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2nd Aug 2019

Louisa Ballou’s swimsuits are made for Instagram. So it’s no wonder they have caught the eye of Bella Hadid, who posted a picture of her wearing Ballou’s (now sold-out) tropical-inspired one-piece on holiday in Mykonos this week, after being introduced to the brand via PR friend Fanny Bourdette-Donon. “I woke up to all these messages from my friends,” Ballou, 26, tells on discovering the supermodel’s post. “It’s so cool to see people wearing things you create, especially someone like [Hadid].” 

It’s not just Hadid who has been won over by the Central Saint Martins (CSM) graduate’s work, which features bold, multicolour prints, striking cut-outs and heavy-duty O-rings. Buyers at luxury e-tailer Ssense quickly snapped up pieces from her 2017 degree collection, while the likes of Jorja Smith and Kali Uchis have also been spotted in her designs. 

While her one-pieces have garnered the most attention, the designer – who is also a keen surfer – emphasises that her brand is about more than just swimwear. Her collections also feature surf tops, mesh dresses and skirts that are designed to be layered on top of the swimsuits. “The pieces are versatile; you can wear them at the beach, but also style them with your other clothes,” she explains. 

Ballou’s experimentation with print and colour has been heavily inspired by her upbringing in Charleston, South Carolina, where she’s moved back to since graduating. “It’s always been in my visual vocabulary,” she says. “In Charleston, it’s a very tropical climate, so the colours are super vibrant. And my mom is a gardener by profession; she’s always had tropical flowers and plants.” An internship with Roksanda Ilincic while she was studying fashion print at CSM has influenced her work, too: “She’s so confident with how she uses colour; that definitely informed my approach.”

Ballou has also interned at high-end Spanish house Loewe and surf brand Vissla, and hopes to use this experience to bridge the gap between luxury and swimwear, in terms of design ethos and price point (her pieces start from $165). “My brand sits in-between a swim and a ready-to-wear brand,” she explains, adding that producing high-quality pieces that fit well is key. “I want the person wearing [my design] to feel good in it,” she says. “I really consider where it sits on the body, the most flattering lines and cut; how you can move in it as well.”

Now Bella Hadid’s a fan, expect to see Ballou’s designs filling your Instagram feed. She’s determined not to be swept up in the hype, though, and is already looking ahead to her next collection: “I’m not so much after a moment, I’m really looking to build a brand.”

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2nd Aug 2019

It’s midweek, mid-afternoon and you’ve hit a slump. How many of us have googled, ‘food to boost your mood’, before reaching for the sugar-rush anyway? 

Nutritional therapists and dietitians have long been advocating the link between mental health and diet, and there’s an ever-increasing amount of research in the area. So, grab a snack, as we recap everything you need to know about how food really can improve your mood.

The World Health Organisation reported that over 300 million people around the world battle with some form of depression. And, “studies show that there are clear links between your diet and mood,” says health behaviour change specialist Dr Heather McKee. 

This year, researchers at the University of Siena, Italy retrospectively reviewed data from psychiatric patients treated in 2017, looking specifically at their levels of vitamin D. The results confirmed that 94 per cent of those in the study showed vitamin D levels below the normal range, and suggested that “in addition to other benefits, vitamin D supplementation may improve the outcomes of illnesses like depression”. 

Meanwhile, a 2019 study by the University of Manchester compared data from over 46,000 people and found that improving diet had a positive effect on mental health, with weight-loss, fat reducing and nutrient-rich diets all having similar benefits for depressive symptoms. “This is actually good news,” says Dr Joseph Firth, honorary research fellow at The University of Manchester, explaining that the findings suggest that “highly-specific or specialised diets are unnecessary for the average individual.” Instead, Firth advocates simple changes: “Eating more nutrient-dense meals, which are high in fibre and vegetables, while cutting back on fast-foods and refined sugars, appears to be sufficient for avoiding the potentially negative psychological effects of a ‘junk food’ diet.” 

The gut is often referred to as our second brain. “Looking into the connection between the brain and the gut, it’s important to take into consideration that an estimated 90 per cent of serotonin receptors are located in the gut,” says McKee. Although, she continues: “Researchers recommend ‘fixing the food first’, ie. looking at what we eat, before trying gut modifying-therapies, such as probiotics and prebiotics, to improve how we feel.” 

That said, the research is there, and ever increasing. A study on mice by the University of Virginia in 2017 found that eating live-yoghurt containing the probiotic strain, Lactobacillus, reduces the amount of a metabolite in the blood called kynurenic, which helps to reduce inflammation and improve mood. While the researchers recognised that mice have no way to communicate feelings, they studied “depressive-like behaviour” and “despair behaviour”, thought to be the best model for looking at depression in animals. Following these results, lead researcher Alban Gaultier, PhD, is now testing these theories on people. “It would be magical just to change your diet, to change the bacteria you take, and fix your health – and your mood,” says Gaultier.

Elsewhere, Northeastern University in Boston are currently exploring a bacteria in our gut that produces an inhibitory neurotransmitter called gamma-aminobutyric acid (GABA). GABA interferes with signals sent between nerves, which keeps your brain from being overstimulated and provides a sense of calm. If this system isn’t working properly, it can lead to insomnia, anxiety and depression. While there has been significant research in the last 10 years linking the gut microbiome to various aspects of our health, microbiologist on the study Philip Strandwitz PhD, notes that “the general concept of delivering bacteria or manipulating gut bacteria to improve brain health is still new”. 

Strandwitz continues: “To be perfectly honest, this is a wild, wild frontier right now. We’re learning so much about ourselves and the brain is no longer this magical organ in isolation. Instead, it’s obviously connected to all facets of our being, and it turns out microbes are part of that.”

