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The former Blues player and manager cannot understand why the Belgian forward is being benched and not used in a system which plays to his strengths

Maurizio Sarri’s handling of Eden Hazard continues to baffle former Chelsea manager Glenn Hoddle, with the Blues warned that Real Madrid will use the Belgian properly.

A Belgium international forward was benched again for the first leg of a Europa League semi-final clash with Eintracht Frankfurt on Thursday.

Chelsea battled their way to a 1-1 draw on German soil, with Hazard introduced just past the hour mark.

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Sarri had claimed that his most effective attacking weapon had been in need of a rest, but Hoddle believes a 19-goal star should be the first name on the team sheet.

He feels Madrid, who continue to be linked with a summer swoop for the 28-year-old, would find a way of using Hazard at his most effective.

The ex-Chelsea player and coach told BT Sport: “I really for the life of me can’t understand why you wouldn’t play your best player in this semi-final.

“They will only find out how important Hazard is after he is gone, unfortunately, because he is that good a player.

“But let’s face it, without him in the first half they were ordinary.

“What he does brilliantly is you can give him the ball and he will draw three players over to him and he can get you up the pitch.

“But he has goals in him and has got end product in there and around the penalty area. He is a danger.

“He has got everything going forward, possibly not all the time he doesn’t track back, but they will miss him.

“I actually think that he could be even better as a No. 10 with two holding midfield players behind him.

“You could then just say to him go and play and he might get that if he goes to Real Madrid, unfortunately.”

Hazard is yet to extend a contract at Stamford Bridge which is due to expire at the end of next season.

As a result, he is being heavily linked with a move to Madrid, despite Chelsea putting him front and centre at the reveal of their new home kit for the 2019-20 campaign.

The Arsenal boss won the competition three seasons in a row while in charge of Sevilla and has led the Gunners to the semi-finals this term

Granit Xhaka believes Unai Emery’s past success in the Europa League will count for little when Arsenal travel to Valencia next week for the second leg of their semi-final.

Emery won the Europa League in three successive seasons while in charge of Sevilla, and with Arsenal taking a 3-1 lead to the Mestalla for their second leg this coming Thursday, the Spaniard is well on course to lift the trophy for the fourth time in his successful career.

It would be an impressive achievement, especially in his first season in north London, but Xhaka does not believe what has gone on in the past will have much of an impact on Arsenal’s most recent attempt of European success.

“If you have a coach like this you can take a lot of experience from him,” said the Switzerland international. “But the past is the past and I don’t think it’s so important.

“We spoke before the game [first leg] about his experience but in the end we had to show it on the pitch.”

Xhaka added: “It was good to win 3-1, we wanted a clean sheet but we didn’t start well. We showed the big character in this team once more to come back and win against a big team.

“We had not the best experience last year [in the semi-final]. We played very well here against Atletico but didn’t win.

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“Away games are always difficult against teams like this but 3-1 is a good result and we hope we can score one there, then after we’re in the final.”

Arsenal went into Thursday’s game on the back of three straight defeats in the Premier League, a losing streak which has seen them drop out of the top four with just two games of the campaign remaining.

The Gunners now need Chelsea to drop points to have any chance of finishing in the Champions League spots, and even then they realistically need to win both of their remaining games, against Brighton on Sunday and then at Burnley next weekend.

Given Emery’s side’s dreadful away form, that is far from a foregone conclusion – but Xhaka is adamant that there is still hope.

He said: “If you see the results from the last week in the Premier League of course we are not happy but we still have a chance.

“Everything isn’t in our hands, what is in our hands is the Europa League. We want to finish our season back in the Champions League.”

The Catalans saw their European dreams extinguished following a remarkable capitulation on Merseyside, to add to their dismal recent last four record

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Barcelona’s dreams of a treble are in tatters after their hopes of reaching the Champions League final went up in smoke once again after they were stunned 4-0 by Liverpool at Anfield.

The Blaugrana failed to find the back of the net on Merseyside, with their continental exploits curtailed shy of the last round once again by another humiliating loss for Ernesto Valverde’s side.

Having swept their visitors away at Camp Nou last week with a 3-0 victory – thanks in no small part to Lionel Messi’s talismanic skill – the Catalan club were heavy favourites to reach the final at Wanda Metropolitano this season.

However, the Argentine and his fellow playmakers found their creative power stymied by a brilliant, high-intensity performance from Jurgen Klopp’s injury-blighted Reds, who still mustered the vital number of goals to win on aggregate despite missing Mohamed Salah and Roberto Firmino through injury.

As such, the club suffered their heaviest ever defeat at the hands of an English opponent in all European competitions.

