pillars that still remain today. Their dream was to bring quality denim out of the history books and into the 21st century.”

Denim production does have a large impact on the environment. Can you please explain why this is?
“Fashion is such an imperfect business and we admit to being a part of it. We’re not going to pretend we are perfect, the industry has a long way to go to improve the impact it has on our planet. However as a brand and as individuals we place sustainability and environmental impact at the top of our priority list. We have clear and specific goals for a cleaner, and greener future. We are not as good as we want to be yet, but we are certainly making significant progress every day.”

What can you tell us about your factories and how you continue to evaluate the efficiency of these spaces?
“As an industry, we must innovate for a more sustainable future. At Neuw, our staff, our designers, our factories, and our laundries are all focused on decreasing our footprint in many different ways. Our commitment, across both our supply chain and our business operations which includes stores and head office, is focused on the reduction of energy, waste and water, the elimination of hazardous substances in our products and increasing the sustainability of the raw materials we source. We’re passionate about working with the best mills, laundries and factories in the business, particularly those making sustainability a priority so we’re proud to share some of our key partners and their efforts. And we don’t take that for granted.”

What denim trends are you seeing for this coming winter? What should we invest in?
“A trend that will never die, skinnies will always be our mainstay in our wardrobe. We are however seeing a huge shift towards looser, straighter, and more fashion forward silhouettes. Waists are still super high but leg profiles have become more relaxed. Crop kick flares and crop straights are the perfect investment for this winter, worn with ankle boots, dirty cons or dad sneakers. We’re feeling vintage-inspired indigo washes and faded blacks this winter season, paired up with statement blazers or bold chunky knitwear.”

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For a quick lesson in how political insults are born, look no further than Fredo. On Monday night, the name was trending on Twitter, thanks to a viral video showing an altercation between the CNN anchor Chris Cuomo and a guy at a bar in Shelter Island, New York. The man had called Cuomo “Fredo,” having apparently picked up the nickname from “The Rush Limbaugh Show.” “Punk-ass bitches from the right call me Fredo,” Cuomo retorts, getting in the man’s grill. “My name is Chris Cuomo. I’m an anchor on CNN. Fredo is from ‘The Godfather.’ He was the weak brother.” Cuomo goes on, “They’re using it as an Italian aspersion. Any of you Italian? Are you Italian? It’s a fucking insult to your people. It’s an insult to your people. It’s like the N-word for us. Is that a cool fucking thing?” The man stammers, claiming that he thought it was Cuomo’s actual name, and Cuomo explains, “You call me Fredo, it’s like I call you ‘punk bitch.’ You like that?”

Cuomo’s detractors were soon posting videos of CNN commentators using “Fredo” to diss Representative Devin Nunes and Donald Trump, Jr., as proof of Cuomo’s hypocrisy. Sean Hannity offered an unlikely defense, saying that Cuomo “has zero to apologize for.” CNN backed up Cuomo, too, stating that he had been “verbally attacked with the use of an ethnic slur,” which prompted Trump, Jr., to call Cuomo’s self-justification an “excuse just as fake as his news.” Conservatives gleefully decried the false equivalency between “Fredo” and the N-word. The gun-rights advocate Dana Loesch tweeted, “Is Fredo a pejorative? Yes. It refers to the dumbest Corleone. Is it racist? No. . . . This is all so mind-numbingly idiotic.” Just when you thought things couldn’t get more mind-numbingly idiotic, the President of the United States, aroused on Tuesday morning by the smell of a fresh taunt, weighed in. “I thought Chris was Fredo also,” he tweeted. “The truth hurts.”

Political metaphor tends to flatten all cultural references. Kabuki theatre, a rich and venerable art form dating back to seventeenth-century Japan, has become Washington speak for “empty spectacle.” “Groundhog Day,” the genius existential Bill Murray comedy, is code for “mindless repetition.” It’s dismaying to see Fredo Corleone, brilliantly played by John Cazale in “The Godfather” and “The Godfather: Part II,” reduced to a political weapon, deployed in a disingenuous spat over what constitutes racist hate speech. Trump, Jr., was likely embracing the chance to fling the nickname at someone else and make it stick, having been dubbed the Fredo of the Trump family since his father rose to political power. (For my money, I get more of a Fredo vibe from Eric Trump. Don, Jr., is more like the hot-headed Sonny, with Ivanka as the stealthy, power-hungry Michael, and Tiffany as Connie, the little sister who mostly sits on the sidelines.)

