Jul 25/19

Shrilk: How This New Biodegradable Material Is Changing The Way We Engineer

About 300 million tons of plastic are produced each year, half of this used only once. 4.8-12.7 million metric tons of plastic end up in the oceans annually. Basically, if something is not done, we are going to have too much plastic garbage in our hands.

Plastic takes a long time to disintegrate. Researchers at Wyss Institute have, however, developed a fully biodegradable plastic called shrilk. Which can replace old plastic.

Only 3% of plastic produced annually is recycled, the remaining 97% ends up either in landfills or the ocean. Plastic in the ocean harms marine life, killing even whales and sharks. Conversely, the plastics left in landfills also end up harming the environment.

Plastic has no nutritional value to soil and takes long to decompose. Plastics can take about 500 to 1000 years to degrade.

Below is a brief on shrilk and its potential uses.

What Is Shrilk?

Shrilk is made from isolating chitosan. Shrimp shells forming a silk fibroin protein laminate resembles of the microarchitecture insect cuticle. Shrilk’s main advantage is that it does not harm the environment.

When placed in compost, it quickly biodegrades, forming a nitrogen-rich nutrient fertilizer. Shrilk also has some medical applications. They include wound healing, films, and scaffolds for surgical closure.

Despite being made from biodegradable materials, shrilk’s material hardness is comparable to that of an aluminum alloy. However, shrilk weighs about half of what an aluminum alloy weighs.

Shrilk’s hardness is better than Plastic Hardness thus widening the potential applications. The hardness composition makes it perfect for most manufacturing applications.

Benefits of Shrilk

There are a couple of advantages of shrilk.

• Biodegradability makes it environmentally friendly
• Adds nutritional value to soil
• Cheap to produce since it comes from shrimp shells
• Relatively strong
• Molded into different shapes
• No harm to the body, unlike plastic.
• Used to make packaging, trash bags, diaper, among other products that decompose quickly.

Shrilk: Leading Change

Most manufacturing companies use plastic, especially when they want to lower production costs. For example, cheaper computers, smartphones, and other electronic devices have plastic bodies.

Automotive

The automotive aspect is not as different. Although plastic may be used for other functions besides lowering production costs.

Plastics are widely used in a number of manufacturing processes. You can’t simply get rid of it without having a replacement that is similar in cost and looks. Despite its impact on the environment, the role and wide use of plastic can’t be overlooked.

Shrilk is cheap to make. This is considering its main ingredient comes from shrimp shells. The shells are readily available considering they are sort of a waste product.

If shrilk ends up being cheaper than plastic, manufacturers may end up saving costs, which will have a trickledown effect.

Plastic Industry

In the automotive industry, the interiors of most vehicles are comprised of plastic. Plastic can be used to save costs and reducing weight in cars. For example, most car cockpits feature plastics, principally the dashboards.

Buttons and switches are also made from plastic. Some of these buttons tend to break easily and having a material that is harder would be really useful in increasing the lifetime of the buttons.

The door panels in most vehicles also feature plastic. Shrilk provides a lighter and environmentally friendly material. It also lasts longer.

Plastic is also used when making the center consoles in vehicles. Using shrilk in place of plastic ensures durability and boosts the quality of the car.

Shrilk can also replace some of the plastics components in the internal systems of vehicles providing a tougher and lighter option. It can also play a big role in making performance and racing cars lighter while still maintaining the sturdy quality.

With developments still going on, shrilk could be hardened even more, thus opening other applications. For example, when cutting cost when making performance vehicles, shrilk can be used in places where carbon fiber would be used. Other applications of shrilk may include building sunroofs.

Pollution

Plastic pollution levels have increased over the years and expected to continue trending. More deaths associated with plastics are occurring both amongst human beings and other animals. Recycling plastics is clearly not working, and finding environmentally friendly alternatives might be the best way to go.

Most environmentally friendly options like shrilk are still under development though. It may take time before they are available for use, but at least there is hope.

Furthermore, some governments are offering incentives to companies that use environmentally friendly alternatives. The effects of plastics have become openly visible that the world has had to start thinking of a way forward. Some countries have already banned the use of plastic bags and single-use plastics.

Global treaties have slowly adopted banning forms of plastic worldwide. The UN, for example, has resolved to try and end the plastic pollution of the sea. Over 200 countries have promised to put measures in place to help in stopping plastic from reaching water bodies.

Shrilk

The future does not look bright for conventional plastic, especially with the amount of pollution attributed to it worldwide. When biodegradable alternatives fully developed to end products, plastics will quickly be adopted.

However, research on silk will contiune despite there being some visible samples of containers and cups made from it. It is unknown when shrilk will be available for large scale manufacturers. Considering the amount of plastic that ends up in the oceans, having a safer alternative will be applauded.

Contact us for more information regarding shrilk.

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Oct 02/20

How Rapid Prototyping Is Changing the Automotive Industry

In any production line manufacturing business improving efficiency is a top priority. Using 3D design data and printing radio prototyping creates scale models.

Improving technology and production efficiency can be accomplished using rapid prototyping. This method allows automobile manufacturers to efficiently craft high-performance models.

So, let’s look at how innovative automotive solutions impact the manufacturing industry.

Rapid Prototyping in the Auto Industry

The desire to produce safe intelligent cars led to scene mapping. Automobile manufacturers wanted to review accident scenes to analyze impact data. The collision’s effect on the vehicle led to an increased impact on safety standards.

Scene mapping paved the way for rapid prototyping, which has been in existence for more than a decade. This technology impacts and replaces traditional modeling in the final stage of production. It then transfers into the manufacturing process.

3D Modeling has its greatest impact on the early stages of the design process. New ideas and innovations are quickly put into production through rapid prototyping services.

This quickens the process of developing defect-free and high-quality products. Rapid prototyping machines include desktop modelers, conceptual modelers, and 3D printers.

Automobile manufacturers need precision-crafted car pieces to meet industry safety standards. Car parts produced using rapid prototyping machines meet exact specifications with 0% error.

