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28th May 2019

Pretty Little Liars captured the attention of a worldwide audience when it premiered on ABC Family in 2010. Going on to run for a total of seven seasons, teens were left with a gaping, liar-less hole in their hearts when the series wrapped up in 2017. That was, until the premiere of Pretty Little Liars: The Perfectionists, this March.  

For those of you who aren’t as familiar with the Pretty Little Liars universe as you should be, it’d be understandable for you to mistake this recent spin-off as the series’s first. It is, however, not. 

Enter: Ravenswood, the drama that saw series regular Caleb River, played by Tyler Blackburn, face a far more supernatural world in the fictional town of Ravenswood, than he ever had in Rosewood. But that’s a story for another day. 

Thankfully, the fact that Ravenswood was cancelled due to low ratings after just one season, did not deter showrunner I. Marlene King from creating another spin-off, because this most recent installment sure packs a punch. 

However, while we’re just one season into The Perfectionists, which thankfully sees the return of Alison DiLaurentis and Mona Vanderwaal, we can’t help wondering whether the remainder of the Pretty Little Liars cast will return to our screens. And if so, how? 

Season two is yet to be confirmed however King revealed in an interview with Entertainment Weekly that “the original PLLs have been so supportive of this show, not just the ladies but the men.” The showrunner shared that both Blackburn and Ian Harding have been in contact, confessing she hopes she can incorporate them. “They can come and visit our world and it will still feel like our world,” she says. “Because it is the same universe.”

By some stroke of luck, King also answered all our questions regarding spin-offs in a recent interview with The Wire, confirming that yes, “there’s absolutely a world” where more are possible. 

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“There were all these meetings about “should it be “Pretty Little Liars: The Perfectionists” or “PLL The Perfectionists” and then someone explained to me that if we want more to come, it should have a colon,” shared the showrunner, all but confirming the future of at least one more spin-off. 

“We’re definitely open to expanding the universe,” she added. “It’s so much fun to play in this world, so I’m always open to new ideas and new tentacles to explore.” 

If for some strange reason King’s answer didn’t excite you, then the fact she revealed her dream spin-off would see Hanna Marin and Caleb River (who per The Perfectionist‘s, have welcomed a baby) return as detectives, most definitely should. “I would have so much fun with that show,” she added. 

Following news that Aria Montgomery and Ezra Fitz have also welcomed a baby girl named Katherine Ella, which was revealed by way of a series of texts leaked from Alison DiLaurentis’s phone on the official PLL Twitter account, perhaps a spin-off centered on the lives of the new parents could also be a possibility.

While we await further news on the topic of another Pretty Little Liars-related installment, be sure to continue watching The Perfectionists, as you might just happen to see the cast of the original return, or at bare minimum, hear more about Spencer Hastings and Toby Cavanaugh’s elopement. 

“There’s quite a few people who’ve expressed interest in coming on. But for the first season, I felt it was really important to launch the show on its own and let it stand on its own two feet, so it’s not really about those appearances,” said King of the possible return of the original cast. “But I think next season we’ll be a lot more open to having some of those OGs and those fun moments.”

In an interview with Entertainment Tonight, Sasha Pieterse also revealed, “I think Ashley [Benson] and Troian [Bellisario] are going to try to direct next season, which would be amazing, if we get a next season.” The star, who plays Alison DiLaurentis, added: “We love to have whoever on the show, whoever wants to join us.”

The baseball cap is so ubiquitous in American culture that it could be called America’s national hat. Made up of a soft cap and stiff visor, it is typically adjustable at the back thanks to a plastic, Velcro or elastic band. The baseball style of cap derived from earlier brimmed hats popular in the late 19th century, including deerstalkers popularised by the illustrations of Sherlock Holmes, jockey caps, military “pillbox” caps, fedoras and boaters. The earliest baseballs caps were made of wool with a leather bill and were worn exclusively by baseball players in the mid- to late-19th century. As the 20th century dawned, the headgear moved off the field and into everyday wardrobes. Today, the baseball cap is worn to show support for a team, as a fashion statement or a way to get a message across, as seen by the red Make America Great Again trucker hats (a type of baseball cap) worn by Donald Trump and his supporters.

The earliest baseball teams — the sport was invented in America around 1800 and the National League founded in 1876 — did not wear standardised hats. Players were free to wear any type of brimmed hat to keep the sun out of their eyes. Many preferred the straw boater style or the pillbox style. Spalding’s Official Baseball Guide of 1888 shows a wide variety of caps worn by baseball players, including soft and hard cap styles. The cap as we know it today began to take shape around the turn of the century: air holes were added in the 1890s; a logo appeared for the first time in 1901, when the Detroit Tigers put an image of a running orange tiger on the front of the cap; sticking was added to the visor in 1903; longer bills were introduced in the 1920s and 1930s, and the visor became firmer; the crown became more vertical by the 1940s, allowing the front of the cap to become a billboard of sorts and shaping it into the style of cap that we know today. In 2007, the Major Baseball League changed the standard cap from wool to polyester for players’ comfort.

