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Il 01/05/2011 Joshua Lavigne e Raphael Slawinski hanno effettuato la prima salita di Tsunami (300 m, M5 WI5+) sul Mt Patterson nelle Rocky Mountains in Canada

A meno di un mese dalla prima salita di The Peach a Storm Creek, Raphael Slawinski continua a fare quello che gli riesce meglio: aprire nuove vie nelle Rockies Canadesi. Il 1° maggio il professore di fisica si è recato a Mt Patterson sopra la famosa Icefields Parkway insieme alla guida alpina canadese Joshua Lavigne. I due hanno aperto Tsunami, una linea di 300 metri a destra della famosa via Riptide. Slawinski aveva scoperto la linea di recente, mentre ripeteva la classica via di misto Rocket Man. La cordata è salita per 6 tiri con difficoltà fino a M5 WI5+. Una volta raggiunto l’altopiano i due canadesi sono scesi in doppia lungo la via.

Lavigne ha descritto Tsunami come segue: "A prima vista sembra essere minacciata da seracchi, ma da vicino invece questi sembrano abbastanza benigni. Abbiamo salito la via in 6 tiri complessivi, per raggiungere il ghiaccio abbiamo salito 3 tiri di terreno molto alpino, con ghiaccio sottile e mistofragile. Raggiunto il ghiaccio, tre tiri ci hanno poi portato in cima ai seracchi. Una giornata meravigliosa in un ambiente ideale per una classica via di ghiaccio!"

Tsunami Mt Patterson prima salita di Raphael Slawinski e Joshua Lavigne

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Iker Pou, vie nuove tra Margalef e Ilarduia

August 25, 2019 | News | No Comments

Nella falesia spagnola di Margalef Iker Pou ha liberato Enemigo Público Nº1 8c+/9a) mentre in quella di Ilarduia ha liberato Harroputza 9a.

Iker Pou continua ad aprire nuove vie a tutto spiano. Dopo Nit de Bruixes, il basco ha liberato Enemigo Público Nº1 (8c+/9a), una via “praticamente senza appoggi” che, secondo Iker, è “una della più belle ed esplosive vie di Margalef”. Inoltre, sempre sul conglomerato di Margalef lo spagnolo ha anche liberato Fil per randa (8b+), El Tango del Jabalí (8b+), Cocainea Pura y Dura (8c) e Para el Este (8c).

Approfittando della sua grande forma, nella falesia vicina a casa sua, cioè quella di Ilarduia, Iker ha anche liberato Los Puntos Sobre las X (8c/c+) e Harroputza; quest’ultima descritta come “una delle vie che in assoluto mi ha stimolato di più”. 42 metri di 9a per una serie perfetta di tacche, ossia “un autentico gioiello per chi è in cerca di un tesoro.”


INTERVISTA IKER POU febbraio 2010

Iker Pou – Vitoria 05/02/1977
1994: El sentido de la vida, primo 8a a-vista
1994: Gora begira ez dago nekerik, primo 8b+ rotpunkt
1996: Mala vida, primo 8c rotpunkt
1998: Guenga, primo 8c+ rotpunkt
2000: Action Direct 9a, Frankenjura, Germania. 3° salita
2001: Wallstreet 8c Frankenjura, Germania
2001: Elfe 8c+/9a, Grimselpass, Svizzera
2002: Silbergeier 8b+/200m, Rätikon, Svizzera, 5° salita
2002: prima libera El Pilar del Cantabrico 8a+/500m, Naranjo de Bulnes, Spain
2003: El Niño 8b/850m, Yosemite, El Capitan, USA. 3° salita.
2003: Baing the sang 8c+/9a, Svizzera
2003: Mendeku 9a, Basque country, Spagna
2004: prima libera Bravo Les Filles 8b/600m Tsaranoro- Madagascar
2004: The Nose 8b+/1100m, Yosemite, El Capitan, USA. 32 di 34 tiri in libera
2005: Eternal Flame 8a/1100m, Trango Tower Himalaya, con il “Pou Brothers Variantion” 8a a 6000m
2006: Franco-Argentine route 6c+/1300m, Fitz Roy, Patagonia. 5 tentativi, ritirato 40m dalla cima.
2006: Quinto Imperio, Naranjo de Bulnes, Spagna
2007: Supercanaleta 6c-M6-90º/2000m, Fitz Roy, Patagonia
2007: Blaue Lagune 7b+/250m, Legacy 7b+/320m, Batman 7b+/250m, Cleoplatra 7c/270m, Wendenstock, Svizzera. Tutti a-vista
2007: Begi Puntuan 9a, paesi Baschi, Spagna
2007: prima salita Lurgorri 8c+/250m, Naranjo de Bulnes, Spagna
2008: prima salita Azken Paradizua 7a-M6-90º/600m. Zerua Peak, Antartica.
2009: prima salita Marcados por el Chañi 85/M6/600m, Chañi Chico, Argentina
2009: prima salita Orbayu 8c+/9a(500m). Naranjo de Bulnes. Spagna.
2009: Maritxu kilkerra, primo 8b+ a-vista
2010: Demencia Senil 9a+, Margalef, Spain
2010: Solo per vecchi guerrieri, 8c/9a Dolomiti
2010: Pan Aroma sulla Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomiti
2011: La Classica Moderna, nuova via sul Monte Bianco per Barmasse e fratelli Pou
2012: prima salita Nit de bruixes 9a+ a Margalef

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Century Crack, il video

August 25, 2019 | News | No Comments

Il video di Pete Whittaker e Tom Randall su Century Crack 8c nei Canyonlands, USA.

Ci rendiamo conto che ne abbiamo già parlato non poco, ma siccome è la offwidth più difficile al mondo, forse vale la pena anche guardare il trailer del film appena uscito. Ecco che si capisce sia la dimensione della fessura, sia le tecniche usate da Tom Randall e Pete Whittaker. Non il solito 8c di piccole tacche…
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Century Crack 8c

August 25, 2019 | News | No Comments

Tom Randall e Pete Whittaker hanno ora proposto il grado di 8c per Century Crack a Canyonlands, USA.

All’inizio di ottobre gli arrampicatori britannici Tom Randall e Pete Whittaker hanno effettuato la prima salita in stile pinkpoint di Century Crack, quell’enorme, maestoso tetto nel Canyonlands, USA, completamente orizzontale e solcato da una fessura talmente perfetta che è difficile persino da immaginare. La salita ha segnato il culmine di due anni di intenso allenamento specifico e anche se entrambi, Randall e Whittaker, la subito definita come la più dura offwidth che avevano mai salito, c’era comunque bisogno di tempo e di mettere la salita in prospettiva per produrre un grado credibile.

Nelle settimane che seguirono i due inglesi hanno rapidamente ripetuto alcune tra le più difficili offwidths del paese e questo tour li ha portati a Zion dove hanno ripetuto Gabriel 5.13c (aperta da Pamela Pack) e Price of Evil 5.13b, e a Indian Creek dove hanno ripetuto la famosa Belly Full Of Bad Berries (liberata da Brad Jackson e persino salita a-vista da Whittaker). Queste, più la recente seconda e terza salita di Army of Darkness 5.13d (Rob Pizem, 03/2008) a Canyonlands, l’a- vista di Lucille a Vedauwoo di cui avevamo dato notizie e più di 100 altre difficile offwidths negli USA e in tutta l’Europa ora hanno fornito la base per il grado di Century Crack, che credono sia 5.14b, o 8c.

