Month: November 2019

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PLAINS, Ga. — 

Former President Carter taught a Bible lesson on life after death Sunday less than two weeks after breaking his pelvis in a fall.

Using a walker, the 95-year-old Democrat slowly entered the crowded sanctuary at Maranatha Baptist Church in the southwest Georgia town of Plains.

“Morning, everybody,” he said cheerfully.

With help, Carter sat on a motorized lift chair at the front of the room to teach a 45-minute lesson based on the Old Testament book of Job.

Referring to a cancer diagnosis that resulted in the removal of part of his liver in 2015, Carter said he is “at ease” with the idea of dying and believes in life after death.

More than 400 people were on hand in the main hall and in smaller overflow rooms where the lesson was shown on television.

Carter was briefly hospitalized and has since been recovering at home since fracturing his pelvis Oct. 21. He had another fall shortly before that and needed stitches above his left eye.

Carter has lived longer than any other U.S. ex-president and has been teaching Bible lessons since he was in his teens. He missed one Sunday school class after the pelvis fracture.

The Rev. Tony Lowden said Secret Service agents, relatives and fellow church members all discouraged Carter from teaching because of the injury, but he insisted.

“He is pouring out that you might see Christ while he is suffering,” Lowden told the crowd.

Carter remained for the worship service after teaching, sitting in a pew beside his wife, Rosalynn, and singing hymns with the congregation.

Referring to the former president and Jesus Christ by their initials, Lowden gave thanks for Carter in prayer.

“The greatest thing I’ve learned as a pastor here is watching J.C. follow J.C.,” Lowden said.


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Over the weekend, a star-studded list of over 800 guests from the art, film, fashion, and entertainment industries descended upon the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA), located on Wilshire Boulevard, for the ninth annual Art+Film Gala, presented by Gucci. 

Dressed in their red carpet best, attendees gathered together to honour artist Betye Saar and filmmaker Alfonso Cuarón during the course of the fashionable evening co-chaired by LACMA trustee Eva Chow and actor Leonardo DiCaprio, which raised over $4.6 million for the institution’s film initiatives, as well as its future exhibitions, acquisitions, and programming.

After the likes of Salma Hayek, Brie Larson, Naomi Campbell and Sienna Miller walked the red carpet, guests were invited to make their way through the museum’s Smidt Welcome Plaza to enjoy a cocktail reception in the museum’s Zev Yaroslavsky Plaza. Later, a special dinner prepared by Joachim Splichal of Patina Restaurant Group was served, while Rainey Qualley, together with Anderson .Paak and The Free Nationals performed for all those in attendence. 

“I’m so happy that we have outdone ourselves again with the most successful Art+Film Gala yet. It was such a joy to celebrate Betye Saar and Alfonso Cuarón’s incredible creativity and passion, while supporting LACMA’s art and film initiatives,” said Chow in a statement. 

Given that the event was presented by Gucci, it should come as no surprise that the majority of the guest list stepped out wearing the Italian fashion house’s celebrated designs. Billie Eilish sported an oversized silk suit complete with embellishments and a bold pair of blue frames, Kiki Layne wore an awe-inspiring sequined number in an emerald hue, and Laura Dern finished her black gown off with a cape that screamed power. Scroll on see what the remainder of the evening’s guests wore.

Above: Billie Eilish attends the 2019 LACMA 2019 Art + Film Gala wearing Gucci.

Kiki Layne attends the 2019 LACMA 2019 Art + Film Gala wearing Gucci.

Brie Larson attends the 2019 LACMA 2019 Art + Film Gala wearing Gucci.

Yara Shahidi attends the 2019 LACMA 2019 Art + Film Gala wearing Gucci.

Salma Hayek Pinault attends the 2019 LACMA 2019 Art + Film Gala wearing Gucci.

Camila Morrone attends the 2019 LACMA 2019 Art + Film Gala.

Sienna Miller attends the 2019 LACMA 2019 Art + Film Gala wearing Gucci.

Amandla Stenberg attends the 2019 LACMA 2019 Art + Film Gala wearing Gucci.

Regina King attends the 2019 LACMA 2019 Art + Film Gala wearing Gucci.

Naomi Campbell attends the 2019 LACMA 2019 Art + Film Gala.

Laura Dern attends the 2019 LACMA 2019 Art + Film Gala wearing Gucci.

Tyler, the Creator attends the 2019 LACMA 2019 Art + Film Gala wearing Gucci.

Greta Gerwig attends the 2019 LACMA 2019 Art + Film Gala wearing Gucci.

Jared Leto attends the 2019 LACMA 2019 Art + Film Gala wearing Gucci.

Suki Waterhouse attends the 2019 LACMA 2019 Art + Film Gala wearing Gucci.

Alessandro Michele attends the 2019 LACMA 2019 Art + Film Gala wearing Gucci.

John Legend attends the 2019 LACMA 2019 Art + Film Gala wearing Gucci.

Zoe Saldana attends the 2019 LACMA 2019 Art + Film Gala wearing Gucci.

Nicky Hilton Rothschild attends the 2019 LACMA 2019 Art + Film Gala.

Cynthia Erivo attends the 2019 LACMA 2019 Art + Film Gala wearing Gucci.

Betye Saar attends the 2019 LACMA 2019 Art + Film Gala wearing Gucci.

Lucky Blue Smith attends the 2019 LACMA 2019 Art + Film Gala.