Probiotics and prebiotics: Once you’ve assessed your daily diet, it may be worth adding a probiotic and prebiotic into the mix. Fermented foods such as miso, kimchi and sauerkraut are rich in Lactobacillus and probiotic powerhouses. Registered dietitian Alexia Dempsey also recommends upping your in-take of inulin, a prebiotic that helps feed the bacteria, found in Jerusalem artichoke, chicory, lentils, broccoli and garlic. 

Tryptophan: Foods rich in tryptophan help to bolster your serotonin levels (the happy hormone), so up your intake of salmon, spinach, seeds and chicken to lift a low mood. 

Selenium: Selenium is a powerful antioxidant that helps to protect against oxidative damage and supports your immune and nervous systems. “If you are deficient in selenium it may increase the incidence of feeling depressed and other negative mood states, but eating as much as three brazil nuts a day can help lift your levels,” recommends Dempsey. 

B vitamins: “Thiamin B1, Niacin B3 or Cobalamin B12 play a role in energy metabolism, so a lack of them can make you feel tired, irritable and depressed,” explains Dempsey. While these are predominantly found in animal by-products, Marmite and dark leafy vegetables are vegan-friendly options.

Vitamin D: Oily fish, fish liver oils and fortified foods contain the highest levels of vitamin D, although supplements are the easiest way to up your intake.

Fats: “Fast foods and plant oils (omega 6 oils), including rapeseed and canola oils, can have a pro-inflammatory effect in our bodies,” explains nutritional therapist and author of , Petronella Ravenshear. “These foods induce inflammation, which directly increases the risk for depression.” That’s not to say all fat is bad. “There are anti-inflammatory fats which come from olive oil, avocados and oily fish that are worth stocking up on, as they reduce inflammation and help improve your mood,” says Ravenshear. 

Sugar: Unsurprisingly, Ravenshear is also an advocate of cutting back on sugar to avoid the highs and lows of unbalanced blood sugar levels. “We need whole unprocessed foods, such as fish and shellfish, vegetables including seaweed, fruit and nuts and seeds to stay healthy in mind and body,” she advises.

Water: If you tweak just one thing though, stay hydrated. “As little as 5 per cent dehydration can have effects on your concentration, mood and energy levels, so staying well hydrated might support a positive mood,” says Dempsey.

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Dempsey stresses that it’s important to “remember that depression and anxiety are multifactorial in their etiology and no one change is the answer. Seek professional help if you are worried about your mood.”

The search to find one’s professional calling is neither easy nor straightforward. Interviews, applications, prerequisites, emails, expectations from parents and friends, external pressures, hopes and aspirations, geographical barriers—all are possible hurdles we can face in the process of securing a job.

Whether approaching the end of a university degree, finishing high school or simply looking to segue careers, knowing which job is right for you can be an overwhelming, seemingly endless challenge, especially if you are a creative.

While some careers present more straightforward paths—study this, intern there, become that—other pursuits can be harder to channel into one single thing, and even harder to know how to apply or how to study for.

Enter our star signs. Horoscope readings have been used for years to tell us about everything from our love interests (is now the right month to court someone? Are we headed for emotional turmoil when Mercury is in retrograde?) to our financials to our moods. And, if we look carefully enough, star signs tell us a lot about our personalities, our character traits and—if mapped out properly—the kinds of jobs or industries we might be more inclined to.  

While the stars might not be able to tell us if we will like our jobs, how long we’ll work for or what we’ll be doing in a decade’s time, they might give us some clues. What job is written in your stars?

Above image credit: Søren Jepsen

Capricorn

22 December – 20 January

Ever heard that people born in this month are ambitious, persistent, practical and disciplined? Think about the Capricorns that are close to you: do these traits line up? An earth sign ruled by the planet Saturn, Capricorns pride themselves on being serious, independent and rooted in the real. For this reason, Capricorns are keen to learn, but keener to apply their learning in the real world, the workforce.

For the creative-yet-serious Capricorn, consider a Bachelor of Business you can transfer to a profession in retail environments or exhibition designs, or a Bachelor of Software Engineering from which you’ll qualify as a fully-fledged engineer or developer and can get straight to work.

Image credit: Søren Jepsen

Aquarius

21 January – 18 February 

If you’re born in this month, you’ll know this already: those with Aquarius signs are thought to be original, independent thinkers who enjoy intellectual stimulation and helping others. An air sign ruled by the planets Uranus and Saturn, the career prospects for the Aquarius-born range the gamut, given they have so many interests.

A Bachelor of Communication Design will meld your intellectual needs with your desires to help others, as you’ll be helping clients or companies to tell their stories better. And you’ll be able to accomplish this in countless ways: graphic design, photography, marketing and illustration to name a few… the possibilities are endless!

Image credit: Søren Jepsen

Pisces

19 February – 20 March

Chances are, if you’re a Pisces, you were born to work in a creative field. Passionate, intuitive, musical, artistic—all of these are the qualities that spring to mind in relation to people born in this month. A water sign ruled by the planets Neptune and Jupiter, Pisces like to share these qualities with others, so they’re probably best suited to working in groups.

One degree seems especially fitting for Pisces-born: a Bachelor of Digital Media. Rather than being restrained to a qualification that translates into one or two highly specific jobs, this degree allows you to flex different creative muscles. Potential roles you could fill at different companies? That of a 3D animator, character designer, creative director, game artist, visual effects artist, social media designer and video editor. You’re bound to find your passions in this mix.

Image credit: Jonathan Daniel Pryce

Aries

21 March – 19 April

Have any friends that are especially determined, optimistic, passionate and enthusiastic? Sounds like they were born in this month. A fire sign ruled by the planet Mars, Aries-born creatives are looking for dynamism and stimulation in matters of work and play.

