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The Australian Geographic Nature Photographer of the Year exhibit opened this week at the Powerhouse Museum, showcasing the incredible winning entries from this year’s competition. The winners were selected from over 2000 submissions, with Western Australian photographer Mat Beetson’s ‘Fin Whale’s Demise’ announced as the overall winner. Beetson in his winning drone photograph captured the beautifully surreal moment of a Fin whale that was stranded on Cheynes Beach in Albany, WA, whilst being circled by sharks.

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The competition judges Justin Gilligan, Glenn McKimmin and Tui De Roy said that “despite seeing millions of nature photographs over the decades, we have never seen anything that remotely resembles this image. Unique and exciting, it reveals incredible beauty in death… The image surprises by revealing such a shocking scene in a beautiful setting, and speaks volumes of the new dimension the latest technology has opened up for photographers.”

Winners and runner-ups have also been announced for the ten award categories, including New South Wales-based photographer Charles Davis who was awarded the Portfolio Prize for his many entered works, including his heartfelt ‘Big Step, Little Step’ that captures a mother and baby wombat marching up a snow covered hill leaving only small footprints behind in the snowy hillside. Another is the haunting ‘The Watering Hole’ from South Australian Melissa Williams-Brown, who was the winner of the Our Impact award with her photograph of the dried up Cawndilla Creek where animal remains scatter the lakebed, a stark reminder of the ongoing drought Australia is currently experiencing.

See their photographs and others below in our selection of 20 of our favourite entries from the 2019 Australian Geographic Nature Photographer of the Year exhibition.

The work of these photographers along with the other winners and runners-up can be experienced from Wednesday the 21st of August until Sunday the 20th October at the Powerhouse Museum. The Australian Geographic Nature Photographer of the Year competition is produced by the South Australian Museum.

Above: Fin Whale’s Demise by Mat Beetson

Mountain Echidna by Charles Davis (detail)

Bride in the Bath by Melissa Christi

Decorator Crab by Ross Gudgeon

Cradle Mt Possum by Charles Davis

The Heat Run by Scott Portelli

Life in the Sky by Charles Davis

Gliders’ Home by Charles Davis

Spider on Ice by Raoul Slater

Small but Mighty by Richard Smith

The Ghost of the Forest by Marcia Riederer (detail)

Barron Falls by Neil Pritchard (detail)

Through the Curtain by Nick Monk (detail)

King Pair Conversation by Andrew Peacock

Big Step, Little Step by Charles Davis

Texture by Tracey Jennings

In the Dark by Floyd Mallon

The Watering Hole by Melissa Williams-Brown (detail)

Quoll Reflections by Charles Davis

Curious Encounter by Etienne Littlefair (detail)

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It’s remarkable how much time the Democratic Presidential candidates have spent explicating the details of plans that have no chance of becoming law. There is, for example, no possibility at all that the Senate will pass any kind of Medicare for All plan in 2021. But the next President will certainly have a chance to make appointments to the federal judicial bench—with life tenure, no less—and the candidates have had almost nothing to say on the subject. To the extent that Democratic candidates have talked about judges at all, it’s been in the context of opposing Donald Trump’s nominees to the bench. Though the candidates aren’t yet talking about the judiciary, some former officials are trying to force the subject into the political conversation.

A fledgling liberal organization, Demand Justice, is trying to force the candidates to take a stand on a provocative proposal for the next Democratic administration. The group’s founders, Christopher Kang, who helped run judicial selection for President Barack Obama, and Brian Fallon, a former aide to Hillary Clinton and Chuck Schumer, argue that the next President should not nominate any judicial candidates who come out of the world of corporate law. As Kang and Fallon, two insiders to the process, point out, even in Democratic administrations, there is a recurring pattern among nominees to the federal bench: “A typical nominee might have an Ivy League degree and clerkships with one or more respected federal judges,” they write, in a new article in The Atlantic. “But perhaps no qualification is more prevalent than prior work at a major private-sector firm, representing the interests of large corporations.” As they note, roughly sixty per cent of federal appellate judges come from corporate firms.