The implication of calling someone Fredo, like that of the alt-right insult “cuck,” is of weakness, specifically a failure to live up to the masculine ideal. But Fredo is more of a complex, tragic figure than political mudslinging would allow. In Mario Puzo’s original novel, Vito Corleone’s second son is described as “a child every Italian prayed to the saints for. Dutiful, loyal, always at the service of his father, living with his parents at age thirty. He was short and burly, not handsome but with the same Cupid head of the family, the curly helmet of hair over the round face and sensual bow-shaped lips.” Cazale, whom Francis Ford Coppola and his casting director, Fred Roos, spotted in the Off Broadway play “Line,” looked nothing like that: he was drawn out and pale, with a forehead notably lacking in curls. And yet he fit the character perfectly. Cazale, one of the great (and undersung) character actors of the nineteen-seventies, excelled at showing weakness, cowardice, and pettiness. He was usually cast alongside a more robust leading man, whether it be Al Pacino (in the “Godfather” movies and “Dog Day Afternoon”), Gene Hackman (in Coppola’s “The Conversation”), or Robert De Niro (in “The Deer Hunter”). But he never reduced his characters to their most mockable flaws, infusing his performances with understated humor, sweetness, and melancholy. Think of him as the slow-witted accomplice to Pacino’s bank robber in “Dog Day Afternoon.” When Pacino asks him if there’s any special country he wants to escape to, Cazale whispers, “Wyoming.” The line—both funny and heartbreakingly innocent—was Cazale’s ad lib.

Coppola had a soft spot for Fredo, who reminded him of his less accomplished uncles. “I think Italians that come from that little-town mentality are very hard on their own, and very cruel unto those who don’t quite cut the mustard at the same level that the star brothers or the star uncles do,” the director once said. In “The Godfather,” Cazale gave Fredo that sense of well-meaning haplessness, as when he fails to protect his father from an assassination attempt at the market. The second “Godfather” film brought Fredo into the foreground (not his natural place in the family portrait) and deepened him. Fredo’s involvement in a bungled attempt on Michael’s life (“I know it was you”), which leads Michael to succumb to his darkest instincts and commit fratricide, is at the movie’s tragic core, and it gives Cazale the most beautifully acted scenes of his career. The most iconic is the brothers’ conversation in the boathouse, when Fredo pitifully pleads for respect: “Send Fredo off to do this. Send Fredo off to do that. Let Fredo take care of some Mickey Mouse night club somewhere. . . . I can handle things! I’m smart! Not like everybody says!” Cazale delivers this feckless rant with wide-eyed rage and self-pity, flopping up and down in his lounge chair like a beached guppy.

But my favorite moment comes just before he’s whacked, as he sits with his young nephew Anthony by the lake with their fishing gear. Fredo recalls the time when he was a kid and went fishing with his father and brothers, and he was the only one to catch a fish—the secret, he tells Anthony, is to say a Hail Mary every time you put your line down. It’s probably the only time Fredo ever outshone his brothers, and you get the sense that he would have led a perfectly content life if he’d been born into a clan of, say, mild-mannered dentists. Fredo’s death is as wrenching as it is only because we care so deeply about him—he’s pathetic, sure, but he has reserves of humanity that he never got to express, holding himself to an impossible yardstick of power and violence when all he wanted to do was go fishing.

Like the character he became famous for, Cazale had a knack for getting passed over. He made only five films, but each was nominated for Best Picture at the Academy Awards. Cazale never got a nomination. He died, from cancer, in 1978, at the age of forty-two, with his girlfriend, Meryl Streep, at his bedside. If there’s any solace in seeing Fredo become a political slingshot ball, it’s that Cazale’s portrayal is indelible enough to merit the attention. More than four decades later, Fredo’s still not getting any respect, but at least he’s getting noticed.