Look no further: a Bachelor of Game Art should do just the trick. With this qualification, one can go on to become a game artist, an animator, a game programmer or even a data analyst or AI researcher—all excellent professions to show off your collaborative skills and knack for organisation.

Image credit: Søren Jepsen

Taurus

20 April – 20 May

Patient, reliable, responsible and practical. Do these qualities ring a bell? They should if your birthday unfolds in this month. An earth sign ruled by the planet Venus, people born in this month value tactical experiences and working hard to get the job done as best as they can.

A perfect balance of their qualities could be found in the following qualification: a Bachelor of Interior Design. With opportunities both commercial, residential and retail, Interior Designers can really exercise their knack for sensory stimulation here and can choose how hands-on they’d like to be, going on to become either brand strategists, joinery designers, retail design consultants or restaurant design consultants.

Image credit: Jonathan Daniel Pryce

Gemini

21 May – 21 June

Known for being equally as indecisive as they are quick to learn, Geminis can get a bad reputation. Yet when it comes to the creative fields, Geminis are famously known to be great artists, writers and athletes. An air sign ruled by the planet Mercury, Geminis enjoy having fun and learning about all that the world has to offer.

Gemini-born could end up doing a multitude of different things in their professional careers but consider, perhaps, a career in UX and web design. You could become an online producer or web designer, and then go on to found your own company, blog or business in whatever niche you’re most interested in. Your tertiary studies are just the beginning.

Image credit: Jonathan Daniel Pryce

Cancer

22 June – 22 July

Ever emotional and sensitive people, those born in this month truly value family, friends and their home. A water sign ruled by the Moon, a person with a Cancer sign is thought to be imaginative and persuasive, as well as tenacious.

So how to combine imagination with emotion, sensitivity with tenacity? Why not pour your energies into a Bachelor of Branded Fashion Design. Clothes, after all, communicate ideas to us and tug on our heart (and purse) strings. A qualification like this could lead to a myriad of different fashion-related jobs. You could go on to become a fashion buyer, a merchandise planner, a product developer, a textile designer or a trend forecaster. What will you choose?

Image credit: Jonathan Daniel Pryce

Leo

23 July – 22 August

If you are born in this month, we don’t need to tell you how creative, cheerful, passionate and humorous you are. You’re a lover of colour, of energy and entertainment, so when it comes to your line of work, you need to be stimulated at all times.

A fire sign ruled by the Sun, a Diploma of Photo Imaging might just satisfy your imaginations. With a qualification like this, you really can make of it what you wish, and easily segue into a photographic career specialising in weddings, food, sport, architecture or become a photo technician or re-toucher. No shortage of creative outlets here.

Image credit: Jonathan Daniel Pryce

Virgo

23 August – 22 September

Let’s get straight to the point: Virgos are practical, hardworking and have extreme attention to detail. And these qualities should be put to good use.

An earth sign ruled by the planet Mercury, Virgos are methodical and well organised, and can transfer these skills easily in a professional setting. So, when it comes to their studies, a Bachelor of Business seems like an obvious place to start. This will set the groundwork for their career, so consider this degree your foundation. From here, you can pursue more creative outlets, but with all of the necessary know-how.

Image credit: Jonathan Daniel Pryce

Libra

23 September – 23 October

Ever cooperative, fair and diplomatic, Libras lend themselves to creative careers because they are great at talking things through and listening to other people’s perspectives. They can foster great partnerships, which are key to producing the best work and maintaining long-term client relationships.

An air sign ruled by the planet Venus, Libras also love to indulge in art and music, so when considering possible study courses, a Bachelor of Communication Design seems like an ideal fit. You’ll have the chance to work with others and your ability to do so easily will shine through, whether you end up in the fields of illustration, design strategy, photography or book and publication design.

Image credit: Jonathan Daniel Pryce

Scorpio

24 October – 22 November

People born in this month are thought to be equally passionate as they are stubborn, and sometimes these two qualities can go hand-in-hand. A water signed ruled by the planets Pluto and Mars, Scorpio-born people are natural born leaders; they are decisive, assertive and know themselves and their interests.

That’s why students born in this month will probably gravitate towards degrees that are easily transferable into specific jobs. Take a Bachelor of Interior Design or a Bachelor of Software Engineering, for example. These qualifications will future proof your employment in jobs that cater to exactly what you studied, so you can go on to apply for work at an interior design firm or be hired as a software engineer.

Image credit: Jonathan Daniel Pryce

Sagittarius

23 November – 21 December

Sagittarius-born creatives appreciate travel, humour and feeding their curiosities. They are enthusiastic about all that the world has to offer and value their freedom to explore. A fire sign ruled by the planet Jupiter, it’s likely those born in this month will want to pursue a degree that gives them flexibility to exercise different creative muscles and enter into different career paths, or else they’ll grow bored.

A Bachelor of Digital Media should offer this versatility. With a qualification like this, one’s professional opportunities are really endless. Jobs run the gamut from 3D animator, to concept artist, to visual effects artist to a colour grader or video editor. And this open-endedness is a good thing, too, because there’s no need to limit your learning to one set thing.

Image credit: Jonathan Daniel Pryce

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What is it about Mustique, the private island in the Caribbean, that Prince William and Kate Middleton find so alluring? Is it perhaps the fact that it’s a rather beautiful hideaway? Or, that it boasts a world class security team, or maybe it’s the luxury facilities that allow for the royals to challenge each other in a game of tennis or scuba dive in the warm Caribbean sea. Whatever it is, it keeps the Cambridges coming back for more, year on year. 

