Il 28/01/2014 gli alpinisti austriaci Albert Leichtfried e Benedikt Purner hanno effettuato la prima salita di Zweite Geige (WI7/M7, 140m) in Vallunga, Dolomiti.

A fine gennaio la bellissima Vallunga si è arricchita di un’altra nuova via di ghiaccio grazie agli austriaci Albert Leichtfried e Benedikt Purner che, da quando Leichtfried ha aperto Illuminati nel 2006, sono sempre stati molti attivi in questa valle Dolomitica. L’anno scorso, per esempio, i due avevano aperto Hyperventilatione e Senza Piombo e avevano anche aperto una difficile variante di un tiro alla cascata Sdrucciolo dei Camosci (Palma Baldo, Giovanni Groaz 1991). Ora Zweite Geige, l’ultima loro linea nata pochi giorni fa, promette di essere un’altro piccolo gioiello.

Zweite Geige – ovvero “Secondo violino” – segue una linea immediatamente a destra della famosa cascata Crollo dell’Est, salita nel 1992 da Giovanni Groaz e Renzo Lunzi (ed erronemeante riportata in molte guide con il nome di Flauto Magico). E’ stato proprio durante una ripetizione di questa via all’inizio di gennaio che gli austriaci hanno individuato la possibilità di salire qualcosa di nuovo a destra. Così sono tornati il 28 gennaio, assieme all’amico e fotografo Elias Holzknecht, e dopo aver ripetuto Crollo dell’Est per fissare le corde per il fotografo, si sono poi concentrati sulla nuova linea.

Purner ha aperto il primo tiro, 20 complicati metri di misto lungo un diedro, gradati M7 e protetti soltanto con una manciata di dadi e friends. Raggiunto l’evidente flusso di ghiaccio, ha fatto sosta con due chiodi da ghiaccio lunghi. Leichtfried ha poi salito il secondo tiro, 40 impegnativi metri su ghiaccio strapiombante gradati WI7. “Di rado ho salito del ghiaccio puro così strapiombante” ci ha raccontato Leichtfried “il tiro strapiomba un paio di metri e non capita spesso che si formi qualcosa di simile.” Purner ha poi aperto il terzo tiro, altri 50m su ghiaccio sottile, mentre l’ultimo tiro è in comune con gli ultimi 30m di Crollo dell’Est. Tutti i tiri sono stati aperti a vista, e senza utilizzare spit e chiodi da roccia.

Zweite Geige è stata gradata complessivamente WI7 M7. Leichtfried ci ha spiegato che “Questa via è sicuramente una delle mie realizzazioni più belle. Anche se tecnicamente è meno difficile per esempio di Senza Piombo, Zweite Geige è totalmente clean, cioè senza spit e chiodi, e sale ghiaccio non al 100% sicuro, questo dal punto di vista psicologico l’ha resa una delle nostre vie più difficili. Se a questo si aggiunge che siamo riusciti a salirla a vista, senza mai cadere, allora forse si capisce perché questa salita per noi ha rappresentato qualcosa di veramente speciale.”

Per quanto riguarda il loro approccio alle prime salite, Leichtfried ci ha spiegato che “Ultimamente è evidente che sempre più spesso si pensa allo stile della salita. Già da alcuni anni da parte nostra tentiamo di salire il più possibile senza l’uso di spit, lì dove la roccia ci permette di piazzare delle protezioni. Però crchiamo di evitare un rischio insensato, e se le formazioni non permettono di fare altro, allora il piantare degli spit non è da interpretare come una caduta di stile. Tuttavia, se si confrontano le vie bisogna parlare e paragonare sempre le stesse cose. Clean significa che la via, sia prima sia dopo la salita in libera, è pulita, che non si trovino protezioni sulla via e che non erano stati messi sulla via prima della salita. Trad significa, invece, che ci possono anche essere dei chiodi normali. Detto questo, penso che tutti dovrebbero scegliere lo stile che vogliono, e non bisogna mai dimenticare il gusto del divertimento.”
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SCHEDA: Zweite Geige, Dolomiti

La storica falesia di Frea a Passo Gardena in Dolomiti. La sesta proposta del progetto ‘Falesie di stagione’, in collaborazione con Vertical-Life.info

Il Passo Gardena collega due delle valli dolomitiche più belle in assoluto, la Val Gardena e la Val Badia. Chi ha percorso questa strada almeno una volta conosce esattamente la sensazione che regalano le ripide pareti delle Meisules quando ci si passa sotto in macchina. Salendo dalla Val Gardena, poco sotto al passo, sulla destra, si nota una fascia di roccia particolarmente compatta, questa è la falesia di Frea.