While the look of the baseball cap hasn’t changed significantly since the 1950s, attitudes towards the it have. Jim Lilliefors, author of , offers several reasons for the rising popularity of the baseball cap and its acceptance off the field. As the broadcasting of baseball on television helped the sport became popular, fans began to want to show support for their teams through their hats. In the 1960s, agriculture companies began to realise the cap’s potential for advertising and promotional caps – known today as trucker hats – became increasingly popular in the 1970s and 1980s. At the same time, baseball caps were vaunted for their role in shading faces from the sun, for both men and women. summertime fashion spreads from this period reinforced this notion, helping the cap become genderless. Finally, the wearing of baseball caps by TV and movie stars such as Tom Selleck in the role of Thomas Magnum on , the character of MacGyver from the show of the same name, and Tom Cruise in , cemented the cap’s transition from field to fashion.

As the cap became mainstream, men and women began to play with the style, turning it backwards or sideways as a symbol of personal expression. The headgear was adopted by musicians, from rappers to punk rockers and grunge singers in the 1990s to pop stars and the MTV generation in the 2000s. Celebrities began to use the hat as a way to shield their faces from the paparazzi. As it gained popularity, the style also crossed borders. Young British middle-class urbanites adopted the baseball hat as part of their standard uniform in the early 2000s.

Today, the baseball cap or trucker hat is sometimes worn ironically or as a way to demonstrate affiliation with the working class. However, fashion brands such as A.P.C, Burberry, Brunello Cucinelli, Gucci and Kenzo have all made high-end versions of the cap that push it into the domain of luxury fashion. While expensive iterations may signal status, the affordability of the common baseball cap, as well as its longevity as a fashion statement, has helped it to remain firmly part of the modern style lexicon.

Rockford Peaches women’s baseball team, 1944

Roberto Clemente, 1955

Katharine Hepburn, 1950

A model in
, 1977

Farmers, 1987

Jimmy Carter, 1976

Madonna, 1985

Boy George, 1987

Lauren Hutton, 1989

Princess Diana, 1988

Prince Harry and Prince William, 1991

Donatella Versace and Elton John, 1991

Eddie Vedder of Pearl Jam, 1992

Janet Jackson, 1990

Bill Clinton, 1993

Mark Wahlberg, 1991

Spike Lee, 1995

Jay-Z, 1999

Beyoncé, 2002

Gisele Bündchen and Leonardo DiCaprio, 2003

Naomi Campbell, 2002

Gwen Stefani, 2003

The Dalai Lama, 2005

Rihanna, 2016

Kenzo ready-to-wear spring/summer 2015

Burberry ready-to-wear autumn/winter ’17/’18

Balenciaga ready-to-wear autumn/winter ’18/’19

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Loopholes, resurrected characters, plot resets, ever-branching arcs: time travel is an infinitely flexible conceit, limited only to its own pseudoscientific rules of causality. The new Netflix movie “See You Yesterday” makes an unusual contribution to the time-travel canon while highlighting one of its most prominent flaws: the racial privilege baked into these stories, or the dangers of time-travelling while black.

From Marty McFly to James Cole and even Wolverine, time travellers are almost always white and frequently male. It’s a practical choice on the part of writers. Post-Reconstruction? Not a problem. Colonial times? Let’s make it a three-day weekend. Time-travel shows and movies tend to fall into one of two categories: quaint personal journeys and heroic quests. In stories like “Back to the Future,” “The Time Traveler’s Wife,” and “The Butterfly Effect,” the scale is that of a personal narrative, with a white protagonist comfortably insulated from a larger racial history. On the other hand, in stories like “12 Monkeys,” “The Terminator,” and “Timecop,” the central conflict is so large—apocalypse, dystopias, national or global disasters—that the narrative can easily sweep past issues of race. (As for forward time-travelling, the future tends to be surprisingly post-racial, as evinced in “Star Trek” and “Doctor Who.”)

“See You Yesterday,” which was produced by Spike Lee, takes a different approach. Its protagonists, C.J. and Sebastian, are black teen-age geniuses who figure out the secret to time travel for a science expo at school. When C.J.’s older brother is shot dead by police, she decides to go back in time to prevent his murder. Though the movie encounters some of the usual pitfalls of time-travel plots (predictability, muddled rules) and sports some hokey, eighties-style special effects, what it offers in terms of diversity and messaging is a treasure. As C.J. and Sebastian work out the fantastical science of time travel in a garage, it feels practical, grounded in the reality of black American life. The two don’t set out to change the world or alter their own lives, nor do they jump far into the past or future for an excellent Bill and Ted–style adventure. They’re not thrilled to have one-upped Einstein; they just want to get scholarships to college so they can leave their neighborhood. And C.J. just wants her brother back. Their actions and motivations are contained to this one very real instance of police brutality, so the plot never loses its footing in the real world.