The duke and duchess, who were last spotted holidaying in the sun-soaked destination this time last year, have been visiting Mustique since 2008. While they stayed at Cotton House in 2018, they opted for the five-star Villa Antilles for their most recent stay, where they celebrated Prince George’s sixth birthday.

Per The Sun, the family, who were accompanied by Middleton’s parents, forked out almost $48,000 per week to stay in the luxury five-bedroom villa – meaning their two-week holiday would have totaled approximately $96,000. 

Built in 2016 by property developer and friend of Prince William, Andrew Dunn, Villa Antilles proved the perfect place for the royals to rest and recuperate. Complete with a housekeeper, butler, live-in chef providing menus tailored to each guest’s wants and needs, 18-metre infinity pool, and private garden, the location was one we’re sure the royals will be returning to.

Described in an advertisement as “an exceptional new contemporary colonial-style villa set in the Endeavour Hills, with a captivating outlook to Bequia and St Vincent beyond,” the villa’s stunning sea views and al-fresco dining areas are no doubt a major draw card. To see inside the luxury location the royals vacationed in for yourself, scroll on. 

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Frequently Asked Questions: My Engagement

August 2, 2019 | News | No Comments

How’d he pop the question?

First of all, your assumption that Peter is the one who proposed is both appreciated and correct! As for the proposal: it was the most intimate moment of my life, which I’d be thrilled to tell you all about in detail. If you’re on Instagram, you can also watch the video, which was filmed in high definition by a small fleet of drones. It’s a crisp four hours of three-hundred-and-sixty-degree romance!

Were you surprised?!

Oh, my gosh, yes. Totally blindsided. I make it a point never to discuss the future, or really even my desires in general, with the person I’m dating. One day, I just started moving my stuff into Peter’s apartment, little by little—clothes, books, golden retriever—all while hoping he wouldn’t notice. And he never did! Isn’t it funny how everything just falls into place when you meet the one?

Let me see the ring!!!

Would you mind if I put this paper bag over my head first? I’ve found it really helps people focus on the rock so that they can quietly compare it to their own—or (if they’re single) derive some satisfaction from the discovery that I have fat fingers.

What’s your new name going to be?

It’s pronounced “Peter’s Wife,” or “Ma’am” for short.

I know you just got engaged yesterday, but do you have a date set for the wedding?

I’ve been planning this wedding since kindergarten, when I would regularly use show-and-tell as an opportunity to flaunt my skills in hand-stencilling place cards and assembling tasteful peony arrangements. Your save-the-date is already in the mail.

Are you going to do one of those wedding boot camps to get your body nuptial-ready?

Absolutely. Although I want to look like myself on my wedding day, I want to look like a version of myself that deserves to get married. I can’t even imagine how mortifying it would be to get married in my regular, everyday body.

Is Peter going to help with the planning?

Believe it or not, Peter’s actually been a huge help so far. He’s gone above and beyond when I’ve had questions for him, like, “Are you available to marry me on August 21st?” and “Did you want the fish or the steak?” I just hope I’m not being too much of a nuisance!

What can I get you for a gift?

Honestly, Peter and I have been living together for four years. We’re both in our mid-thirties and have previously inhabited six apartments each, which we fully furnished ourselves. That said, we put together a modest Bed Bath & Beyond registry with two hundred and thirty-one items—just a few marital necessities, like fifteen slightly different serving spoons with fifteen slightly different spoon rests. Though we may not be able to make use of these things right now, we know we’ll be grateful to have them in the future, once we move into a bigger place and can finally host our first Spoonapalooza.

So, how does it feel?!

Like most women, I’ve gone through life feeling content but somehow incomplete. It’s like there was always a piece missing, and I didn’t know at the time that this piece was shaped like a one-point-five-carat princess-cut diamond. Now I finally feel whole.

Are there kids on the horizon?

Oh, yes. Once Peter and I are married, unprotected sex will be our top priority! For more information on that, please refer to “Frequently Asked Questions: My Uterus.”

Anybody who doubts the power of artists to effect real-world change is not keeping up with the news. Earlier this month, the Louvre became the latest major museum to cut financial ties with the Sackler family, following pressure from the photographer Nan Goldin and her crew of anti-opioid activists. And, last week, on July 25th, Warren B. Kanders, the vice-chairman of the board of the Whitney, who has reportedly donated more than ten million dollars to the museum since 2006, resigned, after a group of artists announced that they would remove their work from the Whitney Biennial, widely considered the country’s most prestigious contemporary-art exhibition. At issue was Kanders’s ownership of the Safariland Group, a manufacturer of tear gas whose use has been documented against migrants at the U.S.-Mexico border (and, allegedly, less than two weeks ago, against protesters in Puerto Rico). But the Whitney Biennial has been open since May, and demonstrations against the trustee—and calls for Kanders’s ouster—have been ongoing since late last year. The series of events that led to him finally stepping down show how rapidly, if circuitously, standards of accountability in the art world are shifting.

The Times broke the news of Kanders’s resignation, but a scrappier outlet, Hyperallergic (tag line: “sensitive to art and its discontents”), has been covering the story since November. That month, the site published pictures of Safariland tear-gas cannisters, taken by a freelance journalist at the border, along with a story detailing Kanders’s role in the company. Within a few days, a hundred Whitney employees (including Rujeko Hockley, a co-curator of the Biennial) signed a letter calling for a “clear policy” regarding qualifications for museum trustees, and asking, “Is there a moral line?” In response, the Whitney’s director, Adam Weinberg, wrote, “We respect the right to dissent as long as we can safeguard the art in our care and the people in our midst.”