Asia Chow attends the 2019 LACMA 2019 Art + Film Gala wearing Gucci.

Susie Cave, Nick Cave and Earl Cave attend the 2019 LACMA 2019 Art + Film Gala wearing Gucci.

Jeremy Pope attends the 2019 LACMA 2019 Art + Film Gala wearing Gucci.

Alexandra Grant and Keanu Reeves attend the 2019 LACMA 2019 Art + Film Gala.

Donald Glover attends the 2019 LACMA 2019 Art + Film Gala wearing Gucci.

Jon Hamm attends the 2019 LACMA 2019 Art + Film Gala.

Ava DuVernay attends the 2019 LACMA 2019 Art + Film Gala wearing Gucci.

Gia Coppola attends the 2019 LACMA 2019 Art + Film Gala wearing Gucci.

Melina Matsoukas attends the 2019 LACMA 2019 Art + Film Gala.

Maria Karan attends the 2019 LACMA 2019 Art + Film Gala.

Anderson .Paak attends the 2019 LACMA 2019 Art + Film Gala wearing Gucci.

Ty Stiklorius attends the 2019 LACMA 2019 Art + Film Gala.

Sonia Ben Ammar attends the 2019 LACMA 2019 Art + Film Gala.

Will Ferrell and Viveca Paulin attend the 2019 LACMA 2019 Art + Film Gala.

Carly Steel attend the 2019 LACMA 2019 Art + Film Gala.

Rainey Qualley attends the 2019 LACMA 2019 Art + Film Gala wearing Gucci.

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Acne Studios ready-to-wear autumn/winter ’19/’20. 

Who wears the pants? That was the perennial and political question thrown up at the 51st Wimbledon Championships in 1931, when Elsa Schiaparelli dressed tennis champion Lilí Álvarez in a pair of culottes. The bold choice ignited the press, which condemned Álvarez and set the tone for the divisive reception of the pants.

Dating back to the 1500s, when they were the exclusive domain of French aristocratic men, it wasn’t until the Victorian era that the ‘divided skirt’ became available to everyone. To resolve the quandary of riding bicycles and horses, women too adopted the silhouette, thereby associating culottes with liberty, practicality and style.

“With origins rooted in menswear, [culottes] are an empowering piece, focussing on what they feel like to wear, rather than how others will respond to them,” says Sohyun Joo, US head buyer of curated e-store W Concept, where customers have been reintroduced to the style in linen, leather and denim varieties. “[Though culottes exude] a mood that maintains professionalism, these pants are much more versatile and provide many more styling options than the tailored suit-pants,” Joo adds.

Christian Dior ready-to-wear autumn/winter ’19/’20. 

Margaret Howell, Acne Studios and Michael Kors reified this versatility in their respective collections. The pants’ mutability was shown off – each brand interpreted the silhouette with cuffs, pleats and paper-bag waists. As Joo says: “With the widepants trend dominating throughout the past several seasons, culottes have entered more aggressively than ever as its seasonal sister.”

For proof, turn to Paris, where culottes were solidified into the bedrock of Hedi Slimane’s new guard at Celine. Versions delivered down the runway in pleated houndstooth, chevron wool, autumnal tartans and denim emphasised utility. At Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri extended their application, pairing culottes in oversized plaid patterns with fitted blazers to defamiliarise traditional feminine shapes.

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Off-white ready-to-wear autumn/winter ’19/’20. 

Styling cues abounded. Princess Diana may well have played on the subconscious of Alessandro Michele at Gucci for autumn/winter ’19/’20, where the royal’s ensemble from her 1991 Brazil tour was immortalised once more. Culottes were paired with a revised version of the princess’s double-breasted vest in long sleeves, which Michele accessorised with a tie for good measure. Elsewhere, amid the fallen leaves at Khaite’s forest, a leather pair, teamed with just-below-the-knee boots, flashed a surprising hint of flesh. Meanwhile at Off-White, silk culottes fell down the legs like liquid, conservatively layered over trousers and pooling at diamanteencrusted heels.

To maximise the potential, Joo says tailoring is key. “The most important feature for culottes is the length: the most flattering [should be] hitting right at the slimmest point of your leg, falling a couple of inches above the ankle,” she adds. And, for seamless transitioning between work and weekend wear, replace a tucked-in blouse with a cropped top or swap out flat shoes for a pair of heels. Easy.

This article originally appeared in Vogue Australia’s September 2019 issue.

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4th Nov 2019

Updated November 4, 2019:  Shonda Rhimes’s Netflix series about Anna Delvey is coming together, with Variety reporting a number of important roles have been cast, along with details such as the title and episode number.

Per the publication, Emmy award-winning Ozark actress, Julia Garner, has been cast in the lead role of Anna Delvey in the series, which now has the title of Inventing Anna. Veep’s Anna Chlumsky has also been cast in the series in the role of a journalist who, per Variety, “investigates the case”, and given the series is reportedly inspired by the piece written by journalist Jessica Pressler for The Cut, it wouldn’t be at all a surprise if the character draws parallels to Pressler and her reporting of the case.

Lavern Cox, Scandal’s Katie Lowes and The Bold Type’s Alexis Floyd have also reportedly joined the cast of the 10-episode series.

No air date has been announced by Netflix as yet for Inventing Anna, but check back here for updates.

June 12, 2018: For anyone who might have read the strange and wonderful tale of ultimate scammer, Anna Delvey, over the past few weeks, news that the story is set to become a Netflix show will come as no surprise. 