Why Joe Biden’s Gaffes Matter

August 14, 2019 | News | No Comments

This past Wednesday, in Burlington, Iowa, Joe Biden gave a speech to address what he and his Presidential campaign are solemnly calling “the Battle for the Soul of Our Nation.” A response to the gun massacres in El Paso, Texas, and Dayton, Ohio, the previous weekend, his speech began with the declaration that “the words of a President matter.” This was the Biden that he and his campaign want the country to see: confident, direct, the anti-Donald Trump. “In both clear language and in code, this President has fanned the flames of white supremacy in this nation,” the former Vice-President said. “His low-energy, vacant-eyed mouthing of the words written for him condemning white supremacists this week I don’t believe fooled anyone.”

A day later, in Des Moines, Biden addressed a group called the Iowa Asian and Latino Coalition, an organization that was started a few years ago to advocate for minority communities in a state that is ninety per cent white. The event took place at a plumbers-and-steamfitters union hall, in a stuffy room crammed with coalition members, the general public, campaign staff, and press. About twenty minutes into his remarks, Biden turned to the issue of education. “Does anybody here think that twelve years of education is enough for the twenty-first century?” he said. “I don’t know anybody who thinks that.” He called for increased funding to Title I schools, increased teacher pay, and universal pre-K. “We have this notion that, somehow, if you’re poor, you cannot do it,” he said, speaking of academic success, before adding, “Poor kids are just as bright and just as talented as white kids.” There were groans in the room, and a smattering of hesitant applause. Biden quickly corrected himself. “Wealthy people,” he said. “Black kids. Asian kids.” Within moments, reporters had put the quote on their Twitter feeds. Trump’s campaign, delighted, clipped the video and tweeted about it, too.

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Biden has a history of talking about race in ways that make him look, at best, like an old and out-of-touch white guy. At an Upper East Side fund-raiser, in June, he spoke warmly of his days in the Senate working alongside segregationists. “At least there was some civility,” he said. Those words set off weeks of discussion about whether Biden, despite his lead in the polls and his decades at the heights of power in Washington, was the right person to lead the Democratic Party’s repudiation of a President who has championed racism and nativism. With Biden’s “poor kids” comment getting immediate attention, his campaign tried to get ahead of the story by putting out a statement, saying, “Vice President Biden misspoke and immediately corrected himself during a refrain he often uses to make the point that all children deserve a fair shot.”

But the story was bigger than the single quote. Biden misspoke several times during his trip to Iowa—the state where, in 1987, his first run for the Presidency fell apart, after he plagiarized Neil Kinnock, the former British Labour Party leader, in his stump speech. At the Iowa State Fair, on Thursday, he screwed up one of his new slogans, telling a crowd, “We choose truth over facts!” At the Asian and Latino Coalition, he referred to Margaret Thatcher when he meant Theresa May, and spoke of using biofuels to power “steamships.” (On Monday, the group announced that it had decided to endorse Kamala Harris.) On Saturday, after an appearance at a gun-control forum hosted by Moms Demand Action, Biden told reporters that the students who survived the shooting in Parkland, Florida, last year “came up to see me when I was Vice-President,” even though the massacre at Marjory Stoneman Douglas High School occurred a year after Biden left the White House. The media narrative soon became, simply, What about those gaffes?

A political gaffe, in a definition once offered by the writer and editor Michael Kinsley, is “when a politician tells the truth—some obvious truth he isn't supposed to say.” In this sense, although Biden has described himself as a “gaffe machine,” his problem isn’t gaffes. When Representative Kevin McCarthy crowed, in 2015, that the Republican Party’s partisan investigations of the Benghazi attack had succeeded in hurting Hillary Clinton’s popularity—that was a gaffe. In contrast, Biden’s misstatements this weekend weren’t “obvious truths.” They were ugly confusions, maybe, or embarrassing flubs—the press, the public, and even Biden’s surrogates spent a few days searching for the right way to describe them. On Friday, Tim Winter, the chairman of the local county Democratic Party, introduced Biden at a fairgrounds event, in a town called Boone. “Let’s talk about Joe Biden’s heart,” Winter said. “The media sometimes calls these gaffes, or slipups. And what they really are is a man with a good heart showing his caring leadership, even when it is politically incorrect to do so.”