Other shows have tried to address time-travelling while black, to different degrees of success. In the painfully juvenile, short-lived Fox comedy “Making History,” a black character who travels to 1775 is mistaken for a slave, but it’s played like a one-off joke. In the NBC series “Timeless,” which ended last year, a black programmer, a white historian, and a white soldier form a team of time-hoppers pursuing a “time terrorist” who’s out to hijack history. In the first episode, the programmer, Rufus, protests, “I am black. There’s literally no place in American history that will be awesome for me.” His discomfort is always apparent. At one point, he delivers a triumphant speech about future black American leaders, including Barack Obama, to a racist cop—but all it does is incite the cop to pounce on him, creating a distraction so that his white colleague can break out of prison. In “Timeless,” the woe of time-travelling while black is a detail, a hiccup, sometimes a plot exigency, but never a big theme unto itself, and so Rufus always exists in a secondary position to the show’s two white protagonists.

The British sci-fi show “Doctor Who” has also recently made strides in addressing race in its narrative. For decades, one white man after another starred as the titular alien who travels in time and space. Of the Doctor’s travel companions, too, there have only been a couple of people of color, and the show has handled the issue awkwardly. In Season 3 of the rebooted series, Martha Jones, the Doctor’s black companion, asks him how her race will be addressed in seventeenth-century England; he brushes her concerns off easily, saying that she should do as he does and walk around like she owns the place. Race, he suggests, is an inconsequential construct, except when it isn’t—when they meet Shakespeare, the bard fetishizes her blackness by way of hitting on her.

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It was an episode of the most recent season of the series, starring the actress Jodie Whittaker as the first female Doctor, that signalled a more fearless approach to race. In the episode “Rosa,” the Doctor and her three companions, Graham, a white man, Yasmin, a Pakistani woman, and Ryan, a black man, have to insure that Rosa Parks incites the civil-rights movement as planned. The episode poignantly addresses each character’s specific experience during this moment in history: Yasmin and Ryan encounter people who are either confounded by or openly hostile toward them, and they trade stories about how they still face racism in the present day. Meanwhile, the Doctor and Graham are forced to act complicit in the practice of segregation. The episode’s climactic scene, right before Parks refuses to give up her seat, is so affecting because Graham must confront the racial privilege he was born with and a history of injustice that precedes him.

When “See You Yesterday” opens, in C.J. and Sebastian’s classroom, their teacher—played by Marty McFly himself, Michael J. Fox—is reading Octavia E. Butler’s novel “Kindred” at his desk. In Butler’s book, a black woman living in Los Angeles in 1976 is repeatedly transported back to pre–Civil War Maryland, to a plantation where her ancestors lived. She tries to protect her lineage while also trying to stay alive, in a time when she’s deemed a slave. She’s literally beaten down by the past—whipped and nearly raped—and, after she time-travels for the last time, one of her arms is left behind, in the past. History has taken a part of her, and she will never be whole in the present. In “Kindred,” as in “See You Yesterday,” history is never just relegated to the past for black people. It’s living.

“See You Yesterday” ends uncertainly, on a long shot of C.J. Her determined expression, as she runs toward the past again, could promise hope or folly. But in every version of the story, there’s injustice and a black person inevitably hurt or dead. This cyclical sorrow, the movie seems to say, is the state and cost of institutional racism in America. Though time-travel narratives so often allow white protagonists to freely jump the time line, there’s an open field of possibilities for the genre to look at history through the eyes of the oppressed, forgotten, and marginalized. What “See You Yesterday” asserts is that, for a people hindered by prejudice and police brutality, the future is a privilege. “See you yesterday,” C.J.’s brother tells her solemnly, near the end of the film. For these black travellers, there are only yesterdays to contend with; tomorrow is just out of reach.

Ayşegül Savaş on Imitation and Identity

May 28, 2019 | News | No Comments

In “Canvas” the narrator, a graduate student, is renting an apartment from an older woman, an artist named Agnes. The artist has arranged to use her studio there whenever she visits the city, yet while the two women sometimes share the same space, they barely know each other. What does that type of relationship—one of both intimacy and distance—offer a writer?

In many ways, such a relationship resembles writing and reading fiction: observing characters at a distance as well as from close up, trying to glimpse at something essential in their routines and actions.

In “Canvas,” this double perspective—of remoteness and intimacy—is amplified in both directions. This allows Agnes to present herself to the narrator in a way that might not have been possible with a complete stranger or a very close friend. I think that the story she tells arises from this unusual setup.