The moment is especially ripe for this proposal. The story of the Roberts Court is its embrace of corporate power. The court has consistently ruled against labor unions and for big-dollar campaign contributors, polluters, and other wealthy interests. Justices Neil Gorsuch and Brett Kavanaugh, Trump’s appointees to the court, have embraced this agenda and appear likely to push the Court even more dramatically in this direction. Both showed a particular interest in limiting regulations during their time as circuit-court judges. Sheldon Whitehouse, a senator from Rhode Island, has been one of the few Democratic politicians to focus on this issue of corporate power in the courts; he’s even written a book about it. By 2021, it will be especially important to establish some sort of counterweight to this trend, because Trump will have made so many appointments, and because of the possibility of Supreme Court vacancies.

Of course, it’s easy to recognize problems with Kang and Fallon’s proposal. Virtually every private lawyer in the country represents a corporation at one time or another, so it’s difficult to identify with precision what constitutes a “corporate law firm.” Also, many lawyers spend brief periods at firms, even if they devote most of their careers to public service. Sonia Sotomayor was mostly a prosecutor in her pre-judicial career, and Elena Kagan was mostly an academic, but both put in some time at law firms, too. Should that have disqualified them? Indeed, Kang and Fallon’s idea seems like more of a rough guideline than a strict rule. It’s a reminder that even Democratic Presidents like Obama and Bill Clinton have too often limited their searches for judicial candidates to the usual suspects in the usual places—products of selective law schools who work in big law firms. Kang and Fallon write, “There are plenty enough highly qualified individuals with other backgrounds—civil-rights litigators, public defenders, and legal-aid lawyers—that the next president can afford to make identifying new kinds of candidates a priority.” Kang and Fallon are speaking directly to the Presidential candidates, who would be wise to answer, if not to agree.

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Achievable Ways to Feel Accomplished

August 22, 2019 | News | No Comments

Organize your books by color before complaining that you don’t have time to read.

Listen to the last three minutes of the eight podcasts you had almost-but-not-quite completed.

Drink a sip of water at any point during the day—self-care is essential.

Water your plants, and then watch the water leak out while thinking about how you’d be a great mom.

Rearrange furniture (not just yours, anyone’s).

Delete all of your spam e-mails as soon as you wake up and unsubscribe from every self-help-blog newsletter. You already know what you’re doing!

Make a mental note to book “appointments” but don’t specify which ones.

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Write down all the Wi-Fi passwords of every network you’ve ever connected to, just in the off chance you ever return to that same Starbucks in Istanbul.

Charge every electronic device to exactly one hundred per cent, but check constantly to make sure that you stop charging at one hundred per cent, so you don’t kill the battery.

Read that phone addiction kills. Download fourteen new apps to help you use your phone less.

Make your career your top priority. Pitch a half-written essay to several editors you know will never respond. Claim that you’re waiting for feedback on said essay before writing anything new.

Take care of your home by fluffing your pillow, or, if you remember to do it only after you’ve left the apartment, fluff any stray cat you find on the street. Animal rights matter.

Work on nurturing your friendships. Comment “YASSSSS” on your six closest friends’ Instagram stories. You missed two of their weddings.

Make an effort to conserve by bringing a reusable water bottle around with you, then go through six to seven plastic Solo cups at your friend’s houseparty.

Be a good person. Donate twenty dollars to a charity. Spend the rest of the day wondering if you could have spent that money on something useful, like vitamins or those cute earrings.

Foster healthy habits by telling other people to stop eating sugar.

Lie on your floor and wonder what we’re all doing here. Introspection is the most difficult task of all. (It’s true, you learned that from the end of one of your podcasts.)

Finish that half-eaten bag of spicy Cheetos you found on the floor.