One of the most interesting pieces of journalism on the internet at the moment (it has the entire Vogue office enraptured), the piece, which was published on The Cut and written by Jessica Pressler, tracks the story of fake German heiress and socialite Anna Delvey and her rise and fall from the Manhattan social scene. Going into detail about the meticulous scams Delvey thought out to fund her lavish lifestyle, and her eventual downfall, the piece went viral. 

Now, Grey’s Anatomy showrunner Shonda Rhimes has been tapped to pick up the rights for a Netflix series. According to Variety, Rhimes will be writing the script after signing on for a multi-year deal with the streaming service following her departure from ABC Studios. 

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According to the publication, Delvey has already been “making calls” to talent agencies and producers as to who would play her. But with reported interest from the likes of Margot Robbie and Jennifer Lawrence, she won’t have to go far to find an Oscar-worthy performance. 

There’s no information about release dates or cast as yet, but we’re guessing as Delvey’s trial continues we’ll be graced with plenty more updates and information—so stay tuned. 

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4th Nov 2019

Some years ago, Australian couturier Steven Khalil leveraged a gap in the market when he launched a jewellery line, making his celebrated label that much more accessible to brides everywhere. Fast forward two years, and the bridal and red carpet designer has unveiled In Bloom, his most recent collection of earrings, pendants and necklaces.

“A lot of [women] were coming in for their fittings and they were always asking about jewellery and asking my opinion on what they should wear with the gown,” Khalil told Vogue when quizzed on the motivation behind his decision to branch out from couture.

Floral-inspired and ultra-feminine, there is no denying Khalil’s accessories are designed to be worn on the most special of occasions. Boasting an assortment of stones in unique cuts, they are also intended to be keepsakes, yet still available for purchase at relatively affordable prices.

“It’s just a beautiful accompaniment for people that want to buy into the brand but don’t want to spend on a couture wedding gown,” he added.

Off the back of another successful year, Vogue questions the celebrated couturier who has dressed the likes of Kylie Jenner, Jennifer Lopez and Emily Ratajkowski, on where he draws inspiration, what is next for his label and how it felt to show during Paris’s haute couture fashion week earlier this year.

What has the response to your jewellery line been like?
“We have people who don’t purchase our gowns but they want to wear the jewellery on their wedding day. The fact that it’s now available in David Jones Australia-wide and Peters of Kensington makes it really accessible. And I think that’s what I wanted. I wanted to make the brand more accessible.”

Where do you draw inspiration?
“I love nature, and also architecture. So a lot of my inspiration does come from that as well. I love developing my own fabrics, so I’m very drawn to beading and fabric development. So that plays a big part in our gowns as well.”

How do you continue to reinvent yourself each season?
“I just always research trends and research things that I’m personally inspired by. We’re in an era now where so much is in style, there [are] so many trends. So I always just find the ones that work for me. I just reinvent the brand based on what inspires us, me and my fans.”

What was it like to show during Paris haute couture fashion week this year?
“It was a dream come true showing in Paris. It was a long standing dream so it was about a year in the making. We worked on a beautiful 27-piece collection. It was so beautifully received over there. Showing in Paris is like the world stage, isn’t it? It was overwhelmingly perfect.”

What kind of preparation went into the collection?
“In the past we’ve shown at Australian fashion week. We worked on the collection for about a year in advance. I was working very closely with my beaders and embroiderers and design team on every piece, so I worked very closely on the collection. Once the collection was ready we had it shipped to Paris. We did all of our fittings over there. All our final touches were done over in Paris and then the show was three days later. So the timing worked out well.”

What have been your most memorable career highlights?
“Dressing some amazing celebrities has been a highlight. Dressing Kylie Jenner, Jennifer Lopez, Priyanka Chopra, Emily Ratajkowski, I feel like I’ve lived the dream and done all the things that any designer would aspire to achieve. It’s been an incredible journey so far.”

What can we expect from you in the near future?
“We are launching a ready-to-wear [collection]. But I shouldn’t talk about that just yet. We’ll be launching a new bridal line very soon and the jewellery is going very well, it’s strong. So we’re going to be adding to that collection. So I just think we’re going to be a bigger, better version of what we are now.”

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Two years ago, Sports Illustrated, which had been a weekly magazine for decades, began publishing just thirty-nine issues a year. The magazine’s revenue from print ads had been plummeting since the recession; it had dropped more than forty per cent in just the previous two years, from 100.1 million dollars, in 2015, to 57.4 million dollars, in 2017. Digital-ad revenue didn’t make up the difference, and subscriptions were down. Orders to cut costs came again and again from the publisher, Time Inc. At the start of 2018, Sports Illustrated went biweekly—around the same time that Time Inc. was sold to the media conglomerate Meredith Corporation, which published life-style magazines such as Southern Living and Cooking Light. Less than a year and a half later, in May, Meredith sold the intellectual property of Sports Illustrated to a group called Authentic Brands. When the deal was first announced, it was reported that Meredith would continue to publish the magazine for two more years. But, a few weeks after that, Authentic Brands licensed the magazine’s publishing rights to a company called Maven. A month ago, Maven laid off around a third of Sports Illustrated’s staff.