Every auto manufacturer can have a fast and efficient assembly line when using rapid prototyping. Flexibility in design is easy by being able to quickly change from one style of a part to another.

This can be accomplished without interrupting production or losing quality or consistency. Therefore, keeping everything on track for meeting delivery dates

Machinery using rapid prototyping can handle several different tasks. They can even have their role in production changed.

Rapid prototyping services are cost-efficient for automobile manufacturers. Their use of recyclable materials makes them eco-friendly.

Methods of Creating Automotive Prototypes

• CNC Machining—an automatic milling device that fabricates parts quickly and accurately without human assistance
• 3D Printing—uses a large 3D printer for creating prototype and model for use in product development, design assessment, and verification
• CNC Automotive Prototype—milling out of an acrylic (PMMA) block a fully functional prototype for testing under user conditions
• Soft Tooling—ideal for low volume production of fewer than 50 pieces using a silicone rubber cast around a rapid prototype machining plastic pattern or 3D printing master pattern that creates a repeatable mold
• CNC Dashboard—large prototype model that is split and glued confirming how components fit together and confirm proper airflow from the dashboard

Rapid prototyping allows auto manufacturers to quickly evaluate new product behavior. Once testing is complete the prototype can transfer into production. Using a Tier One automotive supplier is crucial in making sure this process goes smoothly.

Bring Us to the Drawing Board

Mayco International brings your design ideas to life. Therefore, final production pieces are manufactured in the time and quantity needed. Above all, using rapid prototyping let’s us quickly provide you with a prototype for analysis and testing.

So, contact us with any questions you have on manufacturing and pricing.

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Mar 26/19

Here Is Everything You Need to Know About Blow Molding

Blow molding can be found around you and you don’t even know it. That soda that your drinking has a plastic bottle, which was blow-molded.

In the United States, The plastics industry is the 3rd largest manufacturing industry. Plastics make our lives easier and help us produce things more cost-effectively.

But what exactly is it? And how does it work? Read on to find out!

What is it?

This process can be used to manufacture plastic products. The process involves heating a plastic tube (known as a preform or parison) to its melting point and then putting that into the cavity of a mold.

They then use compressed air to inflate the molten plastic like a balloon so that it takes the shape of the mold but is hollow inside. The amount of plastic used and the air pressure determines how thick the final product is.

The History

Blow molding has its roots in glass blowing, where a craftsman would heat the glass to its melting point and then blow through a tube to inflate the glass. This process has been around since as far back as the 1800s. A patent from the time shows the process being used with celluloid polymer. These early methods were not suited for mass production.

In the 1930s, they developed commercial machines to manufacture blow-molded bottles and made mass production possible. The materials available were too brittle and took too long to produce to effectively utilize the process to make large quantities.

Blow molding exploded into industrial prevalence with the creation of low and high-density polyethylene. This revolutionized many industries including the soft drink bottling industry and the automotive industry.

What Can You Make?

You can make just about any hollow plastic container with blow molding, but the process isn’t limited solely to bottles. Here are some commonly blow-molded products:

• Construction Barrels and Barriers
• Stadium Seating
• Coolers
• Fan Housing
• Toys and Sporting Goods
• Watering Cans

Blow molding is also widely used in the automotive industry and makes the design and mass production of auto parts simple and cost-effective. Here are some commonly blow-molded automotive parts:

• Automotive Ductwork
• Liquid Reservoirs
• Mud Guards
• Consoles
• Seating
• Storage Systems
• Electrical Covers
• Fenders
• Paneling

To sum up, blow molding has a wide variety of uses and is a great way to produce a large number of parts inexpensively.

The Process

There are a few different types of blow molding. Their differences lie mostly in how they form the parison, the size of the parison, and how the parison moves between the molds. The main types of blow molding are:

• Extrusion Blow Molding (EBM)
• Injection Blow Systems (IBS)
• Injection Stretch Blow Molding (ISBM)

Modern blow molding is a largely automated process, allowing for the production of thousands of parts in a short time period. The process includes the following steps:

• Plastic pellets are fed into the machine via a hopper or screw depending on the machine.
• Plastic melts and then gets shaped into a parison, which looks like a tube with a hole at one end.
• Clamped in place inside the mold.
• Compressed air inflates the parison.
• The heated plastic balloons to fill the space of the mold.
• After the plastic cools, the machine opens the mold and removes the part, sending it on to any applicable finishing, if any.

Furthermore, with IBS and ISBM, a preform replaces the parison. Tubes with a single hole made ahead of time, know as a preform, are manufactured through injection molding. A single perform design might be used for several different designs of blow-molded products and is another way to streamline production in some cases.

Blow Molding Materials

Plastics that are suited for this process include:

• PVC
• PET
• Nylon
• ABS
• EVA
• TPE
• Low and High-Density Polyethylene
• Polypropylene
• Co-polyester
• COP and COC
• Polystyrene

The wide variety of materials available for use in blow molding means that you can use the process to develop parts to fit your exact needs.

Advantages

There are many advantages to the blow molding process over other forms of plastic product manufacturing. Blow molding is a cost-effective alternative to injection molding, with both production and machinery being cheaper typically.

Blow molding works well for products that are one single piece. It can produce objects that do not require assembly or the connecting of halves. Therefore, particularly effective for containers that require exterior threading.

Blow molding also reduces flash. Flash is the little burs or plastic bleed around seems of products. This excess plastic from the production process requires extra finishing work to sand off or remove it before a part can be shipped. Blow molding techniques create a little-to-no flash, resulting in quicker turn around times for blow-molded products.

Your Product’s About to Blow Up!

Choosing blow molding to bring your product to life is a great solution for mass-producing simple, effective designs without spending too much money. We have a talented team of trained professionals who can take your product from idea to reality. In short, we’ll work with you throughout the design and production processes to ensure that the end result is a product you can be proud of.

So, contact us today so we can assist you in getting your product out of your head and out into the world!

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Whether it’s chlorine, pH balancers, algaecides, or other essential pool chemicals, understanding their longevity is vital for ensuring optimal effectiveness. Over time, exposure to factors like temperature, moisture, and sunlight can impact the stability and potency of these chemicals, potentially compromising their ability to keep your pool water clean and safe.