Earlier this month, after a man acting on Donald Trump’s lies about a Hispanic “invasion” of the U.S. drove to El Paso, Texas, and killed twenty-two people at a Walmart, Beto O’Rourke hit pause on his Presidential campaign. O’Rourke, who grew up in El Paso, and represented it for six years in Congress, went home to meet with victims and attend vigils, and he seemed to rediscover some of the edge that brought him to national attention last year, during his unsuccessful bid to unseat Texas’s junior senator, Ted Cruz. A day after the shooting, when a reporter asked him if there was anything that Trump could do to “make this any better,” O’Rourke, throwing his hands in the air, said, “Members of the press, what the fuck?” O’Rourke’s preferred speaking style is off the cuff—“No notes!” his campaign likes to remind people—which, in practice, can make him seem searching and unfocussed. But, after the shooting, he homed in. “It’s these questions that you know the answers to,” he told the reporter. “I mean, connect the dots about what he’s been doing in this country.”

On Thursday, O’Rourke delivered a speech that was billed as his return to the trail. He spoke outdoors, with El Paso stretched out behind him, in a park he used to walk through to get from his house to his high school. “I gotta tell you,” O’Rouke said. “There’s some part of me, and it’s a big part of me, that wants to stay here, and be with my family, and be with my community.” He spoke of his “overwhelming pride” in El Paso, and addressed his critics in the Democratic Party who have soured on him as a Presidential candidate. “There have even been some who have suggested that I stay in Texas and run for Senate,” he said. (John Cornyn, Texas’s senior senator, is up for reëlection in 2020.) “But that would not be good enough for this community. That would not be good enough for El Paso. That would not be good enough for this country. We must take the fight directly to the source of this problem.” He meant Trump. And yet, in a way, he agreed with his critics. He didn’t want to return to the campaign trail he’d left behind, where he’d been floundering—bad polls, bad press, bad debate performances. “I know there is a way to do this better—and that came to me last week,” he said. He wouldn’t be going back for corn dogs in Iowa. Instead, he said, he’d go “to those places where Donald Trump has been terrorizing and terrifying and demeaning our fellow-Americans. That’s where you will find me in this campaign.”

Picking up ideas on the fly, reacting to the moment, being open to change—this, too, is O’Rourke’s preferred style. Since Thursday, he has been to Mississippi, Arkansas, Oklahoma, Kansas, and Missouri. These are not early-primary states, they are not general-election swing states, and they are not traditional hubs of Democratic Party fund-raising, and, therefore, they are not places where Presidential candidates spend much of their time. In Arkansas, he stopped by a gun show, where he spoke with venders about background checks. In Oklahoma, he visited the site of the 1921 Tulsa race massacre. In Missouri, he toured “a community of transitional tiny homes and on-site services” for veterans experiencing homelessness. Earlier this year, he told a questioner at an event, “Let me learn from you and not try to pretend that I have the answer.” Now, searching for a way to run the kind of anti-campaign he prefers, he appears to want to elevate that notion to a campaign slogan.

It’s a tempting idea, up to a point. Why should our politicians pretend to know everything? Shouldn’t people outside Iowa and New Hampshire get more of a say in the Democratic Party’s next nominee? But, already, O’Rourke’s campaign has come up against the realities of a Presidential bid. “While focusing on El Paso was absolutely the right thing to do, being off the campaign trail for two weeks has put the campaign at a disadvantage,” his campaign said, in an e-mail to supporters, on Friday. “In fact, our finance team crunched the numbers and we need to raise $467,000 more by the end of this month to close our fundraising gap.”

Was it really the previous two weeks that set O’Rourke back? There was talk of him running for President even before the end of the 2018 Senate race. Then he lost, and those calls were dampened but didn’t go away. It was a moment when the Democratic Party wasn’t at all sure what kind of leader it wanted. But O’Rourke has found it difficult to find broad support outside of Texas. It didn’t help that he wrote meandering blog posts about road-tripping and made a crack about his wife, Amy, raising their kids “sometimes with my help.” More generally, his positions weren’t enough to win the activist left nationally, and his résumé wasn’t enough to impress the more moderate middle. He spoke powerfully about the lessons that El Paso could offer the rest of the nation, but had a harder time convincing people that he understood the rest of that nation. The April Vanity Fair profile that served as his de-facto campaign announcement—“Man, I’m just born to be in it” was the cover quote—has proved a difficult moment to live down. Even at the time, it was an odd thing to say. In retrospect, it is sounding more and more like self-delusion.