Furthermore, Barca became the first team to be on the receiving end of multiple Champions League knockout tie exits after holding a three-plus goal lead from the first leg, having been eliminated by Roma last season in similar circumstances.

It was only the fourth time any team has overturned such a deficit to reach the next stage of the competition.

The result means that they have now been eliminated at the penultimate stage in three of their last four Champions League semi-final ties.

Save for the 2014-15 campaign, where they beat Bayern Munich to reach the final and subsequently down Juventus, Barca have failed to progress beyond the final four on their last trio of visits to this stage.

In 2011-12, they were sunk by a second leg injury-time winner from Fernando Torres as Chelsea came from behind at Camp Nou to snatch a 2-2 draw and win 3-2 on aggregate.

The following year, they were foiled again at the same mark by Bayern Munich, who delivered a 4-0 battering in Bavaria before following it up with a 3-0 romp in Barcelona for a 7-0 victory on aggregate.

Indeed, in the latter campaign, Barca won only one knockout stage game, against Milan in the second leg of the round-of-16.

They lost the first tie 2-0 before clocking up four goals in the reverse for a 4-2 aggregate win, and then required a superior away goal count to see them through in a 3-3 aggregate draw with Paris Saint-Germain.

Barcelona can at the very least console themselves with their La Liga title win, though their wait for European success will now stretch for at least another season.

The former Blues full-back has endorsed his old team-mate for a highly-coveted role, amid rumours the Italian boss could leave this summer

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Derby County manager Frank Lampard would be a “great” choice to succeed Maurizio Sarri at Chelsea next season, according to Glen Johnson.

The Blues legend has enjoyed a successful first year in management at Pride Park, guiding the Rams to a Championship play-off final against Aston Villa.

Lampard has been linked with a return to Chelsea as a result, as rumours linking current head coach Sarri with a summer exit continue to swirl .

The Italian tactician has had a mixed first year at the Bridge, having been drafted in to replace Antonio Conte at the helm in 2018.

The Blues secured a top-three Premier League finish and reached the Carabao Cup final, but ultimately lost to Manchester City after a tense penalty shoot-out.

Sarri’s side will have a second chance to pick up some silverware in the Europa League final, with an all-English tie against Arsenal scheduled on May 29.

Johnson, who played for Chelsea between 2003 and 2007, feels Sarri’s fate beyond the end of the campaign has already been decided, regardless of the final result in Baku.

He told Talk Sport : “I do think the club have made their mind up already. Sarri hasn’t done a bad job, I just think there are a few personalities that are clashing at Chelsea.

“If they win the final, you’d say it’s a positive season.

“But I don’t think it’s about the results, it’s just the way they’re getting the results.”

Johnson went on to suggest that Lampard would be the ideal man to take up managerial duties at Chelsea , given his illustrious history with the club.

The former England international spent 13 years at the Bridge as a player, scoring 211 goals in 648 games from midfield.

Lampard won 11 major trophies in total, including three Premier League titles and the Champions League.

“I think Lampard will definitely be Chelsea manager one day, and it might be sooner than I anticipated,” Johnson added.

“Could he do the job? Now might be slightly too early and I’m sure Lamps would probably agree with that, but I definitely think he’ll be capable of being successful as the Chelsea manager.

“I personally think it’s too early, but I could also see it happening. It’s exciting.

“I actually want him to get the job, I think he’d be great there.

“He is Mr Chelsea, he cares about the club and he would be interested in the youth teams and be the link between all the age groups and get the club back on its feet.”

The Liverpool boss has accused UEFA of “interesting planning” and is concerned for players health with important games so close together

Liverpool boss Jurgen Klopp has bemoaned the scheduling of the UEFA Nations League Finals so soon after the Champions League final, citing the risk to players.

The Reds clash with Tottenham in Madrid on June 1 and many of the two teams’ players will be in action when England play Netherlands five days later in a Guimaraes semi-final.

Klopp believes players are at risk from the constant action and has accused UEFA of “interesting planning” with its placement of a tournament he has previously criticised.

“On June 1 we play the Champions League final and on June 6 there is a wonderful tournament called the Nations Cup [League],” he told reporters.

“Everyone looked at me when I said it was not such a good idea. Now, surprise, two English teams are in the Champions League final.

“If you don’t learn to deal with our players in a better way competition wise, it is the only chance to kill this wonderful game. For now, other people have to deal with that.

“It’s not Gareth [Southgate’s] fault. To plan something like this and be surprised that two top sides are involved in the Champions League final, and a lot of these players are involved in the Nations League… that is interesting planning.”

Klopp also extended his sympathies to Liverpool and Tottenham fans, who face exorbitant prices to travel to Madrid for the Champions League showpiece.