Randall ha ragionato a lungo sul suo blog e fa notare che la velocità con cui hanno salito la via (il primo tentativo del secondo giorno sulla via) è dovuto in grande parte al fatto che tutti gli allenamenti erano stati effettuati con quella via in mente. Scrive Randall “Come molti sanno, Pete ed io abbiamo trascorso due anni allenandoci di brutto nella fessura costruita nella mia cantina. Ci siamo allenati in modo specifico per Century. Avevamo una copia, quasi esatta, dell’intera via e ci siamo allenati… allenati … e allenati. In questi due anni abbiamo fatto oltre 5000m di questa fessura, il che equivale ad avere già salito la via 42 volte ciascuno. E’ questo il punto che ci tengo a ribadire – lo so che sembra veloce fare un importante progetto in soli 2 giorni, ma in effetti avevamo già fatto innumerevoli sessioni sulla via a casa. Tutto questo allenamento è stato accuratamente preparato per poter essere al massimo della forma durante il nostro viaggio negli Stati Uniti e per evitare sovra allenamenti”.

Pete Whittaker ha concluso, giustamente: “Penso che qualsiasi grado per la via, sia 6c o 8c, non rende l’idea di cos’è fare questa salita. Per averne un’idea bisogna andare laggiù ed effettivamente stare sotto e provarla. Questo è l’unico modo per sentire la vera mostruosità della bestia. Allora andate lì, sarebbe bello avere un altro parere!”

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Pop-music history is filled with dreamers who came and went, leaving behind just enough to scramble a latter-day listener’s sense of what was once possible. In 1967, the Jamaican record label Sunshine released a seven-inch single by a man named Stephen Cheng, titled “Always Together (A Chinese Love Song).” The track begins in the loping, offbeat style of rocksteady: a guitar
cranking through a skanking rhythm, the bass slinking up and down


in the background. But things get odd when Cheng starts singing. Most Jamaican rocksteady singers of the time mimicked the cadences of American soul. Cheng
sings in a bold, over-the-top style reminiscent of Chinese opera.


The words he sings are in Mandarin: the lyrics for “Always Together” were adapted from “Girl from Ali Shan,” a folk song that originated in Taiwan, thousands of miles from Jamaica. “Always Together” was obscure even upon its release; eventually, it became a cherished novelty among hard-core Jamaican-music fans. But, for years, the few historians and collectors who knew about it wondered about its provenance. Chinese Jamaicans played a significant role in the island’s rocksteady and reggae scenes, as both performers and producers, but Cheng was an unknown. Where did he come from? And where did he go?

Last year, I joined the curatorial team at New York’s Museum of Chinese in America for “The Moon Represents My Heart,” an exhibit focussed on the role that music has played in Chinese-American life. Our show didn’t have a central story, because there’s no single thing that might credibly be called “Chinese-American music.” Instead, we tried to explore how music brings meaning to our lives, whether we are singing in church or at a karaoke bar; freestyling with friends or dancing at a rave; learning enough chords to make a racket at a club or in the garage. Sometimes the meaning of such experiences doesn’t come into focus until later—the piano lessons you were forced to take as a child morph into a predisposition for synth-pop. Music shapes our identities in ways that, like a forgotten recording artist, can be difficult to trace. Our show’s title came from a 1977 hit by the Taiwanese pop singer Teresa Teng, whose songs about romance and reunion bound people throughout the Chinese diaspora, serving as a beacon for those who would never return home. Naturally, we were drawn to musical stories involving unlikely circuits of encounter. One day, while working on the exhibit, I mentioned Stephen Cheng to one of the museum’s curators, Andrew Rebatta. I played “Always Together” for him, and he was entranced. Within a week, he had tracked down Cheng’s family.

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Cheng, we were surprised to learn, was a New Yorker. He had died in 2012 and was survived by five children, who told us that music was a constant part of their upbringing. Their father was born into a well-to-do family in Shanghai, in 1921, and worked as a journalist there after college. In 1948, he moved to Hawaii, where he had family, and then to New York, where he attended Columbia, and later studied singing at Juilliard. He was cast in Broadway shows, including “The World of Suzie Wong” and “Flower Drum Song,” and he recorded an album of Chinese folk songs for New York’s Monitor Records. His summers were spent performing theatre and touring.

Cheng’s children knew most of this growing up. But they had not learned about “Always Together” until recently. In November, 2017, Cheng’s son Pascal discovered it by chance on YouTube—he had listened to some of his father’s other recordings, and the site’s algorithm suggested it to him. The song had been uploaded to YouTube in 2010, around the time the single was reissued by a Japanese record label specializing in Jamaican obscurities. Pascal left comments below the YouTube video and on music blogs, touting his father’s long career and asking if anyone knew about the song’s origins.

After Rebatta, the curator, contacted Cheng’s family, Cheng’s daughter Danielle came by the museum. She brought a collection of files that their father had kept about his musical exploits: news clippings and magazine articles, advertisements of shows in Jamaica and Trinidad, glossy photos of him performing on “The Steve Allen Show” and the Jack Paar show. (He also performed on “The Ed Sullivan Show.”) In some of the photos, Cheng is dressed in a silk robe, marking him as Chinese; in others, he sports the sharp suit or flowy shirt of a nineteen-sixties lounge singer. He wears a broad, blissful smile in nearly all of the pictures.

Cheng saw music as a way of reaching people outside his predominantly Chinese-speaking world. His ability to sing in different languages allowed him to tour throughout the West Indies, catering to communities of Chinese immigrants, and, after a successful string of shows in Suriname, he secured a hotel-lounge gig in Trinidad and Tobago, where he performed a repertoire that included songs in English, French, German, Italian, Spanish, and Chinese. He became a minor star. In the late sixties, he worked with the local government to stage a series of shows as a benefit for the National Stadium of Trinidad, bringing, as he would later write, “the Chinese out of the confines of the strictly Chinese community to work with the other racial groups for the benefit of their whole country.” His fame spread to Jamaica. On a visit sponsored by the Chinese Benevolent Association, he met Byron Lee, a renowned Chinese-Jamaican musician, and they recorded “Always Together.”

Back in New York, in the early seventies, Cheng started a band called the Dragon Seeds. (Byron Lee had a band called the Dragonaires, though it’s likely the similarity is a coincidence.) Among the files that Cheng’s children brought was a draft of a press release that described the Dragon Seeds’ approach to blending Chinese traditional song with a softened version of American rock—“a new Chinese folk rock sound,” minus the “screaming.” Trying to imagine what the Dragon Seeds actually sounded like was dizzying. Reviews described Cheng’s singing as “attractive,” “sensitive,” and “attractively unassuming”; the Times praised his “superior way of reacting to the moods of each song.” The band’s lineup featured twelve musicians playing Chinese instruments, surrounding a four-piece jazz band. They played the Public Theatre and benefits for Chinatown churches. In 1971, they were invited to be part of Jazz in the Garden, a Museum of Modern Art concert series that also included legends of jazz, blues, and Latin music. The program included Elvin Jones, Odetta, Big Mama Thornton, and Mongo Santamaría among the performers. Cheng and the Dragon Seeds was the only act that I had not previously heard of, the only one that hadn’t left an obvious legacy.