We initially think that this is going to be the narrator’s story, but once she and Agnes start talking, it becomes clear that this is Agnes’s. Did you know from the outset that “Canvas” would make this shift?

I knew from the start that the narrator would simply be listening to Agnes’s story without playing a role in it. What I didn’t know was how the narrator’s presence in the apartment, and her role as an observer, might complement the story of Agnes and her cousin. That emerged after I settled on the narrator’s research topic—the representation of the soul in Gothic nude sculptures. Telling a story with honesty is also a way of being naked, like the sculptures lined up for the Day of Judgment.

I also wanted the narrator to play a silent part in Agnes’s loneliness and guilt, simply by listening to her story. She becomes a witness.

W. G. Sebald is a writer who often used conversation in this way, where the narrator becomes a listener. Were you thinking about his work at all when you were writing this?

Sebald’s work has had a tremendous influence on my writing. A few years ago, I attempted a novel that strung together many stories through a passive narrator who “absorbed” others’ narratives. That novel primarily took place in city streets and among other challenges, I couldn’t believably make the characters tell long stories in public spaces! Sebald does this seamlessly, expanding conversations, merging locations and speakers, and patching them together with layers of history.

The interior setting was a more organic way for me to try this style again. The intimacy of the studio, bordering on claustrophobia, facilitates the strange story that Agnes shares with the narrator.

Over the course of an evening, Agnes tells the narrator about her cousin, someone to whom she was very close in childhood and whose life she wanted to emulate. At one point she says, “We form ourselves through our doubles. We make ghostly twins to carry the weight of our desires.” When you first started imagining the trajectories of Agnes and her cousin, did you know how their lives would converge and diverge?

I had ghost stories in mind while writing “Canvas”—ghosts as suppressed sources of grief or resentment. I knew from the start that the cousin would haunt Agnes’s life in some way and that Agnes’s interactions with her would be roundabout. I didn’t want the cousin to become too real but remain a projection of Agnes’s desires and her guilt. Even when the two meet years later, Agnes only describes the cousin’s striking appearance but not her interiority. I also wondered how this projection or “ghost” might reëmerge in Agnes’s life after so many years. It happens with Agnes’s separation from her husband; their lives intersect in moments of difficulty.

Agnes takes on the mantle of her cousin’s identity when her cousin’s apparently charmed life changes quite radically. Is this, as she believes, monstrous in some form?

I think that we all form our identities by imitation to some extent—by mimicking the gestures, mannerisms, or personas of people we admire. Of course, it’s easier to do this when the person we’re imitating is not there to see us. Agnes considers this a form of theft, especially since her cousin’s life is struck by tragedy and what remains of her charismatic self is Agnes’s imitation of it. I actually find Agnes’s repulsion to be a sign of her humanity and compassion.

But there are other instances when the characters withhold their sympathy or support. The narrator subtly avoids Agnes around the apartment even though she probably realizes that Agnes is very lonely. Similarly, Agnes says that her avoidance of her cousin was not overt but that she still wanted to keep herself clean of the ungainly suffering. And then there is Agnes’s very slight avoidance of her own parents—her distance toward them after her marriage. All these instances of coldness, or lack of engagement, are very understated and without direct consequence, but it’s nevertheless carried out despite knowledge of another’s vulnerabilities. This, perhaps, is monstrous.

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You recently published your first novel, “Walking on the Ceiling.” This traces another relationship, one between a young Turkish woman, Nunu, and an older British writer, M, who met when they were both living in Paris. Nunu tells M stories, entrusts him with her observations, and she comes to resent him for that. Is that kind of regret common, do you think? Do people have a desire to be heard and then a desire to regain ownership of the stories they’ve just given away?

At the beginning of their friendship, Nunu tells M idyllic stories about her family, but as the relationship deepens, she feels guilty about manipulating the truth and concealing the troubling aspects of her past. She begins to resent M’s attention and his enthusiasm, because it reminds her of her deception.

Another reason for her resentment is that her stories solidify particular aspects of her memories while disregarding others. While Nunu creates one version of her mother in the stories, she also leaves behind other versions; she can’t manage to offer a truthful picture. It’s paradoxical—we tell stories in order to preserve and yet we lose so much in the telling.

In John Updike’s story “Gesturing,” first published in 1980, the newly separated Richard Maple finds himself in a Boston apartment with a view of a startling new skyscraper. “The skyscraper, for years suspended in a famous state of incompletion, was a beautiful disaster,” Updike writes, “famous because it was a disaster (glass kept falling from it) and disastrous because it was beautiful.” The architect had imagined that a sheer glass skin would “reflect the sky and the old low brick skyline of Boston” and would “melt into the sky.” “Instead,” Updike continues, “the windows of mirroring glass kept falling to the street and were replaced by ugly opacities of black plywood.” Still, enough of the reflective surface remains “to give an impression, through the wavery old window of this sudden apartment, of huge blueness, a vertical cousin to the horizontal huge blueness of the sea that Richard awoke to each morning, in the now bone-deep morning chill of his unheated shack.” Not too surprisingly, the distressed tower becomes an oblique symbol for the state of Richard’s life, soul, and dissolved marriage, slicing in and out of the story, much as its counterpart slices in and out of the Boston skyline.