Trump’s supporters made similar arguments in 2016. We take him seriously, they said, not literally. Obviously, Trump and Biden are not comparable, politically or personally, but it is becoming easier to imagine that, if Biden does become the Democratic nominee, the Party and its supporters will be in for months of apologizing and explaining things away. After this weekend, Biden’s campaign criticized national reporters for focussing on Biden’s words at the expense of the issues. But Biden’s the one out there every day saying that “words matter.” Maybe that’s the gaffe. In Boone, the Washington Post reporter Matt Visor took a photograph of Biden standing to the side of the event as he prepared to speak, his arms draped over a fence, his head bowed, his aviators on. It was a look of quiet confidence, a reminder of the Biden of Wednesday. “America is an idea, an idea—it’s bigger than any ocean,” Biden said during his remarks. “The only thing that can take America down is America.” At that moment, a red S.U.V. drove past the event site. “Biden sucks!” the driver yelled out his window.

The last public event of Biden’s Iowa trip was on Saturday afternoon, in Central City, about a half hour north of Cedar Rapids, where he spoke at a fund-raiser for local Democrats. His campaign has been careful with how much time Biden gives to reporters and the unfiltered public, but in Central City Biden stuck around, lingering outside the venue as people came up to him with questions and requests for selfies. A mother and daughter told him about a struggle that the daughter, who might have been in high school or college, was facing. In response, Biden said, “Everybody has something to deal with.” He spoke of a stutter that he lived with in his youth. “It’s the only sort of generic impediment that people still laugh at—when someone does that. But it is debilitating. It makes you feel like you can’t be smart. Like you must be some kind of idiot,” he said. He was standing with his hands on his hips, holding eye contact with the mother and daughter, confiding in them, speaking of how he’d overcome certain challenges, but also of how he still lived with them. “It’s hard to ask a girl to go to p-p-prom,” he said, stuttering for effect. He spoke about his mother. “Even though she was no speech therapist, she’d say, ‘Joey, look at me. Read your studies. You’re so smart,’ ” he said. “But it’s all about confidence. Giving people confidence. Because there’s—everybody has something to deal with. Everybody.”

Your Period-Tracking App: F.A.Q.

August 13, 2019 | News | No Comments

Welcome to Bleedr! We’re an innovative app that helps ease the burden of your period with cutting-edge technology and custom features you won’t find anywhere else. Below are the answers to some questions we get from a lot of new users and their lawyers. Enjoy!

Sometimes the app says it’s “synching,” and I feel funny. What is it synching to?

Bleedr is the only period-tracking app that automatically synchs to your reproductive organs. But don’t worry, synching only becomes progressively more painful over time, just like being a woman.

When I opened the app, I checked a box to “accept cookies.” What does this mean, exactly?

An actual box of cookies will literally be delivered to your front door in the next hour. They will be packaged in sleeves, which are best consumed in pairs.

Registering my account required me to provide contact information for my spouse. Why?

Here at Bleedr, we go the extra mile to give your loved ones a little digital heads-up when shit’s about to go down. A complimentary text prompts spouses to respond “EJECT,” at which point Bleedr will automatically book a week of lodging for your partner at least five miles from your home.

Bleedr also asked for access to my full contact list. Why?

During the first few days of your period, Bleedr will send a handful of weird and vague preloaded texts to some of your contacts. Lucky recipients might include your parents, siblings, best friend, or work colleagues. We’ll save you hours of miscommunication that you can instead spend curled into a ball!

Is there a reason Bleedr asks for PDFs of the menus at my local restaurants?

During the peak days of your period, Bleedr will have large orders of heavy food delivered to you at random times, day and night. This food will provide you with the overfull feeling you crave, without you having to wait for dining companions to make up their minds while you actually start crying right now. The food orders will seem excessively large, but it’s important to eat the meal by yourself while watching a show about murder.

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Why does Bleedr require access to my Facebook account?

Aside from Mark Zuckerberg legally forcing our hand on this one, the benefit of giving Bleedr access to your Facebook account is that, at 2 A.M., we can like photos that your ex posted more than ten years ago while you have menstrual nightmares about the house you grew up in burning down.

Why was there a field requiring my measurements?

Here at Bleedr, we strive to experience P.M.S. for you. Part of that means ordering clothes that are outside your price range from outlets that do not make clothes for your body type, while temporarily extending the false hope that these clothes will magically look good on you and that you’ll suddenly be transformed into someone who participates in “festival season” (whatever that is).

