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Image Credits: François Goizé

Just last week, Cartier threw an event fit for royalty to celebrate the launch of its new high jewellery collection, Magnitude. Actresses Claire Foy, Letitia Wright, Ella Balinska and Lily Collins were in attendance for this ultra-exclusive affair. 

Guests dazzled in jaw-dropping gowns for the cocktail attire dress code at London’s 180 The Strand, an exciting location to present the collection. The event continued at Shoreditch Town Hall for the after party, where guests were treated to a performance by American singer-songwriter, Beth Ditto, before dancing the night away to spins by DJs Paul Sevigny and Mimi Xu. 

The latest high jewelry collection, Magnitude, represents Cartier’s timelessness while offering a new collision of materials and another example of the brand’s ability to reinvent itself, yet stay true to its history. For more, take a sneak peek inside the launch, below. 

Above: Ella Balinska, Letitia Wright, Lily Collins 

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Claire Foy

Kimberley Anne Woltemas

Letitia Wright

Peter Dundas, Bianca Brandolini, Evangello Bousis, Alexia Niedzielski

Elizabeth von Guttman

Iris Law

Amelia Windsor

Doina Ciobanu

Karen Wazen

Caroline Issa

Diana Silver

Claire Foy, Cyrille Vigneron, Lily Collins

Beth Ditto

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Fifty years ago this year, the police waged a violent raid on the Greenwich Village gay bar the Stonewall Inn. Such attacks happened all too frequently, but this time the LGBTQ+ community fought back harder than ever before – marking what is widely considered the birth of the gay rights movement. A young Englishman by the name of Ernest Hole was in New York at the time and remembers a “strange” but optimistic atmosphere. “If gays and transsexuals, tired of harassment, could confront the police, then anything was possible,” he says. During his six-month stint in the city, he frequented the now defunct Oscar Wilde Bookshop – the first bookstore devoted to gay and lesbian authors in America – and befriended the owner Craig Rodwell.

Hole was so inspired by the shop that on his return to London, he decided to open a similar establishment in Bloomsbury. Gay’s The Word, which takes its name from the Ivor Novello musical, turned 40 this year making it one of the oldest gay book stores in Europe; it remains the only gay bookstore in England. Such spaces are becoming increasingly rare (London has lost more than 50 per cent of its LGBTQ+ venues in the past decade), but are more important than ever. Why? As Hole puts it: “Gay bookstores aren’t places that just sell gay books, they are a gay place open to all and part of the community, a place to be proud of.” They are also often places of great cultural significance – Rodwell was a one-time lover of Harvey Milk, who would later become the first openly gay politician elected to public office in California, and he is said to have radically influenced Milk’s politics. And it was within the walls of Oscar Wilde Bookshop that the Gay Liberation Front mapped out the inaugural NYC Pride march in 1970.

As for what’s on the shelves, LGBTQ+ literature is a space in itself. The words on the page provide a sense of discovery, inspiration, togetherness and hope. On that note, asked nine figureheads of the LGBTQ+ community to discuss the queer literature that has played a pivotal role in their lives.

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Laverne Cox

In 2014 the star became the first transgender person to be nominated for an Emmy Award and appear on the cover of magazine. Since then the Alabama-born actress has continued to break down barriers on all fronts, citing writer, feminist and civil rights activist Audre Lorde’s writing on intersectionality as a major influence in her campaign for better representation.

“Feminism, for me personally, has always been intersectional because I discovered it through black women authors like bell hooks and black lesbian and queer authors like Audre Lorde. That’s what I love about Lorde’s collection of essays, – it talks about queerness in relationship to feminist identity and race. It taught me to think about my position in the LGBTQ+ community as not being divorced from my blackness, my womanhood and all other aspects of who I am.

“There’s one particular essay in that I keep returning to, in which Lorde writes: ‘Those of us who stand outside the circle of this society’s definition of acceptable women; those of us who have been forged in the crucibles of difference – those of us who are poor, who are lesbians, who are black, who are older – know that survival is not an academic skill. It is learning how to take our differences and make them strengths. For the master’s tools will never dismantle the master’s house. They may allow us temporarily to beat him at his own game, but they will never enable us to bring about genuine change.’

“Although she doesn’t mention trans women, this pride month, after Zoe Spears became the 10th trans woman reported murdered in the US this year, Lorde’s essay serves as a reminder that trans women still stand outside of what is considered to be an ‘acceptable woman’ and that we need protection.

“When, in 1979, Lorde delivered this essay as a speech at a feminist conference held in honour of the 30th anniversary of Simone de Beauvoir’s book , she was urging the women in the audience to interrogate their own racism and homophobia. Without addressing our internal biases (conscious or unconscious) in doing liberation work, we are attempting to use the master’s tools. That’s not liberation. Lorde is calling for the use of new tools to build paradigm shifting houses, which can become homes where we are all welcome.”

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Jeremy O. Harris

Before the 30 year old had even graduated from his final year at the Yale School of Drama this year, he had two critically acclaimed plays ( and ) showing in quick succession off Broadway and a film – , starring Riley Keough – in production. Oh, and there was a lead role in a video campaign for Gucci too. Here the precocious American playwright and actor describes a chance encounter with fellow writer Robert O’Hara in an elevator.

“ is an episodic play about the world (both internal and external) of a black gay writer and his bootycandy (his mother’s childhood euphemism for his penis). It is vaguely autobiographical. It was one of the first uproarious and audacious pieces of theatre about the life and times of a queer black man I’d encountered. From its title to its subject and its energy, it represented where black gay theatre could go.

“I encountered it in 2014 during its first run at the Playwright’s Horizons theatre after running into the author and director Robert O’Hara in an elevator. After expressing my sadness that the show was sold out, he reached into his pocket and handed me a ticket and told me not to be late. I ended up seeing the play three more times. The fact of its existence makes me inspired because for so long I didn’t see myself – not just my identity but my sensibility – represented in the theatre. So I didn’t think I belonged. Post I knew I had a chance to do this and it became a formative moment for me.

“In a time when our lives are desperately on the line across the world, I think that radical expression can feel difficult or out of our reach. Then we get tepid and polite queer work. This work dares to choke an audience and then dares them to like that sensation. We need more of that.”