The skyscraper in “Gesturing” is unmistakably the John Hancock Tower (officially renamed 200 Clarendon in 2015), designed by I. M. Pei and finished in 1976. Modernists had dreamed for decades of a pure glass architecture, and it does not take much to see John Hancock as the complicated fulfillment of these hopes. It did, as in the Updike story, suffer from engineering failures. Its glass panes were unable to withstand the city’s intense winds. Additional study revealed that the building had deeper issues of structural integrity and might, under heavy wind, collapse. But sustained attention and repair have kept the building intact, and it remains the single most beautiful object in one of the world’s most tedious, stuffy cities—on one of Boston’s handful of pleasant blue days, it reflects and multiplies the scudding clouds.

Pei, who was born in China (his initials stand for Ieoh Ming, but he is almost invariably referred to by his British-style abbreviation), died this month in New York at the extraordinary age of a hundred and two. For the better part of a half century, Pei received major commissions all over the United States, and several beyond it, that are essential to the fabric of our cities, though we may not always recognize how his work is woven into them. He was a modernist who, unlike others, largely avoided lapel-grabbing gestures. The John Hancock Tower draws modest attention to itself, but no one would go out of the way to see it. His most famous work, the glass pyramid outside the Louvre, is still an adjunct—albeit an iconic one—to the world’s most famous museum of art. Glowing and light-filled, the pyramid is the paradoxical iconic work that has become inextricable from its surroundings; it is now impossible to imagine the museum’s fronting plaza without it.

In other words, Pei carried out the tradition of architectural modernism more thoroughly than most other architects. Trained at M.I.T., he was impressed by Le Corbusier in his youth, but he appears to have imbibed none of Corbu’s megalomania and world-making ambition. Pei was, instead, a consummate professional, one of the people who made modernism feel conservative and traditional. The East Building of the National Gallery, in Washington, D.C., married a sharp, trapezoidal construction with a monumental marble veneer. Here was a modern project that accommodated itself to the neoclassical ethos of the self-embalming American capital. It is emblematic of a figure who put up buildings everywhere that one often doesn’t know are his while at the same time becoming a figure of significant international renown, the winner of virtually every prize and form of recognition available in the field. The fact is doubly amazing because he was Asian-American in a field hostile to minorities (and to women). Though he admired masters like Louis Kahn, his work is as far from Kahn’s gnomic expressions of mystery as can be. “I worry that ideas and professional practice do not intersect enough,” he told the critic Paul Goldberger. “Maybe my early training set me back. Maybe it made me too much of a pragmatist.”

One result of Pei’s longevity is that in some sense he embodied the entire drift of the modern movement—he worked throughout the latter half of the twentieth century and was implicated in its achievements and its catastrophes. The work by Pei that is geographically closest to me rises in the towers of Society Hill, just north of where I live in Philadelphia. A suite of three Miesian towers, perforated with windows like little alcoves in a sandy concrete frame, they are best seen in the morning from the Ben Franklin Bridge, as they catch the rising light over the Delaware River. The deep windows create deep shadows, enhancing a general sense of volume and presence. Compared with so much other glass-and-metal waterfront development, the towers are unassuming and light: an incredible achievement that repays continuous reacquaintance. To approach them from my neighborhood, you walk through one of the oldest districts in the city, filled with early nineteenth-century brick row houses, and ascend a cobblestoned street to a flattened plaza. As with so many modernist housing developments, there are broad expanses of useless lawn, as well as the usual array of simultaneously bizarre and anodyne public sculptures. What is unusual, in addition to the towers, is the surrounding set of modernist brick town homes, also designed by Pei, which are intended to make the transition from the historic streetscape less abrupt. Unmistakably mid-century, and with a darker brick pattern than the Federal-style homes they face, they nonetheless are of the scale of the buildings they graciously imitate.

But Pei’s formal gestures to the past mask the fact that he helped engineer a violent break with it. The Society Hill Towers are the result of one of the more aggressive urban-renewal efforts in Philadelphia history, in which the aluminum manufacturer Alcoa partnered with the New York-based real-estate company Webb and Knapp to build a luxury development intended to bring wealthier residents back to the city center. The city’s Planning Commission anticipated displacing thirty-four per cent of the residents and the razing of the neighborhood’s Victorian buildings. An entire era and style of Philadelphia architecture disappeared; so, too, did a historically black neighborhood. A four-bedroom apartment in Pei’s towers rented for a thousand and fifty dollars in 1978—near the top of the city’s rental market at the time. One aspect of Pei’s professionalism was his disinterest in the consequences of his residential and commercial work, a fact that merely made him more like most architects.