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But I’m allergic to cats.

There are dogs, too. They’re all a hundred-per-cent homeless, and sketchy around the kids your body is punishing you for not having.

I can’t find an option to disable the feature that recites Sylvia Plath in a foreboding voice as I’m trying to fall asleep. Is there a way to make this stop?

Although there’s no way to turn off the recitation completely, there is an option to change the content to Virginia Woolf or Cormac McCarthy, which are read in different, equally foreboding voices.

Inside a romantic Yarra Valley wedding

August 13, 2019 | News | No Comments

Wedding photographer: Jeremy Blode

Caylin Gelbart and Gideon Gelbart’s first encounter was totally by chance. Caylin, a nurse, was working at a local practice offering free health checks. Next door, the local massage parlour just happened to be offering free massages too. “Gideon came for a massage and instead got a health check from me!” Caylin laughs of her future husband’s fateful error, which meant the two met by accident. “We had an instant connection and went on our first date a few days later,” Caylin told .

Since Caylin loves all-things Disney, Gideon kept this in mind when he proposed, getting down on one knee on a visit to Disneyland in Tokyo, right in front of Castle. “He was so nervous, I thought he was ill. He had to hide the ring in his beanie and he was so nervous I would see it. It was so special, we spent the rest of the day at the happiest place on earth, and it was truly magical,” Caylin said in awe.

The pair decided on a romantic and antique theme for the overall wedding. Being set in the vineyards of the Yarra Valley, a beautiful backdrop of the trees and flowers helped achieve this expression. “We used lots of eucalyptus, pink amaranthus, and dark red and dusty pink roses, and proteas because I am from South Africa,” Caylin added. The ceremony, reception and after party all took place at the venue Stones of the Yarra Valley. “It really felt like we were overseas in Europe,” Caylin adds.

“I felt like my dress was meant to be, the lace had a perfect structure and the necktie gave it something extra,” Caylin says. Accessorising with simple jewellery to not take away from the detail of the dress, Caylin wore an antique dainty pair of rose gold earrings, chosen by herself and her mother. The bride originally planned to wear her hair in a braided updo, however changed suddenly on the wedding day to something more simple to complement the rest of the look. To finish it off, the bride paired it all with a gorgeous pair of Valentino Tango pumps. “As soon as we got engaged, I saw ivory Valentino Tango pumps and knew I wanted to wear those for my wedding day. When I knew my dress was going to be Valentino, it all fit together perfectly,” Caylin mentions.

The day of the wedding consisted of an early morning start as Caylin spent it with her mother and sister in-law, relaxing and preparing for the day ahead. Once Caylin was ready her father and brother joined them too. “I sent my brother to give Gid a special gift I had prepared for him and my brother returned with something for me. I organised matching denim jackets with Mr. and Mrs. Gelbart embroidered on them. I also sourced vintage patches that meant something to Gid and I. Gid gave me a gorgeous gold ‘Mrs’ Jennifer Myer necklace,”Caylin said.

“I think standing together at our ceremony holding hands was a defining moment. We knew we were getting married and it was all so overwhelming but having Gid’s hand centered me,” Caylin told .

scroll through to go inside this wedding.

The groom and his parents.

The bride and her parents.

The welcome sign at the wedding.

“I didn’t want to use many vases, instead [I used] lots of foliage with flowers mixed through to give a rustic, natural feel.”

Flowers by Blooming Brides.

“I worked closely with our florist and the wedding coordinators at our venue, we really wanted to make sure everything flowed together and had a natural feel.”

Catering was by Stones of the Yarra Valley.

The bride and the groom sharing a special moment on their big day.

Just married!

The groom celebrating with friends and family.

The pair making lifelong memories.

The stunning venue.

The wedding theme consisted of a romantic and antique feel.

The couple tied the knot on, 2 April 2017.

The newlyweds.

The happy couple.

“Spend moments together throughout the day, this way it stops time for a few seconds to remind yourselves, ‘This is our wedding day.’”