It seems that not one of the buyers had purchased Sports Illustrated because it valued the publication’s work. What concerned the buyers was how much money they could wring from their purchase. Authentic Brands held the licensing and trademark rights to celebrities like Marilyn Monroe and Muhammad Ali, and had never actually published a magazine. The company’s C.E.O., Jamie Salter, wanted to stick the Sports Illustrated name on everything from “medical clinics and sports-skills training classes to a gambling business,” Variety reported. He also wanted to make “better use of the magazine’s vast photo library.” Maven, meanwhile, laid out a scheme to launch a network of “team communities,” or local fan sites, which would post as much search-optimized content as possible, produced by news aggregators and low-paid, or even free, labor. The pitch to prospective content producers included lip service to the magazine’s tradition of deep reporting and award-winning prose, but it was impossible to imagine how the company could maintain high standards given the limited editorial and financial investments that it planned to make. Maven reportedly wanted new contributors to post stories or videos multiple times a day—at a salary of about twenty-five thousand dollars a year, with no benefits, plus bonuses for hitting traffic goals.

In 2018, Sports Illustrated had nearly three million subscribers. That was down from the magazine’s peak, and subscription numbers can be propped up by various short-term promotions. Still, that’s a lot of people. It was enough people, in fact, for the magazine to produce operating profits—not high ones, and only under cost-saving pressure, but, at least according to one Meredith spokesperson, Sports Illustrated was in the black. It had a strong and respected Web presence, and it employed well-known and influential journalists. Even during the past few months, under uncertain and demoralizing conditions, the magazine’s remaining staff has produced some of the most noteworthy stories in sports—investigations into allegations of sexual harassment against the former N.F.L. wide receiver Antonio Brown, for instance, and an instantly viral piece by Stephanie Apstein about an outburst by a Houston Astros executive following the American League Championship Series, which led to the firing of that executive during the World Series. Sports Illustrated may not have been thriving, but it wasn’t dead.

So why does Maven seem determined to kill it? Even if it hits whatever benchmarks Maven has set for it, the new Sports Illustrated will be unrecognizable. The plan isn’t to reinvest in the kind of reporting and writing that the magazine is famous for—the kind that illuminates the inner workings of sports organizations, or explains developments in strategy and analysis, or explores the lives of athletes, or investigates and exposes abuses of power. The plan is to attract “an intense community of fans”—not of Sports Illustrated but of specific teams—“who come back to the site everyday,” Bill Sornsin, the C.O.O., said in a presentation. “Nobody is actually a fan of ESPN or Sports Illustrated,” he explained. “They’re a fan of the New York Giants, or the Iowa Hawkeyes, or what have you. They’re a fan of their team.”

Actually, many people were fans of Sports Illustrated. The publication helped shape the way people watch, talk about, and write about sports. The current economic environment is challenging for serious sports journalism, maybe even more than it is for other sorts of news. But economic factors—Google and Facebook siphoning off ad revenues, the proliferation of game highlights on Twitter and other free outlets—don’t fully explain what is happening with sportswriting right now. Some of the people who are ostensibly funding it seem to have little interest in what it is and what it’s for.

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I learned many of the details above from a piece titled “Inside TheMaven’s Plan to Turn Sports Illustrated Into a Rickety Content Mill,” which was published, in October, by Deadspin. I learned a lot of things from Deadspin over the years. It influenced and deepened my understanding of the conflicts between labor and management, the ways that organizations handle or mishandle cases of domestic violence, and many other things. The writing that it published was, by turns, stylish, crude, sarcastic, earnest, goofy, and snarky, even verging on mean. But that brashness was often part of the point—these writers weren’t cultivating access. They weren’t trying to be liked by the people they wrote about. That included me: after I wrote a piece for Grantland that accompanied a documentary produced by ESPN, about the first pitch that President George W. Bush threw at Yankee Stadium after 9/11, the site published a piece criticizing the network’s whole production and called my role in it “craven.” I had been put “in the unenviable position of writing a story about George W. Bush without straightforwardly acknowledging that the man belongs in a prison,” the writer of the post, Tom Ley, concluded. But, however harsh Deadspin’s writers were about their subjects, they respected their readers and they respected their mission, which was to write about sports—and not only sports. Because why, if you wrote about sports, would you pretend that sports weren’t part of the wider world?

The Deadspin piece that reported on Maven’s plans had three authors: Laura Wagner, David Roth, and Kelsey McKinney. All three of them quit this past week. So did the rest of the staff. Whatever happens next, it seems likely that Deadspin will not, in a meaningful way, continue to exist.

The story of Deadspin’s demise is much weirder than the decline of Sports Illustrated, a legacy-media publication. Years ago, one of its sister sites, Gawker, published a piece about the sexual orientation of a billionaire, and that billionaire didn’t like the story; he later decided to fund a lawsuit filed by the former wrestler Hulk Hogan, who believed that Gawker, in another piece, which included an explicit video, had invaded his privacy. The case went on for years, and Hogan ultimately won, and, as a result, Gawker Media, the parent company of Gawker, Deadspin, and a handful of other sites, filed for bankruptcy. Gawker Media was sold to Univision, which rebranded it as Gizmodo Media Group and then sold it to the private-equity firm Great Hill Partners, which then renamed it G/O Media. Deadspin’s editorial staff immediately clashed with its most recent management; in August, the site published a long investigation into G/O Media’s hiring practices, corporate culture, and failures to guarantee editorial independence. Shortly after, the editor in chief, Megan Greenwell, resigned over disagreements with ownership, which she also laid out in a long post.