Another Pei landmark, the University Village towers, run by N.Y.U., also resulted from urban renewal, bringing to mind the old question about good architecture and its longstanding relationship with bad history. How does one admire a beautiful development, as I do with Society Hill, and not think of the immense cost incurred in producing it? Perhaps more than any other twentieth-century architect, Pei’s work invites this sort of rumination. Unfailingly intelligent in executing his projects, and moved to modern design by conviction, he nonetheless wanted his work to slip into the everyday. It is fitting that among his most impressive buildings was a tower whose function was to mirror its surroundings.

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When Ta-Nehisi Coates wrote “The Case for Reparations” for The Atlantic, in 2014, he didn’t expect the government to make reparations anytime soon. He told David Remnick that he had a more modest goal. “My notion,” Coates says, “was you could get people to stop laughing.” For Coates, to treat reparations as a punch line is to misunderstand their purpose. He argues that reparations weren’t only meant to atone for the horror of chattel slavery but to address racial inequities and the economic impact that has persisted since emancipation, more than a century ago. “The case I’m trying to make is, within the lifetime of a large number of Americans in this country, there was theft.”

“The Case for Reparations” was an intellectual sensation, and Coates did change the conversation; of the more than twenty candidates in the 2020 Democratic Presidential race, eight have said they’re in favor of at least establishing a commission to study the subject. He points to Senator Elizabeth Warren, who sought out Coates to discuss his article years before she was considered a candidate. But Coates’s own hopes for America truly making amends remain modest. “It may be true that this is something folks rally around,” he says, “but that’s never been my sense.”

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Do: Explore a new warm-weather hobby, like kayaking, gardening, or hiking.

Don’t: Invest a lot of money in accessories for your hobby before trying it out.

Thing That Will Inevitably End Up Happening: You purchase gardening shears, a single oar, and cute hiking boots, only to spend the bulk of your free time watching a new Netflix show in which British cupcake bakers compete in the kitchen against American prison inmates.

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Do: Try a new style on for size. Pick out a funky pair of sandals or an unusual dress silhouette and allow your flirty summer personality to shine through!

Don’t: Buy clothing made of fabrics that don’t lend themselves to hot climates.

Thing That Will Inevitably End Up Happening: You buy a jumpsuit off Instagram that’s made from the same fabric as those parachutes from your elementary-school P.E. class. You wear it once to something really important and leave after forty-five minutes when butt-sweat stains hit critical mass.


Do: Skip the expensive weeklong vacation and enjoy a quick weekend getaway to someplace other than the beach. Try exploring the mountains or go antiquing upstate!

Don’t: Attempt to cobble together a vacation at the last minute and end up wasting time and money.

Thing That Will Inevitably End Up Happening: You force your noncommittal friends to join you on a day trip to the nearest and worst beach. After a really tense two-hour drive in horrible traffic, you spend four hours worrying about something you stepped on that was probably just a shell but possibly a stray needle? You drink tragic, lime-flavored beer to subdue anxiety and receive a forty-dollar open-container ticket.


Do: Allow yourself to engage in a summer fling, no strings attached!

Don’t: Get too invested in a summer romance that you know has an expiration date.

Thing That Will Inevitably End Up Happening: You waste the precious sunlight-induced serotonin in your brain on an all-consuming crush that haunts your every waking hour. After one weird “drinks thing” with said crush, at which he reveals that he has a different love interest/significant other, you weep in the cab home while listening to Robyn with the window down.


Do: Forget the overpriced rooftop bars and throw a no-pressure outdoor gathering at home. Tell friends to bring good beer and good vibes.

Don’t: Spend the whole summer in the same boring happy-hour bar you frequent the rest of the year.

Thing That Will Inevitably End Up Happening: You discover that your boring happy-hour bar has turned into an overpriced rooftop bar. You decide to bail and smuggle mini vodka bottles into a 6 P.M. showing of “Pokémon Detective Pikachu” and dump them into a large, blue-flavored slushy. You end up living your best life.

Is America Ready to Make Reparations?

May 27, 2019 | News | No Comments

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Late in the Civil War, the Union general William T. Sherman confiscated four hundred thousand acres of land from Confederate planters and ordered it redistributed, in forty-acre lots, to formerly enslaved people—a promise revoked by President Andrew Johnson almost as soon as it was made. More than a hundred and fifty years later, the debate on what America owes to the descendants of slaves, or to people robbed by the legal discrimination that followed, still rages. David Remnick talks with Ta-Nehisi Coates and Susan B. Glasser about how reparations has become a major focus in the 2020 Democratic primary contest. And we’ll visit Georgetown University, where students have chosen to take reparations upon themselves.