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Mj Rodriguez

Known for her role as Blanca Rodriguez-Evangelista in the agenda-setting FX series , the New Jersey native is among the largest cast of transgender actors in TV history. The work of American playwright Larry Kramer has been central to her development personally, as well as on screen and stage, she says.

“When I was 17 I went to see Larry Kramer’s play and after that I thought, ‘Man I’ve got to get inside this man’s brain.’ I researched his work and came across this article he wrote In the 59th issue of (March 1983) titled . It spilled the whole truth about individuals dying from AIDS and caused a lot of controversy at the time.

“I love the way he wrote it so eloquently and intelligently. He also gave a lot of hard facts and statistics to support his argument on what needed to be done. The opening line reads: ‘If this article doesn’t scare the shit out of you, we’re in real trouble.’ It’s the ultimate call to action.

“‘There are now 1,112 cases of serious Acquired Immune Deficiency Syndrome,’ he went on. ‘When we first became worried, there were only 41.’ For him to have the numbers like he did shows how much work he was doing in the community. I was in when I first read it was so important to that role but more than that it’s informed the activism I do now on reducing the stigma and raising awareness around HIV and AIDS. I never imagined I would run into an essay like that and I never thought my whole life would be influenced by one man.

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Beth Ditto

The former Gossip frontwoman – muse to Jean Paul Gaultier and designer of her own eponymous clothing line – is a prominent supporter of LGBTQ+ rights and has spoken candidly about her tough upbringing in Arkansas, including abuse at the hands of her uncle, which long went unpunished. Ditto says Dorothy Allison’s autobiographical novel helped her reconcile these early traumas and restore her relationship with her own mother.

“Queer author Dorothy Allison’s is a story that I feel is parallel in many ways to my own. It’s set in South Carolina and told from the perspective of a 12 year old girl called ‘Bone’ Boatwright, whose mother gave birth to her when she was very young and so she doesn’t have the life experience to bring up a child yet – she doesn’t know how to relate to her own daughter. Bone’s biological father dies and her mother remarries, to a man that turns out to be abusive towards Bone. Even though the mother is made aware of the abuse, and repeatedly leaves her husband, she keeps going back to him. Throughout the book, the daughter tries to shed light on why her mother continues to make these mistakes, and work out how she won’t make these mistakes herself. It’s a really hard but beautiful story of forgiveness and putting into perspective the struggles of women, specifically Southern and rural women.

“I was angry at my own mum for so long, now I realise she just made poor choices and it brought us to where we are today. It made me realise how important choices are in life. Happy people make happier children. Happier children make better decisions. I’ve read twice now and I think it’s such a queer narrative because we love to talk about what we can do to not be our parents or make the same mistakes again. We look at the world think ‘what can we can do to make it better?’”

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Troye Sivan

Through his songs, the Australian teen vlogger turned pop star has brought the everyday experiences of young gay men into the mainstream, amassing some 10.5 million Instagram followers along the way. The 24 year old describes reading Hanya Yanagihara’s novel as a life-affirming experience.

“ by Hanya Yanagihara is one of my favourite books ever. It tore my heart out with its pain, but also showed me how powerful love can be. The story is about four men moving to New York to live their lives – delving into their pasts, futures and their relationships with each other. I read it for the first time only a few weeks ago after my manager gave it to me, and I haven’t stopped thinking about it since. My boyfriend [the model Jacob Bixenman] is about three quarters of the way through it now. Reading the stories of maturing LGBTQ+ relationships is important to me. I feel that’s one area of representation we could work on a little. The whole world should read because – warning – although it’s sad and troubling, it will leave you feeling changed.”

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Isaac Julien

The Turner Prize-nominated British artist and filmmaker is currently the subject of two solo exhibitions at the Victoria Miro Gallery (until 27 July) and Tate Britain (until 17 November) in London. Essex Hemphill’s book of poetry formed the basis of his film (and subject of his Tate Britain show) – an exploration of black queer desire.

“ is my favourite book because it contains within its compendium structure ‘Conditions’, which existed as a self-published, monograph-edition book by Essex Hemphill. It is about black gay subjectivity and hopes of finding love during the height of the AIDS epidemic.

“I first heard ‘Conditions’ read by Hemphill himself in Los Angeles in 1986. I must have read it over a thousand times since… there is always something new and fresh that emerges. It influenced the making of (1989) and became a primary text for the film, in which authors performed poems live, allowing me to create images, which became a vital source of inspiration throughout my career.

“It embodies a voice that has become less heard in our culture nowadays and it is provocative, like our fight for equality must be. The whole world should read this work to ensure the next generation knows its history.”

Image credit: Supplied

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Holland

Although Holland’s career seems to have skyrocketed overnight, literally – his debut single received over a million views on YouTube in less than 24 hours – as K-pop’s first openly gay idol, the odds have been stacked against him. The 23 year old describes LGBTQ+ issues in South Korea as “very taboo”, making it hard to get his music in the public domain. He credits André Aciman’s with having helped him come to terms with his sexuality.

“Reading André Aciman’s helped me look inside myself and overcome feelings of shame. I acted on desires I had previously hidden and was finally honest with myself. In my own words the story is about the protagonist and narrator, Elio Perlman, finding his identity, recognising he is attracted to another man and his family embracing him for who is. Like many Koreans, I first came across the work as a movie. I liked the actors, music and visuals, and so felt compelled to read the book. There are many passages that have stayed with me, but the part where Elio says: ‘We had the stars, you and I. And this is given once only,’ is especially powerful. The words made me fall in love and feel jealousy and grief. As a whole the book expresses relationships without a moment for stereotypes or cliché.”

Image credit: Mikal Evans

Matthew Michael Lopez

by E.M. Forster is a pillar of the American playwright’s bookshelf – it laid the foundations for his four-time Olivier Award-winning play , an exploration of gay men’s lives in recent history opening on Broadway in the autumn. But when it comes to literature, his greatest love is by James Baldwin, which he says “served as the touchstone to my earlier play, ”.

“The obvious choice from James Baldwin’s work might be , which is a much more explicitly gay novel, but to me there is no greater queer novel than . It’s one of the first truly intersectional novels, published decades before the term was even coined.  

“The book follows a group of friends, lovers and strangers in the aftermath of the death of a character we’re initially led to believe is the novel’s protagonist. His death sets these people (his sister, his friends, his former lovers – both male and female) on a collision course with each other in a New York that is far less integrated that it pretends to be.