The writing was on the wall then. On Monday, G/O Media sent a directive to Deadspin to keep its focus on sports, and not on politics, or pop culture, or how to make the best chili, or any of the other subjects that the site had made its own since its founding, in 2005. “Where such subjects touch on sports, they are fair game for Deadspin,” Paul Maidment, the editorial director of G/O Media, wrote. “Where they do not, they are not. We have plenty of other sites that write about politics, pop culture, the arts and the rest, and they are the appropriate places for such work.” Stick to sports, in other words.

“Stick to sports” has for years been a favorite phrase of the site, always used sardonically. The staff has been tireless in defending the right of athletes to speak up about issues they care about, and in pointing out the agendas behind those who wish they would stay silent. Or, as the longtime contributor Drew Magary put it in a post called “You’re Not Sticking to Sports When You Stick to Sports,” earlier this year, “Sports are a highly visible part of the world, and they are both underwritten and infiltrated by multiple political forces in that world. You think I wanna fucking talk about politics? I don’t. I swear. I just wanna smoke some dope and chill the fuck out and treat politics as something tedious and inconsequential. But that is not the country I live in.”

The memo from Maidment went out the same day that G/O Media was facing a minor insurrection from its Web sites, which jointly published a post criticizing new video ads on their home pages that had led to mass complaints by readers in their comment sections. G/O stepped in, removing the critical posts. The next day, Deadspin began posting stories that were flagrantly unconcerned with sports: one was about a pumpkin thief; another was about wedding attire. Barry Petchesky, a longtime staffer who was serving as the interim editor-in-chief after Greenwell’s resignation, was fired. After a frustrating staff-wide meeting with Maidment about the new stick-to-sports policy, other staffers started handing in their resignations, too. By the end of the week, the entire staff had quit. The first new post-exodus contributor, Alan Goldsher, wrote one story, was overwhelmed with vitriol on Twitter, and immediately quit.

G/O Media, facing incredible public backlash (Bernie Sanders and Cory Booker are among those who have voiced their support for the departing Deadspin staffers), has tried to justify its decision by saying that non-sports posts drew less traffic than sports posts. In doing so, they were echoing ESPN, which also has tried to restrict its reporting and commentary to sports-related analysis. ESPN has cited audience research that purports to show that a majority of its viewers favors such restrictions, which seems conveniently beneficial to the network’s powerful sports-league partners, most notably the N.F.L. Both ESPN and G/O Media have argued that the mandate to cover sports is, as G/O Media put it in a public statement, “incredibly broad.” But the limits of such a rule are as evident as they have ever been. When the N.B.A. became embroiled in a conflict with government interests in China, after the Houston Rockets’ general manager, Daryl Morey, posted a tweet in support of protesters in Hong Kong, ESPN’s news director sent a memo instructing on-air talent to avoid discussion of the political situation in China or Hong Kong—which seemed to violate the basic standards of journalism. How could one provide any understanding of why Morey’s tweets were so explosive without discussing politics? I learned about that ESPN memo from Deadspin, too.

Former Deadspin staffers have strongly disputed G/O Media’s contention that non-sports posts did not attract the highest traffic. In fact, they have claimed the opposite. (A story in the Los Angeles Times looked at the numbers and backed up the former staffers.) On another level, though, that argument doesn’t matter: it has long been a fundamental tenet of the site that in order to understand what happens in sports you have to look outside of them. You have to understand power, money, and the broader culture in which athletes—and the people in their orbit—operate. If you want to understand the flaws in the way the major sports leagues address domestic violence, for instance, you need to understand the problems with zero-tolerance policies. To understand anything in America right now, you have to talk about the context that has created Donald Trump, and the context that Trump, in turn, has helped to create. And another of Deadspin’s central themes has been that human beings should be allowed to talk about important things, and joke about ridiculous things, regardless of what their job is—not because they have a platform or a mandate but just because they’re human beings.

I don’t doubt that ESPN’s audience research suggested that many people prefer not to read about anything more controversial than going for a two-point conversion as they eat their Cheerios. That’s a human impulse, too. But the anxiety around preserving sports as a carefully insulated and entertaining distraction may be as damaging as treating them merely as a vehicle for short-term profits—and may not be entirely unrelated. Sports are played by real people, and organized by real people, and watched by real people, and they are influenced by vast sums of real money. There is something dehumanizing to pretend otherwise, and the best sportswriters have always realized that it takes nothing from the joy of watching people play a game to point that out.

Joseph O’Neill on the Burdens of Superpowers

November 4, 2019 | News | No Comments

In “The Flier,” your story in this week’s issue, the narrator, who’s been suffering from an undiagnosed physical ailment, suddenly discovers that he can fly. Unlike most fictional characters granted such powers, the narrator finds his new ability “loathsome and embarrassing.” Why isn’t he more excited?

He doesn’t like how flying makes his body feel. He can’t see the upside or romance of moving through air rather than over land. He is much more comfortable with the terrestrial and the down-to-earth. He has an ideology that involves a suspicion of stupidity, and he places a high value on humble, practical actions, and on invisible structures of good. I’m with him on that score.

Of course, his flying prowess comes with new responsibilities and risks. What are the general guidelines and considerations when deciding how to use this power?