On Tuesday, O’Rourke was back in Iowa. Other candidates came into this race having already learned what they want to talk about. Elizabeth Warren tells a story of corruption. Bernie Sanders lectures on inequality. Joe Biden has a case for why Trump must be voted out first and foremost. O’Rourke, even before this latest gambit, wanted his campaign to be a voyage of discovery. “I want to be the leader for this country that we need right now, and that we do not have,” he said on Thursday. But desire alone isn’t a political project. After his visit to Tulsa, he wrote another earnest blog post about what he learned there. A few months ago, he was telling potential voters, “If you own an AR-15, keep it.” Now, after El Paso, he is calling for mandatory gun buybacks and reorienting his entire campaign. It can be maddening to watch a politician stick to a position even when it becomes outdated, hypocritical, or absurd. But watching one change so eagerly and quickly is equally unsettling—even in response to a horror like the El Paso shooting. Unless O’Rourke learns to speak about his experience with something other than earnest awe or surprised heartbreak, his campaign will continue to sound like it is closer to the end than the beginning.

Girl, You’re a Middle-Aged Woman Now

August 21, 2019 | News | No Comments

Mass-media companies, adept at anticipating trends—or at least catching up to them and cashing in—have been busy preparing an exciting range of original TV programs, books, and movies that offer new perspectives on what it means to be “a woman of a certain age.” Here’s some of what we have to look forward to this fall:

“The Middle-Aged Woman on the Train”
Commuter Rachel Watson catches daily glimpses of a seemingly perfect couple from her train window. After the conductor ignores her complaints about being subjected to a daily millennial lovefest, she makes a sign that says “IT WON’T LAST, ASSHOLES,” and holds it up every time she passes the lovebirds. The couple breaks up.

“The Middle-Aged Woman with the Dragon Tattoo”
A Swedish screenwriter, claiming to be investigating the case of a missing woman, seeks help from a fifty-year-old computer hacker, Lisbeth Salander. Listening to his pitch, Lisbeth yawns, the wasp tattoo on her neck flexing loosely. “What, another male writer sensationalizing violent crimes against women?” she says. “Do you already have a movie deal, or is it Netflix?” She presses a button that she installed under her desk after the last six dudes showed up, and a trap door opens under the screenwriter’s feet, dropping him into a pit of vipers.

“Gone Middle-Aged Woman”
When Amy, the once glam, now “crepey” wife of the writer Nick Dunne, goes missing, Nick becomes the prime suspect in her disappearance, until he tells the local police chief that Amy’s fifty-one years old. “Fifty-one?” the police chief replies. “Take the handcuffs off. She’s probably on a yacht-rock cruise.”

“Middle-Aged Woman, Interrupted”
After a small breakdown/hot flash in the organic-produce aisle at Whole Foods, Winona Carter is tenderly placed in a Lyft and rushed away to a spa renowned for its oxygen facials and progressive treatment of college-admissions anxiety. After two weeks of goat yoga and biodynamic-wine-blending classes, Carter refuses to return home. This story of her years hiding in the tunnels beneath the spa’s gardens will bring tears to even the most Botoxed eye.

“Middle-Aged Women”
An exhausted writer and her three best friends, all of them in their fifties, try to make sense of what’s left of life after three fucking decades in New York. Hannah, with her already full plate, wants a boyfriend who stays out of her way. Marnie, divorced and living in the same apartment that she rented in her twenties, craves someone to fill the emptiness—as long as it isn’t her cousin Shoshanna, an N.Y.U. M.F.A. student and the only person in her class eligible for an A.A.R.P. discount. Rounding out the group is Jessa, a devil-may-care bohemian whose confidence masks her fear that her friends will find out that she bought a breezy linen blouse at Eileen Fisher.