Più di cento tiri, la metà parte dei quali sul sesto grado della scala francese e di puro godimento, su buchi e tacche svase. Non mancano però neanche tiri per quelli un po’ più ambiziosi, il grado sette infatti è ben presente con 20 tiri circa. La ciliegina sulla torta infine la offrono le vie multi-pitch, per tutti coloro che amano avere un po’ di aria sotto ai piedi per una lunghezza con non super mai i 5 tiri di corda.

La falesia è suddivisa in 5 settori, 2 dei quali sono raggiungibili tramite una piccola ferrata oppure con 2 tiri di corda. È consigliabile quindi l’uso di un casco in caso ci fossero delle cordate impegnate nelle vie a più tiri oppure se qualcuno stesse arrampicando nei settori superiori.

SCHEDA: Frea, Passo Gardena, Dolomiti

FALESIE DI OGNI STAGIONE
– Ciastlins, San Vigilio di Marebbe
– Stohlwond, Racines, Vipiteno 
– Salares, Valparola 
– Calamancina, San Vito lo Capo 
– Passo delle Erbe – Würzjoch
– Frea, Passo Gardena

Ediz. italiana, tedesco, inglese.
Val Badia, Gherdeina, Val di Fassa, Val di Landro, Cortina d’Ampezzo, Hochpustertal – Lienz
di Vertical-Life.info, 2013

Web-info: vertical-life.info/crags/87-frea

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Quest’estate Andrew Cubbon ha liberato Augmentium 30/8a+, la via d’arrampicata trad più difficile della Tasmania, Australia.

Quando si pensa all’arrampicata in Tasmania, viene immediatamente in mente il Totem Pole, quello straordinario pilastro salito per la prima volta nel 1968 da John Ewbank ed Allan Keller. Nel 1998 infatti il pilastro è stato il protagonista del terribile incidente dell’arrampicatore inglese Paul Pritchard che, a causa di una caduta, ha rischiato seriamente di perdere la vita, ed è poi rimasto parzialmente paralizzato, un episodio raccontato nel suo avvincente libro “Totem Pole” che ha reso il pilastro famoso in tutto il mondo. Nonostante tutte le sue difficoltà Pritchard ha eletto la Tasmania come sua seconda casa e, vista la straordinaria bellezza di quest’isola a sud dell’Australia, è anche facile capire il perché.

Ovviamente in Tasmania c’è molto di più da salire che “soltanto” il Totem Pole ed è attualmente in lavorazione un film che racconterà tutta la sua bellezza e il suo potenziale. Uno dei posti che meritano assolutamente una vista si chiama Star Factory: situata nel Freycinet National Park nel sud est dell’isola, questa scogliera ospita circa 50 vie sportive e 10 vie trad, tra cui spicca Augmentium, liberata recentemente dal climber inglese Andrew ‘Squib’ Cubbon con difficoltà attorno a 30/8a+. Attualmente è la via trad più difficile dell’isola, ma stando alle voci di corridoio, è possibile che non manterrà questo primato a lungo.

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Il 21/03/2015 Alexander Feichter ha ripetuto Underground, l’ormai classico test di arrampicata sportiva gradato 9a a Massone, Arco.

Underground a Massone è sicuramente una dei 9a più gettonati al mondo, un po’ perché si trova ad Arco dove prima o poi passano tutti, un po’ perché la via liberata da Manfred Stuffer nel 1998, è semplicemente bella. Verso la fine di marzo il 21enne climber della Valle Aurina Alexander Feichter è riuscito anche lui a ripeterla. Per Feichter questo enorme tetto è il suo secondo 9a dopo The witch of darkness, una via da lui spittata e liberata nel 2013 nella falesia di Drittelsand vicino a Luttago in Valle Aurina.

Così Feichter ci ha raccontato la “sua” salita: “La famosa Underground a Massone è la via migliore via che abbia mai salito. Si tratta di un enorme tetto con 3 difficili sezioni boulder. Ognuno dei suoi 50 movimenti è semplicemente perfetto. Preferisco l’arrampicata in forte strapiombo e quando ho visto la via per la prima volta ho provato pura gioia, per aver trovato una via che si adatta completamente al mio stile di scalata. Ho subito provato i movimenti e già il primo giorno sono riuscito a farli tutti. Così mi sono allenato specificamente la sera, 3 o 4 volte a settimana. Anche se la via era spesso bagnata il 21 marzo le condizioni erano perfette e finalmente sono riuscito a salirla. Ero molto felice, anzi di più. Il momento in cui ho moschettonato la catena resta indimenticabile, non riuscivo né ad urlare né a piangere, sono riuscito soltanto ad appendermi all’imbrago, godendo appieno il momento di realizzare quello che avevo appena fatto.