“Obviously travel agencies and hotels are not silly. It is difficult for supporters. Madrid is expensive but at least it is not another part of the world.”

That led Klopp to take aim at a piece of UEFA planning that will see Arsenal and Chelsea contest a London derby in Baku later this month, after both reached the Europa League final.

“Going to Baku for the Europa League final is a strange decision, I think. I don’t know what the organisers have for breakfast when they make these decisions,” he added.

“Last year we went to Kiev – a wonderful city. But it is unlikely that a team from that part of the world will be involved. Madrid will have to be prepared for 200,000 English fans.

“These decisions must be much more sensible. Maybe the cities must agree to a price cut first? One hundred pounds a room and not £2,700! I sympathise with supporters a lot.”

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Niko Kovac’s side could complete a domestic double this weekend – but that still might not be enough to save the coach his job at the top

Fresh from their Bundesliga triumph, Bayern Munich will have the chance to seal a second piece of silverware in as many weeks when they face RB Leipzig in the DFB-Pokal final this weekend.

Niko Kovac’s side could complete a domestic double when they square off with Ralf Rangnick’s team at Olympiastadion in Berlin, to sign off 2018-19 on a high.

Yet, peversely, it could also serve to be the swansong for the Croatian, who looks set to be sacked after only one season at the helm  despite his success.

Leipzig are meanwhile looking to lift their first major honour, and would like nothing more than to take down the giants of German football in the process.

Game RB Leipzig v Bayern Munich
Date Saturday, May 25
Time 7.00pm BST / 2.00pm ET


In the United States (US), the game will be broadcast on ESPNEWS, though it will not be available for streaming.

US TV channel Online stream
ESPNEWS N/A

In the United Kingdom (UK), the game will not be broadcast on television. However, it will be available for streaming on YouTube.

UK TV channel Online stream
N/A YouTube


Position RB Leipzig squad
Goalkeepers Gulacsi, Muller, Mvogo, Krahl
Defenders Saracchi, Orban, Upamecano, Konate, Klostermann, Mukiele, Halstenberg, Laimer, Nukan
Midfielders Sabitzer, Haidara, Adams, Forsberg, Ilsanker, Demme, Stierlin, Majetschak, Bias, Kampl
Forwards , Poulsen, Werner, Bruma, Cunha, Augustin, Kruger, Smith Rowe, Hartmann

Kevin Kampl is available to Ralf Rangnick, who fielded a rotated line-up in the final day defeat to Werder Bremen in order to allow his key players a rest.

As such, they have named a strong line-up to challenge for the trophy.

RB Leipzig starting XI:  Gulacsi; Klostermann, Konate, Orban, Halstenberg; Sabitzer, Adams, Kampl; Poulsen, Forsberg, Werner.

Subs: Upamecano, Haidara, Cunha, Mukiele, Laimer, Mvogo, Demme.

Position Bayern Munich squad
Goalkeepers  Fruchtl, Ulreich, Hoffmann
Defenders Kimmich, Sule, Hummels, Alaba, Boateng
Midfielders Martinez, Gnabry, Goretzka, James, Rafinha, Davies, Thiago
Forwards Coman, Lewandowski, Muller, Wagner, Ribery

Manuel Neuer, Javi Martinez are fit enough to figure, but James Rodriguez misses out. No risks are taken on Leon Goretzka after seeing him go off injured in the 5-1 victory over Frankfurt that clinched the Bundesliga title.

The Bavarians will be looking to seal their first win in this competition since 2016.

Bayern Munich starting XI: Neuer; Kimmich, Sule, Hummels, Alaba; Thiago, Martinez; Gnabry, Muller, Coman; Lewandowski.

Subs: Ulreich, Ribery, Robben, Rafinha, Boateng, Tolisso, Sanches.



Bayern Munich are heavy favourites to claim the trophy and are priced at 1/2 with bet365 . RB Leipzig can be backed at 5/1 while a draw is available for 10/3.

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It’s rare for such speculation over the future of a maiden-season coach to be the focus of build-up to a major cup final – and yet, that is exactly what swirls around Bayern Munich boss Niko Kovac as he looks to lift the DFB-Pokal for the second campaign in a row.

The former Eintracht Frankfurt coach, who took over the reins at the Bundesliga champions last year, has already guided them back to the title and could very well complete a domestic double on Saturday.

Yet it is thought that he has underperformed in the role, having reportedly lost the confidence of the board and fallen out with a number of key players over the season, while his failure to progress Bayern further in European competition is likely to remain another black mark against his name.

As such, he looks set to exit the club following the conclusion of their commitments this season, regardless of further results .