“Throughout the novel, Baldwin pairs his disparate characters off – whether it’s romantically, sexually, creatively or through tenuous friendships. Men and women, black and white, they all begin to populate each other’s narratives (and each other’s beds) as they hold more and more sway over each other’s destinies. Baldwin uses the crucible of the bedroom to tie these people together as if to say, ‘We are all cooking in the same stew, baby. Might as well try and make it taste like something.’ It’s truly sexy as fuck.

“As a work of literature, it teems with thrilling, almost electric language and complex, vibrant characters. It is an alternative view of a fabled time in a vanished city. It is an angry book, at times even a ferocious one. But above all, it is a deeply compassionate book. You finish it feeling renewed, transformed, washed clean. The last paragraph leading to the final image is one that will stay with me forever. It’s rare that a book has the ability to send you out into the world with the perfectly turned final phrase. Also, the fact that it was published in 1962 is mind-blowing. He writes the American future by simply writing the world as he experienced it. It explodes the myth that Stonewall was the beginning of our visibility.”

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Cynthia Nixon

The star may not have won her bid to become Governer of her hometown of New York last year, but it was perhaps the loudest demonstration of her mettle as a true leader to date. For more than two decades, she has been a consistent advocate for public education and campaigned for LGBTQ+ rights. Her fire was “fuelled”, she says, by the work of playwright Tony Kushner.

“I was in the original production of in 1993 and performed it for over a year, so it’s a work of art that has really lived in me. There were a series of performances I remember particularly vividly that June during Pride 1993 when the audience was almost exclusively LGBTQ+. It was like performing overseas in the United Service Organizations during wartime – the audience knew you were performing specifically for them.

“One of the great things about the play is it puts that terrible moment in LGBTQ+ history – the 1980s AIDS crisis – into context in American history and chronicles our ongoing fight from the left for a more progressive world. There are Mormon characters and Jewish characters, and, as much as it is about a gay identity, the play is also about the struggle and the effects – positive but mostly negative – religion can have on us: the fear of God, the fear of being damned and the power that holds, especially when you’re trying to come out to the world. It essentially dares to ask whether we are going to evolve or regress as a culture.”

“In the final scenes, the central character, Prior Walter, says: ‘We won’t die secret deaths anymore, we will be citizens.’ showed people living with and dying from AIDS as prophets. The crisis added fuel to the fire that is our ongoing fight for equality and gave us a sense of tremendous urgency. The gay community was dying, it felt like AIDS was trying to quietly eradicate us and society saw us as expendable, so in an act of survival we came screaming out of the closet in droves.

“In the last few years, the play has gained even more personal significance for me since my transgender son Sam, who is an actor, playwright and director, became a huge fan of it. Now he knows the work inside out, too – all seven hours of it. I think his dream is to stage it himself one day.”

Fashion designer Carla Zampatti’s signature aesthetic — an elegant balance between refined beauty and streamlined function — is most apparent in her home in Sydney’s Woollahra, an exquisitely secluded four-bedroom Italianate-style building surrounded by a lush garden scattered with sculptures.

In the back of the house, Amalfi chaise lounge from Janus Et Cie.

Zampatti’s intuitive play on Italian romance and Australian pragmatism feels intrinsic to the award-winning designer’s world, from how she chooses to live to who she is as a person. She’s svelte, sophisticated and characteristically chic in her tinted black glasses and trademark blonde bob, but with an endearing warmth and underlying strength of character that may perhaps stem from her country upbringing and a backstory that can only be described as pioneering.

Carla Zampatti at the entrance hallway of her Sydney harbourside home. Zampatti wears black crepe jumpsuit from Carla Zampatti.

The woman sometimes referred to as ‘the Coco Chanel of Australia’ grew up on a farm in postwar Italy, and was nine when she moved with her family to a small town in Western Australia. But it was in Sydney in the 1970s where she rose to become one of the country’s most respected names in the Australian fashion industry. Here, she chats to Vogue Living about her heritage and her beloved home.

In the entrance, sculpture by Elisabeth Frink.

My love of design comes from Italy. Architecture in Italy is just magnificent — very minimalist but beautiful and solid. I love stone. I love things that are big and bold. It’s my fashion taste as well — simple, understated and strong. You can’t go wrong.

The central double-height stairwell with original windows.

If you grow up in Italy you’re surrounded by beauty. It’s part of your DNA. In Italy we lived in a beautiful old house: four storeys with stables in the basement, a first floor, bedrooms on the second floor and an attic. I always loved the space and the atmosphere of it.

The front of the house.

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My family moved to Australia for the same reasons as any other migrants at that time. My father didn’t want his children growing up in postwar Italy. He thought we wouldn’t have any opportunity there, as Italy was very poor [then]. We lived in the countryside, so we were never hungry or wanting, but my brothers were teenagers and they would not have been able to find work. I loved it [here] from day one. It was so different and unique and special.

Zampatti with her daughters, Allegra Spender (left) and Bianca Spender; Zampatti wears black crepe jumpsuit and Allegra Spender wears blush jumpsuit, both from Carla Zampatti; Bianca Spender wears silk floral, stripe and check dress from Bianca Spender; artwork by artist unknown.

I bought this house in 1975. It was after the Whitlam government came in and everything, particularly real estate, became very affordable. I heard about it through a friend who knew the lady who owned it, whose father had built it. He’d gone to a lot of trouble and did a lot of detailing, which I’m very grateful for. He was widely travelled and, interestingly enough, was in the textile industry. When he died, his daughter had a house already, so she didn’t really want to move.

In the living room, Poliform Airport sofa by Paola Navone; ash ceramic Chinese pot and Turkish Dagar pot from Water Tiger; Michael Verheyden Y vase (on table) and Tabou suede pouf from Ondene; vessels (on piano) by Dino Raccanello; plants from LuMu Interiors; Great Dane Manér Studio Arc floor light from David Jones; sculpture by Igor Mitoraj.

When I walked into the entrance hallway, I knew right away I wanted to have it. There was something about it — it was magic. The house was built around 1928 and I’ve hardly changed it. It’s in its original format except we’ve painted the floors white and we’ve changed the kitchen. But I’ve left all the bathrooms intact, [just] as they were in the late ’20s.

The whole house has a fluidity about it. It’s well thought through and has a natural flow. If you look at the floor plans, everything has a circular kind of element to it, even the garden and the drive.