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Simone Rocha ready-to-wear autumn/winter ‘19/‘20

At Prada’s autumn/winter ‘19/‘20 show, one pair of shoes stood out. Between the biker boots and trainers laced to the knee, there walked some sparkling red heels that looked like they’d tripped straight out of a grown-up (where the dresses were dark and draped, rather than gingham with frills). It was an appropriate homage, given that this year marks the 80th anniversary of the film’s release. And Miuccia wasn’t the only one thinking about vermilion footwear – from bright red velvet at Simone Rocha (above) and crimson, open-toed boots at Victoria Beckham to glitzy heels at Hellessy, red shoes made their way up and down catwalks around the world.

They’re an alluring choice. In the case of Dorothy, her ruby red slippers – imbued with an immense power that made them ferociously sought after by the Wicked Witch of the West – eventually take her home with a simple click of her heels. In L Frank Baum’s original book, the slippers were silver. We have the advent of Technicolor to thank for the ruby shoes adorning Judy Garland’s feet: shiny sequins with bugle beads on the toes providing a perfect contrast to that tirelessly followed Yellow Brick Road.

The slippers have a contentious history. With somewhere between five and 10 pairs made for Garland to wear, in a dramatic twist, one pair – insured for US$1m – were stolen from a display case when they were on loan to a Minnesota museum in 2005. It wasn’t until 2018, after a year-long sting operation, that they were recovered. 

Outside of Oz, red shoes have long been a potent form of footwear. Cladding the feet of ballerinas, nobles, popes and pop stars, they’ve ignited imaginations, stirred tempers, garnered looks both admiring and scandalised and, in the case of some cautionary fairy tales, led their heroines to rather gruesome ends.

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Victoria Beckham ready-to-wear autumn/winter ‘19/‘20

Hans Christian Andersen’s is one such example. Spinning the story of a young woman called Karen who covets – and subsequently acquires – a pair of shiny red leather shoes which she wears to church, her hunger for something as simple as eye-catching footwear is apparently so monstrous that she is condemned by an angel to dance herself to death. In desperation, she has her feet amputated. They continue to dance, disembodied in those flagrant shoes, off into the forest.

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It’s a horribly morbid little story, full of unsavoury messages about punishment of vanity. Powell and Pressburger’s 1948 film reimagines the story with headstrong ballet dancer Vicky Page (played by Moira Shearer) stranded between art and love – and also between two prissily controlling men – while dancing the lead role in an adaptation of the fairy tale. Among the numerous dazzling costumes, her ballet shoes are a perfect scarlet satin.

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Kate Bush’s 1993 album also pays homage to the dark frenzy at the heart of Andersen’s fairy tale, with its lyrics telling a similar story of a young woman who’ll be made to “dance ’till her legs fall off”. Her accompanying short film , featuring a startlingly monobrowed Miranda Richardson, places another pair of red ballet shoes at the centre of the narrative: ones that pay homage to both their filmic and folkloric predecessors.

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Red shoes seem to have a particularly complicated relationship with womanhood and beauty. As Summer Brennan, author of – an examination of footwear, femininity and transformation – says, “Red has all sorts of taboo associations with women that we may not always be aware of. In some cultures red is understandably associated with fire, and so with the devil and sin, or with sinfulness. Think of that scarlet A in Or of Scarlett O’Hara being forced by her husband to wear a red dress to a party in after she’s caught flirting with another man. It’s a colour that says ‘stop’, but it can also stop you in your tracks in a good way. It’s the colour of blood and is therefore associated with violence, but also with sexuality, menstruation, fertility and birth. And in other cultures, such as in India and China, red is considered a bridal colour and a colour of good luck.”

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Red shoes also function as complicated status symbols. Whether it’s France’s 17th-century King Louis XIV posing with his red-heeled shoes – and decreeing that only nobility could do similar – or the flash of a modern-day Louboutin sole signifying the wearer’s wealth (and ability to stride in vertiginous heels), red shoes remain a commanding choice. Across many cultures and eras, Brennan points out, red has often been connected with royalty and authority. “I think if red shoes tell us anything about power, it’s about where power comes from and what we think it entails,” she adds. “It has to do with destruction, and creation, and who is the centre of attention, and the freedom to express and pursue desire. And, of course, it’s about resources, since throughout much of history, the people most likely to wear red shoes were the ones who were rich.”