Speculation also swirls between the two sides in regards to the future of Leipzig’s prized striker Timo Werner, who has been linked with a switch to their Bundesliga rivals.

Bayern defender Joshua Kimmich was asked earlier this week whether he felt if the 23-year-old would slot into life easily at the Allianz Arena.

“Of course it’s a different game for us,” the Germany international said . “But, in principle, a striker of Timo’s quality, who has scored about 10 to 15 goals, for two or three years consecutively can help many teams.”

The pair are both members of the international set-up under Joachim Low and have played together before.

Leipzig boss Ralf Rangnick, who will also be waving goodbye to the role when he returns to become the club’s sporting director after Saturday, remains unconvinced that their rivals will swoop for Werner, feeling they would have already put out feelers if they were interested.

“If Bayern were absolutely sure about Timo, they would have already officially contacted us with a request,” he stated . “Anything else would be unusual for Bayern, especially since we have a good relationship with them.”

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12th Sep 2019

With the seemingly endless influx of new novels hitting the real and virtual bookshelves every day, the choice can seem overwhelming. But, occasionally a novel comes along with the promise of delivering escapism by way of a subject matter — royals, romance and a Gossip Girl-esque scandal — that is a no-brainer must-read and, for members of book clubs, the next novel to add to the list. 

American Royals by US author Katharine McGee, is just such a novel set to ignite and delight book clubs and literary-loving fans of The Princess Diaries, Gossip Girl, The Crown or even just the real-life British royals.

The novel flips the script on the US as a republic and instead posits what it would look like if it had a royal family. But not just any old royal family with a vault full of priceless jewels and a handful of appearances to make, a family with college-age twins (Princess Samantha and Prince Jefferson) and a twenty-something soon-to-be-queen (Princess Beatrice) navigating all the regular young adult issues such as relationships, family dynamics, romance, friendships, frenemies, heartbreak, and what the future holds.

Intrigued? Here, American Royals author Katharine McGee shares with Vogue Australia how British royals including Prince William, Kate Middleton and actress-turned-duchess Meghan Markle along with real-life events inspired the book’s characters — Princess Samantha, Prince Jeff, Princess Beatrice, Daphne Deighton, Nina Gonzalez — and storylines (ironically, Princess Beatrice’s romance was inspired not by the real Princess Beatrice but Wallis Simpson). The author also shares who she can see playing key roles (Cole Sprouse!) if the novel is adapted for the screen.

I understand you’re a huge royal fan and have read widely about them, what is it about the royals that interests you?
“There’s something deeply compelling about the social construct of monarchy: the idea that one person will represent an entire nation simply because of his birth. It’s divine right — or in other words, fate. And it’s hard to write a novel about fate these days. Thankfully, there is no more destiny in the modern world; everyone gets to decide what they want to do with their lives. Royalty is the rare exception. To be king or queen is an exalted and privileged position, but it’s still one that is chosen for you. I have always wondered what it was like for Prince William, to grow up in a generation where everyone else can choose their path except for him.

As a storyteller, I’m fascinated by the interplay between those two forces — an inherited sense of duty, and a modern drive toward self-expression — especially as they impact the young woman who will someday be queen.”

Can you please share if any of the characters are based on any of the British royals?
“I’ve been drawn to Princess Margaret ever since I saw Vanessa Kirby’s incredible performance in The Crown. Like her grand-nephew Prince Harry, Margaret was constantly overshadowed by a sibling who would inherit the throne. But to me, her story is even more captivating than [Prince] Harry’s because she was a young woman growing up in the turbulence of war, who fell in love with someone utterly off-limits. My own “spare” character, Samantha, owes her spitfire attitude — and her forbidden love story — to Princess Margaret.

Another of my characters, Daphne Deighton, came from the unflattering tabloid coverage of Kate Middleton. I remember how viciously the press attacked her for, ostensibly, setting out to ensnare their beloved prince. (I was particularly astounded by the nickname “the wisteria sisters,” given to Kate and Pippa [Middleton] by the press because “they were decorative, fragrant, and had a ferocious ability to climb.”) When I began working on American Royals, I knew at once that I needed that a character who was truly like that — a beautiful young woman who traded on her looks to social climb all the way to the top.”

With a former American actress now a real-life duchess, did that influence the story?
“I actually started working on the concept for American Royals years ago, before Meghan [Markle] and [Prince] Harry had even met! But Meghan’s story ended up impacting the book — particularly because I already had a similar character, who begins a secret relationship with the prince only to find it exposed to the media.