“Gossip Middle-Aged Woman”
The privileged premenopausal women of Manhattan’s Upper East Side learn that Serena van der Woodsen is back in town the way they learn all the important news in their lives: from Gossip Bitch’s anonymous posts on the Nextdoor app. No one knows Gossip Bitch’s identity, but everyone in this exclusive circle relies on her updates about the neighborhood’s noise and trash issues—and, now, for speculation about the cause of Serena’s long absence. Could it be rehab? A little more swelling than expected post-surgery? Or is she hiding the body of the latest millennial who called her “ma’am”?

“New Middle-Aged Woman”
After a bad breakup, Jess, an offbeat woman of fifty, moves in with three single guys. Moments later, she wonders what the fuck she was thinking, cashes in her 401(k), and buys an apartment in Paris, where her bangs and whimsical sundresses still draw the appreciative-yet-respectful gaze that only a Frenchman of a certain age can pull off.

“Middle-Aged Women Can Do Anything”
This children’s book celebrates the bountiful career options available to middle-aged women in America, such as senator-not-President, First Lady, mother of the bride, empty-nester, and enrollee in dermatology office’s wrinkle-treatment clinical trial. In this charmingly illustrated book, if you can dream it, you can most likely not do it because you’re considered past your prime.

“M.A.W.”
This “C.S.I.” spinoff gathers cast members who’ve aged out of the sidekick/hot-forensic-scientist roles they once filled and teams them up in pursuit of justice, equal pay, and the perfect cat tower for a studio apartment. No need for elaborate disguises in this exciting crime series—these women are already invisible.

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Sasha DiGiulian ripete Bellavista

August 21, 2019 | News | No Comments

La climber statunitense Sasha DiGiulian ha ripetuto Bellavista sulla Cima Ovest delle Tre Cime di Lavaredo, nelle Dolomiti.

Bel colpo per la climber Sasha DiGiulian che si toglie la soddisfazione della prima ripetizione femminile di Bellavista, la via aperta in solitaria ed in inverno da Alexander Huber nel 1999 e in seguito liberata nel 2001 dallo stesso Huber con difficoltà fino a 8c.

La ripetizione della DiGiulian è stata una sorprendente avventura visto che fino ad ora la statunitense si era concentrata a ripetere vie sportive e la sua esperienza di vie a più tiri, e vie in Dolomiti, era pressoché nulla. Ma nel 2011 la DiGiulian aveva incontrato Reinhold Messner ed è stato proprio il re degli ottomila ad indirizzarla verso quell’enorme strapiombo sulla Ovest.

Un sogno quindi iniziato due anni fa e che ha dovuto aspettare fino a questo estate, più precisamente l’inizio di agosto quando assieme all’asso spagnolo Edu Marin la DiGiulian ha iniziato a provare i primi tiri. 7b, 6c+, 6a+, 7a+, 7b il primo giorno. Il tiro chiave da 8c provato soltanto una volta da entrambi il secondo giorno. Poi alcuni giorni di riposo. Quindi, tornati al lavoro, i due avevano riprovato il tiro chiave e quello successivo di 8a e si erano calati, pronti per la rotpunkt, pensando che le difficoltà maggiori fossero finite.

Il 12 agosto si è presentata una giornata fredda, ma la DiGiulian, convinta che fosse il giorno giusto anche se il tiro chiave era bagnato e Marin era caduto, è riuscita a venirne a capo al secondo tentativo. Dopo aver chiuso anche il tiro successivo da 8a, i due climbers si sono resi conto di quanto era alta la via (mancavano ancora ben 12 tiri) e pur avendo aumentato il ritmo, sono stati sorpresi da un temporale poco sotto la cima,raggiunta sola alle nove di sera. Non trovando la via di discesa la DiGiulian ha chiamato chi conosce quella cima come le sue tasche, ovvero Alexander Huber che le ha consigliato di bivaccare per poi scendere il giorno successivo.