In the matter of responsibility, he seems to embrace the “first, do no harm” ideal, although the Hippocratic Oath doesn’t occur to him. As far as personal risks go, these are, of course, serious. The first thing that occurred to me when I tried to put myself in his shoes (or, more likely, his socks, since he seems to be something of an indoorsman) was the hideous attention that would inevitably follow. You’d probably be the most famous person on the planet. You could wear a mask, I guess, like the kid who is Spider-Man. It’s hard to see it ending well. Ask Icarus. Ask the Ottoman aviator Ahmet Çelebi. Reportedly, he leaped from the Galata Tower, in Istanbul, and used a contraption of his own making to glide or fly across the Bosphorus. This would have been around four hundred years ago. The sultan, spooked, exiled him to Algeria.

You mentioned that part of the inspiration for this story was your distaste for superheroes. What is it that you find so unappealing about them?

I’m not against superheroes as children’s entertainment, although there, too, I have my misgivings. I’m somewhat irked about the titanic cultural proportions, in the world of grownups, of Iron Man and Batman and Captain America and the rest of those goofballs. The elevation of fantasy as a way of investigating the human experience has been taken to a depressing extreme. Then, as I began to write the story, I found myself interested in the profound human needs that must be reflected in this fascination with superpowers—in particular, the profound wish for another dimension of being, presumably beyond the scope of scientific knowledge. It took an act of will to not put the word “miracle” into this story.

I’m afraid I have to ask: If you were able to choose a superpower, which would you choose?

The power to vote fifty thousand times in Wisconsin in 2020. I’m aware that this isn’t satisfactory from the point of view of democracy, but, hey—it might save the world.

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What an Amazon Fulfillment Center Tour Reveals

November 4, 2019 | News | No Comments

SMF1, an Amazon fulfillment center on the edge of Sacramento, California, is a low, gray, utilitarian building. Amid the yellowing fields of the Central Valley, it resembles a cluster of Legos abandoned in an untended back yard. The facility is named for Sacramento’s SMF airport, which is just across the road; it employs around two thousand people, and its forbidding architecture inspires obedience. On a recent afternoon, seven women with tight faces and heavy eye makeup stood in its lobby, wearing the comfortable walking shoes that Amazon had requested. They tried to peer past six sets of full-height turnstiles, above which Amazon’s internal slogan—“Work hard. Have fun. Make history”—had been painted on the wall. Beyond the turnstiles were nine gray metal detectors, reserved for exiting employees, and a multicolored balloon arch. The climate was controlled. There was an oppressive mechanical hum. “This is already amazing,” a woman wearing pedal pushers said.

The ride-share driver who’d ferried me to SMF1 from the train station had been skeptical when I told him I was there to tour an Amazon fulfillment center. “What’s your objective?” he asked. “You looking for some twelve-year-old Asian kids who are sewing things with their teeth?” As we turned into the parking lot, past a sign that read “Hiring Event,” I saw myself through his eyes—a writer for an East Coast publication, wearing loafers and a weather-inappropriate cashmere sweater, on a field trip from San Francisco to observe the working class. I wasn’t delusional. I didn’t expect to witness labor abuses on a scheduled, public, corporate propaganda tour. (Amazon has been offering fulfillment-center tours since 2015, and the company has expanded them to twenty-two facilities across the country since January, as part of a larger public-relations response to criticism of its treatment of hourly workers.) But I did want a glimpse, however small, of an opaque, privately owned system that has become part of daily life for millions of people. I also wanted, despite the tour’s Potemkin-village potential, to see Amazon’s interpretation of its best self.

In the lobby, our guide, a young woman radiant with enthusiasm, distributed guest badges. (I took the regular tour available to the public and didn’t identify myself as a journalist.) Our group filed under the balloon arch. We passed a map of the world with a note beside it: “Where do you identify with? Place a star on the map to show us!” A sign declared the fulfillment center a “No Phone Zone.” A dry-erase board, labelled “Voice of the Company,” contained tidy corporate announcements and exhortations; on another, “Voice of the Associate,” someone had scrawled, “You guys are never open to negotiations.”

We entered a classroom, where headsets and receivers were distributed.

“Why do you do these tours?” one of the guests asked.

“To show what goes on behind closed doors,” our guide said. There wasn’t much to hide, she said, and flashed us a smile. “And to combat misinformation,” she added.

Our first stop was the robots. Single file, we marched up a stairwell, onto a vast and labyrinthine warehouse floor. (The fulfillment center has four levels; the top three overlook a shipping bay on the first.) Taped lines on the floor indicated where to walk, guiding us to the perimeter of a vast pen, within which the robots rolled like overfed Roombas. Our guide asked us not to touch the fence, and everyone gave it several feet of clearance. “Don’t worry,” she clarified. “It’s not electric or anything.” (An Amazon spokesperson later said that there would have been no reason to avoid the fence.) Meanwhile, in the pen, the robots changed direction with the sharp, angular precision of a Broadway ensemble. Each robot carried a tower of yellow, cubby-like bins, which Amazon calls “pods.” In the pods, I spotted a tub of Colonix powder, a large container of Ultimate Omega, a toner cartridge, Meow Mix, pineapple-print linens, a bag of plastic Easter eggs, Crest toothpaste, and several boxes stamped with the logo of InvoSpa, a maker of self-massage products. It was an Advent calendar of late-night, 1-Click decisions.

We watched as, prompted by listings on a screen, an order picker removed items from the pods, placing them into another set of bins, called totes. Every forty minutes, our guide explained, the screens prompted workers to take a “mind and body break”; the picker we were observing had selected a hamstring exercise.