In today’s article, we talk about chlorine shelf life and answer the age-old question of, “Do pool chemicals expire, or do they lose efficacy over time?”

Shelf Life of Pool Chemicals

Liquid Chlorine

Sodium Hypochlorite, or chlorine bleach, is a comparatively unstable form of chlorine, in that it can lose up to 50% potency within the first 6 months, and 90% within one year. If subjected to hot or cold temperatures or direct sunlight, degradation occurs more quickly. For a more stable product, see our Instant Liquid Chlorine in a bottle.

Tablet Chlorine

Trichlor tablets have the longest chlorine shelf life. We have lab tested our individually wrapped tablets for potency over time. At 36 months, In The Swim tablets still have 98% of their original available chlorine, when stored in constant 50-70° F temps with a tightly closed bucket lid. In the right conditions, trichlor tablets can remain viable for more than 5 years.

Granular Chlorine

Calcium Hypochlorite, aka pool shock or granular chlorine, also has a long shelf life, if kept in an air tight container, in a cool and dry (indoor) location. Pool shock in 1 lb bags absorb moisture from humid air, and bags can dissolve in 12-24 months. For longer term storage, re-pack into freezer bags or buy chlorine granules, sold in buckets. Properly stored, pool shock has a shelf life of more than 5 years.

Stabilizer

Cyanuric acid, or chlorine stabilizer, will maintain potency indefinitely, even if it absorbs moisture, as long as it is stored in a tightly closed container. Be sure to label cyanuric acid as Conditioner or Stabilizer, so the white powder won’t be confused with another chemical should the container label fade or become unreadable.

Algaecides

When properly stored (cool and dry indoor location), pool algaecides are quite stable and most will maintain potency for up to 5 years. Temperatures over 75° F and direct sunlight will reduce algaecide shelf life, especially lower concentration algaecides (10% and 30% formulations). However, freezing temperatures can ruin pool algaecide.

Clarifiers

Similar to algaecides, pool clarifiers have a shelf life of up to 5 years, stored tightly closed in consistently cool temperatures, in a dark cabinet or container. Outdoor storage in a garage or shed with high temperatures can reduce effectiveness, and freezing can damage the polyamide structure, rendering clarifiers useless.

Stain & Scale

Most Stain & Scale chemicals, such as Stain Away, have an indefinite shelf life, with the usual caveat – when closed tightly and stored in a cool, dry location (indoors). As with other liquid pool chemicals sold in bottles, the formulations are very stable, but high and low temperatures should be avoided to maintain product strength.

Alkalinity & Calcium Increaser

Sodium bicarbonate and calcium carbonate are both dry white powder or flake chemicals, and both can remain viable and potent for more than 5 years. As with other dry pool chemicals, shelf life can be extended with tightly closed lids to keep out moisture, which can cause clumping and hardening of your water balance chemicals.

pH Increaser

Sodium carbonate or soda ash (pH Increaser) can remain viable for more than 5 years, when stored in an air-tight container, to lock out moisture. If stored outdoors, humid conditions can pull moisture into the bucket, clumping and hardening, but also converting sodium carbonate to sodium bicarbonate over time, slightly reducing the effect on pH.

pH Decreaser

Sodium Bisulfate and muriatic acid could have a 5 year shelf life; however pH decreasers are acids, and a larger shelf life concern about pH decreasers is the strength of the container. Over time, thin plastic bottles or packaging can break down from contact with acids. So, although pH-Down chemicals last for years, you should probably use them up.

So, what have we learned today? 

Most pool chemicals have a shelf life of 3-5 years, when stored properly:

1. Consistent and cool temperatures, in a dry and dark location.
2. Tight bucket lids and bottle caps, and sealed inner bags to lock out moisture and contaminants.
3. Granular Chlorine can dissolve packaging, repack for long-term storage.
4. Keep all pool chemicals out of reach of children.

Automatic pool cleaners are an integral part of pool maintenance. Disaster strikes and time comes to a standstill if your pool cleaner stops working. Whether you have a suction side, pressure side, or robotic pool cleaner, you will eventually experience some problems, like the ones discussed below. This post covers common pool cleaner troubleshooting steps to help get your cleaner back into gear!

The Three Types of Automatic Pool Cleaners

Suction Side Cleaner

Pressure Side Cleaner

Robotic Cleaner

There are three main types of pool cleaners: suction side, pressure side, and robotic. Suction side cleaners connect to a suction line in your pool, like the wall skimmer, or a dedicated cleaner line that sucks water into the filter pump. Pressure side cleaners operate on the pressure side of the filter pump, which pushes water into the cleaner’s booster pump. Robotic cleaners are independent of the filter pump, and get their power from a standard power cord. 

Like any part of your pool equipment arsenal, pool cleaners malfunction from time to time. This post covers the solutions to common suction side, pressure side, and robotic pool cleaner problems. If your automatic cleaner or pool vacuum isn’t working, this is the post for you!

Troubleshooting Suction Side Cleaners

Powered by the suction of the pump’s water flow, suction side pool cleaners clean the whole pool in a random pattern while the pool circulation system is on. Follow the suction side pool cleaner troubleshooting tips below to solve any issues.

Suction Side Cleaner Does Not Move

Verify the cleaner hose is securely attached to the suction line in the skimmer or cleaner line. Then inspect the hose sections for any air leaks. Close other suction lines, such as the main drain or another skimmer, to increase the suction on the line the cleaner is connected into.

Problems to check for:

1. For low suction pressure, improve draw by closing drain and other suction lines.
2. Dirty pump basket or skimmer basket, or inline strainer basket.
3. Cleaner stuck onto high spot in the pool floor.
4. Cleaner stuck onto floor drains or pop-up in-floor cleaner heads.
5. Air leaks in cleaner hose, or on pipes in front of filter pump.
6. Clog in the cleaner head or hose; check for obstruction.
7. Low or high pool filter pressure gauge readings, indicating flow problems.
8. Bad connection to skimmer, not making a tight seal of hose to skimmer.
9. Problems with automatic bypass valve or skimmer connection devices.
10. Failed or stuck diaphragm or flapper in the cleaner head.