Unfortunately, in this case I did pull directly from real life. I’m sad to say that the hateful online comments I included in American Royals are all real online comments, which I pulled from the YouTube engagement video of Harry and Meghan. Even as a writer, whose job is literally to invent things, I don’t think I could have come up with such sheer ugliness on my own.”

Are there any events that have happened to the British royals that influenced any parts of the story?
“In American Royals, I inevitably drew from the world of the British royals in countless ways — after all, there’s no better template for what a modern and glamorous monarchy should look like. But I’ve tried to put my own, American spin on things. For instance, the Washington Palace only serves lemonade at its garden parties, not tea (which is considered unpatriotic and British!), and my royals spend their holidays skiing at Telluride instead of Klosters.

My most significant borrowing was probably Princess Beatrice’s romance, which is loosely inspired by the Duke of Windsor and Wallis Simpson. Like her real-life counterpart, Beatrice falls for someone considered unsuitable for the heir to the throne — and must choose between obeying her duty and following her heart.” 

Do you see this book being turned into a movie or TV series? And if you do, is there anyone you already have in mind to play certain characters?
“I would be absolutely thrilled if American Royals became a movie or TV series! My west-coast agent has been pitching the concept to screenwriters, so I’m hopeful that something might come of it.

I could see Belle Shouse playing Daphne; I think she’d capture both her ruthlessness and her surprising vulnerability. Bianco Santos is so talented; I’d love to see her as Nina. I adore Cole Sprouse on Riverdale, and think he’d be a wonderful Ethan. As for Samantha, Beatrice, and Jeff… I wouldn’t dare try to cast royalty!”

The novel has a cliffhanger ending, will there be a sequel?
“I’m currently hard at work on the sequel to American Royals! For some reason I still don’t understand, sequels should be easier than the first book, but they never are. I know the characters better, so I have less initial groundwork, but I always find the plot much trickier in a second book.”

Any final thoughts you can share on American Royals?
American Royals is set at a time of transition, when the law has only just changed to let a woman inherit the throne over her younger brother. (This only recently happened in the UK, with the Act of Succession to the Crown in 2013.) The novel follows the challenges faced by Princess Beatrice, as she prepares for a role that for centuries has been occupied by men.

In this, I was influenced by an article I read about Meghan Markle. It argued that Meghan hadn’t actively chosen to be an icon for women of colour — but now that it’s happened, she has a responsibility toward all the young women looking up to her.

That mentality made its way into my character, Beatrice. She never asked to be a symbol for feminism; yet like it or not, she is one. It’s a heavy responsibility for one young woman. Added to her sense of duty — and her ordinary human desires — and Beatrice becomes so much conflicted and complicated than she seems in public. As all the real-life royals undoubtedly are!”

American Royals is published by Penguin Books and is out now.

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A brief history of London Fashion Week

September 12, 2019 | News | No Comments

Each of the “Big Four” fashion capitals exudes a very particular mood, from Milan’s extravagance and sex appeal to Paris’s refined craftsmanship. And when it comes to London, it’s all about fearless imagination, with designers who specialise in tongue-in-cheek rebellion, outrageous displays and the blurring of the lines between art and commerce. Or so the common narrative goes. Of course, none of these cities – which host innumerable designers during their twice-yearly fashion week stints – fit neatly into the categories ascribed to them; the reality is much more sprawling.

However, there does seem to be something playful and daring about London’s fashion history. From the Swinging Sixties, typified by Mary Quant, Ossie Clark and Barbara Hulanicki’s Biba, through to Vivienne Westwood’s punk provocations and Alexander McQueen’s dark and dramatic visions, London has a long legacy of producing extraordinary design. It also has the youngest fashion week among its style city brethren, only officially starting some 35 years ago.

The beginnings of London Fashion Week 

Various people have laid claim to setting the groundwork for LFW, including fashion PR Percy Savage. A gregarious figure who’d previously helped elevate the profiles of Lanvin and Yves Saint Laurent in Paris before moving to London in 1974, the Australian-born Savage staged his first London show, “The New Wave”, at The Ritz , which he soon followed with the “London Collections”,  featuring designers such as Zandra Rhodes and Bruce Oldfield, with Princess Margaret and Bianca Jagger front row. 

However, it was in the following decade that London Fashion Week as we know it today was born, with the creation of the British Fashion Council (BFC) in 1983, followed by the first official London Fashion Week in 1984. That same year saw the inaugural Designer of the Year award. The accolade was won by Katharine Hamnett (above), who later caused a stir during her infamous meeting with Margaret Thatcher when she wore a T-shirt emblazoned with the anti-nuclear message “58% Don’t Want Pershing”. Hamnett got the result she wanted with Thatcher apparently squawking like a chicken and photographers capturing the moment.