Stephen Cheng, August, 1971.
Photograph by Leonardo Le Grand / MOMA

Some time after Danielle dropped off the files, she provided a couple of reels of quarter-inch tape, one recorded in Jamaica, presumably with a local band, and the other a live Dragon Seeds set from Town Hall. It seemed possible that the second reel represented the entirety of the Dragon Seeds’ extant recordings.

So much of what we know about immigrant life, even in the not very distant past, is thanks to hoarding and scavenging, rather than the sort of careful personal archiving one sometimes sees among the more powerful and well-to-do. When we were putting together “The Moon Represents My Heart,” we wanted things that could bring shape and texture to the role that music had played in Chinese-American life, and I thought it would be easy to find personal mementos and fan-club membership cards, mixtapes or photos of epic karaoke nights. But, when you don’t see yourself as part of a scene or a movement, you may not think such things need to be saved. Immigrants have not tended to regard their own lives as rising to the status of history. Sometimes they simply don’t have the room or the resources to keep records of their lives.

We converted Cheng’s reels into audio files, but I was hesitant to listen. Lost artifacts are almost always better in the imagination, burnished by hope and yearning. When we pressed play, I was captivated by Cheng’s voice. He croons with a kind of desperate earnestness. There were standards, such as “The Shadow of Your Smile” or “Softly as I Leave You,” that I’d heard hundreds of times before, but never with his amateurish zeal, which soars above his band’s tasteful, jazzy pop. He sings with a slight accent and seems to compensate for it by singing louder, with more passion. There’s a groovy song inspired by the Chinese tale of the “Butterfly Lovers”; he races through English-language lyrics about lovers reuniting in heaven,
accentuating his words with a series of delirious, scat-like trills and the Chinese expression “Ai-ya! Ai-ya!”

The Dragon Seeds fizzled out after a few years, and Cheng redirected much of his energy from performance to teaching. He gave voice lessons at the New School, N.Y.U., the Stella Adler Conservatory, and Sarah Lawrence College. In 1991, he published “The Tao of Voice: A New East-West Approach to Transforming the Singing and Speaking Voice,” a book that tried to fuse ancient Chinese philosophy and breathing practices with Western vocal technique. It wasn’t intended only for aspiring performers: Cheng wanted to help all kinds of people feel confident using their voices, whether to sing or to give presentations at work.

The reels that Cheng’s children brought didn’t contain other rocksteady gems like “Always Together,” though the Dragon Seeds did record
a more traditional version of “Girl from Ali Shan.”


There was also a funky version of another Chinese folk song, “Girls from Daban City.” On all of the tracks, Cheng sounds impossibly hopeful, as though his effervescence can’t be contained, and he can’t help but share it. His performance spans styles and eras: he affects a heavy vibrato croon here and lightly tiptoes through syllables there, occasionally flitting between English and Mandarin. The song I can’t stop listening to is his version of “Yesterday.” The recording begins with a dutiful polish, but soon Cheng breaks free of the cool economy of the Beatles’ original, and begins singing with a kind of operatic gusto. It’s a song about longing and memory, and he’s trying to sing it into tomorrow.

“The Moon Represents My Heart: Music, Memory and Belonging” is on view at the Museum of Chinese in America, in New York, until September 29th.

Félix Auger-Aliassime Is Trying to Stay Calm

August 24, 2019 | News | No Comments

Some tennis players leave an afterimage in the mind. Roger Federer flying into a forehand, his gaze lasered on the point of contact. Serena Williams with a flexed arm and clenched fist after serving an ace, roaring, “Come on!” Novak Djokovic sliding into a shot, his core balanced and legs akimbo. Rafael Nadal twirling his racquet over his head, his mouth a glorious snarl.

When I think of Félix Auger-Aliassime, I think of his split step. It’s not a flashy movement, not something that you’d put on a poster. It’s an automatic motion, drilled into players from a young age as the best way to balance the body and prepare the feet to move quickly in any direction. But, when Auger-Aliassime split-steps, my eyes are drawn to him. There is something regal about it, a suggestion of potential power.

Auger-Aliassime is tall—six feet four, with a high fade that lends him a couple more inches. He has broad shoulders, a tapered waist, and, like many tennis players, surprisingly slender arms. But his legs are tree trunks. When he hops into that slight squat, preparing to step toward the ball, his back, straight, forms a slight angle with his hips; his head is high and still, parallel to the racquet in his hands. Then comes the burst of speed. What’s striking is the solidity of his legs and the lightness of his feet beneath them: he seems at once grounded and practically floating.

He has the glory shots—a leaping scissor-kick backhand, a running forehand whip, jaw-dropping drop volleys—but they flow from that ready position. Take a typical highlight from his win over his fellow-Canadian Vasek Pospisil in the first round of the Rogers Cup, earlier this month. In the second game of the match, Auger-Aliassime sent down a middling serve right into the strike zone of Pospisil’s backhand; the toss and follow-through of his service motion carried him far into the court. Pospisil leaped on the ball and sent back a deep return. Auger-Aliassime was caught in no man’s land, between the baseline and the service line, but he remained calm: in a fluid sequence, he split-stepped, took a stride back and to his left, and caught the ball with his backhand. Pospisil was closing on the net, assuming that Auger-Aliassime’s reply, if he managed one, would be a weak floater that he could knock away. Instead, it was a perfectly placed passing shot. There was a lot to marvel at in the exchange—the softness of Auger-Aliassime’s hands as he half-volleyed a ball that was almost past him, the strength to control its trajectory from an awkward position, the imagination to try the shot at all—but none of that was as impressive to me as the way he recovered from being out of position. He didn’t scramble. He was ready.

Auger-Aliassime turned nineteen on August 8th—the same day, as it happens, that Roger Federer turned thirty-eight, exactly twice the younger man’s age. Auger-Aliassime is not the only rising star in men’s tennis who is expected to win grand slams someday, but he is the youngest, and is already talked about in the same breath as Top Ten players. Two years ago, after his seventeenth birthday, he became the youngest man to break into the Top Two Hundred since Rafael Nadal did it, in 2002. In May, he became the youngest man to enter the Top Twenty-five since Lleyton Hewitt did it, in 1999. (He’s now at No. 19.) “He’s probably the one that I like the most from the young generation, as a tennis player and as a person, I think,” Djokovic said when asked about him, in July. In late 2017, Federer invited Auger-Aliassime to train with him in Dubai for a couple of weeks, offering not much in the way of advice but something potentially more valuable: a close view of his own example. “I was mainly surprised by how hard he works,” Auger-Aliassime said, adding, “If he does that at thirty-seven, well, I had better start working, too.”