Suction Side Cleaner Is Too Slow

The main reason for this type of issue is typically a congested pool filter or clog at the intake hole at the bottom of your pool cleaner. Clean the intake hole by flipping the cleaner over and clearing out any debris. Also check for obstructions inside the hose and verify all hose connections are secure. 

After clearing the intake hole, clean the skimmer basket, pump strainer basket, and pool filter. Remove any debris and check for damages to the skimmer and strainer baskets. Leaves, rocks, or other rubbish in the baskets will reduce your pump’s water flow and slow down the suction side cleaner.

A clogged basket or dirty filter are the two main causes for a sluggish suction side cleaner. Another potential problem is an air leak in the cleaner hose or the pump. Worn footpads or seals can also reduce cleaner speed and cause it to stick to the pool floor. Finally, check that the suction valves are open to give all suction pressure to the skimmer connected to the cleaner.

Suction Cleaner Is Too Fast

Suction pool cleaners work based on your pool pump’s water flow. Powerful pool pumps create strong water flow, which can cause your suction side cleaner to move faster than normal. Just because your cleaner is fast doesn’t mean it’s efficient. A speedy suction side cleaner will zip past dirt and debris, leaving behind a dirty pool. 

Most suction side cleaners have a device in the skimmer that allows you to control the water flow. You can also open other suction lines, like the main drain, to reduce the flow of water entering the cleaner. 

Suction Cleaner Does Not Cover Entire Pool

If your suction side cleaner does not cover your entire pool, check the hose length! The hose determines how much room the cleaner has to move in your pool. Ideally, the hose needs to reach from the skimmer to the farthest point of your pool, and still have a few feet to spare. Purchase a new hose if your current one is too short for your pool.

If the cleaner’s hose length isn’t the problem, inspect your pool’s return jets. Adjustments to the direction of the return jets in your pool can affect cleaner coverage. The returning water may be pushing your cleaner away from certain areas.

Air Bubbles at Return Line

Air leaks in the hose or connections often cause air bubbles at the return line. Verify the vacuum connections are securely sealed, and that the hose is not punctured. Air will leak into the system if the connections are loose or if the hose is damaged. Replace damaged O-rings, and seal hose leaks with silicone or rubber cement.

Suction Cleaner Gets Stuck on Steps/Ladders

If your cleaner gets stuck on or under your pool ladder, install a ladder guard kit. If it sticks on a raised main drain cover, look at the UniCover, which creates a smooth transition from floor to drain. You can also adjust the hose floats or hose weights (depending on the model), to change the cleaning pattern. As a last resort, place a small boulder in the area, or shorten the pool cleaner hose.

If your pool cleaner gets stuck on the main drain cover because it’s raised above the floor, install a Unibridge to keep your cleaner from getting stuck on raised floor fittings. Reduce the speed of the cleaner if it jams on convex or concaved spots on the pool floor. For gunite pools, a more drastic method would be to shave off the plaster or fill in with more plaster in that area to make it smooth.

Visit our pool cleaner parts department for any spares you need, or for more ideas to keep your pool cleaner from getting stuck.

Troubleshooting Pressure Side Cleaners

Powered by the pressure side of your pool pump system, pressure side pool cleaners don’t use your pool’s filtration system to filter out debris. Follow the pressure side pool cleaner troubleshooting tips below to solve any issues.

Pressure Side Pool Cleaner Does Not Move

Pressure side pool cleaners need about 30 psi to operate. Verify the booster pump is operating, and the filter and pump are turned on and running. Rocks or sand can lodge in the wheels of a pressure side cleaner, preventing movement. Likewise, tiny grains of sand or plaster can make their way around in-line strainers and clog up small openings inside the cleaner.

Pressure side cleaner wheels can be shaft driven, belt driven, or chain driven. Check the tires often for obstructions or damages by slowly turning one wheel at a time. If one wheel turns and the other doesn’t, look for anything blocking the wheel. 

Pressure Pool Cleaner Is Slow

Check the in-line strainer(s) for debris slowing down the water flow to the cleaner. Also check the hose to verify that pressure is not lost somewhere along the line. Slight water loss around the hose swivels is normal.

Loose wheels or loose drive belts can cause your cleaner to behave sluggishly. Worn tires will reduce speed and wall climbing ability. Damaged or missing wheel bearings can cause slow movement. Check your owner’s manual for specific adjustments for your particular pressure pool cleaner.

Since pool water powers pressure side cleaners, a slow moving cleaner is likely caused by inadequate water pressure. Check the filter screens, located at the wall attachment, and in the hose on some newer models. If a booster pump is being used, be sure that both the filter pump and booster pump are operating and not leaking or making funny noises.

With the booster pump running, grab the pool cleaner hose, and slowly pull the cleaner toward you, inspecting the hose for leaks as you pull it out of the water. Hold the cleaner head just above water and inspect it for water moving through the thrust jet, the sweeper tail, or out the debris bag. The thrust jet and sweeper tail should shoot water 15–20 feet. Likewise, if you remove the debris bag, water should spray upward 15–20 feet in the air. If the water is spraying properly out all three exits, you likely do not have a water pressure problem, but a problem with the drive belts slipping, a broken axle, or worn tires.

Pressure Cleaner Does Not Cover Entire Pool

For this problem, all you need to do is adjust the thrust jet, located on the back center, where the water sprays out. The default setting is 11 o’clock, but placing it at 1 o’clock will give the cleaner an opposite cleaning pattern.

The feed hose must be long enough to reach from the wall connection to the farthest point in your pool, with a few feet leftover. Also, make sure the feed hose is floating properly, not sinking or drooping.

Slipping wheels can cause a pressure side cleaner to get stuck in the deep end and not have the strength to pull itself back up into the shallow end. Check belt tension or axle adjustments on newer models, or the front wheel “teeth” on older Polaris and Letro models. 

Strong pressure from wall or floor returns can push a cleaner away from certain areas. In such cases, redirecting the eyeball fittings or nozzle can fix the problem.