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SCHEDA: la falesia Massone, Arco

Il video di Alex Honnold e Hazel Findlay ed il loro viaggio arrampicata in Sud Africa.

Sud Africa, ovvero boulder a Rocklands. Ma non solo, perché il potenziale per l’arrampicata in questo straordinario paese è enorme, come hanno scoperto lo statunitense Alex Honnold e Hazel Findlay durante il loro viaggio tra Namibia e Waterfalll Boven, attraverso la remota e selvaggia catena Blouberg (Blue Mountain) per arrivare fino a Cape Town.

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Il video di Leopoldo Faria in arrampicata a Corgas – Sagres, Portogallo.

Ritorniamo ancora da Leopoldo Faria in Portogallo. Questa volta il forte climber non è in free solo a Cabo da Roca, ma sulla via Peixe Porco, il primo 9a del paese da lui liberato nel 2013 che si trova in un’altra meravigliosa falesia a picco sul mare, Corgas vicino a Sagres. Sulla punta sud-ovest della splendida regione dell’Algarve, secondo Faria è “un’insieme di elementi che rendono l’arrampicata a Sagres davvero unica e speciale…”

SCHEDA: Sagres, Portogallo

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With the reframing of activewear as appropriate attire for every situation and the rise in brands releasing activewear-inspired pieces that are never supposed to be sweated in, it was only a matter of time before activewear made its way into our date night wardrobes. But, it’s not every style of activewear that’s becoming a date night staple certainty in celebrity circles, it’s one item in particular: the bicycle short.

Traditionally, date night-wear has depended on the location of the date — an upmarket restaurant date might have called for a classic LBD paired with a favourite heel, while an al fresco picnic under the stars would have been the domain of denim and a boot, slide or plimsoll depending on the season.

But, now that activewear is not just for being active and with so many trends from the ‘90s, from scrunchies to crop tops to the chunky white Dad-style sneakers ‘90s pop star Britney Spears favoured, back for a second round, the bicycle short  — a mainstay of ‘90s style — has emerged not only as the new activewear-as-daywear go-to but as an option for romantic nights out.

The look has been spotted on a slew of celebrities on actual date nights out including Chrissy Teigen, Kim Kardashian West, Hailey Bieber and Bella Hadid to name but a few.

Model and TV personality, Chrissy Teigen, stepped out for a date night with her husband, John Legend, in January this year wearing an oversized Area blazer paired with white bike shorts and made a very compelling case for bike shorts as date night-wear (see the look, here).

Kim Kardashian West, 38, is a big fan of the style and has worn a variety of bike shorts on various occasions — none of which appear to be to the gym — including out with her husband, Kanye West (they were from his brand Yeezy, but still). As a fan of the style, The Keeping Up With the Kardashians star, has provided a lesson in styling the ‘90s item, pairing hers with everything from a leather duster coat to heeled thongs and a crop top, to a heavily studded leather biker jacket and black choker.

Bella Hadid was also spotted out with her now-ex, The Weeknd, in a pair of bicycle shorts and her sister Gigi Hadid appears to have embraced the style as well. Hailey Bieber wore hers on a date day out with husband, Justin Bieber, and Kylie Jenner recently posted a picture of herself to Instagram in a grey bodysuit with bike short leggings being cuddled by boyfriend Travis Scott, perhaps pre-date night? 

Scroll through for some bicycle short inspiration from celebrities for your next date night outfit.

Image credit: Getty Images

Gigi Hadid wears bike shorts to attend a Wardrobe.NYC launch, July 17, 2019 in New York City.

Image credit: Instagram.com/kyliejenner

Kylie Jenner pairs bicycle shorts with an oversized pink blazer, October 2018.

Image credit: Instagram.com/kyliejenner

Kylie Jenner wears a bicycle short-legged bodysuit and oversized neon pink blazer with her boyfriend, Travis Scott.

Image credit: Getty Images

While model Emily Ratajkowski is not on a date with her husband, she is on a walking date with her dog and could very well have met her husband for a date after walking her pooch.