We walked down to the packing area. It felt endless and oddly desolate, with many of its stations unmanned. A thin young man, dressed head to toe in black, lifted a single tub of Pure Protein 100% Whey Powder from a tote, put it into a box, taped it shut, and moved it to a conveyer belt. The tour clustered around him, as if at an aquarium, before moving to an elevated pathway above the shipping bay. One guest waved to a distant group of workers, like a boater signalling to strangers on shore, before we returned to our classroom. By way of concluding our tour, our guide said that if Amazon were exposing a secret it might be that the company is a little more efficient than it lets on.

Outside, the heat was thick and dense. A weather app confirmed animal intuition: it was ninety-six degrees. People stood around, looking a little dazed. “Every place, I was like, ‘Oh, I’d work here,’ ” one of the tight-faced women said. Her friend raised an eyebrow. People posed for photographs with SMF1 in the background and, in the unforgiving sun, trickled back to their cars.

There has never been a commercial experience quite like Amazon. The site, on which six-packs of bicycle shorts, pepper spray, Keurig pods, and prefab tiny homes coexist, doesn’t resemble a traditional marketplace so much as the Mall of America after a major earthquake. (As it happens, the Mall of America, in Minnesota, now houses a wall of Amazon Lockers—self-service pickup portals for items ordered on Amazon.) Amazon’s third-party seller program, which enables anyone to list, sell, and ship products using the company’s interface and infrastructure, further contributes to the sense that it is a lawless, consumerist Wild West. Knockoffs abound, as do deceptively or fraudulently labelled items: in his examination of Amazon for this magazine, published earlier this month, Charles Duhigg detailed the Sisyphean efforts undertaken by Birkenstock to remove its products from Amazon’s reseller platform for fear that its brand would be tainted by fakes. (Amazon frequently says that it prohibits counterfeits and invests “heavily” in detecting and removing them from its listings.) It appears that nonsensical, exorbitantly priced e-books in Amazon’s marketplace have been sold and purchased by money launderers (Amazon told the Guardian that it takes steps to stop fraud when the company discovers it); bot-generated listings tout shower curtains and phone cases that feature random stock photos. According to the firm TJI Research, Amazon itself offers at least seven hundred and eighty private-label or Amazon-exclusive brands, hawking everything from furniture to lingerie and baby wipes. Its fulfillment centers are nodes where unrelated objects, manufactured in places such as Dhaka, Sri City, and Shenzhen, come together—way stations, thoroughfares, culverts for a nebulous, undular mass of everything people could, and apparently do, want.

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My own apartment has taken on qualities of a fulfillment center—it’s another node where objects of unknown provenance aggregate. In the mid-two-thousands, I worked at an independent bookstore, and for nearly a decade I boycotted Amazon. The site tells me that I caved on January 4, 2016, when I bought a Brother HL-L2380DW Wireless Monochrome Laser Printer. Since then, my boyfriend has used the phrase “Amazon culture” to refer to the various objects that I have summoned, often late at night, to our front door: a variety box of 1,120 self-adhesive googly eyes; an AmazonBasics paper shredder; an ESARORA Ice Roller for Face & Eye, Puffiness, Migraine, Pain Relief and Minor Injury, Skin Care Products (Blue); an Anwenk Electric Sweater Shaver Lint Shaver Lint Remover for Sweater Knitwear Carpet Blankets; a Topo Comfort Mat by Ergodriven Not-Flat Standing Desk Anti-Fatigue Mat with Calculated Terrain [Must-Have for Any Standing Desk] (Obsidian Black).

As a consumption diary, my order history is not flattering. Many of my purchases happened through curated, affiliate-linked roundups on recommendation sites, such as Wirecutter and the Strategist—“I’ll Talk to Anyone Who Will Listen About These Comfortable Boots”; “The 13 Products I Use for My Chronic Raccoon Eyes”; “The Best Emergency Preparedness Supplies”—which offered me solutions to problems I didn’t know I had. Earlier this year, in an essay called “What Is Amazon?,” the tech C.E.O. Zack Kanter highlighted the company’s clever habit of encouraging partners or customers to do work that Amazon itself would prefer not to do, because of its “bureaucratic complexity.” Sites like the Strategist curate Amazon’s selection better than the company itself ever could; such search-engine-optimized aggregations of search-engine-optimized products serve as both a revenue channel for affiliate partners (influencers, bloggers, legacy magazines) and a service to Amazon. (The New Yorker derives some of its revenue from affiliate links to Amazon.) The arrangement makes for a fascinating business-school case study. My own narrative was simpler: I felt bad about myself, so I bought something.

I felt bad after visiting the fulfillment center, too. (“You sound like someone who has just seen an industrial chicken farm for the first time,” a friend said, when I recounted the trip.) I was mad about the perverse incentives of capitalism; disgusted by the extractive nature of the global supply chain; ashamed at myself for being so susceptible to marketing. I also felt awe at the scale and precision of Amazon’s logistics. From its strips of perfectly measured packing tape to the minute-long breaks it metes out to its workers, the company operates with unprecedented efficiency. It would be wonderful if Amazon didn’t fight worker efforts to unionize, or increased their hourly pay, or consumed less energy, or better moderated its marketplace. But that version of Amazon could only exist if the company revised its core values: speed, frugality, optimization, and an “obsession” with the customer. Reformers talk more and more about breaking up the big tech companies; some leftists muse about nationalization. Regulation may change Amazon. For now, it’s exactly what it wants to be.