The first location for LFW was a car park. The Commonwealth Institute’s car park in Kensington, to be precise. Over the rest of the 1980s both this venue and Kensington Olympia would host designers from Ghost, to Betty Jackson, to Jasper Conran, to a young John Galliano (Kate Moss making her catwalk debut aged 15 at his 1989 show). London’s fashion scene at that time was hugely influenced by clubs, counterculture and forward-thinking design. Cult labels like BodyMap, with its distinctive shapes and use of diverse models, paved the way for much-needed changes in the industry, which even today some brands have been slow to instate. The establishment, however, embraced the scene, with Princess Diana (above) holding a reception for various designers at Lancaster House in 1985, and often wearing British designers both at home and abroad.

1990s boom and bust

The 1990s proved to be a tricky decade for London Fashion Week. Economic downturn and waning interest saw the event reduced to a small number of designers showing at The Ritz in 1992. However, it was also a time that facilitated the emergence of names including Alexander McQueen and Stella McCartney, who put on their first shows in 1992 and 1995 respectively. For the latter, hers was unlike any normal graduate collection, with McCartney enlisting supermodel friends Kate Moss (above), Yasmin Le Bon and Naomi Campbell to walk for her. 

In 1993 Campbell also featured in a particularly memorable LFW moment when she took to the catwalk topless for Philip Treacy. It was the same year that, across the Channel, she tumbled over in British export Vivienne Westwood’s vertiginous blue platforms. 1993 also saw the establishment of the BFC’s NEWGEN scheme, supporting and nurturing emerging designers. Then in 1994 it was time for another venue change, with most of the shows moving to the grounds of the Natural History Museum. And even though London lost some of its key talents – McQueen heading off to New York in the late 1990s and various others headhunted by French design houses in the early 2000s – plenty more brands flourished, including Matthew Williamson, John Rocha and Julien Macdonald, who was one of several designers to capitalise on the public’s love of the Spice Girls by sending Mel B sashaying down his catwalk in glittering pink in 1999.

Onwards and upwards

With the arrival of a new millennium, Hussein Chalayan – already well-loved for his avant-garde approach to cladding the body – put on a show in which the background furniture was transformed into wearable attire. It culminated in the incredible sight of a model stepping into the centre of a coffee table that then concertinaed up into a triangular skirt. And, like those concentric rings of wood expanding upwards, the following decade marked an expansive and exciting time for new designers. From Christopher Kane’s neon-bright debut (above) and Gareth Pugh’s gothic, angular garments to a whole host of other new names including Jonathan Saunders, Erdem Moralioglu, Mary Katrantzou and Roksanda Ilincic, London’s upcoming generation of talented garment makers secured its reputation afresh. 

And to top it all, in 2009 heritage brand Burberry returned from Milan to home soil, live-streaming its show to an eager online audience the following February. Other designers returning to London in 2009 included Matthew Williamson, Paul Smith and Luella, and it was also the first year that Somerset House hosted LFW, with shows among its handsome buildings and heels clacking over its courtyard cobbles. The move coincided with the rise of street style, with a handful of roving photographers quickly becoming an ever-expanding gaggle over the following years. 

LFW has had two more venue changes since then: first a short stint at another car park, this time in Soho’s Brewer Street, before settling at The Store Studios on The Strand. However, in line with other fashion capitals, in recent years more and more shows have taken place off-site, with venues ranging from Tate Modern to the Royal Courts of Justice, to custom sites like Burberry’s Makers House in 2016. And London’s prodigious talent continues to flourish, with Molly Goddard’s tulle and shirring, Matty Bovan’s imaginative flights (above) and Wales Bonner’s intelligent tailoring among the current crop of designers making sure LFW remains a fresh experience every year. 

London-based fashion brand Cos has become a favourite of Australians, thanks to their modern, considered, flattering garments. Cos clothes walk a beautiful line between form and function, incorporating useful pieces you can wear everyday.

The company has successful stores in Sydney, Melbourne, Perth and Brisbane. The latest addition to the Cos family is an elegant boutique in the nation’s capital, Canberra.

Located downtown in the Canberra Centre shopping precinct, the new store has all the clean lines we’ve come to expect from Cos – but it has also been sensitively designed to preserve the building’s Modernist 1960s features, like parquetry, lighting and curved glass on the façade (pictured above).

Locally quarried pink sandstone also features in the façade and display areas (pictured above and below), in a colour inspired by the distinctive native flora of the Canberra region.

“When we create new stores, we look to incorporate local elements into the design,” says Marie Honda, managing director of the Cos Canberra store. “Attention to detail is key for us in everything we do, and this is something we believe in throughout the brand. We look forward to welcoming our Canberran customers and hope that they enjoy the new store space.”