Pressure Cleaner Gets Stuck on Steps/Ladders

If the pressure cleaner gets stuck on the stairs, adjust the thrust jet to create a new cleaning pattern. Install ladder guards to block the path around rails to prevent the cleaner from wrapping around the handrail. If the cleaner is going behind ladders or handrails and getting stuck, use a ladder guard. Another option is to remove the ladder if it’s rarely used, or shorten the cleaner hose slightly for entry step handrails.

Change the direction or cleaning pattern of the cleaner if its stuck in a corner of the pool or stuck up against a step. Adjust the thrust jets, hose float, or add weights to the hose to alter the cleaner’s pattern or direction.

As a last resort, place a small boulder in the area, or shorten the pool cleaner hose. Note that most pressure pool cleaners have reverse mechanisms or backup valves to reverse the cleaner direction every few minutes and prevent stalled operation. If equipped, verify your backup valve is working.

Pressure Cleaner Feed Hose Becomes Tangled

Measure the hose to the proper length for the pool size — too much hose will cause tangling. You also need to check that the feed hose is floating properly. Waterlogged hose floats should be replaced, and hose swivels should rotate freely. Another possibility is that not all wheels are being powered. Rotate one of the wheels when the cleaner is in OFF mode, and make sure all wheels turn together.

Too much power to a pressure cleaner can cause it to fly around the pool and tangle itself. Bleed off excess pressure at the wall fitting to slow down the cleaner. If the thrust jet is in a 9 or 3 o’clock position, this will create a circular pattern, which may cause tangling. Visit our pool cleaner parts department for all the parts mentioned above.

If your pool cleaner hose hung on a hook all winter, or the hose was wrapped too tight, it can develop a kink in the hose that causes it to twist and tangle. One solution is to stretch the hose out along the pool deck in the hot sun, using weights if needed, to straighten out. A last resort may be to replace some hose sections.

Troubleshooting Robotic Pool Cleaners

Robotic pool cleaners are electric, and don’t rely on the water flow from your pump’s suction or pressure side to move around the pool. Follow the robotic pool cleaner troubleshooting tips below to solve any issues.

Robotic Pool Cleaner Does Not Move

The floating power cord for your robotic pool cleaner should be firmly plugged into the power supply transformer, which is plugged into an outlet. The power supply should have an indicator light showing that power is being received.

If the cleaner is receiving power, but not moving, faulty or old wiring is likely the cause. Oftentimes, the wires inside the rubber casing will short out or break. Broken or shorted wires are typically located where the power cord meets the cleaner, where the stress on the cord is highest.

If the cord is intact, test the resistance of the wire with a test meter to ensure that the cord wires are not an issue. At this point, check the drive motor itself, to verify connections are tight. Additionally, use the test meter to check that the power is reaching the motor. If it is, and the motor is not responding to the power, you may need a new drive motor.

Robotic Pool Cleaner Is Slow

This is usually a problem of loose drive tracks, loose drive belts, or missing small parts that keep tension on the belts and tracks. You may notice that the cleaner moves, but doesn’t climb the walls. This could indicate worn drive tracks or wheel tube brushes.

When it occurs, however, the cause can be a full debris bag or filter, or the drive tracks or wheels have become worn or rounded, or are loose or out of alignment. Check all the belts and pulleys for proper position and tension, and the wheels for proper alignment and movement.

More Pool Cleaner Troubleshooting Tips

If everything has failed, and your pool cleaner is being stubborn and refuses to cooperate, it may be time to call one of our pool specialists/advisers who can assist further with troubleshooting or repair. Of course, our specialists can also help you select a new pool cleaner if you’d rather just start over.

Most of the time, your pool cleaner just needs a few tweaks here or there, or some pool cleaner parts, and it’s off and running again.

Pool Cleaner is Not Cleaning

If your pool cleaner moves around the pool normally, but does not pick up debris, clear the clog in the suction throat, or empty the debris bag or basket. Suction cleaners also need a clean pool filter to move and vacuum well.

If your pool cleaner does not clean the entire pool, adjust the cleaning pattern or speed. Increasing the pool cleaner speed is possible on pressure cleaners by closing the bleeder valve at the wall connection. For suction cleaners, closing other valves while using the cleaner and keeping the basket clean can improve speed. If your pool cleaner seems slower than normal, look for the cause of the pressure loss (or suction loss).

Pool Cleaner is Not Climbing Walls

When a pool cleaner does not climb the walls, there is a problem with the cleaning pattern or cleaner speed. Making adjustments to the cleaner pattern as described above may produce different results, allowing the cleaner to make a better approach to the wall. Adjusting the cleaner speed is another way to overcome problems climbing the pool walls. It takes a lot of traction and suction to climb a pool wall without falling off. If it’s not climbing the walls like it used to, it’s probably also going slower. Be sure there are no pressure leaks or suction leaks in the hose that connects to the cleaner, and that the hose is not getting in the way. Tangled pool cleaner hoses are usually the result of waterlogged or poorly placed hose floats.

Pool cleaners require timely replacement of pool cleaner parts to operate at their full potential and prevent failure. If your pool cleaner is beyond repair and it’s time for a new one, check out our selection of over 100 pool cleaners, in stock and ready to ship! 

When closing an above ground pool for winter, there are many skills known to the veteran pool owner. Getting the perfect fit and performance from your winter pool cover is easier when you develop a few techniques of your own. In this post, we discuss simple ways to solve any above ground pool winterization problems with simple tools and supplies.

Hack #1: Milk Jugs to Weigh Down Cable

This above ground pool winterization hack has been around for years! Save your half-gallon or gallon milk or juice jugs so you can hang them on the cable of your winter cover. Fill the jugs halfway with water (with a splash of antifreeze) to help keep the cable taut, and help block wind. You can do the same thing, however, with our wall bags, perfectly sized vinyl wall bags that expand as the water inside freezes.