In late September, a group emerged, Amazonians United, Sacramento, to protest the company’s internal policies. “We are an organization of Amazon workers in the Sacramento area that is working to protect our rights at work, improve our working conditions, and create a real voice for Amazon associates,” reads a post on the Amazonians United, Sacramento Facebook page. According to the Verge, the group coalesced after an employee at the DSM1 “delivery station” in West Sacramento took time off to mourn her mother-in-law and was promptly fired upon return, having overdrawn her leave balance by one hour, because her bereavement leave hadn’t started yet. (Amazon said it offers hourly workers three days of paid bereavement leave, but added that it does not comment on personnel matters.) Twenty-four hours after the group circulated and submitted a petition, the employee was rehired, with back pay. Recent reporting on Amazon’s fulfillment centers has yielded a spate of stories about overwork, physical exhaustion, subpar facilities, and “productivity” firings for employees unable to keep up with demanding quotas. In his article on Amazon, Duhigg quotes Safiyo Mohamed, who, while still in her twenties, tore an intervertebral disk in her back working as a sorter at a Minnesota fulfillment center. “Amazon doesn’t want humans, they want robots,” she told Duhigg.

The same critical pressures that led Amazon to offer its fulfillment-center tours have pushed the company into other public-relations efforts. In August, it received a wave of negative attention for the Twitter accounts it had created for its so-called “fulfillment center ambassadors”—accounts, with display names including the words “Amazon FC Ambassador” and the parcel emoji, which sometimes tweeted in response to criticism and against pro-union sentiment. (“Sweating while working is common at any job,” one ambassador tweeted. “So excited for Amazon family day at my site this weekend,” wrote another.) In response, a number of Twitter users—many of them journalists—jokingly changed their display names to include the words “FC Ambassador” and the parcel emoji, turning the corporate Twitter program into a meme. Their mockery spoke to the company’s reputation as a cold, functional, and impersonal juggernaut. Unlike many of the larger tech corporations, Amazon does not promote idealistic, utopian, or progressive narratives about community or connection; it strives, almost always, to present itself as a kind of infrastructure. Perhaps it was inevitable that its efforts to humanize itself would scan as stilted and generic—the AmazonBasics of public relations.

The unnerving truth is that facelessness and placenessness are part of the value Amazon offers. Amazon culture is anonymity culture: anonymous objects ordered through an anonymous interface from anonymous sellers, funnelled, sorted, shipped, and delivered by workers who are often unseen. Even the company’s brick-and-mortar Amazon Go markets, which sell prepared foods and snacks, are designed to minimize interpersonal interaction by eliminating things like visible food production and checkout registers. (In its advertising, Amazon describes these shops in terms of the software that runs them: “What if we could weave the most advanced machine learning, computer vision, and A.I. into the very fabric of a store?” a marketing video asks.) The Amazon shopping experience appeals, in part, because it strips away the emotional dimensions of consumerism, like shame, guilt, or impatience. And yet—while it can be a relief to use a digitally mediated portal to purchase items like Spanx, or postnatal perineal balm—this efficient blankness comes at some human cost. It’s in this sense that the fulfillment-center tours run counter to the company’s self-image. Amazon is actually a company full of people, with all their inefficiencies—their bodily needs, their grief, their camaraderie, boredom, humor, and despair. The anonymity to which Amazon shoppers are accustomed is palliative, illusory.

On a recent afternoon, working from home, I heard the doorbell ring. I raced down the stairs, opened the door, and peered outside. No one was there. A public bus exhaled at the end of the block; the street was quiet and still. I bent down and picked up the box. I had the distinct feeling that I could be anywhere.

Sunday Reading: American Playwrights

November 4, 2019 | News | No Comments

Great playwriting often helps inform our views on American character and identity. The work of accomplished writers such as August Wilson, Arthur Miller, Ntozake Shange, and others has sparked crucial national conversations around issues of race, sexuality, and class. This week, we’ve gathered a selection of pieces on the cultural impact of some notable American playwrights. In “Color Vision,” Hilton Als chronicles the career of the innovative Ntozake Shange, whose groundbreaking work “for colored girls who have considered suicide / when the rainbow is enuf” is currently in revival at the Public Theatre. In “All About the Hamiltons,” Rebecca Mead speaks with Lin-Manuel Miranda about “Hamilton,” his inventive hip-hop musical based on the Founding Fathers. John Lahr profiles Arthur Miller and explores how he came to write “Death of a Salesman”; Lahr also examines the eminent works and life of the playwright August Wilson, who has received two Pulitzer Prizes for drama. In “Passion Plays,” Larissa MacFarquhar visits Edward Albee as he oversees the latest revival of “Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf?” Finally, in “King’s Speech,” Michael Schulman talks to Katori Hall about the inspiration behind “The Mountaintop,” her play about Martin Luther King, Jr., in the final hours before his assassination. Taken together, these pieces offer a powerful reminder of the role that these dramatic conversations play in our lives.

—David Remnick


“Color Vision”

Ntozake Shange’s outspoken art.


“All About the Hamiltons”

A new musical brings the Founding Fathers back to life—with a lot of hip-hop.


“Arthur Miller and the Making of Willy Loman”

“Death of a Salesman” was the first play to dramatize the punishing—and particularly American—interplay of panic and achievement. How did Miller do it?


“King’s Speech”

Katori Hall spins theatre from a moment in history.


“Passion Plays"

The making of Edward Albee.


“Been Here and Gone”

How August Wilson brought a century of black American culture to the stage.