The Canberra Cos store’s launch party was attended by the team from Design Festival Canberra, local ceramicists, stylists, photographers and media.

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On September 1st, Hurricane Dorian, a Category 5 behemoth, having skipped Barbados and cut just west of the Lesser Antilles, the chain of islands in the Eastern Caribbean that, two years ago, was hit by Hurricane Irma, another Category Five storm. Dorian then veered north, passing between Puerto Rico and the Virgin Islands, before heading toward the two northernmost islands in the Bahamas: Abaco and Grand Bahama. As the storm made landfall, the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Association declared it “extremely dangerous.” Dorian had grown massive and stalled over the eastern portion of Grand Bahama Island, moving at just one mile per hour over the course of thirty-six hours. As it hovered, winds peaked at a hundred and eighty-five miles per hour. “Dorian’s fury,” as the N.O.A.A. described it, left in its wake hills of debris and a massive oil spill. Communities were displaced, twenty-five hundred people remain missing, and at least fifty died. Sand and debris muddied the clear, turquoise waters of the Atlantic Ocean.

During the storm and then after, pleas for rescue appeared on Facebook and Instagram. When the eye of the storm passed over Abaco, an island of about seventeen thousand people with a large population of undocumented Haitian migrants, residents posted images of their countrymen using small boats and Jet Skis to rescue neighbors. Based on the images appearing online, it seemed as if more rescues were being carried out by Bahamian civilians than by government officials. A video went viral of a man navigating a small motorboat through the murky waters of Freeport, Grand Bahama’s largest city. He discovered a family who had waited out the storm in their attic. As he approached, a man hollered a warning out of the attic window and helped him steer around a submerged vehicle. He then loaded the entire family on his small boat and sped away, likely saving their lives.

As residents posted from the islands, Bahamian expatriates were using social media to request information about the safety and location of their friends and family. Appeals for water and relief supplies began surfacing, too. Instagram stories advertised the locations of the Bahamian consulates in major cities across the United States. Other posts called for donations to aid survivors. Mykah Smith, a twenty-five-year-old Bahamian yogini with fifty-six hundred Instagram followers, posted a call for donations to help survivors.

“My Bahamaland❤️ This hurricane has ravaged us. It has claimed lives, the youngest victim only 7 years old. Homes gone forever and countless people missing,” she wrote. “If you are an influencer please use you platform to help. We are more than a tourist destination and pretty beaches. We are people who love our country and have hope in our future.” Smith, who lives in Nassau, the capital of the seven-hundred-island nation, then gave instructions for how to donate. “Prayers and thoughts are great but people have lost everything and donations are needed!” she wrote. “Please see the link in my bio to donate and check my story for the needed supplies and where you can take them.”

Smith, who is also the head of a recycling nonprofit, told me that the posts were her way of getting the world to engage with the calamity. “Basically, with what I shared, I was using the little social-media influence that I do have to try and garner support for us, and spread the word, because a lot of people didn’t even know what was going on,” she said.

Smith has changed the link on her Instagram profile to a listing of approved Dorian aid groups, which includes a Bahamian nonprofit called the HeadKnowles Foundation. The organization was originally founded by Lia Head-Rigby and Gina Knowles as a Facebook group that resembled Angie’s List, where members posted recommendations for goods and service providers in the Bahamas such as caterers or masons. Eventually, HeadKnowles grew into a large network of small-business owners throughout the Bahamas. In 2015, after Hurricane Joaquin hit the country, the organization began collecting financial donations through crowdfunding and received so many supplies that they took over a furniture warehouse for a month.

“We had an assembly line organizing things into boxes; we had people weighing so that we would know which plane is coming,” Rhondi Treco, the thirty-eight-year-old associate director of HeadKnowles, said in a phone interview this week, where she sounded exhausted, and, at times, was on the brink of tears. “We would have people donate planes.” Treco told me that someone donated a DC-8 jet, an aircraft that can hold about a hundred thousand pounds worth of relief supplies.

Joaquin was a Category 4 storm that ravaged smaller islands in the southern Bahamas, including San Salvador and Rum Cay. Treco oversaw the delivery of aid to the islands and coördinated closely with local government administrators to assess exactly what was needed. “They supplied the needs of each of the individual islands based on their demographics, so we didn’t load the islands up with additional junk,” Treco said. “That was very important in our process, and we did that for quite some time, so that’s what built our reputation as a hurricane-relief organization in the Bahamas.”

In the years since Joaquin struck, HeadKnowles has raised at least seven million dollars through GoFundMe for hurricane relief projects. This year, the group hoped to raise a million dollars, but after seeing aerial footage of the damage from Dorian, the organization increased its goal to ten million dollars. In the past ten days, HeadKnowles has raised 1.2 million dollars alone.