The larger public got its first real look at Auger-Aliassime last year, at the U.S. Open, when he faced his friend and countryman Denis Shapovalov, in the first round. For two sets, on a hot day, the players—at once intimate and contrasting—thrilled the crowd with a tight match. But then Auger-Aliassime brought on the trainer, who pulled out a stethoscope to listen to his heart rate; in the third set, Auger-Aliassime visibly began to fade. Down 4–1, his heart racing too fast, he retired from the match. The two friends embraced at the net, and Auger-Aliassime broke down, sobbing into Shapovalov’s shoulder.

He moved on quickly, in the way the young can do. His condition was benign, the match withdrawal necessary but not alarming. That night, he hung out with Shapovalov in Shapovalov’s hotel room and just “chilled,” Shapovalov told me. By breakfast, Auger-Aliassime was smiling. At the start of the year, he had broken into the Top Hundred. This year, he has made three finals and two semifinals. He twice beat Stefanos Tsitsipas, who is only two years older than Auger-Aliassime but is already ranked fifth in the world. After the second time, Tsitsipas called him “the most difficult opponent I’ve ever faced.” He added, “I’m sure if he ever gets the difficult chance to play Nadal, Djokovic, or Federer, he’s going to beat them, for sure.” Auger-Aliassime lost to Nadal a few weeks later.

When Wimbledon rolled around, the oddsmakers pegged Auger-Aliassime as the sixth-favorite to win it, behind only Tsitsipas, Alexander Zverev, and the three men who have dominated the game for the past fifteen years—Nadal, Federer, and Djokovic. Tsitsipas and Zverev promptly lost in the first round, leaving only the big three as better bets to win. “I thought it was crazy,” Auger-Aliassime told me a month later, on a hot evening in Washington, D.C. He laughed. “I was telling my coaches, ‘People need to relax.’ ” Prior to Wimbledon, Auger-Aliassime had never won a grand-slam match.

In truth, any bet against Djokovic, Federer, or Nadal winning Wimbledon was probably a bad one—and Auger-Aliassime knew it. He defeated Pospisil in the first round, and the young French player Corentin Moutet in the second, before being upset by another young Frenchman, Ugo Humbert, in the third. Humbert subsequently lost to Djokovic, who won it all.

When I talked with Auger-Aliassime about the hype surrounding him at Wimbledon, he told me, “I think people also maybe wanted a story.” For a long time, there has only been one story in men’s tennis: the three best players in the history of the sport challenging one another year after year after year. It’s a fantastic story, an epic—long and twisting, full of tension and surprise, with well-developed characters and distinct rivalries. But, to many in tennis, the lack of legitimate challengers—and the fact that the gap between the top players and the field only seems to be growing—has become disconcerting. Djokovic, Federer, and Nadal have won the last eleven straight slams. Except for a ten-month stretch, when Andy Murray was ranked No. 1, the world’s top spot has been held by Djokovic, Federer, or Nadal since February, 2004. (Auger-Aliassime was three years old then.) No player currently under the age of thirty has ever won a major title. Dominic Thiem is the only player born after 1990 even to make a grand-slam final or semifinal.

Auger-Aliassime was born in 2000, in Montreal. His mother, Marie Auger, is a French-Canadian schoolteacher; his father, Sam Aliassime, is a tennis instructor from Togo. Along with Pospisil, Shapovalov, Bianca Andreescu, and Milos Raonic, he is part of a cohort of rising Canadian tennis stars who are the children of immigrants or who are immigrants themselves. “We all arrived in Canada at a young age or, like myself, were born there,” he said. “We all consider ourselves a hundred per cent Canadian. But different routes, different backgrounds—I think that gives us an opening on the world.” Auger-Aliassime credits the immigrant mentality of his father with inspiring his own work ethic. “I know for my part it helped, seeing what my dad had to sacrifice to come to Canada, leaving all his family behind,” he said. “I think he really gave us the tools and the education that you have to work, you have to earn your place in this world.”

Auger-Aliassime’s family moved to Quebec City when he was still a child. He grew up watching tennis in person, at the academy where his father worked, and on television—he would watch Wimbledon finals and then run around the house, telling his father that he was training to be in one. He played in his first tournament when he was six, and reached the final. He has a vivid memory of the 2008 Wimbledon final, between Federer and Nadal, often called the greatest match ever played. He recorded it on a VHS tape and watched it over and over on a small television in his room.

It was his dream to become a great player—and it was his father’s dream, too. His mother was more wary. When Auger-Aliassime started to travel to tournaments at a young age, his mother, Marie, worried about him missing school, and missing out on childhood. She emphasized schoolwork and encouraged him to take piano lessons. (This spring, wearing a bow tie and jacket, he performed at the Monte-Carlo Masters players’ party.) When Auger-Aliassime and his father came home from the courts at the end of the day, they were not allowed to talk about tennis. His mother, he said, wanted him to be “a normal person.”

But Auger-Aliassime is not normal—not as a tennis player, anyway. “He is different,” the young American prospect Reilly Opelka said, after playing him in Washington. “That’s one thing you will find in common with all the great players,” he added. “They are different.” That much was clear even when Auger-Aliassime was barely more than a boy. At fourteen, he began working on his game at Canada’s National Training Centre, in Montreal, and, a few months later, became the youngest player ever to win a main-draw match on the Challenger circuit, the level just below the men’s tour. He made deep runs in the major junior tournaments, reaching the finals of the 2016 junior French Open and winning the junior U.S. Open later that year. He won three Challenger titles before he turned seventeen. He played his first tour-level match in February, 2018. In it, he hit forty-nine winners, saved three match points, and eventually lost, to the world No. 38, Filip Krajinovic.

When Auger-Aliassime was still playing juniors, agents filled the stands at his matches. Commentators told one another to head to the outer courts to catch a few of his games. There have been tennis prodigies before, of course, including some younger ones; a handful of men won their first major when they were seventeen. But careers were built differently then: there was less money, less science, less of a premium placed on experience. No one dreamed of players sustaining their peaks into—let alone throughout—their thirties.

What made Auger-Aliassime different, from the beginning, was that he doesn’t play like a phenom. He is neither a counterpuncher who finds ways to win nor a kid who gets hot and hits the court’s white lines. He plays in the modern baseliner style: big serve, decent return, strong on both the backhand and forehand wings. But his game is eerily efficient. He is always balanced—there’s that split step—which helps his quickness. However hard he hits the ball, his power seems harnessed. He has a short backswing, fantastic racquet-head speed, and clean technique, which allows the ball to pop off the strings. His movements are precise and consistent, even on the run or under pressure. He’s not afraid to go for winners, but he knows when to hold back and how to calibrate his shots—showing a kind of restraint that few players, let alone teen-agers, master. He understands, too, how much of that self-control comes from training the mind, not just the body. He began visualization exercises when he was seven or eight, and he rarely seems flustered. Paul Annacone, who has coached Pete Sampras and Roger Federer, told me that this quality of Auger-Aliassime’s reminds him of those players. When he makes a mistake, he doesn’t panic. More than one person mentioned to me that he asks for a towel after making an error, as if to wipe it from his mind. He moves on.