Image credit: Getty Images

Bella Hadid opts for an elevated bicycle short look while in Paris, France.

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21st Aug 2019

My mother’s favourite accessory is an umbrella. She likes her handbags just fine, but it’s her collection of umbrellas that’s truly impressive. They range from pretty paper parasols, to floral ones, to the black-out umbrellas favoured by Beyoncé’s bodyguards to deflect paparazzi. Only about 10 per cent of them are used for rain, the rest are for preventing what my mother considers to be the number one enemy of good skin (UV rays aside): a sun tan.

My mum has waged a war against the sun for all of her life. When she drives, she wears full-length gloves and a beekeeper-like hat, which she quickly whips off before her colleagues can see. For gardening, she’s a fan of a full-face UV visor. When we walk outside, she shields us both from the sun with one of her giant umbrellas (in addition to a thick layer of at least SPF 50). Although the United States has gradually become more aware of the importance of sun protection, to buy all of her very extra sun accessories, she needs to travel to Asia, where there is generally a wider understanding that tanning is the antithesis of beauty (although this is starting to change).

For women of my mum’s generation (born in the 1960s), having pale, clear skin has always been seen as the epitome of beauty. Blame it on the pervasiveness of Western beauty ideals, and historically, class divisions, where the poorer would work outside (getting a tan) and the richer could afford to stay inside. In 2018, global market research estimated that sales of skin-whitening products will reach up to $31.2 billion by 2024, with Asia-Pacific representing the fastest growing market. Big beauty conglomerates sell products such as Fair & Lovely and Pond’s White Beauty and Flawless White cream, both purported to lighten skin tone. More dangerously, there are under-the-counter lotions containing mercury and hydroquinone, which experts say can lead to long-term skin damage, poisoning, and liver and kidney problems.

Change is coming, though, especially in a post-Fenty world where skin-tone diversity is celebrated. Although the majority of actresses and models in Asia are lighter-skinned, there is now greater representation. In India, high-fashion models now include the likes of Pooja Mor, Bhumika Arora and Neelam Gill, who was recently signed as L’Oréal Paris’s first British-Indian spokesmodel.

In Korea, veteran K-pop singer Lee Hyori was one of the first darker-skinned celebrities, while fans of Yuri of Girls’ Generation affectionately call her the “Black Pearl”. Charlotte Cho, founder of K-Beauty startup Soko Glam, says, “I do think that lighter skin used to be the ideal 10 to 20 years ago, but in recent years, the more healthy and attractive ideal for Millennials is actually skin that is darker and more tan, not pale.” She points to the popularity of Hwasa from Mamamoo, one of the hottest K-idols at the moment, dubbed “the icon” of Millennials by Cosmopolitan Korea. Nick Barose, a celebrity makeup artist and contributor to Vogue Thailand, praises Metinee Kingpayom, one of the original Thai supermodels, for her warm, golden skin tone.

Priyanka Chopra, who once starred in a skin-lightening cream advert, told Vogue India that she regretted it. “When I was an actor, around my early twenties, I did a commercial for a skin-lightening cream. I was playing that girl with insecurities. And when I saw it, I was like, ‘Oh shit. What did I do?’ And I started talking about being proud of the way I looked. I actually really like my skin tone.”

In the last decade, some countries have enacted laws banning skin-whitening creams. They’re currently outlawed in Ghana and the Ivory Coast, and Pakistan is cracking down on them. In 2014, India banned “colourist” advertising, making it illegal to show darker-skinned people in a negative light.

Social media activism, too, has been a force for change. In 2009, Indian NGO Women of Worth, started a “Dark Is Beautiful” campaign, promoted by Bollywood actor Nandita Das, which runs media literacy workshops and school advocacy programmes to educate about colour bias. In Pakistan, social activist Fatima Lodhi has created a global anti-colourism campaign called “Dark Is Divine”. And in Austin, Texas, student Pax Jones created a photo series, #UnfairandLovely, highlighting the beauty of her South Asian friends and making a play on the name of the skin-lightening brand (thousands shared their own photos, using the hashtag). Twitter, meanwhile, has called out the Miss Korea and Miss India pageants for their lack of skin-tone diversity.