In the living room, tapestry is one of a pair Zampatti found in a flea market in Italy.

I lived here with my family for over 10 years until 1987. Then we moved into my husband John [Spender]’s house. When John and I split, I moved back and it was in 2009 that I made the changes to the house. My children [son Alexander and daughters Bianca and Allegra] spent their early years here, and when I moved back they said they felt like this was their real home.

In the library/study, Pierre Jeanneret easy chair from Hacienda Ltd; Menu Troll vases from David Jones; plant from LuMu Interiors; Naga rattan basket (used as planter) from Water Tiger; artworks by Dorothy Thornhill.

To me the exterior feels Italian and the interiors are [16th-century Italian] Palladio in style. The round room in particular — what I call my winter room — with these wonderful windows and open fireplace is Palladio influenced. It’s my favourite room because it’s so intimate and cosy.

There’s nothing ultra-modern in my home. I like old furniture because it’s beautifully made. It’s heavy and it has a presence. I like traditional French or Italian designs.

Dino Raccanello is my architect. He’s a very old friend and lives between Lucca, Italy, and here in Sydney. He’s done quite a few of our retail stores and he has a lovely, clean, minimalist style. We understand each other and I trust his taste. I knew that the kitchen was too dark and dreary and we both agreed that it needed to extend outside, and now I use that outside area a lot. Whenever I go to buy something he says don’t, because you will overcrowd the space. When a space is overcrowded you don’t see the beautiful things in it.

In the kitchen, Great Dane Buch Elmotique stool and Serax Terres De Reves bowl from David Jones; artwork of Bianca Spender by Allegra Spender.

All nine of my grandchildren come over and use the pool. My oldest grandchild is 18 and the youngest is 2. On Sunday afternoons we have regular family gatherings and the main living room is their room. They tear it apart, bounce on the lounge, take off the cushions and play the piano. The adults escape to the round room or the kitchen and just let them go wild. They can’t really wreck anything because everything is so solid.

I adore my family. They are the centre of life. I’ve done some wonderful things [in my life] but having children, there’s just something magical about that. And my kids have been so good to me. In difficult times they’ve been there.

In the master bedroom with walk-in robe beyond, Society Limonta Rem quilt from Ondene.

In the original powder room, artworks by Catherine Fox.

In the original ensuite off the master bedroom; jacket from Carla Zampatti.

In the stairwell, artwork of Barry Humphries by Allegra Spender.

Visit: carlazampatti.com.au

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18th Jun 2019

The Duchess of Sussex may be on maternity leave from royal duties after giving birth to son, Archie Harrison Mountbatten-Windsor, on May 6, but that doesn’t mean we’re not going to hear from or see the actress-turned-duchess until she returns to royal duties reportedly in the UK autumn (Australia’s spring) this year.

Since Archie’s birth in May we’ve already seen the duchess, 37, a handful of times including, an official photocall days after Archie was born to introduce the newest member of the British royal family to the world, during The Queen’s birthday celebrations at the Trooping the Colour earlier this month, and on Instagram, where she shared a very sweet snap of Archie’s feet cradled in her hand on Mother’s Day.

During her maternity leave, the duchess appears to still be quietly working on her patronages, the causes she has been named responsible for on behalf of The Queen.

Late last week, animal welfare charity Mayhew released their annual review for 2018 and while it’s not a document that would usually garner wide readership, it’s become a must-read, after it was revealed that the duchess penned the review’s foreword. Raising awareness of this cause, even while she’s on maternity leave, is exactly why Markle is the ideal royal patron for Mayhew.

As for the foreword itself, it is basically an essay in which Markle shares her “joy” of being a rescue dog owner. “As a proud rescue dog owner, I know from personal experience the joy that adopting an animal into your home can bring,” Markle writes in the Mayhew review foreword.

“The choice to adopt a pet is a big decision that comes with much responsibility. It will undoubtedly change your life.” Markle pens, finishing with a call to action to get involved with Mayhew and pet adoption in any possible way.

Markle does indeed speak from experience and the heart. According to Vanity Fair, before Markle married a prince and moved to a castle in the UK, Markle had two rescue dogs — Guy and Bogart. Guy and Bogart lived with her in Toronto, where she was based while she filmed Suits. However, when the duchess moved to London to wed Prince Harry only Guy, a beagle, was able to make the trip (the dog is such a special part of the family, he even travelled in the car with The Queen to Windsor for Prince Harry and Meghan Markle’s May 2018 royal wedding). Bogart stayed behind in Toronto with a friend, as he was reportedly too old to make the transatlantic trip. 

Markle was rumoured to have been heartbroken over having to leave Bogart behind (she clearly loves being a rescue dog owner). However, she and Prince Harry have reportedly adopted a new dog to keep Guy company and round out their rescue dog-loving family.

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Irresponsible Ghost

You come into the kitchen to find dirty dishes piled everywhere. You thought you turned off the lights when you went to bed, but, when you wake up, they’re all still on. You try to dispute your alarmingly high electric bill by claiming that it’s your ghost’s fault, but you had this problem at your last place, and there’s no way it was haunted, too—right?

Self-Involved Hollywood Ghost

Whenever you leave your laptop out, your browser somehow ends up back on that same Rotten Tomatoes page. Communicate that you care by respecting your ghost’s extensive body of work and, just to be safe, play your ghost’s greatest films on repeat.

The Ghost of Your Ex

You went through a breakup in your kitchen months ago, and now, whenever you make breakfast, the stove mysteriously turns on. This definitely doesn’t mean that you left it on the night before, when you were drunk and tried to cook eggs. No, the ghost of Brian is haunting you for eternity.

Down-to-(Haunt)-Earth Stoner Ghost

If Tame Impala songs spontaneously start playing through your speakers, don’t panic. Put away the sage you bought to banish the ghost and try getting high with it instead. Transcend the ghost’s plane of existence, or just have some deep conversations about why fingers, like, even exist.

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Motherly Ghost

Every time you walk into the bathroom, there is writing on the mirror telling you to floss more. Braces are wildly expensive, and this ghost wants you to remember that, every single day.

The Ghost of Amelia Earhart

The channels on your transistor radio are always going haywire, and you didn’t even know that you had a transistor radio. It is unclear if you can still get NPR.