Dissent rapidly escalated. In early December, during the museum’s Andy Warhol retrospective (of which Kanders was a funder), firefighters halted activists holding a sage-burning ceremony in the Whitney’s atrium; it was staged by Decolonize This Place, a post-Occupy Wall Street movement whose sweeping concerns, according to its Web site, include “Indigenous struggle, Black liberation, free Palestine, global wage workers and de-gentrification.” In the lead-up to the Biennial, beginning in March, Decolonize organized weekly protests at the museum—“No safe space for profiteers of state violence,” one poster read—with a coalition of some thirty other political groups, culminating in a march to Kanders’s town house nearby. But, of the seventy-five artists and collectives included in the Biennial, only one, the Iraqi-American Conceptualist Michael Rakowitz, withdrew from the exhibit, to boycott what he described in an interview as Kanders’s “toxic philanthropy.” Several artists instead chose to reflect their sentiments in their contributions to the show, most prominently Forensic Architecture, which is exhibiting a short film (made in collaboration with Laura Poitras) that is a primer on the damaging effects of tear-gas grenades, and which specifically calls out Kanders.

What brought the matter to a head was a letter published, on July 17th, on Artforum’s Web site, by three young writers and artists: Ciarán Finlayson, Tobi Haslett, and Hannah Black (who was also instrumental in an outcry against a Dana Schutz painting of Emmett Till, in the 2017 Biennial). Titled “The Tear Gas Biennial,” it called upon artists to remove their work from the exhibition, and cited for inspiration an incident at the Whitney from 1970, when the sculptor Robert Morris closed an exhibition two weeks early, in solidarity with the New York Artists’ Strike Against Racism, Sexism, Repression, and War. “Against a backdrop of prestigious inertia and exhausted critique, it can be hard to marshal our most vital feelings: our anger, our love, and our grief,” the authors wrote. “We know that this society is riven by inequities and brutal paradoxes. Faced with this specific profiteer of state violence, we also find ourselves in a place to act. It is not a pristine place. But we must learn—again, or for the first time—to say no.”

Within two days, eight artists asked to have their works pulled from the show. Notable among them was the MacArthur fellow Nicole Eisenman, whose brilliantly rude gaggle of figurative sculptures, installed on one of the Whitney’s outdoor terraces, had been most critics’ pick for best in show. (Forensic Architecture asked that its film be removed, based on new research that it alleges relates to Kanders’s partial interest in the company Sierra Bullets.) To some, the withdrawals seemed misguided. A group of six Biennial artists announced their plans to boycott the boycott—the gist being that what needed to go was the patron, not their works of art. Elsewhere, there were grumbles that this was “the have-your-cake-and-eat-it-too Biennial.” After all, the April issue of Artforum included a glowing, behind-the-scenes feature about the making of Eisenman’s suite for the Whitney. But, in the end, given the paradigm-shifting consequences of the “Tear Gas” letter—its power to topple a multimillionaire from his board seat, and its courageous demand for a future of ethical patronage—the truth-to-power Biennial is more on the mark.

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The message of “The Tear Gas Biennial” is unarguably—demonstrably—deeply compelling. But its efficacy almost certainly had to do with its delivery system. Power in the art world is concentrated, and Artforum has been its most influential publication for decades. Months of coverage in Hyperallergic and weeks of rallying by Decolonize This Place had put the protest on the mainstream radar, but it was a single strike of prose in Artforum’s pages that was able to radically shift the conversation. Of course, the major power dynamic at play in this story is the one between art and money. For too long, patronage of the arts has come with patronizing attitudes toward artists—that they should be grateful for funding, no matter its source. The obscenely inflated contemporary art market—whose metrics are based on auction results, from which artists don’t see a penny—has created the impression of art as a playground for the wealthy. But the delusion that art is an oasis in which beauty is truth and politics are irrelevant is more risible than it ever has been. Art isn’t made in a vacuum, and neither is money.

Image credit: courtesy of Natsai Audrey Chieza 

Clashing, two-tone, co-ord, block… wearing colour is fundamental to our self-expression. But with dyeing techniques contributing so heavily to the climate crisis, our love of colour is going to make the world a much duller place unless things change, fast. “We need to change the whole landscape of the industry,” says Michael Stanley-Jones, co-secretary of the UN Alliance for Sustainable Fashion. He’s one of eight experts sharing their insight with on what’s being done to tackle fashion’s dyeing art. Here are the five key problems, and some potential solutions.

The problem: water waste

On a global scale, the textile industry uses between six to nine trillion litres of water each year, just for fabric dyeing. At a time when every continent is now facing water scarcity issues, that’s like filling more than two million Olympic swimming pools every year with fresh water, then not letting anyone swim in them. (Not that you’d want to swim in the toxic water of a dyeing mill.) 

Possible solution: biologically inspired materials

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“I think there’s a lack of diversity around how two knowledge systems can create something new,” says Natsai Audrey Chieza (above), designer and founder of creative biodesign agency Faber Futures. Chieza is one of the leading voices in the growing biodesign movement, which integrates living things like bacteria into new materials, products and even artworks. “Design and science working together is about combining two different ways of knowing and doing, to try and tackle a problem.” 

Chieza creates opportunities for collaboration between creatives and scientists on “planet-centred” products and systems. In 2011, her team discovered that a pigment-producing microbe could be used as clothing dye. The colour oscillates between pinks and blues, depending on the pH of the soil in which the microbe is found, and creates a beautiful array of effects on fabric including tie-dye. Crucially, it also uses 500 times less water then standard dyeing techniques, and totally cuts out harmful chemicals. “If you look more creatively at natural materials, or in this case designing with living systems, you can do something quite special,” says Chieza. “You can arrive at something fundamentally different.”