Ta-Nehisi Coates Revisits the Case for Reparations

The writer set out to make America stop laughing at jokes about reparations. Five years later, Presidential candidates are taking his research very seriously.


“Come on and Bring on the Reparations”

Sekou Sundiata’s poem, read for us by Carl Hancock Rux, addresses the debts that white culture and society owe to African-Americans.


Reparations and the #Resistance

After decades on the fringes, the debate around reparations has moved into the political mainstream, with eight Presidential candidates interested. Why now? And is there a future for reparations?


At Georgetown, Students Vote to Pay Reparations for the University’s History with Slavery

In 1838, Georgetown administrators sold nearly three hundred enslaved people to sugarcane plantations to help fund the college. In 2019, students voted to pay reparations to their descendants.


Who Should Receive Reparations for Slavery and Discrimination?

Three prominent scholars discuss how reparations would work, and address a controversy over who would be eligible.


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The third season of Joe Swanberg’s Chicago-based series “Easy,” which dropped on Netflix two weeks ago, is anchored by an idea that’s as much a matter of aesthetic form as of dramatic substance. The nine episodes are centered on crucial conversations on which the very stuff of life—love and money, work and family, long-held dreams and self-images—hangs in the balance and undergoes drastic, painful shifts. Swanberg’s expansive ambitions are reflected in a notable twist of the season’s structure: the first and fifth episodes—which bring back from last season Andi (Elizabeth Reaser) and Kyle (Michael Chernus), a couple pushing forty and married with children, who are experimenting with an open relationship—combine to form a feature film of sorts, running nearly an hour and a half and culminating in a twenty-minute-long sequence in which they voice fears, agonies, stifled conflicts, and new dilemmas. Had it been placed on the big screen, those twenty minutes would be among the most imposing and shattering movie scenes of the year to date.

The big screen lurks behind the series as a crucial source of inspiration; “Easy” ’s scenes from a marriage are haunted by the spirit of Ingmar Bergman—both in their stakes and in their proportions. Just as the embedded featurette threatens to burst its confines in a flood of terrifying tensions, so several of the briefer episodes come off as compressed features, their ample stories truncated by Procrustean twentysomething-minute confines—yet nonetheless involving extended, imaginatively fervent conversations. The most powerful of them include the third episode, featuring Kiersey Clemons and Jacqueline Toboni as a couple undergoing a breakup and pursuing new relationships; it also involves the world of filmmaking and draws dramatic energy from the shared passions of creative endeavors. The fourth episode stars Kate Micucci as a lonely music teacher whose romantic gamesmanship threatens the lyrical and luminous birth of actual romance.

Swanberg is among the most practical-minded of independent filmmakers. He has long made the nuances of the business of art, and of business itself, central to his work, and many of the new episodes pursue these familiar themes in new directions. The seventh is centered on a street vender (played by Kali Skrap) who’s in the employ of another (Anthony Smith) and tries to go out on his own. The eighth involves two families and three businesses, with Dave Franco playing a garage-based beer brewer who wants to continue working as an independent—apart from his estranged brother (Evan Jonigkeit), who runs a major brewpub—and faces trouble from his gentrifying neighborhood, while the two brothers’ wives (Zazie Beetz and Aya Cash, respectively) are planning a risky expansion of their successful pet-treat business.

Swanberg’s independents, with their under-the-radar and unofficial ventures in their various fields, also have to face trouble with the law, and with the ways and wiles of power—including their own. A few men get long-overdue comeuppances and face the limits of their own abilities and self-knowledge. The themes and the passions of the episodes are contained only uncomfortably in the series’s episodic format. The grand ending of the ninth and final one, which is centered on the world of television production, and culminates in the painful, romantic confrontation of an actress (Gugu Mbatha-Raw) in a state of professional crisis with an ex (Jake Johnson, Swanberg’s longtime collaborator), suggests that the torrent of experience and emotion that Swanberg has unleashed in his three-season series is now awaiting a different, large-scale spectrum of form that goes beyond the standard dimensions of movies or television.

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Can the #NoBuy movement stop fast beauty?

May 27, 2019 | News | No Comments

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27th May 2019

There’s no denying that social media has revolutionised the way we approach beauty. Just look at the contouring phenomenon – YouTube’s top-performing tutorial racked up over 14 million views in the past year alone, and is still going strong seven years after Kim Kardashian posted a before-and-after, pre- and post-contouring selfie on Twitter. For more recent examples, simply search #glassskin on Instagram, which currently yields over 97,000 posts of perfectly “glossed-over” skin.