The Ghost of Christmas Past

Before you head out to your work Christmas party, the Ghost of Christmas Past will swing by and remind you not to get as drunk as you did last time, by showing you, in excruciating detail, how drunk you got last time. You will stay away from the punch bowl at all costs.

The Ghost of Your Math Teacher, Mrs. Shapiro

Each morning, you wake up in a cold sweat, having dreamed of a pop algebra quiz that you knew you’d fail. Luckily, Mrs. S. visits only once a year, when she knows you’ve been avoiding filing your taxes.

Party Ghost!!!

He is the best beer-pong partner you will ever have, and the worst wingman.

The Ghost of Your Former Self

You can never escape yourself.

Over the last several years, on Mt. Everest, veteran alpine guides have reported seeing an increasing number of human skeletons and frozen corpses. One guide named Gelje Sherpa told the Times that when he first summited, in 2008, he found three bodies, and during a recent season he found six. “They often haunt me,” he said. The bones and preserved bodies of climbers who didn’t make it to the summit, revealed as the peak’s glaciers recede, are, for some, more than enough evidence that warming temperatures are melting the Himalayan glaciers at an increasingly quick clip. A new study, published on Wednesday in the journal Science Advances, added a significant layer of proof, finding that, over the past forty years, the average rate that the Himalayas have lost ice has doubled. While the paper’s findings have dire consequences for the millions of people who live just below Himalayan glaciers, they are also vitally important in aiding officials and engineers tasked with planning for the region’s entire population of 1.6 billion people, all of whom rely on the rivers that these glaciers feed.

The study’s lead author, Joshua Maurer, a doctoral student in earth sciences at Columbia University, used recently declassified spy-satellite images from the nineteen-seventies to observe how the volume of the region’s largest glaciers has changed. Scientists had already documented the rate at which the Himalayas had lost ice mass in the course of the twenty-first century using more sophisticated satellite imagery. Maurer developed computer software that created three-dimensional images from the overlapping pictures, allowing him and his colleagues to digitally “walk” across the glaciers’ surfaces as they appeared in 1975. In the end, they found that the six hundred and fifty largest glaciers across India, China, Nepal, and Bhutan, which together represent fifty-five per cent of the region’s total ice volume, have lost the equivalent of a vertical foot and a half of ice each year this century. That’s roughly twice as much as what they lost from 1975 to 2000, when temperatures were, on average, 1.8 degrees Fahrenheit cooler. Previous studies that looked at melt since the seventies, like Maurer’s, found similar results, but with much less precision and over a smaller area. “The correlation we observed between rising air temperatures and acceleration of glacial melt really highlights how vulnerable these glaciers are to climate change,” Maurer told me by phone on Monday. “As temperatures continue to rise, ice loss is going to continue to accelerate.”

Other factors can affect the rate of glaciers’ retreat, such as black carbon, from nearby power plants, or changes in precipitation. But Maurer’s analysis found that warming temperatures seemed to be the factor that overwhelmed others. “With such a homogeneous pattern of ice loss over such a large region that’s also climatically complex, really the only climate driver that makes any sense is atmospheric warming,” he told me. To further test that interpretation, they compiled temperature data for the same timespan from weather stations all over the Himalayas, and ran the data through computer simulations. “We show that the amount of ice loss that we see falls right in the range of what we would expect if these measured air temperatures were the primary drivers of the ice loss. It’s just very good agreement.” If the emission of black carbon, or a decrease in precipitation, were the primary drivers of ice loss, he said, there would be a much more variable spatial pattern of ice loss, because those factors are much more localized.

Maurer’s study builds on an extensive body of research on Himalayan glaciers—sometimes called the Third Pole, for the amount of ice the mountains hold, a quarter of which has already disappeared as temperatures have become hotter in the last century. Scientists who study glaciers and climate change have generally approached the subject at much longer timescales, relying on excavated ice cores from ancient glaciers, which, in their frozen layers of ice and air bubbles, contain evidence of earth’s climate going back tens of thousands, even hundreds of thousands, of years. “Usually we’re using the geologic record globally to see how the cryosphere responded to the changing climate in the past,” Joerg Schaefer, a research professor at Columbia University’s Lamont-Doherty Earth Observatory and one of Maurer’s co-authors, said. “It always bothered me that, if you look at the geological record, glaciers look like they respond very coherently, as an army, to climate change. But then, if you look into the field of glaciology, where people look at daily, weekly, monthly changes, it really gets complicated, everything seems to be out of phase.”

Based on many other studies, the suspicion already had been that temperature is the main climate driver melting glaciers. “Of course, if it gets warmer, ice melts, we knew that,” Schaefer said. But he would have been happy if the study showed that melting is much more variable, and more strongly impacted by other factors. “We were obviously hoping that for the environment, and the livelihood of society, that it would be a more local pattern,” he said. “Instead, this means that just everywhere these glaciers will follow the temperature curve.” Schaefer added, “Of all the possibilities, that’s the worst result.”

A major report on the state of the Himalayas—“Hindu Kush Himalaya Assessment: Climate Change, Sustainability and People”—was published last February and projected that, even in the best-case scenario, if the world rapidly decarbonized and was carbon neutral by 2050, limiting global warming to 1.5 degrees Celsius, the Himalayas are very likely to lose a third of their total ice, partly because the peaks are warming at a faster rate than the global average. If things continue as they are now, they are likely to lose two-thirds of their total ice. For a region already plagued by poverty, inequality, and discrimination, that eventuality is catastrophic, and much of the report was an attempt to thoroughly examine all the effects that the glaciers’ retreat will have on agriculture, ecology, and energy, especially hydropower. Densely populated and quickly developing downstream areas in China, India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh are likely to face even more severe water crises than what they’ve already seen. The report also provides some solutions, including necessary coöperation between China, Nepal, and India on early-warning disaster systems for expected glacial-lake-outburst floods—a type of risk to which Maurer’s new study provides helpful clarifications.

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Scientists have long known about the trouble that rapidly increasing atmospheric greenhouse gases would bring. But they have, in the past, stumbled to properly communicate that trouble to the public—especially in complex climates like the world’s highest mountain range. In the 2007 Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change’s fourth climate assessment, some scientists made a bad error, predicting that all Himalayan glaciers would be gone by 2035. That has haunted the field ever since. Tobias Bolch, a glaciologist at the University of St. Andrews and one of the lead authors of February’s Hindu Kush Himalayan Assessment, was slightly unnerved by the new paper’s bold message. “I would have liked that the authors would have been more cautious with the main message—‘Glacier ice loss rates across the Himalayas have doubled over the past four decades’—as we do not want other false messages,” he said, recalling the I.P.C.C. error. Bolch noted that, although the evidence is clear that, over all, ice loss has accelerated significantly, there is some degree of uncertainty in the data as to whether this acceleration has fully doubled in speed.