“Eravamo così bagnati e freddi” scrive la DiGiulian “Il vento ululava, pensavamo che fosse una follia. Sopravvivere la notte nella nostra condizione sembrava di per sé un’impresa. Ma, dopo aver cercato la discesa per altre due ore, ci siamo resi conto che Alex aveva ragione… Così, esausti per la lunga giornata e la battaglia mentale, ci siamo assopiti per circa due ore sulle rocce, tremando. Alle 5:30 circa l’alba ha illuminato la montagna e noi abbiamo continuato la ricerca con ottimismo. Eravamo congelati e stanchi. Una doccia calda, il sacco a pelo, ed un cappuccino caldo sembravano il paradiso.”

Alcune ore più tardi i due sono rientrati sani e salvi al Rifugio Auronzo. Di questa avventura – fortunatamente finita nei miglior dei modi – la DiGiulian conclude “Salire Bellavista mi ha aperto una nuova porta di opportunità.” E siccome rimane qui altri 10 giorni, forse questo è soltanto il primo capitolo!

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Steve Bate su Zodiac al El Capitan in solitaria

August 21, 2019 | News | No Comments

Nel mese di giugno il neozelandese Steve Bate ha salito El Capitan lungo la via Zodiac in Yosemite. Quello che rende la salita particolare è che Bate è affetto da Retinite Pigmentosa.

Pochi anni fa a Steve Bate, un climber 35enne neozelandese che abita in Scozia, è stata diagnosticata una Retinite Pigmentosa, un rara malattia genetica dell’occhio che porta ad una perdita della vista graduale e progressiva, tanto che attualmente Steve gode solo del 10% della normale capacità visiva. Questa riduzione della vista però non gli ha impedito di vivere al massimo la sua passione per l’arrampicata, anzi, e a giugno ha salito in solitaria la storica big wall Zodiac su El Capitan in Yosemite.

Il bel successo di Bate è avvenuto dopo 12 mesi di preparativi. Lo scorso giugno, dopo aver fissato i primi due tiri ed essersi riposato, è partito per il suo lungo e difficile viaggio in solitaria durato 6 giorni e 5 notti in parete. Da notare che Bate aveva salito Zodiac pochi giorni prima assieme a Andy Kirkpatrick, ma la sua solitaria era la prima volta da capocordata su una big wall.

“Affermare che ero nervoso è dire poco” ha spiegato Bate “probabilmente ero terrorizzato dal fatto che stavo per salire la via da solo. Pensavo al fatto che ho una vista limitata e che sono registrato ufficialmente come cieco. Trovare la giusta linea di salita è sempre stato un problema per me e davvero non volevo perdermi lassù su El Capitan. Ma quando sono finalmente partito le paure si sono dissolte nel caldo sole primaverile. Ho pregato perché arrivassero temperature più fresche… e l’arrampicata ha completamente assorbito tutta la mia concentrazione ed energia.”

Per vedere un video della salita visitate www.news.stv.tv

SCHEDA: Arrampicare nella Yosemite Valley – 5 vie classiche

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E’ uscita la nuova guida di arrampicata e alpinismo “Nel regno del granito. Masino – Bregaglia – Albigna – Val di Mello” di Andrea Gaddi (edizioni Alpine Studio). La recensione con la prefazione di Rossano Libera.