Waste dumped into Turag River in Bangladesh, 2018. Image credit: Getty Images 

The problem: chemicals

Almost three-quarters of all the water consumed by dyemills ends up as undrinkable waste – a toxic soup of dyes, salts, alkalis, heavy metals and chemicals that are used to fix colour to our clothes. “Some of the chemicals used in Indian dye houses are actually banned in Europe – a conundrum for those of us wearing imported clothes,” says Virginia Newton-Lewis, senior policy analyst at WaterAid. Filtering waste water is costly, too, and in the world’s dyeing hubs of Bangladesh (above), India and China, it is often illegally discharged into rivers, which turn into an acidic spew of colour. (In Mumbai the water once became so polluted that local dogs turned completely blue after swimming.) “These waste water chemicals can affect the local ecosystem, or the people who use the water for fishing, washing or even drinking,” explains Laila Petrie, WWF textiles and cotton global lead. “They can harm plants and animals, and potentially enter the food chain.”

Possible solution: dyes made from by-product

Biotech company Colorifix is seeking to roll out fabric dyes that are sustainable on three fronts: environmental, social and economical. Set up in 2015, the company converts molasses – the by-product of sugar – into colourants that can be used for textile dyeing. The method doesn’t demand extra arable land use (unlike some natural dyes), but can be applied to areas where sugar is already grown. Colorifix also replaces fixing chemicals – the most toxic aspect of the dyeing process – with the by-products of biofuels, which co-founder and CEO Dr Orr Yarkoni explains are a primary crop with a positive environmental function. Reusing waste materials “means that the whole process uses 10 times less water, and 20 per cent less energy”.

Image credit: Getty Images 

The problem: unemployment risk 

Dye houses offer a vital source of employment and income in emerging economies –  81 per cent of Bangladesh’s export economy, for example, is purely ready made garments (above). Women, who represent around 80 per cent of the global garment workforce, are most at risk of being affected by any systematic changes or products that aren’t carefully considered. So it’s crucial that biodesign envisions materials that are not going to cause mass unemployment. 

Possible solution: state intervention

“Any radical change can have a hugely negative impact if it is not planned correctly,” says Yarkoni, noting that Colorifix has only replaced the actual dye, and not any jobs or machines. In Stanley-Jones’ view, too much reliance is being placed on technologists, like Yarkoni, to solve the climate crisis. “The only way real change can happen is if we rapidly share innovations that work and roll these out more quickly – everyone needs to have access to the same information, and technologies,” Stanley-Jones says. In his role for the UN, Stanley-Jones helps to coordinate different climate projects and actions by member governments, agencies and allies. It’s only through this integrated approach, he says, that the right types of incentives, investments and legislations can be thrashed out globally; ultimately create systematic change. “It isn’t just science and technology that we need to save us,” Stanley-Jones explains, “we also need unified action from the societies and governments of the world.”

The problem: hardwired consumerism

The difficulty with sustainability is that it’s a term that encompasses so many different issues – so while it’s great to hear of a fashion brand championing low-impact dyeing, it’s futile if the product is then thrown away, or the supply chain turns out to be exploitative. The linear ‘take, consume, destroy’ approach has been around for centuries and it appears to be challenging for businesses to break with this tradition to influence change.

Image credit: courtesy of Javier Gutierrez

Possible solution: a circular economy

Championed by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, the idea of a circular economy envisions products that are designed and optimised for a continual circle of recycling and dissembling. If picked up globally, it would be the biggest shift in human consumption since the industrial revolution. BITE Studios is one example – a luxury womenswear brand with an aesthetic based entirely on a palette of natural dyes. “Using natural dyes is a way of communicating a deeper sense of mindfulness around products and consumerism,” explains creative director Elliot Atkinson. Crucially, the dyes are just one aspect of BITE Studio’s sustainable goal. “We plan to buy back the collection pieces from customers, give them 20 per cent off their next purchase, and then create new pieces from the old stock,” explains BITE Studio’s COO Veronika Kant. The idea is to create a circular system, redesigning, reusing and reselling the clothing. “We want to create a real connection between the client and the garment,” explains Kant.

The problem: scaling natural dyes

Natural dyes are more environmentally friendly than synthetic – but they’re no silver bullet for mass production. Tricky to source, they can still require heavy metals to fix the colour, and often need arable land for planting.

Possible solution: resurrecting artisan techniques

Ever since synthetic processes were introduced during the 1960s, knowledge about natural dyeing has dwindled to the point of extinction – but the climate crisis has spurred many artisans to reclaim age-old techniques. “The colours that come from plants go beyond just beauty – dyes are connected to a living being, a higher knowledge and wisdom,” says Mexican textile artist Porfirio Gutiérrez. Based in Oaxaca, his family is working on a book that commits thousand-year-old, word-of-mouth techniques – think cochineal insects for reds, tree moss for golds, pomegranate for blacks – to a wider audience. But though he’s a passionate educator, Guttiérez doesn’t see natural dyes as being sustainably scalable. “I don’t think multinationals should be switching to natural dyes,” he says. “Natural dyes were never meant for mass commercialism, they are for personal clothing and expression.” And while the most sustainable form of self-expression would be to dye and make our own clothes, it’s good to know that biodesign could have our back, too. “Right now, we are being forced to choose between style and sustainability, which has weakened what nature tended to present to us,” adds Chieza. “Working with nature, and not taking from it, is how we can innovate.”

A well-told film has the power to transport you from your living room to another space and time altogether. All of a sudden, your couch is Michael Hynson’s surfboard as you search for the perfect wave across South Africa and Hawaii (Endless Summer), or your reading light overhead is a lamppost on the streets of Vienna, witnessing a serendipitous love story between two strangers whose souls met years ago (Before Sunrise). Read through the gallery below for 40 of our favourite films that will take you from Nairobi to Paris, no passport required.