Schaefer told me that people often ask him when the Himalayas are going to be ice-free. “It’s a little bit like asking, When are the Antarctic or Greenland ice sheets gonna be gone?” he said. (Greenland’s summer heat is already weeks ahead of average, breaking the record for such extensive melting of its ice sheet at an early date.) “They are interesting questions, but they are not that relevant for us. If the ice sheets are gone, we are toast anyway. We will be gone way before.” The relevant question, he continued, “is what is the societal impact of the doubling in speed of these Himalayan glaciers’ retreats. We know, of course, that it’s really bad, but at least now we have a study that gives us a decently robust point of view of what’s actually going to happen as the temperature rapidly increases.”

In 1984, an economics professor named William Lazonick joined the faculty at the Harvard Business School, just in time to witness a shift in economic thought. Lazonick, who is seventy-four, had grown up in Toronto and earned a Ph.D. in economics, at Harvard, in 1975. He specialized in economic development, focussing on the ways that companies make innovations in order to attain global dominance of their industries. When he started teaching, the prevailing view in business schools was that companies should take their earnings and reinvest them in their operations, in part by investing in the well-being of their workers. But the business school had recently hired a professor named Michael Jensen, who believed in a theory of corporate management holding that companies exist solely to deliver profits to their shareholders, and that managers should make decisions to maximize those profits at all times. The theory was gaining ground quickly. In 1984, Lazonick said, “no one was talking about ‘shareholder value.’ ” But, by 1986, “everyone was talking about it.”

Jensen and his ideas proved to be hugely influential. Through the rest of the decade, as President Ronald Reagan pushed for tax cuts and eliminated business regulations, the shareholder-value philosophy became the norm. Companies began giving much of their extra capital back to investors in the form of dividends rather than investing it in areas that could have strengthened the business in the longer term, such as new facilities, new products, worker training, and employee raises. In fact, layoffs were often greeted with enthusiasm because they cut costs and caused stock prices to rise. Corporations also found more creative ways of funnelling money to their shareholders. In 1982, the Securities and Exchange Commission passed a rule allowing companies to buy back their own stock (without being charged with stock manipulation), which reduced the number of shares in the market, causing their price to go up. In the late eighties, Lazonick noticed a sharp increase in stock buybacks. It made sense: buybacks, like dividends, enriched investors, including company executives, who received much of their compensation in company stock.

Lazonick felt that maximizing shareholder value rewarded the wrong people. “The idea that public shareholders are ‘investors’ is really nonsense—shareholders don’t actually take much risk at all” when they buy stock in companies, Lazonick told me. “It’s actually workers and taxpayers who invest in companies.” He also felt the practice was having a destructive effect on society more generally. “It was an explanation for concentration of wealth at the top and the erosion of middle-class jobs,” he said. “A lot of this was caused by decisions within corporations, which had become enamored by this ideology.”

He watched as the shareholder-value philosophy helped create the conditions that led to the Great Recession. Between 2003 and 2007, Lazonick noted that the number of stock buybacks among companies in the S. & P. 500 quadrupled. Then, when the financial crisis began, some of these same banks required billions of dollars in taxpayer bailouts to avoid collapse. In September, 2008, just after Lehman Brothers declared bankruptcy (after spending more than five billion dollars on buybacks in 2006 and 2007), Lazonick wrote an op-ed for the Financial Times titled “Everyone Is Paying Price for Share Buy-Backs.” He described how buybacks had left financial institutions in a vulnerable state, which made the crisis more severe when it arrived. “In the 1980s, executives learnt that greed is good,” he wrote. “Now, their mantra could be ‘in buy-backs we trust.’ ”

He also felt that the practice was slowing corporate innovation. Lazonick found that between 2008 and 2017, the largest pharmaceutical companies spent three hundred billion dollars on buybacks and another two hundred and ninety billion paying dividends, which was equivalent to a little more than a hundred per cent of their combined profits. He noted that both Merck and Pfizer, two of the largest pharmaceutical companies, had been spending heavily on buybacks, but had struggled to develop successful new drugs. The same was true in the tech sector. In the nineteen-nineties, the computer-networking-equipment manufacturer Cisco Systems was one of the fastest growing companies in the world. But between 2002 and 2019, it spent a hundred and twenty-nine billion dollars on stock buybacks—more than it spent on research and development, which Lazonick felt compromised its competitive position. He is currently co-writing a paper comparing Cisco unfavorably with Huawei, the giant Chinese company that is building a global 5G network, the next generation of Internet technology. “Huawei is one of the most innovative companies in the world, because it retains and invests its profits,” Lazonick told me. Today, he argues that Apple is falling prey to the same phenomenon as Cisco. Since the death of its founder, Steve Jobs, in 2011, the company has distributed three hundred and twenty-five billion dollars to its shareholders, while spending only fifty-eight billion on research and development. Lazonick believes that the company has fallen behind in creating revolutionary new products, like the iPhone, and has instead been relying on updates to existing ones.

In 2014, Lazonick wrote an article for the Harvard Business Review called “Profits Without Prosperity,” which helped his ideas break into the mainstream. In the article, he argued that the “allocation of corporate profits to stock buybacks” deserves most of the blame for the stagnation of wage growth for the majority of Americans, the fact that well-paid jobs are increasingly scarce, and the dramatic rise in income inequality. He placed responsibility at the feet of executives, who were prioritizing their own paychecks over investments in their businesses. Proponents of stock buybacks often argue that they are an efficient way to take excess cash that a company can’t use and redeploy it into the economy. But Lazonick felt that, given how little companies were investing in their workers and infrastructure, this argument had little merit. “The very people we rely on to make investments in the productive capabilities that will increase our shared prosperity are instead devoting most of their companies’ profits to uses that will increase their own prosperity—with unsurprising results,” he wrote. “If the U.S. is to achieve growth that distributes income equitably and provides stable employment, government and business leaders must take steps to bring both stock buybacks and executive pay under control. The nation’s economic health depends on it.”