In the aftermath of Dorian, the Bahamian government has been criticized for its handling of recovery efforts. Hubert Minnis, the Prime Minister, has been accused of not responding quickly enough and being slow to accept international aid. The government responded. “We are doing everything we can to move as effectively and as efficiently as possible,” said a spokesperson for the Bahamas’ National Emergency Management Agency. “We’re dealing with a disaster.”

Across the West Indies, citizens have complained in recent years of a lack of government preparedness for hurricane seasons. In 2017, Hurricane Irma slammed into the Lesser Antilles, and residents there carried out impromptu rescues after government officials were slow to act. Two weeks later, Hurricane Maria, a Category 5 storm, hit the island of Dominica, where the government had prepared only for a Category 3 storm. International aid organizations have also been accused of using hurricanes to solicit donations and then failing to distribute money to the people who need it. A ProPublica and NPR investigation, from 2014, revealed that the American Red Cross reassigned emergency vehicles from an active disaster scene to a press conference and “botched key elements of its mission.” (Red Cross officials defended the organization’s performance and denied that the group had made decisions based on public-relations motives.)

With government officials and aid groups struggling to respond to massive storms, hurricane victims are turning to social media. During and after Hurricane Irma, in 2017, Facebook was instrumental in search-and-rescue efforts in St. Maarten, where people posted urgent requests for generators, water, and diapers. Patrick A. Scannell, a doctor and health scientist in St. Maarten, founded a group called Hurricane Disaster Contact & Aid – SXM, where people posted both missing-persons reports and calls for donations. The group received so many postings that it created a separate “Make St. Maarten Great Again (Donation)” page. “We decided pretty early along that those two purposes in that one group was getting in the way of rescuing missing people, so we decided to split it into two different groups,” Scannell told me in a telephone interview.

He said that he was amazed by how effective Facebook could be in the immediate aftermath of a natural disaster. After the 2015 earthquakes in Nepal, he said, people used Facebook messenger to coördinate searches for loved ones who were potentially buried in the rubble. After Irma hit St. Maarten, he created Facebook albums that organized missing people by neighborhood. Since Dorian made landfall, a Facebook group called Dorian People Search Bahamas, accumulated nearly thirteen thousand members. A member posted a plea for information about whether a family in Abaco had survived the storm, naming each member. “Please say if you have seen them,” the person wrote. “Praying for their safety and the safety of all people trapped in this nightmare.” Twenty minutes later, another user replied, writing, “I saw Norma she is fine. I have heard Donnie is accounted for and alive.” Hundreds of similar threads appeared on Facebook.

On the island of Grand Bahama, Dorian ripped the roof off of an oil refinery, causing oil to spill into the water tables of the eastern part of the island. Twitter played an instrumental role in the rescue of people trapped in their homes, many of which lacked potable water. Kimberly Mullings, a broadcast journalist living in Freeport, said that she used Twitter to guide search and rescue missions. “I was most useful inside, reading Twitter and then coördinating people outside on Jet Skis,” she said. So much debris filled the flood waters that only personal watercraft were small and agile enough to conduct rescues. “You couldn’t fight Category 5 winds,” Shawn Gabrielle Gomez, a twenty-five-year-old journalist and content producer at a Bahamian agency called Social Light Media told me. When the storm downgraded, that was the only chance.” Gomez, who has a large social-media following, worked with Mullings and retweeted rescue requests from survivors. She told me that in the Bahamas, Twitter is not used as much as Instagram and Facebook, but it proved vital after the storm. “I do social-media management, and I never thought in a million years we would use Twitter to save lives,” Gomez said.

Other platforms had bureaucratic limitations. Treco, the associate director of HeadKnowles, told me that she was unable to talk to a person at GoFundMe by phone to negotiate the fees that the platform imposed on donations. As my colleague Nathan Heller wrote in the magazine, in June, GoFundMe had raised more than five billion in donations as of 2017, but crowdfunding efforts can create perverse online incentives, in which the most heartrending story wins. Survivors of Dorian, though, hailed the utility of social media. They said that it facilitated grassroots rescue and aid efforts, cut bureaucratic red tape, and saved lives. It also exposed the shortcomings of post-colonial governments, showcased how citizens saved each other after the storm, and facilitated donations to aid groups. Mykah Smith, the Bahamian yogini, said that she hopes that expatriates and tourists will “see the Bahamas as more than just a tourist destination and see that we’re a people that love our country.” She added, “If you can support us in good times, come and support our country and help us when we need it.”