Out of Africa (1985)
Based on the autobiographical novel by Isak Dinesen (the pseudonym of Danish author, Karen Blixen), Out of Africa is the tragic love story of Karen (played by Meryl Streep), a noble woman who falls in love with Denys (Robert Redford), a local big-game hunter, while en route to Nairobi.

2. True (2004)
A French short film in which protagonist, Thomas believes that his girlfriend, Francine (Natalie Portman) has broken up with him. The film is a dizzying flurry of images and intimate moments—such as the time they met and their first kiss—leaving Thomas to reflect on where it went wrong.  

3. Midnight in Paris (2011)
Part-fantasy, part-reality, Midnight In Paris sees Gil (Owen Wilson) touring Paris alone at midnight, only to be seemingly whisked back in time by a group of people dressed in 1920s attire. Here he meets and converses with iconic figures from this period such as Ernest Hemingway and F. Scott Fitzgerald, leaving Gil to reflect on his life in the present.

4. The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel (2011)
Featuring perhaps the most well-versed cast in Hollywood, Dame Judi Dench, Bill Nighy and Maggie Smith star as a group of pensioners who decide to move to a retirement hotel in exotic (and less expensive) India.

5. The Beach (2000)
Backpacking through South East Asia, Richard (Leonardo DiCaprio), is desperately seeking something more meaningful when a fellow traveller suggests he venture to a secret island. Only a handful of travellers know about the secret utopia with white sandy beaches and crystal clear water – but as it turns out, paradise isn’t permanent.

6. Up in the Air (2009)
The ultimate frequent-flyer movie; dry and cynical Ryan Bingham (George Clooney) works for a human resources consultancy firm and lives out of a suitcase, flying around the USA to fire employees. Falling in love with a fellow frequent-flyer however, threatens to crack his hard exterior.

7. Away We Go (2009)
Looking for the perfect place to raise their soon-to-be-born baby, Verona (Maya Rudolph) and Burt (John Krasinski) travel across America. The journey sees the couple venture to Arizona, Wisconsin and Miami before finding their happily-ever-after town.

8. Under the Tuscan Sun (2003)
Newly divorced Frances Mayes (Diane Lane) impulsively purchases a rural Tuscan villa while touring Italy. Mayes attempts to build a new life, meeting various love interests and personalities along the way. 

9. Raiders of the Lost Ark (1981)
The first installment of the Indiana Jones franchise sees Jones (Harrison Ford) brave an ancient booby trapped temple in Peru before venturing to Nepal and Cairo to recover the Ark of the Covenant from the Nazis.

10. The Holiday  (2006)
A classic Nancy Meyers film featuring impeccably designed houses, The Holiday sees two women—troubled by past relationships with men—agree to exchange houses (in different continents) over the holiday season. Amanda (Cameron Diaz) leaves her LA lifestyle behind for the quaint town of Surrey in England and Iris (Kate Winslet) ventures to the City of Angels. Naturally, they both find love and happiness in their new worlds.

11. Coming to America (1988)
Escaping an arranged marriage in Africa, Prince Akeem (Eddie Murphy), flees to America to find a wife (and queen) who will love him despite his title. Disguising himself as a foreign student who works at a local fast-food shop, Prince Akeem meets and romances Lisa (Shari Headley).

12. Y Tu Mamá También (2001)
Over the course of a summer, 17-year-old best friends, Julio and Tenoch, set-off on a cross-country adventure with the company of a stunning older woman. The coming of age Mexican drama sees the pair find a connection with the world around them, while unknowingly finding a sense of discovery within themselves. 

13. Easy Rider (1969)
After completing a drug deal in Southern California, Wyatt and Billy decide to seek an alternate lifestyle, travelling across the country on Chopper motorcycles in search of a more meaningful life.

14. The Secret Life of Walter Mitty (2013)
Walter Mitty (Ben Stiller), an employee at Life magazine works monotonously developing photos for the publication. When the magazine is occupied by new owners, Mitty is sent on the adventure of a lifetime on a mission to find the perfect photo for the final print issue.

15. Into The Wild (2007)
An adaptation of Jon Krakauer’s book of the same name, Into The Wild, starring Emile Hirsch, is a coming-of-age film based on the real-life travels of Christopher McCandless (or “Alexander Supertramp” as he prefers to be called) through North America, and eventually into the wilderness of Alaska.   

16. A Good Year (2006)
Russell Crowe stars as Max Skinner, an unethical London banker who inherits his uncle’s vineyard in Provence. Arriving in Provence, Skinner meets the unknown illegitimate daughter of his uncle and realises that according to French law, she becomes the rightful heir to the property.

17. Romancing the Stone (1996)
Joan Wilder (Kathleen Turner) is a successful novelist from New York City, specialising in romantic adventures. Her fictional worlds become somewhat of a reality when her sister is kidnapped and Joan is sent to save her, meeting Jack Colton (Michael Douglas), an exotic bird smuggler, along the way.

18. Doctor Zhivago (1965)
Set in Russia during the revolution, Doctor Zhivago dictates the life of a married Russian physician who falls in love with a political activist’s wife.

20. The English Patient (1996)

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An adaptation of Michael Ondaatje’s novel of the same title, The English Patient is set in the Sahara desert during the second World War. Laszlo de Almasy (Ralph Fiennes), a badly injured plane-crash victim is tended to by Hana (Juliette Binoche), a nurse on site. Both characters reflect on their lives during and before the war through a series of flashbacks.

21. Vicky Cristina Barcelona (2008)
Starring Scarlett Johansson and Penélope Cruz, Vicky Cristina Barcelona is the story of a girls’ summer vacation to Barcelona filled with food, art and sex.