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Lawmakers took note. Lazonick told me that, in 2015, he was consulted by Hillary Clinton’s campaign—which cited his Harvard Business Review article in its economic platform—as well as by Bernie Sanders’s campaign. Some Republicans have even started pointing to buybacks as the cause of America’s political and economic ills. A year ago, one of Senator Marco Rubio’s policy advisers contacted Lazonick to express interest in his research. Rubio later published a report called “American Investment In the 21st Century,” in which he expressed concern that economic growth was driven more by finance than by actual productivity, and mentioned the buyback phenomenon several times. Senator Elizabeth Warren has made the idea a theme of her campaign. She “picked up the correct message right away,” Lazonick told me. “She said, the reason we don’t have prosperity for workers any more is that companies aren’t sharing it. That is the critical point.” The issue looks set to become a central part of the economic platform of several Democratic Presidential candidates.

Around ten years ago, Lazonick started a nonprofit organization called the Academic-Industry Research Network, which now has around a dozen academics around the world, and explores ways of fostering equitable, long-term economic growth. He told me that it was gratifying to finally have enough credibility that his ideas are taken seriously. “The world’s finally waking up to the reasons why income inequality has gotten so bad and why jobs have disappeared,” he said. Last March, Senator Tammy Baldwin, Democrat of Wisconsin, reintroduced the Reward Work Act, which is intended to curb buybacks and to give workers greater influence over decision-making at their companies. Lazonick was invited to testify at the hearing, and he arrived wearing a dark suit and royal blue tie, his silver hair combed neatly back. He sat at a long table with several experts, workers, and organizers. “I think it’s great that people are finally raising the issue,” he said. “But it’s been thirty-six years.”

The pace of buybacks continues to increase. Last year, the Trump Administration passed one and a half trillion dollars in tax cuts, the largest share of which benefitted corporations; companies spent much of the money they saved buying back their stock. In 2018, S. & P. 500 companies spent a record eight hundred billion dollars on buybacks; in 2019, they are set to spend more than a trillion. Once one starts paying attention, it begins to seem as if buybacks are responsible for all sorts of corporate disasters. On May 31st, Lazonick co-authored an article in The American Prospect noting that, between 2013 and 2019, Boeing spent more than seventeen billion dollars on dividends (forty-two per cent of its profits) and an additional forty-three billion dollars on buybacks (a hundred and four per cent of its profits) rather than spending resources to address design flaws in some of its popular jet models, or even to develop new planes. Two of the company’s 737 Max jets had high-profile crashes within the last year, and the Federal Aviation Administration recently grounded the plane over safety concerns.

Some experts worry that the rate of buybacks poses an existential threat to the economy. “I think there’s a real danger of stock buybacks topping out the market, and then the bubble bursting,” Lenore Palladino, an economist with the Roosevelt Institute, told me. “We know who gets hurt when the bubble bursts. It’s the majority of us.”

Alabama’s Republican Party has a ticker on its home page announcing the number of “Days until Doug Jones”—the state’s Democratic junior senator, who defeated the Republican nominee, Roy Moore, in 2017—“is unseated by Alabama voters.” On Thursday, the ticker read “502.” Still to be decided is who will get the chance to unseat the narrowly elected Democrat in one of the country’s most conservative states. On Thursday afternoon, Moore announced his intention to run again, saying, during a press conference in Montgomery, with a yellow notepad in hand, “I fought for our country in Vietnam. I fought for our country and its laws as Chief Justice. I fought for morality, to serve our moral institutions. And I’m ready to do it again. Yes, I will run for the United States Senate in 2020.” He added, “Can I win? Yes, I can win. Not only can I—they know I can. That’s why there’s such opposition to me.” Moore also referred to the “false tactics” used by “Democratic operatives” to disrupt his last campaign. He was alluding to a report, published by the Times last December, that “a group of Democratic tech experts” had carried out an experimental cyber misinformation effort. The Times concluded that the project was unlikely to have affected the election’s outcome. In his announcement, Moore called the 2017 Alabama Senate election “fraudulent,” and predicted that Senate Republicans would run “a smear campaign” against him.

Michael Bullington recently became chair of the Greater Birmingham Young Republicans. The group vocally opposed Moore’s previous candidacy for the Senate seat, which became available, last time around, when Jeff Sessions was appointed to be U.S. Attorney General. Like many other Republicans unsettled by allegations against Moore of sexual misconduct, Bullington wrote in the name of another candidate—though Bullington told me, on Thursday, that he couldn’t quite remember which one he’d settled on. “Probably Del Marsh,” he said, referring to the Republican president pro tempore of the Alabama Senate. “I honestly didn’t expect to be reliving this drama eighteen months later,” Bullington added, noting that he would have kept tabs on Moore’s potential candidacy via Moore’s Twitter page, but Moore blocked Bullington during the last campaign.

Bullington said that he’d be happy to vote for any of the other notable Republicans who have entered the race so far, or are expected to do so—including Tommy Tuberville, the former Auburn University football coach; the congressman Bradley Byrne, the state representative Arnold Mooney; and the Alabama secretary of state, John Merrill. He would also vote for Sessions, were he to run for his old seat—not Moore, though, even against a Democrat. “He was credibly accused of sexual assault by several women,” Bullington said. “He’s currently engaged in multiple lawsuits and seems to be losing. His name identification has largely a negative connotation. He has trouble fixing his taxes right,” Bullington added, referring to [the reported failure] (https://www.washingtonpost.com/investigations/charitys-promised-back-pay-to-roy-moore-was-not-reported-to-irs-as-income/2017/10/19/fa31ab9c-b042-11e7-99c6-46bdf7f6f8ba_story.html?utm_term=.c4689639184e) of Moore’s former charity, the Foundation for Moral Law, to disclose half a million dollars of compensation to him. “His lawyer was arrested on drug charges,” Bullington went on. (The lawyer in question, Trenton Garmon, has denied any wrongdoing.) “He has lost three statewide campaigns. And he was removed from the bench multiple times.”

A Republican pollster told the Washington Post this week that, despite all of this, Moore could win twenty per cent or more of the vote in a Republican primary, positioning him to earn the Party’s nomination for the Senate a second time. “If the Alabama G.O.P. puts him on the ballot,” Bullington said, “then we deserve to lose.”