Christian Dior ready-to-wear autumn/winter ‘19/‘20

Their many histories and meanings are what make red shoes so mesmerising. It’s a colour that suggests lust, luck, passion and magic. It’s a warning: here lies danger. It’s playful: a shot of something bright on a grey day. It’s a smear of lipstick, hellfire and damnation, dusty stage curtains, lacy underwear, cartoon hearts, the tantalising apple. It’s a child splashing through puddles in her cherry bright wellies and a femme fatale in scarlet.

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Red shoes can be provocative, or powerful, or just very pretty: the ideal footwear to draw attention, as well as embody the enchantment of both myth and movies – though hopefully for any potential wearers, without the prospect of everlasting dancing to contend with.

In 1947, Christian Dior overhauled the interiors of his home and headquarters – as well as his atelier at 30 Avenue Montaigne in Paris, where he hosted fashion parades to show his iconic New Look garments. White, pearl-grey and light-drenched, his new décor heralded a return to chic after the austerity forced by the Second World War. “[His interiors] tapped into the richness and civility of the French past to create a modern, relevant response to the postwar world,” says design historian Maureen Footer.

A table setting with Dior Maison’s new collection, Cannage.

Christian Dior passed away in 1957, but his passion for interiors is kept alive by the exclusive home décor offered by his brand since 2016. The latest collection, called Cannage (French for ‘canework’), pays homage to the fashion shows he hosted at his Paris atelier nearly 70 years ago.

Plates have a canework pattern unique to Provence; cutlery handles are made from olive wood.

At these fashion shows, Dior would seat his guests on Napoléon III-style chairs that featured intricate canework. This detail was the inspiration for the current homewares collection, which has placemats, plates and mugs with classic cane patterns distinct to Provence.

Glassware in the collection is mouth-blown in Italy.

Designed by Dior Maison’s artistic director, Cordelia de Castellane, the homewares also feature sprigs of lily of the valley – Dior’s lucky flower. Some of the items are printed with green intended to reflect Dior’s love for his garden and country home, while others are a beige colour inspired by the Haussmannian buildings of Paris (Haussmann oversaw a vast public works project under Emperor Napoléon III to beautify the city).

Borders on porcelain plates are in a palette of burnished gold and beige.

Christian Dior wrote in his memoirs, “I will always prefer [an interior] that’s more sensitive and spirited, which has gradually developed over time according to the existence and whims of its inhabitant.” The designer understood the importance of interior design that echoes an individual’s personality.

The Cannage collection on display at Dior Maison’s boutique at 28 Avenue Montaigne, Paris.

As one of Dior’s most famous quotes attests, “Living in a house that doesn’t reflect who you are is akin to wearing someone else’s clothes.” We’ll drink a toast to that in one of Dior Maison’s stunning champagne flutes.

Exteriors of flagship Dior boutiques on Avenue Montaigne, Paris.

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13th Aug 2019

Update August 13, 2019:  Apple has released a first look at their upcoming early-morning TV drama, The Morning Show, starring Jennifer Aniston, Reese Witherspoon and Steve Carell. 

In an interesting twist, in the clip we don’t glimpse any of the stars, we just hear snippets of their voices while the camera pans around the show’s set.

While the teaser didn’t provide an air date for the show, The Hollywood Reporter noted that when Apple won a “bidding war” for the show, the company placed a straight-to-series order for two-seasons of 20 episodes, so we do know that we’ll have atleast two seasons of the show to look forward to when it does premiere.

Watch the trailer below.

October 24, 2018: Apple has officially injected themselves into the TV game, having announced they will now be producing a series of their own. And while it comes as no shock their announcement wouldn’t come without a dynamic duo to feature, Jennifer Aniston and Reese Witherspoon have been brought on board for their imminent debut. 

News that Aniston and Witherspoon – who previously worked alongside one another 17 years ago when they played the role of sisters in the hit TV series, Friends – were working together on a secret filming project came to light back in July. Meanwhile, rumours emerged that Apple was gearing up behind-the-scenes to take on the likes of Netflix and Amazon by producing their own scripting series.

Turns out, piecing two and two together made for the dream partnership we can’t wait to see transpire.

While specifics pertaining to the pending show are limited, the show is said to be in part inspired by media reporter Brian Stelter’s book Top of the Morning: Inside the Cutthroat World of Morning TV, and will star Steve Carell as the male lead. 