Hack #2: Soda Bottles as Ice Compensators

When temps reach 32° F, the pool surface freezes solid. Ice expands nearly 10% and puts enormous pressure on pool walls. Some folks use soda bottles to absorb ice expansion. Simply fill twelve 2-liter bottles with pea gravel, tape them together, and toss them in your pool! Alternatively, use air pillows, which keep ice from forming on the water’s surface! Use enough to cover about 10% of your pool surface area.

Hack #3: Lumber to Stop Wind

Some people with fairly small pools can use aluminum pool poles across the pool to keep above ground pool covers secure. If that’s not an option, the winter cover seal accomplishes the same goal.

Hack #4: Ratchet Strap Around Pool

A ratchet strap is a nylon webbing strap and a ratcheting winch, similar to the small version that comes with the pool cover cable. Use several ratchet straps to make a star pattern over the pool, like the spider cover saver. Or you can buy an 80–100 ft ratchet strap, and use it instead of the standard cover cable and winch system.

Hack #5: Floating Tennis Ball to Absorb Oils

Especially during the winter months, your skimmer and filter can’t remove surface oils as well as during warmer weather. These oils mix with floating gunk, and deposit on the walls. While tennis balls can absorb floating oils, our 2-pack of scum balls, treated sponges specifically designed for absorbing floating oils, are even more effective.

Hack #6: Store Equipment Inside

Storing equipment inside is a good idea if your pump and filter are easily moved. Especially for filter systems that are not covered or protected from the elements, a climate-controlled location is better. However, don’t move a sand filter system, because too much jostling can damage the laterals or standpipe. For cartridge or D.E. (or Diatomaceous Earth) filter systems, drain the water, and move it inside for winter.

Hack #7: Water Weight for High Winds

Many people in high-wind areas leave some water on top of the cover, to secure the cover during windy days. The problem is that too little may not be enough, and too much water can stress the cover. When it freezes and thaws, the sharp edges of the ice sheet may cut the cover. Instead, many pool owners like to use a cover seal to wrap the outer edge of the pool, or use cover clips to clip the cover to the top rail, especially on both sides of each vertical upright.

Hack #8: Siphon Water Cover

Of course, we sell small submersible cover pumps to pump off water for you, but if you want a natural solution to the rain water and snow melt that accumulates, many people use the old siphon method. It’s fine, but it rarely gets everything before the hose sucks in air, loses prime, or the hose clogs. The Dryco cover drain is the permanent, engineered solution to cover draining. Or use the pool cover drain for a weighted siphon plate that resists clogging.

Hack #9: Winter Chlorine Floater

Many people fill up their summer pool floater with chlorine tablets to slowly distribute chlorine during the fall months. This is all well and good, until the floater rests against the side wall or tips over. All could lead to bleaching or fading of your pool liner. It’s better to stick with the non-chlorine sanitizing winter floater, found only in our In The Swim Winter Kits.

It is that time of the year again – pool openings are just around the corner! Whether you have been putting it off for the last couple of years or just want a new look and feel to your pool; what better way to start off the pool season than with a new above ground pool liner?

There are several different types of above ground pool liners, so how do you know which type of pool liner is right for your pool? If you have your original pool manual it would tell you in there, but most of have lost/misplaced that years ago. There are some very easy ways to determine what kind of pool liner you will need for your pool.

Overlap Above Ground Liners

To determine if you have an overlap pool liner, look under the top rail to see if any of the liner is visible on the outside of the pool. This is the easiest way to determine if you have an overlap liner pool. If you’re not sure, you can remove two upright caps and a section of the top rail. A typical overlap pool uses plastic pool coping strips to hold the pool liner in place. Whenever the liner is hanging over the outside of the pool wall, it’s an overlap pool liner.

Overlap liners are made for flat bottomed pools with a wall height of 48” to 54”. You only need to know the size and shape of your pool. For example, if you have a round pool, you will need to know its diameter. If you have an oval pool you will need to measure the length and width. (Don´t guess at your pool measurements, please measure from wall to wall – to be sure.

Beaded Above Ground Liners

Beaded liners differ from overlap liners because this type of liner fits into a pre-existing track on the pool wall. There is no need to take off the top rail in most cases. The beaded liner inserts into the track and does not go over the wall, as does an overlap liner.

A standard bead measures a little over 1/8” on the top width and 5/16” on the hook and extends down to 1-1/8” to the bottom. When purchasing a beaded liner you need to order the exact wall height. If you end up with a liner that is too long, unsightly wrinkles are the result. Carefully measure the wall height from the flat floor to the track. Check in two or more locations to be sure of your measurement. If ordering by phone, be sure to let our representatives know your wall height – either 48”; 52”; or 54”.

Unibead Above Ground Liners

Also referred to also as a “J-hook”, unibead pool liners look like a hook sliding over the pool wall. The J-hook hangs the liner over the wall, instead of using a track. The top measurement is 3/16” and the hook extends down to a little less than 3/4”. The long side of the hook measures 1-1/2”. J-Hook, or Unibead pool liners allow more pool liner style choices, and also allow you to do away with liner coping strips.

You will need to order the proper wall height, to use a Unibead liner. With overlap liners, you can always pull the liner over the wall further, to prevent wrinkles. J-Hook liners have a fixed wall height and are not adjustable in this manner. To avoid problems, measure your wall height precisely, in several locations, from the flat floor, to the top of the pool wall.

Converting From Overlap to Beaded

Now that you have an understanding of the two different liner types, what happens if you have an overlap pool, but prefer the selection of beaded liner patterns? A simple conversion using In the Swim liner conversion strips. They come in 4’ sections. Order enough liner strips to encircle the entire pool perimeter. If you have a beaded liner, you cannot change it to an overlap style, only the other way around.

Next time we´ll talk about how to replace your above ground pool liner. Enjoy your new above ground pool liner!

Above ground pool covers face many challenges during the winter months. From heavy snow to strong winds, they are frequently at risk for damage. Properly installing an above ground pool cover is the first step to lowering the chance of it being ruined. Haphazardly placed covers are a sure-fire way to shorten the lifespan of the cover and possibly your pool.

Below we discuss five ways to make your above ground pool cover more effective, and keep your above ground pool safer during winter.