Più di 700 vie a cui si aggiungono un centinaio di monotiri, il tutto in 501 pagine con descrizioni, schizzi e foto (molto ben fatti) che danno conto dell’enorme universo di granito di uno dei più importanti “cuori” dell’alpinismo italiano ma non solo. Ecco in estrema sintesi questo nuovo “Nel Regno Del Granito / Masino – Bregaglia – Albigna – Val Di Mello” edito da Alpine Studio. Un vademecum pressoché quasi esaustivo per orizzontarsi nel tesoro di granito della Val Masino (naturalmente con l’immancabile Val di Mello), Val Chiavenna e Val Bregaglia. Un gran lavoro che, come spiega nell’introduzione l’autore Andrea Gaddi, non solo riunisce in un’unica guida quei due fortunati volumi del precedente “Regno del Granito” dimezzandone i costi (25 € anziché 49) ma soprattutto ne rende più fruibili i contenuti tecnici. Questo migliorando la trattazione di alcune montagne e vie clou. Correggendo gli immancabili errori. Introducendo l’indicazione di quanto una via è proteggibile con protezioni veloci. E riprendendo anche, dalla storica guida di Pietro Corti del 1989, quell’omino con il “pelo sullo stomaco” che dà un’immediata idea dell’impegno fisico, tecnico e ambientale delle vie. E’ chiaro poi che la “compressione” in un solo volume ha richiesto delle scelte e dei “sacrifici”. Quindi nella nuova guida non ci sono più le descrizioni tiro per tiro delle vie che sono state sostituite (come vuole la “modernità”) da dettagliati schizzi. Né ci sono la storia alpinistica, le parole dei protagonisti, la bibliografia e la cartografia. Tutte cose sicuramente importanti, tanto che lo stesso autore ne annuncia la futura pubblicazione sul sito della casa editrice www.alpinestudio.it

Resta solo da consigliare, per i pochissimi che non conoscessero questo autentico eden dell’arrampicata e dell’alpinismo ma anche a chi lo conosce bene, la lettura della preziosa prefazione di Rossano Libera che vi riportiamo qui sotto. Siamo sicuri che basterà per far entrare queste pareti e queste valli nei vostri sogni.


PREFAZIONE DI ROSSANO LIBERA A “NEL REGNO DEL GRANITO”

Se la Val di Mello è la Mecca dell’aderenza, scalare in Valle è una professione di fede. Sì, bisogna davvero crederci per passare indenni su alcuni itinerari! Quelle vie che hanno fatto la storia e decretato i vari discepoli di un solo credo, sono ancora lì, tali e quali a com’erano alla data della loro apertura. Ecco la vera forza di questo luogo magico. Il tempo, pur passando, si è fermato… Si è fermato su quelle placche aride di ripetizioni, come su quelle rughe che ogni stagione accolgono polpastrelli e mescole da ogni dove.

I forti arrampicatori cresciuti con l’Euro, sappiano che qui gradi e scalata si esprimono ancora in Lire. “Lasciate ogni speranza, o voi ch’entrate”… se non avvezzi alla scalata Old Style. Questa è la Val di Mello, culla del Nuovo Mattino, dove i navigatori dell’Oceano Irrazionale e gli argonauti sbarcati sulla Luna Nascente hanno dato vita ad una Nuova Dimensione del salire. A noi non rimane che godere di questa “Grande Bellezza” lasciataci in eredità da un manipolo di sognatori iconoclasti che tra queste rocce avevano fatto il centro del loro “io”.

Salendo di quota, come nei cerchi di dantesca memoria, e smessi i panni della “lotta con l’Alpe”, veniamo abbracciati da questo Regno del granito, dove la scalata assume uno spessore diverso, dato da lunghi e faticosi avvicinamenti. Io lo definisco “valore aggiunto” ed è ciò che contraddistingue l’alpinismo nelle Alpi Centrali, andando a coronare la totalità di questa esperienza. Mi è difficile, anzi, impossibile tradurre in parole la moltitudine di emozioni e la profondità delle esperienze vissute tra queste montagne, su queste pareti. So per certo che è un qualcosa che tocca chiunque frequenti questi luoghi.