Having the latest trends and beauty brands at our fingertips has certainly fuelled the growth of fast beauty, and ensured we’re buying more product than ever before. The three-step “cleanse, tone and moisturise” routine has evolved into a potential eight-step ritual with the help of K beauty-inspired essences, serums, masks and mists. Global personal care and beauty product annual sales are projected to reach US $500 billion by 2020.

Yet, as awareness around sustainability rises, the tide may just be starting to turn against mass consumption, with a growing movement across social media that is encouraging us to rein in our beauty addiction in more ways than one.

The rise of #NoBuy beauty
While there are still plenty of unboxing videos and tutorials demo-ing the newest blush palette or CBD-infused mascara, there is a rising number of “no-buy beauty” posts gaining traction on social media. Instead of showcasing the latest launches, influencers are encouraging us to cut back on non-essential beauty purchases and take a more mindful approach.

When beauty blogger Serein Wu shared her no-buy video with her nearly 124k subscribers on YouTube in January, it was met with over 400 supportive comments. “I’ve always loved beauty, but it got to a point where it became excessive and more about how much I had versus the quality of each product,” says Wu. “Part of this was the increasing launch frequency of brands and part of it was being in the beauty community of always wanting more. It’s about quality over quantity, clean, ethically sourced ingredients and realistic quantities that I can use up. There’s satisfaction in hitting pan [reaching the end of the product] or finishing my favourite beauty oil.”

Another YouTuber, Hannah Louise Poston, completed her no-buy year in 2018 and revealed that she’d managed to bring her monthly skincare spending down from $220 to $49 by culling extras, including essences and cream masks. The video detailing how her no-buy year changed her skincare routine has been viewed over 28k times since December.

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Vogue investigates the rise of #NoBuy beauty. Image credit: Getty Images

The Attenborough effect on beauty
It’s not just financial benefits driving this movement. With the help of David Attenborough’s on Netflix and Swedish teen Greta Thunberg’s tireless campaigning, the impact of our actions on the environment is starting to make people rethink their consumption.

“Beauty is naturally a throwaway industry,” says Lisa Payne, senior beauty editor at trend intelligence company Stylus. But, she says, attitudes are starting to change. “[In the past,] if we didn’t like a shower gel or face cream, we didn’t think about recycling that product or finding a different use for it, we’d simply buy something else. Now this wastefulness is so much more obvious through the lens of sustainability.”

In January, the industry insider Instagram account Estée Laundry hosted a #shopmystash challenge to encourage its followers to use up their existing products and use the hashtag to share their efforts. “The idea is to use less, buy less and use up what you already own by shopping your own beauty stash,” the post stated. The challenge was so successful that Payne predicts it could eventually become as popular as Veganuary.  

Likewise, beauty blog Temptalia asked its readers how important it was to finish a product, which was met with comments including: “For me finishing up a product means I get all my money’s worth and I’m not generating more waste. And I’m not cluttering my life with more things I don’t need.”

The ‘skin fasting’ trend
Another approach making waves across social media is the idea of ‘skin fasting’, aka using no skincare products at all for a day or even a week, with the aim of improving the complexion (as well as cutting back on product consumption). It’s an approach championed by Japanese skincare brand Mirai Clinical. “By applying excessive amount of moisturiser on a daily basis, skin can become too lazy to produce its own natural oils and moisture,” says the brand’s founder Koko Hayashi. “Skipping moisturiser completely once a week, or reducing the amount, helps to wake up your skin’s natural ability to hydrate and balance from within.”

The technique has appeared on several threads in Reddit’s Skincare Addiction and Asian Beauty forums with people sharing their experiences of cutting out not just moisturiser, but most of their products in a bid to improve their skin. And, for those who regularly battle with skin flare-ups, there might be something in this. “Overuse of products may lead to skin irritation and taking a break can allow your skin to recover,” says Joshua Zeichner, director of cosmetic and clinical research at the department of dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital.

Vogue investigates the rise of #NoBuy beauty. Image credit: Getty Images

The skincare expert’s approach
The majority of skin experts, including aesthetic clinician Dr David Jack and dermatologist Dr Stefanie Williams, say that cleansing your skin twice a day – using an antioxidant serum and SPF during the day; and a retinol or vitamin C-based treatment in the evening – are fundamental steps we should all be following.

For those who want a little more guidance, it’s worth seeking out the advice of skincare consultancy Lion/Ne, which uses the diagnostic tool OBSERV to scan your skin for underlying conditions and then recommends specific products and in-salon services depending on your budget and lifestyle.

While #NoBuy and skin fasting posts may not generate as many likes or followers as the contouring trend, the influence is definitely positive; inspiring change whether it’s dramatically reducing the amount of products you use or simply finishing what’s already in your makeup bag before replacing. Let the move towards long-term, sustainable solutions in beauty continue.