The theories thus far? It’s been suggested that Witherspoon would make for a good cutthroat morning TV anchor with Aniston playing as her co-host or contender with another network. As it would be, Aniston and Witherspoon are executive producing the show through their individual companies, co-owning the entire series with Michael Ellenberg’s Media Res company. Women in power? We approve.

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While we aren’t entirely sure of what’s to come just yet, we do know that Apple has big plans for the show, having announced they’ve ordered two 10-episode seasons with filming set to begin as soon as next week. 

Watch this space.

The Unlimited Greatness of Simone Biles

August 13, 2019 | News | No Comments

The goat was both a joke and a statement of fact. Last week, at podium training for the U.S. Gymnastics Championships, when the athletes have a chance to try out the equipment inside the arena before the competition begins, Simone Biles wore an iridescent gray sleeveless leotard with her name written in studded crystals on the back, and, below, also in crystals, the cartoonish head of a goat. On Twitter, Biles posted a picture of herself with the back of the leotard on display, one muscular leg extended, hair in a knot, and a smile on her face, in profile. In the photo, the goat appears to be giving the rest of us side-eye; the caption reads “podium training :).” In July, Biles competed at a qualifying meet in a leotard that had her name on the back, and some gymnastics fans took offense—it is unusual, though not unprecedented, for gymnasts to wear leotards emblazoned with their names. (The men often have them in N.C.A.A. gymnastics, for example.) There was a backstory about Biles having her name on the leotard, though there didn’t need to be: she is using her name to make history. The goat, she said, was a lighthearted way to “jab back” at the “haters.” But, really, no one can dispute it, at this point: Biles is the greatest of all time.

On Friday, the first night of the women’s competition, Biles, on the balance beam, stood for a long time, then did two back handsprings, soared high into the air, and, seeming to rise even as she peaked, began to twist and flip. She completed a double-double with control and ease, and just a slight hop on the landing. If—when—she does the dismount in international competition, the move will be named the Biles. Her second pass on floor is already known as the Biles, because she was the first to do that one, too; there is also a Biles on vault. On Sunday, during the all-around, Biles, her hair trailing behind her like an exclamation point, became the first woman to perform a triple-double—two flips and three twists—in competition during a floor routine. Only a few men can do it, and the way Biles does it is better than the way most of them do. The triple-double is so difficult that U.S.A. Gymnastics has argued that a new tier needs to be added to the code of points, gymnastics’ rule book, to account for it. When Biles performs it in international competition, that will be named after her, too.

There are certain irresolvable tensions within the ideals of sportsmanship: winning is the ultimate goal, but it isn’t everything; it’s all fun and games, but you better take your job seriously; be proud, but don’t show it. These unwritten rules have always been less kind to women than to men, who are typically given some leeway when it comes to embracing their greatness and making their names. Traditionally, of course, women have given up their names altogether, in marriage, and feats of physical prowess have not often been encouraged. “There is some sort of double standard for females in sports,” the soccer player Alex Morgan said last month, after the ecstatic celebrations of the U.S. National Team were criticized, during the Women’s World Cup. Women, Morgan said, are encouraged “to feel like we have to be humble in our successes; we have to celebrate, but not too much; we have to do something, but in a limited fashion.”

Biles does not do anything in a limited fashion. (Watch that triple-double again.) That may, in the end, be her most enduring legacy. She is arguably the most dominant athlete in the world right now. At the national championships, she had a bad first day—a mistake on floor left her furious, and she muttered that her bars routine was “a piece of shit”—and still won the competition by five points. Serena Williams does not win every tournament; Michael Phelps sometimes lost a race. Biles has not lost an all-around title in six years. In that time, she has won twenty-five medals at the Olympics and at world championships. She has been competing against only herself for a long time.

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One of the many remarkable things about Biles is that she makes empowerment and self-confidence seem uncomplicated. “I feel like every day in training I amaze myself even more, so we’ll have to see what’s to come,” she said last month, in an interview during the qualifying meet, after performing the double-double dismount from beam and the triple-double on floor, during podium training. There was no palpable egotism in the comment; it was, like the goat, a statement of fact. In a way, Biles offers a new example of an old ideal. The pride that comes with challenging yourself isn’t something to hide. It’s the point.