Beauty brands, including Asian labels, are also expanding the shades they offer. Barose says, “I used to see people trying to wear foundation lighter to look lighter but now I see people embracing the correct colour to match their skin. You see Asian brands like Koh Gen Do, Clé de Peau and Shiseido with more warm tones now.” It’s not quite the 40 offered by Fenty, but Shiseido will be launching a new foundation later this year with 30 shades. Next year, Clé de Peau Beauté will also be offering shade extensions of its cult concealer after only having six shades for years. “Korean cosmetic companies are providing more shades for their customers to fit this trend and shift in consumer demand,” says Cho.

Indian fashion designer and passionate advocate against skin-colour bias, Masaba Gupta, perhaps puts it best: “The colour of your skin has to do with which side of the equator you live on and it doesn’t have to do with anything else.”

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21st Aug 2019

Millie Bobby Brown is launching a new beauty brand aimed at Gen Z. Florence by Mills will feature PETA-certified, cruelty-free, vegan skincare and make-up that’s specifically designed for young people’s skin.

“I’ve been in a make-up chair since I was 10, 11 years old, and I have really been introduced to all types of products,” the Stranger Things star told WWD. “I wanted to come into the space because there was a gap in the market for young people. I could never find anything that I liked to put on my face.”

Florence by Mills is Brown’s first solo project outside the world of acting. The 15-year-old actress follows the lead of other celebrities to launch beauty lines in recent years: Rihanna’s Fenty, Lady Gaga’s Haus Laboratories, Kylie Jenner’s Kylie Cosmetics and Selena Gomez.

Here’s everything you need to know about Millie Bobby Brown’s new beauty brand, Florence by Mills.

Florence by Mills will offer PETA-certified, cruelty-free, vegan skincare and make-up products. According to WWD, the range includes the Light Skin Tint, Zero Chill Face Mist and Swimming Under the Eye Gel Pads—Brown’s favourite, so far.

The beauty range will be available at Ulta Beauty, Boots and online. The products will cost between $10 and $34. A percentage of its proceeds will be donated to the Olivia Hope Foundation, which was set up in tribute to Brown’s late friend Olivia Hope LoRusso, who died from leukemia in 2017.

It’s named after Milly Bobby Brown’s great-grandmother, Florence. Mills is a nickname used by her family and some fans, Brown says.

An official launch date for Florence by Mills has not yet been announced—what we do know is that it’s being created by Beach House, the company behind Kendall Jenner’s oral care brand, Moon.

Florence by Mills is aimed at Gen Z—those aged 24 and under—as Brown felt there was a gap in the market for her age group, looking for eco-conscious beauty products to suit their skin type.

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21st Aug 2019

Ahead of her highly-anticipated performance at Vogue American Express Fashion’s Night Out, Vogue caught up with Sydney-based singer-songwriter Thandi Phoenix, to talk about everything from her music career to her shopping habits.

Slated to close Vogue American Express Fashion’s Night Out in Melbourne on August 29, as well as Sydney on September 5, Phoenix says she’s looking forward to drawing inspiration from the one-night-only shopping extravaganza.

“I just want to be inspired,” the artist told Vogue. “I like what I like and sometimes I don’t follow trends but it would be cool to see what is in at the moment and see what [brands] have to offer. Vogue is such an incredible institution,” she added. “To be a part of it is an honour.”

Citing the likes of Maribelle, Disclosure, and Dua Lipa as the artists she is constantly inspired by, Phoenix, who describes her sound as “a mixture of soulful pop with electronic,” shares that life experiences tend to motivate her lyrics.

“Everything that I write about is either something that has happened to me or something that I’ve seen happen to friends,” she explained. “I think it’s best to write from a genuine perspective and something that feels truthful to you.”

When quizzed on her style, the Triple J frequent, who recently performed at Splendour in the Grass alongside Tame Impala, Childish Gambino and Sza, says she opts for outfits that make her feel great.

“I think fashion is such an extension of self and if you put on a certain outfit it makes you shine a different way or feel a certain way,” Phoenix told Vogue. “But I’ve been buying a lot of suits at the moment because they just make me feel strong, powerful and in control.”

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When it comes to her shopping habits, Phoenix admits she’s an impulse buyer and advises that when shopping this VAEFNO, you “do as you feel.”

“If you like it, get it. If you love it, get it. If it makes you happy, have it,” she laughed. “Buy now, think later.”

As for what we can expect from Phoenix in the near future? The musician shared she’s excited to drop her debut EP, which she says is uplifting, positive and high-energy, and is eager to announce which festivals she’ll be performing at later this year.

While you await the news, be sure to see Phoenix take to the Vogue stage during Vogue America Express Fashion’s Night Out in Melbourne on August 29 and Sydney on September 5.