Usually. Auger-Aliassime is excellent when the stakes are highest; the stats bear that out. The A.T.P.’s “under pressure rating,” a metric that combines break-point results with deciding sets and tiebreaks, has him as the sixth best on tour, just behind Nadal. But he is hardly immune to tension—especially on his second serve, the most psychologically taxing of shots. Miss it, and the returner has a free point. Make it weakly, and the returner can seize the better court position. Hit it well, and the advantage stays with you. Double faults happen, of course—and there are instances where it makes sense to risk one—but among the better players they are rare. Federer, Nadal, and Djokovic average about two a game. Auger-Aliassime? Nearly five.

They have come, on occasion, at bad moments, or in bunches. In March, during his semifinal match against John Isner at the Miami Open, one of the biggest tournaments of the year, he was serving for the first set, at 5–3, when he had a double fault, and then another. On Isner’s break point, Auger-Aliassime took his time, his stance wide. He lowered his racquet into his windup and tossed up the ball, sliding his feet together and rising to strike his serve. But it was a stiff and hurried motion, and the ball clipped the top of the net and fell—his third double fault of the game. Serving for the second set, again at 5–3, he tightened up once more. Isner won both sets in tiebreaks, and so the match. “It’s like I caught a virus or something,” Auger-Aliassime said afterward.

It wasn’t an isolated occasion. At the Citi Open, in Washington, D.C., on August 1st, Auger-Aliassime played Marin Cilic, who was hitting particularly aggressive returns. Auger-Aliassime responded with eleven double faults. Soon after, at the Canadian Open, playing in front of a fervid home-town crowd, he lost to the eighth-ranked Karen Khachanov, 6–7(7), 7–5, 6–3. He had twelve double faults in the match. At the Western & Southern Open, in Cincinnati, his final tournament before the U.S. Open, in a match against the qualifier Miomir Kecmanovic, he hit three double faults on his first five second-serve points. He finished the match with ten—and an astonishing double-fault rate of more than twenty per cent.

This is partly the result of a tactical decision: Auger-Aliassime, like a number of the top young players, goes for more on his second serve than most. But there are also mechanical issues at play, clearly. You can see how his slow preparation could develop kinks; his racquet can decelerate as he whips it around. His ball toss wanders, sometimes by as much as a foot. But technical issues are, by his own admission, related to psychological ones. Pressure causes physiological changes. “You get physically tight,” he told me this summer. “That’s chemical. Your brain just sends signals. Your arm gets heavy. You can’t go against it. It just comes.” It came at Wimbledon, when he lost to Humbert, a young and lower-ranked player. “It got to a point where it was a bit embarrassing,” he said afterward. The pressure “is not easy to deal with at my age,” he said in Washington, adding, “It’s all pretty and nice on TV. But, in my head, sometimes it’s not all pretty.”

The more he succeeds, the more he puts himself in these situations, getting deeper into matches and tournaments. Then, sometimes, he succumbs. This is how it works, of course: athletes build resilience through experience, or they break down. Federer was famously hotheaded when he was Auger-Aliassime’s age. For years, Djokovic was known for being a little bit frail mentally. Auger-Aliassime wants to follow their trajectories toward inner toughness. His goal at the start of the year was to break into the Top Fifty; now, he is on the cusp of the Top Twenty. Federer, Nadal, and Djokovic were “like gods, or almost gods” to him once, when he was a child. These days, he’s looking to beat them, and he believes that he can. But he knows that they are still better than he is; he continues to study their tactics in big moments, to learn what they do differently from him.

And what is that? “If I knew it, I would probably do it!” he told me. He added, “They know how to play in big moments. They know how to handle themselves. I think that’s something that you can’t learn that fast. You need some time. You need some years inside of you. I don’t want to rush it.”

In the meantime, he will face Shapovalov again, on Monday, in the first round of the U.S. Open. This time, he is the favorite, the seeded player, and is under the greater pressure. It isn’t easy to play good friends, Auger-Aliassime acknowledged when we spoke. “You don’t have the same desire to beat them,” he said. They know each other so well. But no matter the opponent, he says, he wants to be motivated more by respect than by revenge. “Every loss—that player showed me what I need to improve.” It doesn’t sound like a cliché when he says it. This is simply where he is now, readying himself for what comes.

Trump Clarification Syndrome

August 24, 2019 | News | No Comments

In December, 2003, the columnist Charles Krauthammer made a brief return to his first career, as a psychiatrist. Writing in the Washington Post, he said, “It has been 25 years since I discovered a psychiatric syndrome (for the record: ‘Secondary Mania,’ Archives of General Psychiatry, November 1978), and in the interim I haven’t been looking for new ones. But it’s time to don the white coat again. A plague is abroad in the land. Bush Derangement Syndrome: the acute onset of paranoia in otherwise normal people in reaction to the policies, the presidency—nay—the very existence of George W. Bush.”

Krauthammer, who studied psychiatry at Harvard Medical School before becoming disenchanted with the profession, wryly, if predictably, located the worst of the “epidemic” on the Upper West Side of Manhattan and in “the tonier parts of Los Angeles.” Some of the most acute sufferers, he said, included Barbra Streisand, Paul Krugman, Bill Moyers, and John Dean. The leading institutional culprit was the liberal media. “The sad news is that there is no cure,” he concluded. “But there is hope. There are many fine researchers seeking that cure. Your donation to the BDS Foundation, no matter how small, can help. Mailing address: Republican National Committee, Washington, D.C., Attention: psychiatric department. Just make sure your amount does not exceed $2,000 ($4,000 for a married couple).”

This specimen of op-ed high jinks came not long after the American invasion of Iraq. Some joke. No matter. The phrase “Bush Derangement Syndrome” stuck around for years, a deflector shield wielded by right-wing gladiators, even as the invasion proved a colossal disaster and the economy, thanks in part to the Administration’s enthusiasm for deregulation, sank into its worst slump since the Great Depression. The implication was that the real culprits of the era were not the policymakers in the White House but the critics baying their irrational ravings.

Krauthammer spent his political youth as a liberal-ish speechwriter for Walter Mondale and ended up a neocon on Fox News. Asked once about his rightward journey, he remarked, “I was young once.” But, as deep as his conservatism ran, Krauthammer, who died last year, refused to get in line with Donald Trump. (In 2016, he voted for an unnamed third-party candidate.) “I used to think Trump was an eleven-year-old, an undeveloped bully,” he wrote in the Post, in an analysis that was as much psychiatric as it was political. “I was off by about ten years. His needs are more primitive, an infantile hunger for approval, and praise, a craving that can never be satisfied. He lives in a cocoon of solipsism where the world outside himself has value—indeed exists—only insofar as it sustains and inflates him.” Trump, naturally, responded with his customary Burkean eloquence, tweeting that Krauthammer was “a dummy” and “an overrated clown.”

Since the last election, many Republican politicians and pundits have updated Krauthammer’s phrase and have used “Trump Derangement Syndrome” to describe what they see as a mass of mush-minded lefties who lose their minds at the mere mention of the President’s name. Just a few weeks ago, the publisher, author, and convicted felon Conrad Black, who, coincidentally, received a full pardon from Trump last year, trotted it out for a piece in National Review.