Cam Ward, a member of the Alabama State Senate, was more forgiving. “He marches to the beat of his own drummer,” Ward said of Moore on Thursday morning. “He has a sizeable base that will support him regardless of the election. Now, the circumstances of this election, as opposed to the one two years ago, have changed dramatically,” Ward continued. “Luther Strange”—the Trump-backed incumbent whom Moore beat in the 2017 primary—“was viewed as the country-club establishment at that time. This time, the field is full of non-incumbents, outsiders,” like Moore. “I don’t think this new dynamic will favor him. It’s harder for him to draw a contrast with this broader, robust, more outsider-filled field.”

“I want to beat Doug Jones,” Ward went on. “I don’t want a rematch of two years ago. Any Republican nominee is always gonna have a chance in Alabama, but I agree with President Trump on this one. I don’t think Judge Moore is in the best position to win.”

Trump weighed in on the race well before Moore’s announcement: in late May, he preëmptively opposed Moore’s potential candidacy—after strongly supporting Moore in the 2017 race. “Republicans cannot allow themselves to again lose the Senate seat in the Great State of Alabama,” Trump tweeted late last month. “This time it will be for Six Years, not just Two. I have NOTHING against Roy Moore, and unlike many other Republican leaders, wanted him to win. But he didn’t, and probably won’t.”

Elizabeth BeShears, a political-communications consultant and Republican based in Birmingham, said, before Moore’s announcement, “Roy Moore’s ego knows no bounds.” His nomination, in 2017, was a “perfect storm,” she said, which she didn’t expect to see repeated. After Moore entered the race on Thursday, BeShears added, “Even if he’s completely innocent of the accusations that came to light in 2017, this move is indicative of a person whose judgment Alabamians should never trust, who is willing to turn yet another election cycle into a self-centered circus.” Though she has not yet made a decision, BeShears likes a handful of the Republicans who’ve already entered the race and is inclined to support most of them in a general election. “I hope Moore is relegated to the sidelines,” she added.

Many people expect the secretary of state, Merrill, to announce his own candidacy soon, and he is believed to be a strong contender for the nomination. Merrill told me, “Obviously, if Judge Moore wants to pursue another campaign, he’s qualified to do so: he meets the standard for age and citizenship. But,” Merrill went on, “there are a number of people who have already made up their minds about his candidacy, because of what we went through in 2017. He’d have a difficult time overcoming some of those things that were presented and would be raised again.” Merrill added, “The people of Alabama decided they’d rather have Senator Jones than Judge Moore, and it’s very important that we elect a proven, conservative reformer who is recognized as a winner.”

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The resort 2020 collections are shaping up to be a celebration of vintage heroines and attuned femininity. From the return of retro-inspired suede to the staying power of the Bermuda short, here’s what we know (so far) about next year’s incoming fashion mood.

Pocket the benefits of practical tailoring

When it comes to tailoring, we’re witnessing a shift away from fashion’s seemingly-endless appetite for die-hard minimalism. The new mood in suiting has swung in a more practical direction, with pockets signalling ready-to-wear’s new ethos. Expect to see Prada, Chanel and Jil Sander’s refined take on military references leading the way. Your muse? Lauren Hutton, naturally. And model Anna Ewers, with her hands buried in the pockets of Bottega Veneta’s glossy forest-green trench for the label’s resort 2020 lookbook.

Image credit: Courtesy of Valentino

Candyfloss pink is prime for a comeback

Imagine Pepto Bismol pink (the de-facto hue of Millennial marketing tools), but with a hint of subversion. The squeaky clean shade is undergoing a makeover for next year thanks to Valentino, Fendi and Prada, where acres of silk and pleated taffeta are dismissing the ‘basic’ tagline that has haunted the mood-lifting tone over the past few years. This is a story with both glamorous and grungy ends. Plot twist: Jeremy Scott’s suburban prom queen wears a slasher movie rendition of the ephemeral pink gown.

Image credit: Courtesy of Oscar de la Renta

Red carpet gowns get stripped back

While practical pockets and gymnastic body-con are set to have a moment next spring, there’s also a revival of monochromatic gowns (seen at Burberry, Oscar de la Renta and Givenchy) that riff off old Hollywood silhouettes. If it seems like the runway is giving mixed signals on modernity, take a closer look. There are bare-faced models defying outmoded red carpet tropes with a powerfully physical approach to modelling and a unanimously stripped back approach. The sun has set on the condescension of the word ‘starlet’ and the stock character of the ‘ingenue’, and the very public uniform of the world’s most recognisable women is readied for action come 2020.

Image credit: GoRunway.com

The Bermuda short is sticking around

This season’s roomy longline shorts – the sort that once populated yacht clubs in the 1980s – are here to stay. Credit to Daniel Lee at Bottega Veneta for resuscitating the look with the house’s deftly chic spring/summer 2019 collection. Whether you wear yours with a bustier, knitted twin-set or skater tee (seen at Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Simon Miller respectively), Bermudas are all about versatility, something that we can definitely get on board with.

Image credit: GoRunway.com

Ditch the trousers for 2020

Here’s your headstart on a fuss-free summer. Instagram’s favourite no-trousers look has come of age with Chloé, Balmain and Chanel offering up the shirt dress as next year’s warm weather style shortcut. Wear yours belted or layered beneath a lightweight jacket, powered up with an ankle boot or paired with a zero-hassle sandal.

Image credit: GoRunway.com

Statement-making suede is the latest look to be brought back from the vintage archives

If there ever was a moment to channel a 1970s Jackie Kennedy, it’s now. From Jil Sander’s directional shift dress, to Alberta Ferretti’s loungey co-ords, or Prada’s clean take on the trench, it pays to switch out the denim outerwear for a more tactile approach. Accessories-wise, Bottega Veneta’s suede clutch is destined to be the new cult choice for 2020.

Image credit: GoRunway.com

Leggings and full-look hosiery are having a moment

When Givenchy and Chanel showcase the redeeming qualities of leggings, we take note. In theory, the structured-jacket-plus-running-tights could be the workwear dress code we’ve been waiting for. Or maybe it’s more about the full hosiery look seen on the runway at Gucci’s cruise show in Rome, where the tights themselves took centre stage. Ignore the niggling voice that’s saying no, you shouldn’t, you Because, yes, you should and you absolutely can.

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