Winter Pool Cover Tip #1: Use Air Pillows

Above ground pool owners will be relieved to know that most of these tips involve very simple and affordable solutions, perfectly exemplified by air pillows. Winter cover air pillows are used to keep a solid ice sheet from forming on the surface of your pool water.

Place air pillows in the center of the pool, with the pool cover pulled tight over the pillow to press it into the water. Pool pillow pal is an inexpensive accessory to hold the air pillow in the center of the pool. Tip: Inflate your air pillows in seconds with a Shop Vac. Bonus Tip: Since water expands 9% when frozen, buy enough air pillows to cover about 10% of your pool surface area.

Winter Pool Cover Tip #2: Beware the Wind

Wind is possibly an above ground pool cover’s worst enemy. Above ground covers can be trashed if the wind gets under the edges and begins to whip and flap the cover.

Secure the winter cover cable tightly with the wench (included with all above ground winter pool covers). However, that’s not enough to stop strong wind. Some folks weigh down the cable with milk jugs or use our wall bags, which is fine for moderate winds.

The best options to keep out heavy winds are either cover seal or cover clips, both made for this purpose, with the added benefit of keeping your cover taut and smooth all winter. And there’s one more: the spider winter cover saver, five long bungee cords connected to a center hub that keeps your cover (and your air pillow) in place.

Winter Pool Cover Tip #3: Mind the Water Level

It’s important to keep an eye on your pool’s water level. If it drops more than an inch, it can stress the cover and the pool. If the pool loses 6-12″ of water, with rain water pooling on top of the cover, it will damage the cover and possibly the pool. Fix leaks before closing, or add water under the cover if needed.

It’s also important to mind the water level on top of your winter cover. A small bit (1/4″-1/2″) of rain water is OK, but more than that could stress the cover. And 6-12″ of water will push pool water over the edges, lowering pool water.

Pump regularly with a pool cover pump, like a manual or automatic cover pump or a non-electric cover-saver siphon pump.

Pump the water away from your pool, and don’t pump out pool water through holes in your winter cover! If the cover has small holes, place the pump far from the holes.

Winter Pool Cover Tip #4: Remove Leaves

Leaves on the pool cover can get really messy, really fast. Trying to remove leaves and sticks with a skimmer net or pool brush is not effective. Instead, use a pool leaf rake to scoop it off as it’s much more effective, but not easy, definitely not fun, and sharp sticks could damage a pool cover.

If your pool has large trees within 50 feet, take a look at our leaf nets for above ground pools. Place this over your pool cover when closing, and remove it after all the leaves have fallen.

Winter Pool Cover Tip #5: Check Cover Periodically

If you are like me, once you winterize, and you know you’ve done it right, you probably try not to think about your pool until the spring. I’ve learned that this is a huge mistake. Tending to your above ground pool is essentially a year round responsibility.

You can’t just set it and forget it. You will need to visit your pool cover regularly, not just for dewatering and dredging activities, but to tighten up the cover to pull out slack, correct wind gaps, and readjust the air pillow(s). It only takes a few moments a couple of times a month to run a quick check. The money you save via damage control is worth the effort.

Now You’re Ready to Close the Pool!

These above ground pool covering tips are affordable, simple, and do not require much of your time. As a pool owner, the cheapest, quickest path isn’t always the best path.

An above ground pool winter cover is an investment that protects a much larger investment: your pool! Spend a few extra bucks for a good cover, and spend time to do things right, along with the right winter cover accessories, and you can avoid mid-winter cover disasters!

In addition, check out our Above Ground Pool Winterization Hacks.

A swimming pool mural is a painted design inside of a pool, but a pool wall mural is outside of a pool, on an adjacent wall or fence. There’s amazing possibilities, as these 21 pool owners below demonstrate – and because pool wall or fence murals are not underwater, it’s easier, cheaper and lasts longer than pool murals.

Pool Wall Murals

These are great pool wall murals and pool fence mural ideas. You may have a muralist in your area who can help, just search online for a wall muralist near me, or visit findamuralist.com to get started!

Never closed a saltwater swimming pool before? Not to worry! There are a few key differences compared to closing a regular chlorine pool, but it’s still a simple process that most pool owners can handle themselves. To prevent algae growth, surface stains, and expensive pool damage, we’ve broken down the process of winterizing a saltwater pool into 10 easy steps.

1. Do Not Add Salt

Water conductivity decreases as cooler weather sets in, which can cause a chlorine generator to indicate low salt levels. Many people see this and mistakenly add more salt to the pool, not realizing they may be overdosing the water. For the most accurate salinity reading in cool temperatures, use salt test strips or a digital salinity tester instead.

Maintain salt levels within the manufacturer’s recommended range at all times. However, when winterizing a saltwater pool, it’s best to leave salt levels a little on the low end of the scale. Salt can react with contaminants in the water and leave unsightly pool stains, so avoid adding extra salt to the pool in the weeks leading up to closing.

2. Balance the Water

In addition to checking salinity, test and balance other aspects of your water chemistry. One week before your closing date, make sure pH is 7.2–7.8, Total Alkalinity is between 80–120 ppm, and Calcium Hardness is between 200–400 ppm. Adjust as needed, and allow the water to circulate.

Saltwater is more likely to form mineral scale on pool surfaces if the pH, TA, and calcium levels are out of whack. Unbalanced water can decrease the effectiveness of your winter chemicals, so it’s extremely important to keep these numbers in check. If the calcium level is higher than 400 ppm, keep the pH under 7.6 to help prevent scale formation.

3. Clean the Pool

To avoid difficulties in the spring, get your pool as clean as possible before the cover goes on. Any dirt, debris or organic residue left behind can stain a pool over the winter. Thoroughly skim, brush, and vacuum the pool to remove as much debris as possible. Also clean out the skimmer. In the days leading up to pool closing, run the filter longer than normal to ensure the water stays as clean as possible.

A few days before closing, shock the pool to get rid of any lingering bacteria, algae spores and organic matter hanging out in the water. If you are using a pre-sized pool closing kit, it will come with the correct amount of granular shock needed for your pool.