But it is hard to know what such defenders make of their hero after, say, these recent August days, in which Trump has, in no particular order, uttered, then repeated, an anti-Semitic slur about the “loyalty” of Jewish Democrats; expressed admiration for the “legendary” industrialist Henry Ford, who was also the publisher of “The International Jew: The World’s Foremost Problem”; retweeted praise from a conspiracy-mongering radio host who said that Trump is practically “the King of Israel” and “the second coming of God”; reneged on a promise to establish background checks for gun buyers, after checking in for moral guidance with Wayne LaPierre, of the National Rifle Association; doubled down on a trade war with China that threatens to help spark a self-imposed recession; and cancelled a trip to Denmark because the Danish leadership had rebuffed his desire to buy Greenland in a manner that Trump, a stickler for etiquette, thought was “very not nice.” In the midst of an extended, hallucinatory press session out on the White House lawn, with Marine One providing an ominous “Apocalypse Now” chopper roar to the scene, Trump gazed briefly at the sky and remarked, “I am the Chosen One.”

One might ask Lord Black of Crossharbour and other Trumpists, Who exactly is deranged here? Is there still some mystery?

Again and again, Trump’s top advisers––Daniel Coats, Gary Cohn, James Mattis, Rex Tillerson, H. R. McMaster, and John Kelly among them––have left the White House clutching their heads, their dignity and nerves in rags, realizing that they have served a President who is unreachable, beyond cure and counsel; a man of rotten character, blatant instability, and zero empathy; an empty but radically dangerous human being, who occupies the highest office in the land. “I think the guy is losing it, mentally,” Anthony Scaramucci, the six-day White House communications director, said recently, after watching another sweaty performance by the President. While Scaramucci can hardly claim Charles Krauthammer’s medical training, it becomes increasingly impossible to contradict such a diagnosis. And yet does this week seem markedly different from other soul-depleting weeks in which the President of the United States, who dismisses the transformation of the global climate as a “Chinese hoax,” lays waste to countless environmental laws and tweets racist canards that inspire the dark imaginings of mass shooters? Trump seems perilously close to some kind of final unwinding. Just today, he tweeted, “My only question is, who is our bigger enemy, [Federal Reserve Chairman] Jay Powell or Chairman Xi?”

But, as perilous and unnerving as things are, any form of political despair at such a moment remains unforgivable. Despair is a form of self-indulgence, a dodge. Trump’s derangements in policy and character should instead instill a kind of Trump Clarification Syndrome, a reckoning with what confronts us. A reckoning, as the Amazon rain forest burns, with climate change. A reckoning, as Trump threatens to revoke the barest protections for immigrant children and the guarantee of birthright citizenship, with the history and persistence of bigotry in all forms. With the structural persistence of inequality of income and opportunity. With matters of truth and falsehood. Trump’s presence in the White House is depressing, there is no doubt, but to wallow in that gloom, or even to imagine that public life will “return to normal” on its own after his departure, is insufficient, even inexcusable. Democrats, Independents, and Republicans who cannot countenance Trumpist politics ought to welcome the most urgent kind of political debate on matters of policy and on who we are as a country. Perhaps it is a form of derangement to say it, but it’s entirely possible that Donald Trump, who has been such a ruinous figure on the public scene, has at least done the country an unintended service by clarifying some of our deepest flaws and looming dangers in his uniquely lurid light.

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Who’s Laughing Now?

August 24, 2019 | News | No Comments

They laughed when I farted during my fourth-grade graduation, but, given that human methane is the only natural resource left on the planet, who’s laughing now?

They laughed when I had an imaginary friend in middle school, but, given that the air is toxic, going outside is against the law, and talking to holograms is the only way to maintain mental stability, who’s laughing now?

They laughed when I was caught eating my own boogers at summer camp, but, given that all the crops are dead and boogers have been found to be rich in iron, who’s laughing now?

They laughed when I had buck teeth in high school, but, given that canned goods are the only safe food and the ultra-wealthy have hoarded all the can openers, who’s laughing now?

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They laughed when I slept with a stuffed-animal beaver into my twenties, but, given that Franklin is the only remaining evidence of the existence of semi-aquatic rodents, who’s laughing now?

They laughed when I wore business-casual cargo shorts to a job interview, but, given that ninety-five per cent of buildings are filled with knee-high dengue-infested swamp water, who’s laughing now?

They laughed when I insisted that we practice fire-safety protocol at the office Christmas party, but, given that throwing yourself to the ground and aggressively rolling around is the only way to outsmart the ravenous living dead, who’s laughing now?

They laughed when I got an erection during a fund-raising presentation, but, given that the drinking water has made most men impotent and the human race is on the verge of petering out, who’s laughing at my valuable boners now?

They laughed when my fiancée left me for my brother, but, given that married couples were the first to be sent to the ice fires, who’s laughing now?

They laughed when I married a Sears mannequin I found on eBay, but, given that human women are dying of a mutant strain of tetanus, who’s laughing at my beloved Cassandra now?

They laughed when I had a mental breakdown on account of all the laughing, but, given that padded cells are the only insulated spaces left on Earth, who’s laughing now?!

They laughed when I cursed Earth and hastened the apocalypse, but, given that the planet is a barren wasteland and there’s no one left to laugh, who’s laughing now?

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Marcello Sanguineti racconta il BMC International Winter Climbing Meet 2012, il meeting di arrampicata invernale che si è svolto dall’22 al 29 gennaio 2012 in Scozia e al quale hanno partecipato 39 ospiti da 26 paesi diversi.

BMC International Winter Climbing Meet (IWCM) 2012: What a week!
Marcello Sanguineti (CAAI – Gruppo Occidentale)

Gennaio 2012: navigando in rete capito sul sito del British Mountaineering Council (BMC) e leggo “the BMC International Meet is back for 2012 and returns to the Cairngorms!” Subito, gli occhi della mente si aprono sulle montagne scozzesi e i loro assurdi equilibri di ghiaccio e neve sparata dal vento contro le rocce, mentre a poche centinaia di metri in linea d’aria si vede l’oceano. In una manciata di secondi ripercorro le stupende giornate vissute negli anni scorsi sul misto scozzese. “Devo andarci!” – dico a me stesso. Non ho scelta: ormai sono nuovamente vittima dell’effetto-Scozia. Mi viene in mente, però, che l’IWCM è a numero chiuso: in ciascuna edizione (una ogni tre anni), il BMC invita uno/due alpinisti in rappresentanza di ciascuno dei principali Paesi le cui associazioni alpinistiche fanno parte dell’UIAA. Purtroppo l’invito agli italiani, inviato dal BMC nell’Ottobre scorso, è andato perso nei meandri della burocrazia e del server di posta elettronica del CAI e non è mai arrivato al CAAI, che avrebbe provveduto ad inviare uno dei suoi membri… Ma non mi rassegno: mi precipito all’email e scrivo a Becky, che cura l’organizzazione del meeting, per sapere se c’è ancora un posto disponibile. Lei si dà da fare e all’ultimo momento la sistemazione per me salta fuori. Dopo alcune notti in bianco per buttarmi avanti con il lavoro, il 21 gennaio faccio scalo a Londra e poi atterro a Inverness.