22. Lost in Translation (2003)
Bob Harris (Bill Murray) and Charlotte (Scarlett Johansson) meet by chance in Tokyo, forming a meaningful bond and a much needed escape in the foreignness and bright lights of Tokyo.

23. Catch Me If You Can (2002)
A master in the art of forgery, Frank Abagnale, Jr. (Leonardo DiCaprio) has ‘worked’ as a doctor, lawyer and co-pilot of a major airline, all before his 18th birthday. His skills allowed Abagnale to become the most successful bank robber in US history, making it FBI agent, Carl Hanratty’s (Tom Hanks) prime mission to capture him.

24. Amélie (2001)
Shot in over 80 Paris locations, Amélie captures the charm and mystery of modern-day Paris through the eyes of a fanciful young woman.

25. Before Sunrise (1995)
On July 16, 1994, Jesse (Ethan Hawke) meets Céline (Julie Delpy) aboard a train in Europe. Jesse convinces Céline to disembark with him in Vienna, and the pair spend the entire night walking around the city, exchanging intimate details about their lives before hesitantly departing at sunrise.

26. The Motorcycle Diaries (2004)
Ernesto ‘Che’ Guevara and his friend, Alberto Granado travel from Brazil to Peru by motorcycle while on semester break of medical school. The pair witness the economic disparity of South America where poor citizens are exploited by wealthy industrialists. The film is based on the real-life memoir of Ernesto Guevara who years later became internationally known as Marxist commander and revolutionary, Che Guevara.

27. Little Miss Sunshine (2006)
Aspiring beauty queen, Olive, learns she has qualified for the Little Miss Sunshine beauty pageant in California, which sees her hilariously dysfunctional family pile into a Volkswagen van and travel 800 miles across America to support her.

28. The Grand Budapest Hotel (2014)
Directed by Wes Anderson, The Grand Budapest Hotel is the comical story of Monsieur Gustave H (Ralph Fiennes), a devoted hotel concierge who goes above and beyond to provide service for his wealthy clientele, which include many elderly women. When one of these women (Madame D, played by Tilda Swinton) mysteriously dies, Gustave becomes a prime suspect in her murder.

28. Eat Pray Love (2010)
Based on Elizabeth Gilbert’s best-selling memoir, Eat Pray Love follows newly divorced Gilbert (played by Julia Roberts) on a quest of self-discovery as she travels to Italy, India and Bali.

30. The Darjeeling Limited (2007)
Having not spoken in over a year, estranged brothers Francis (Owen Wilson), Peter (Adrien Brody) and Jack (Jason Schwartzman), reunite for a trip to India in an attempt to bond with each other.

31. Almost Famous (2001)
15-year-old William, an aspiring music journalist, finds himself touring with up-and-coming band Stillwater on assignment for Rolling Stone magazine. The tour takes William, the band, and a parade of groupies including Penny Lane (Kate Hudson) throughout North America, exposing relationship tensions within the band. The coming-of-age film also includes a singalong of one of the greatest road-tripping songs of all time – Elton John’s ‘Tiny Dancer’.

32. Wild (2014)
Based on Cheryl Strayed’s memoir Wild: From Lost to Found on the Pacific Crest Trail, the film follows Strayed (played by Reese Witherspoon) on a journey of self-discovery and healing, where she reflects on stories and memories of her childhood and past.

33. Endless Summer (1966)
Filmmaker and fellow competitive surfer Bruce Brown follows surfers Michael Hynson and Robert August around the world on a surfing adventure, leaving California in search of waves in Hawaii, South Africa and Australia. The film also features an instrumental soundtrack by The Sandals that plays over surfing footage.

34. Roman Holiday (1953)
A black-and-white classic, Roman Holiday sees European princess, Ann (Audrey Hepburn), take off for a day of adventures in Rome, trailed by American reporter Joe Bradley (Gregory Peck).

35. Carol (2015)
Set in New York City in the early 1950s, Carol tells the story of a forbidden affair between Carol Aid (Cate Blanchett) and a young aspiring photographer, Therese Belivet (Rooney Mara).

36. To Catch a Thief (1955)
John Robie (Cary Grant) is a retired cat burglar who is suspected for a series of robberies that have occurred in the French Riviera. Robie attempts to catch the imposter to prove his innocence, while also becoming romantically entangled with American socialite Frances Stevens (Grace Kelly).

37. Murder on the Orient Express (2017)
Based on Agatha Christie’s crime-fiction novel, this is a 2017 remake of the 1974 film of the same title. A lavish trip through Europe aboard the Orient Express comes to a halt when Hercule Poirot (Kenneth Branagh) is called aboard to solve a murder that has happened overnight.

38. The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert (1994)
Drag queens Anthony (Hugo Weaving), Adam (Guy Pearce) and Bernadette (Terence Stamp) drive across Australia from Sydney to Alice Springs on board a bus named Priscilla, performing their show and encountering a host of colourful local characters along the way.

39. Call Me By Your Name (2017)
It’s summer 1983 and 17-year-old Elio Perlman is spending it with his family at their villa in Lombardy, Italy. Here, a romance begins to blossom between Perlman and an older man hired as his father’s assistant.

40. Two for the Road (1967)
Husband and wife Mark Wallace (Albert Finney) and Joanna (Audrey Hepburn) travel to France to meet with one of Mark’s clients. The pair reflect on their first decade of marriage together, both seemingly bored with the banality of married life.

Thelma and Louise (1991)
The ultimate girl power movie; Susan Sarandon and Geena Davis star as meek housewives whose humble fishing trip turns into a flight from the law when Louise (Sarandon) shoots and kills a man who tries to assault Thelma (Davis) at a bar.