La soddisfazione nello scalare in questo angolo di Alpi è tale da far dimenticare ogni fatica fatta per arrivarci, tanto che prima o dopo ci si ritorna. È inevitabile…

Rossano Libera

IN VENDITA SU SHOP.PLANETMOUNTAIN.COM
Nel regno del granito

…Masino – Bregaglia – Albigna – Val di Mello
Autore: Andrea Gaddi

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L’ 8/12/2013 l’alpinista austriaco David Lama ha aperto in solitaria la via Nordverschneidung (400m, 90°, WI4, M4/5, VI/VII) una bella via sulla parete nord della Hohe Kirche nella Valsertal, Alpi dello Zillertal, Austria.

“In realtà non è niente di straordinario, semplicemente una linea che avevo in mente da alcuni anni, qualcosa che prima o poi volevo fare. E adesso l’ho fatta.” L’alpinista austriaco David Lama minimizza la sua recente solitaria sulla Nord della Hohe Kirche nella Valsertal, ma vale comunque la pena soffermarsi sulla salita di questo diedro aperto di 400m, anche perché lui stesso la descrive come “una bella via, con un accesso relativamente veloce, in un ambiente fantastico… da fare.” E se lo dice lui, forse è meglio capirne di più.

Prima della solitaria Lama ha avuto la possibilità di ispezionare la linea da vicino quando, un paio di settimane fa, assieme a Ben Lepesant ha tentato una via leggermente più a sinistra. I due però sono stati costretti a tornare indietro, e con Lepesant attualmente all’estero e le condizioni comunque eccellenti, Lama ha deciso che domenica 8 dicembre era arrivato il momento giusto per tentare da solo il diedro a destra.

“In generale l’arrampicata è piacevole e mai troppo difficile. Circa 100 metri di ghiaccio a 90°, a volte emozionante con alcune stalattite, mi hanno portato su terreno più facile.” Dopo questo inizio altri 100m di più “facile” arrampicata di misto hanno portato Lama alla sezione chiave della via: quattro tiri che l’austriaco descrive come “abbastanza impegnativi.” Leggi: grande esposizione e roccia non buona che l’hanno convinto ad autoassicurarsi per un tiro. A questo punto ha dovuto salire senza le picche. “Mi ricordo che non è stato facile. La roccia non è granché, ho faticato a proteggermi e salire con i ramponi sulla roccia… non è stato bellissimo.” Le difficoltà? “Direi qualcosa attorno ad un difficile UIAA VI, facile VII. L’unica cosa che so di certo è che faceva freddo, forse -10°C.” Si perché giustamente questa valle viene anche chiamata il freezer del Nord Tirolo.

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Lama ha impiegato circa mezz’ora per salire questi 30 metri, dopo di che altri 100 m di terreno più facile l’hanno portato praticamente direttamente in cima. Le foto di rito sono state seguite dalla rapida discesa lungo la parete ovest, verso gli sci e la macchina. Sei ore e mezza il tempo impiegato, dalla macchina fino in cima e di nuovo alla macchina, di cui 2 ore soltanto per l’avvicinamento la mattina. Abbastanza veloce quindi. Anzi, così veloce che Lama non ha nemmeno firmato il libro di vetta: “Si, in realtà mi sono dimenticato di farlo. Ho bevuto del tè poi ho subito iniziato la discesa, me lo sono semplicemente scordato.”

“E’ difficile darle un grado complessivo” ci ha raccontato Lama “all’inizio c’era poco ghiaccio e solitamente ce ne di più, comunque propongo qualcosa come 90°, WI4, M4/5, VI/VII. Come dicevo, non è niente di speciale. Ma è qualcosa che volevo fare da sempre ed è sicuramente la linea più facile, più logica sulla parete nord.”

Lama ha chiamato la via Nordverschneidung e va ricordato che quest’ultima salita si aggiunge ad altre sue invernali effettuate in questa valle, come per esempio Badlands (prima salita, in solitaria, aprile 2012), Sagwand Schiefer Riss (marzo 2013, assieme a Hansjörg Auer e Peter Ortner) e Sagwand Mittelpfeiler (solitaria, maggio 2013).