In tarda serata arrivo al Glenmore Lodge, l’attrezzatissima struttura che ospita i partecipanti (con tanto di sala conferenze, muro di arrampicata indoor, piscina, sauna, bar con ampia scelta di birre, mensa, ecc ecc) situata nei pressi di Aviemore, un paesino dell’Inverness-shire, nel cuore del Cairngorms National Park. Mi trovo immerso in un ambiente cosmopolita: una quarantina di alpinisti del Regno Unito e altrettanti guests stranieri, provenienti da Belgio, Canada, Croazia, Repubblica Ceca, Danimarca, Finlandia, Grecia, Francia, Germania, Galles, Inghilterra, Irlanda, Israele, Giappone, Lettonia, Lussemburgo, Olanda, Norvegia, Polonia, Romania, Scozia, Slovacchia, Slovenia, Sudafrica, Spagna, Serbia, Svezia e Stati Uniti.

L’organizzazione di Nick Colton (proprio lui, quello delle Droites e delle Grandes Jorasses: che piacere parlargli e farsi raccontare aneddoti e particolari su quelle mitiche salite!) e Becky Mc Govern è perfetta. Ogni due giorni, la sera si svolge l’assegnazione dei climbing partners: ciascun guest straniero viene “accoppiato” ad un arrampicatore host. Poi ci si sposta al bar, dove le nuove cordate familiarizzano davanti a varie pinte di birra, discutono il programma per il giorno successivo e scelgono le vie. Per le salite più brevi la colazione è alle 7:30, mentre chi punta a scalate di maggior sviluppo e con lunghi avvicinamenti è previsto un early breakfast a partire dalle 4:15. Inutile dire che la maggior parte delle mattine la mia sveglia suonerà alle 4…

La settimana di scalate con i local mi porterà su alcune delle pareti che offrono il meglio dell’arrampicata invernale scozzese. Dal Lochnagar, nei Cairngorms del sud, con suoi i pilastri separati dalla splendida Eagle Ridge e dal Black Spout Pinnacle, al Càrn an Etchachan – che racchiude le migliori fessure ghiacciate e i più interessanti camini gelati della zona – e alla Shelter Stone Crag sopra il Loch Avon, nei Cairngorms del nord, fino al Beinn Eighe, nel Torridion (Northern Highlands) famoso per i Triple Bettresses. Giorno dopo giorno scopro l’enorme quantità di winter climbs della Scozia, che avevo soltanto intuito durante le mie precedenti visite – dedicate ai classici Ben Nevis, Creag Meagaidh e Northern Corries. Per saperne di più sulle montagne scozzesi, un vero concentrato di avventura e problemi tecnici, vi consiglio di cliccare furiosamente su qui, dove si trova il blog creato da Simon Richardson “to celebrate the world of Scottish winter climbing”.

Ma torniamo al Glenmore Lodge. Ogni giorno, al rientro dalle scalate, la folla multietnica del meeting si dà il cambio nella drying room, dove si svolge il “rito di stesura” del materiale. Il tipico meteo invernale scozzese, infatti, prevede quasi quotidianamente neve o nevischio in alto e pioggia in basso (il tutto, come si sa, condito dai famigerati venti e dall’immancabile nebbia, che rende la bussola uno strumento indispensabile per il rientro). Appendere il materiale nella drying room è quindi indispensabile per avere qualche chance che l’indomani sia almeno parzialmente asciutto (leggi: non troppo bagnato). È la realtà della scalata invernale da queste parti, realtà che ha segnato tutte le mie permanenze in Scozia tranne una settimana nel febbraio 2010, incredibilmente caratterizzata da buona visibilità e venti modesti: a detta dei local, una situazione del tutto anomala. Prendere o lasciare: è ciò che rende la Scozia così affascinante per chi è disposto a “soffrire” un po’ e così inavvicinabile per i tanti ghiacciatori alpini che “fanno gli splendidi” sulle colate rese abbaglianti dal sole generoso delle nostre latitudini.

Al termine di ogni giornata, il programma del meeting prevede un evento serale nel Lecture Theatre annesso al Glemnore Lodge. Inizia Simon Richardson, con la presentazione panoramica “Scottish winter climbing”. Il giorno successivo è la volta di Simon Yearsley. Il suo slideshow, “New Scottish routes in out of the way places”, schiude le porte verso l’enorme potenziale di apertura di vie invernali che ancora esiste nelle Highlands. Poi è la volta del canadese Jen Olsen, con “Icefall Brook – A remote buffet of waterfall ice first ascents in the Canadian Rockies”. Nick Bullock offre la divertentissima ed estemporanea presentazione “Must get (stronger, fitter, better…)”, seguito venerdì 27 dal condensato di vie dure su misto scozzese presentate da Greg Boswell e Will Sim. Chiude lo svedese Magnus Kastengren, che ci porta a spasso in Tibet con immagini dal Nyenchen Tanglha.

Il meeting si chiude sabato 28; per il dopo-cena il programma recita: “final night party with live DJ, dancing, fun, and general merry making!!”. Mentre vengono proiettate le più belle foto di scalata scattate dai partecipanti, la musica fa da sfondo al rumore dei brindisi. L’indomani mattina non si partirà alla volta del misto, ma le numerose pinte di birra consumate renderanno la sveglia ancor più dura di quella degli early breakfast…

Insomma, un evento riuscitissimo: misto stupendo, vento e nebbia da “true conditions” scozzesi (per dirla alla Don Whillans), atmosfera amichevole, perfetta organizzazione e – non da ultimo- lager e guinness di ottima qualità e whisky dall’indimenticabile sentore torbato.

Visto che si parla di meeting di arrampicata, concludo segnalandovi la seconda edizione dell’International Trad Climbing Meet che si svolgerà in Valle dell’Orco dal 16 al 22 settembre 2012, organizzato dal Club Alpino Accademico Italiano (CAAI) e già annunciato anche sul sito del BMC. La speranza è quella di “bissare” il successo dell’edizione 2010, della quale vari partecipanti all’IWCM Meet scozzese, presenti anche al nostro meeting del 2010, mi hanno parlato con entusiasmo (qui potete leggere il report di Tom Randall). Presto troverete aggiornamenti all’indirizzo www.tradclimbing.it, la pagina web dell’International Trad Climbing Meet 2012 in Valle dell’Orco.

Grazie a CAAI, BMC, Trango World e Grivel

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Via Casarotto a Cima Civetta in solitaria

August 24, 2019 | News | No Comments

Martedi 30 agosto 2011 Fabrizio della Rossa ha realizzato la probabile prima solitaria e una delle pochissime ripetizioni della via Casarotto a Cima Civetta 3.220m (Dolomiti).