4. Remove Equipment from the Pool

Diving boards, ladders, handrails, and slides should be removed for the winter. Some are set far enough back that they won’t interfere with the winter cover or safety cover, and can be left as is. If the deck mounting brackets are too close to the pool edge, remove to prevent stress and damage to your winter cover or safety cover. Also remove any toys, floats or pool cleaners when winterizing your saltwater pool.

5. Add Winter Chemicals

There are many types of pool closing kits available. Some are even specifically labeled “saltwater closing kits,” but the truth is that all winter kits are safe to use in saltwater swimming pools. Not only are pool closing kits extremely convenient, but they’re also a cost-effective way to purchase winterizing chemicals. Some kits even include a WinterPill for maximum winterizing power.

High chlorine can break down algaecide and damage a winter cover. Check water balance and chlorine levels one last time before adding your remaining winter chemicals. The pool should already be cleaned and shocked, and chlorine levels should be back in the normal 1–3 ppm range. When adding a stain and scale inhibitor, allow the pump and filter to run for at least 8–10 hours to fully disperse the chemical. Winter algaecide is usually one of the last things added before covering the pool, after the water has been lowered and the pool equipment has been disconnected. Waiting until the end keeps the algaecide more concentrated. If you want to add the algaecide later, agitate the water with a pool brush to help disperse it through the water.

6. Lower the Water Level

This step is optional for vinyl pools using a faceplate-type skimmer plug. If this is the case for your pool, continue to the next step — there’s no need to lower your water level. If you have a D.E. or sand filter, start this process by backwashing the filter to clear out dirt and debris from your filter, and start the cleaning process. While backwashing, be careful not to let the water level drop too much. Don’t allow the pump to run dry from lack of water in the skimmer — this can damage your pool pump! Finish lowering the water with a submersible pump, use the main drain, or siphon water from the pool.

Above ground pools should be drained a few inches below the skimmer. Inground pools with mesh covers will need to be about 12″ below the skimmer (to allow rain and snow to melt), and those with solid winter covers should be about 6″ below the skimmer. To prevent damage to your pool cover, the water should never be lower than 18″ from the pool ledge.

7. Winterize the Salt Generator

Remove the salt cell when winterizing your saltwater pool. Start by turning off all circuits to pool equipment, including the pool pump. Unscrew the unions to disconnect the generator cell from the pool lines. You can replace it with a temporary “dummy” cell to keep the line properly spaced and sealed through the winter.

Check for scaly deposits on the plates inside the salt cell, and clean it well with a high pressure hose. You can also use a plastic or wood tool to gently scrape away any scale buildup. NEVER use metal to scrape the generator plates, and don’t aggressively scrape at deposits. Doing so can damage the coating on the plates and shorten the lifespan of your generator cell. For particularly stubborn scale, you can use diluted muriatic acid to soak the cell. Once dry and clean, store it indoors. If it’s time to replace your salt cell, make a note to purchase one before spring opening.

8. Properly Drain and Clean All Equipment

Much like you did for the salt generator cell, you’ll also want to drain and clean all pool equipment – pool pump, filter, heater, additional sanitizers or chlorinators, solar covers, etc. The power circuits should be turned off before getting started on any electrical equipment. Remove all drain plugs from equipment, and keep them open to allow proper drainage. Store the drain plugs in a safe place; many pool owners like to keep them in the pump basket.

Remove the filter cartridge or filter grids from your cartridge or DE filter, and clean them thoroughly with a garden hose and/or soak them in a filter cleaning solution. While cleaning your pool equipment, this is the perfect time to lubricate the o-rings. This keeps them newer longer, and the lubricant will help prevent them from cracking over the winter. Lastly, use a shop vac, a small compressor or a blower to remove any remaining water from equipment. If possible, store pool equipment indoors, safe from harsh winter conditions.

9. Winterize Pool Lines and Skimmer

This is probably the most important step when winterizing a saltwater pool. Failure to properly winterize pool lines can cause cracked pipes and expensive underground repairs. First, remove the eyeball fittings from all return lines, and remove the skimmer basket. Then use a Cyclone blower or a small air compressor to force all water from the intake and return lines. Once the water has been cleared, plug the skimmer with a collapsible skimmer guard, and plug the return lines with threaded pool plugs or expansion plugs. Once the skimmer and returns are plugged, turn off the blower/air compressor.

Done properly, no water should enter the pool plumbing. Even so, non-toxic pool antifreeze is good insurance against damage in case of a faulty plug. It’s also good to use if you’re not certain the pool lines have been completely cleared. Follow manufacturer’s instructions for adding antifreeze to your pool lines. DO NOT leave antifreeze in pool equipment — it can gunk up filter media and damage o-rings and gaskets.

10. Add Cover to Pool

Before covering the pool, do one final skim to remove as much debris as possible. The cover should be clean and free of rips and tears. Holes can be patched with a safety cover patch or a winter cover patch. If an oil-absorbing sponge or WinterPill was included in your pool closing kit, toss them in the pool before the cover is installed.

For a solid winter cover, fill up the water weights around the perimeter of the pool to hold the cover securely in place. With a safety cover, bring the anchors to the surface of the pool deck and use the special installation tool to attach the cover straps to the anchors. For an above ground pool cover, use an air pillow underneath the cover to break up the ice, and use a cable and winch kit to secure it to the pool. Extras like cover clips or a winter cover seal will prevent wind from getting under and damaging an above ground pool cover.

Final Tips

Even though the pool is closed, there are still a few maintenance tips for keeping up with through the winter. These will ensure an easier spring opening and a lower risk of damage to your pool and cover.

• Keep the cover clear of debris.
• Use a pool cover pump to remove excess rain water and snow melt from the cover.
• Check water chemistry every 6-8 weeks if possible.
• Monitor the water level. Undetected leaks can wreak havoc on covers and pool walls.
• Add chemicals as necessary. Warm, fluctuating temperatures evaporate algaecide and sanitizer quickly.
• In the spring, use Salt Water Magic Monthly Maintenance to quickly get your pool back in top shape.