La grande parete nord-ovest della Civetta continua ad affascinare. Questa volta a farsi prendere dalle fantastiche pieghe dell’immensa parete è stato Fabrizio della Rossa. Uno che se per descriversi va molto per le spicce (“scalo da circa 10 anni, ho 26 anni, ho vissuto a Udine e poi a Trieste, poi a Barcellona dove faccio base tutt’ora, in attesa di andare a fare la stagione invernale in Alto Adige”) di certo non lo è quando parla della sua passione per l’arrampicata e l’alpinismo. Per esempio, se gli chiedi di parlarti delle vie che ha fatto premette subito che “in generale non ho mai scalato niente di così importante che possa interessare a qualcuno, è che per me l’importanza delle vie che ho fatto è legata alle sensazioni che ho provato, alle amicizie alle quali mi sono legato, alle cose che ho imparato lassù…” Per poi dirti delle ultime che ha salito e, appunto, dei motivi per cui gli sono rimaste impresse. Tipo, tra le tante di livello dalle Dolomiti alla Turchia, quelle di Massimo “Mox” Da Pozzo: “Sognando l’aurora, Da Pozzo vecchio pazzo, Good bye 1999, Excuse moi… La va de qua, Compagni di merenda ecc… tutte vie che mi hanno lasciato sempre di incanto per la bellezza della scalata e anche perché le ho sempre azzeccate a vista! – tranne Da Pozzo Vecchio Pazzo rotpunkt…”.

Questa lunga premessa per dirvi che forse la sua solitaria della via aperta da Renato Casarotto e da Giacomo Albiero dal 15 al 16 settembre 1979, è di quelle che, oltre all’indubbio valore tecnico, mettono in campo anche il cuore dell’alpinista. Un po’ perché questa via- che parte dal “cristallo”, il nevaio perenne posto al centro della nord ovest, e che si raggiunge dopo aver percorso la prima parte della via Solleder – conta davvero pochissime ripetizioni. Un po’ perché la “solitaria” è venuta fuori quasi per caso. Ma anche, e non per ultimo, perché ci ricorda un grande dell’alpinismo come Renato Casarotto. Dunque, a noi sembra ancora una volta il caso di rimarcare che le grandi pareti riservano sempre delle (belle) sorprese e delle “novità” per chi le sa cercare. Come questa via “Casarotto” alla Cima Civetta: un bel fiore da cogliere o, per dirla con le parole di Fabrizio Della Rossa, una via “incredibilmente ispirata… e chi se la saprà meritare, tornerà a casa con un viaggio segreto tra le pieghe della parete.”

PRESUNTA PRIMA SOLITARIA VIA CASAROTTO A CIMA CIVETTA
di Fabrizio della Rossa

Note tecniche poco serie…
Che si può dire al riguardo di una via che nessuno si fila (provate a digitarla in google), che conta sì e no una manciata di ripetizioni, che pure la guida liquida in uno schizzo approssimativo e in meno di 2 righe di descrizione? Che si può dire al riguardo se pure io che volevo fare la Solleder, l’ho ripetuta per errore? Chiarito questo importante punto di mio demerito, penso che la Casarotto sia una via incredibilmente ispirata, e chi se la saprà meritare, tornerà a casa con un viaggio segreto tra le pieghe della parete. Il tracciato segue la Solleder fino al nevaio pensile, da cui si stacca per seguire una linea di diedri e fessure che la foto sulla guida appunto approssima a quella di una grande fessura colatoio visibile a occhio nudo dal rifugio Tissi.

Ora quello che mi piacerebbe fare qui è dare qualche info in più, che invoglino chi legge ad abbracciare la parete nord-ovest lungo questa linea. La descrizione che posso fornire è però tanto approssimativa quanto quella di un folletto a cui si chiede di parlare del suo bosco, lui risponderà con uno sguardo stupito attonito, e in men che non si dica lo si vedrà scomparire arrampicandosi sicuro lungo le fronde dei suoi alberi; e così feci io quel giorno, muovendomi d’istinto tra i meandri di una parete mai stata così famigliare, assorbendo sensazioni indelebili piuttosto che ricordi ineccepibili.

In ogni caso per imboccare la via è necessario, percorrendo i secondi gradi che caratterizzano la parte del nevaio, spingersi decisamente a destra, poi arrivati col naso attaccato alla parete, se ne percorre la cengia fino a che si può farlo camminando. Da lì si imbocca un diedro leggermente inclinato a sinistra, non molto ben definito. Qui non ci sono chiodi di passaggio, però se il diedro è quello giusto voi salite che qualche tiro più in su qualcosa si trova. Un buon punto di riferimento è il tetto giallo anch esso visibile dal Tissi, a sinistra del colatoio. Le lunghezze alla sua altezza sono quelle più impegnative, io sono passato a circa una ventina di metri alla sua destra incontrando sotto di lui un passo duro senza chiodi (strapiombino in traverso a sinistra) e poi un altro con un buon chiodo (strapiombo nero con roccia buona, evitare di prendere la roccia più marcia a destra). Si continua a salire fino a ritrovarsi nel grande colatoio una trentina di metri sotto dove questo si stringe diventando strapiombante marcio e bagnato… Lo si attraversa (sotto la doccia) e si prosegue in un traverso a destra verso l’ignoto (no chiodi, senzazione di: dove vado a finire?). Girato l’angolo si scopre una nuova fessura camino, che vi condurrà all’ultimo passo duro della via (buon chiodo), da lì è tutto un fischiettare verso la cima!!

Un ringraziamento di cuore va ai miei sponsor: Venturino del Torrani e le sue grappe ristoratrici, Walter del Tissi, tutto il Coldai, e specialmente Enza: che ancora ho il sapore della sua torta sotto la lingua!

Note ancora meno serie sulle solitarie…
Quando vivi in una grande città sei circondato in ogni istante della tua giornata da centinaia di persone, ti muovi come una trottola su e giù lungo orizzonti di palazzi e strade, cemento e luci; fino a che non ti ritrovi disorientato: cerchi un margine di umanità in mezzo a tutta questa moltitudine, ma presto ti ritrovi sul marciapiede a spintonare la gente per passare e da loro a essere spintonato, e ti chiedi “ma dove cazzo va tutta sta gente?”, e così finisci col odiare e perdere quell’umanità che stavi cercando.

Se dicessi che sei solo, nessuno ti crederebbe: hai la gola secca a forza di chiacchierare e già le tue mani iniziano a toccare i fianchi di lei, allora ti dimentichi di tutto e pare pure a te stesso che siano solo stronzate. Il giorno dopo però entri nella metro. Nel breve tragitto tra una stazione e l’altra il tempo si ferma, è il posto dove dai corpi accatastati seduti e in piedi la solitudine cola corale come un grido sommesso; e tu guardi la tua disperazione riflessa nelle facce degli altri, che sono specchi della tua. Allora esci e scappi, non sai come ti ritrovi lucido e sereno sotto la parete. Fischietti e inizi a scalare, ti senti libero perchè la solitudine che ti opprimeva fino al giorno prima ora sostiene il tuo peso come una corrente ascensionale spinge il vapore delle nuvole.

Insomma ti senti finalmente a tuo agio, danzi come in un valzer. Sei solo, e li intorno non ce nessuno a ricordartelo. Pensi che ora che sai dove sei, puoi anche smettere di correre e prenderti il tuo tempo, e in questo tempo tentare di afferrare la tua anima, che tanto li non può scappare da nessuna parte. Magari non ce la farai, però quando sei in cima e ti fumi la cicca, ti senti felice come una pasquetta. Tanto che, nel metro poi, già stai pensando alla prossima.

Fabrizio Della Rossa

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