If you have a Diatomaceous Earth (DE) pool filter, congratulations. There is no better type of pool filter to have working to keep your water clean and healthy. But D.E. filters require a little more maintenance than sand or cartridge filters. This is due to their more complicated design, with twice the number of internal parts as compared to sand or cartridge. They are also more complicated in operation, requiring the operator to maintain the ‘cake’ of filter powder on the grids, and flush out the grids with a hose at least once per year.

Let’s take a look at some common DE pool filter repairs, all of which you can do yourself, with the help of our pool filter parts.

DE Pool Filter Repairs: Leaks

Leaking Clamp Band

The first DE pool filter repair is one of the most common, a leaking clamp band. Start with a clean and lubed belly band o-ring. Dirty, dry o-rings don’t seal very well. When tightening your clamp band, make sure it’s centered over both tank halves, and tighten the clamp with a socket wrench, until the springs touch. If the clamp band leaks, shut off the pump right away, loosen and reposition the clamp band. Tighten up again, using the handle of the socket wrench, or other heavy tool, to tap the clamp band around the edges, as you tighten. This tapping will help to seat the clamp over the tank halves. If it still leaks, inspect the o-ring and clamp band or filter tank halves for damage.

Leaking Drain Plug

The drain plug for your filter tank should be wrapped 3x with Teflon tape (wrap the threads in a clockwise direction). Some DE filters also have a large o-ring on the drain plug. Using a pool lube will prevent it from dry rotting, and can help in sealing up a leaking drain plug.

Leaking Air Relief

The air bleeder on top of the filter tank (sometimes automatic, sometimes manual), is meant to release air from the tank during start-up. It’s an important safety measure to open it before turning the filter pump back on. If it drips water, there is usually an o-ring that is missing from the air relief stem. If the assembly is cracked around the pressure gauge, this is usually caused by having years of Teflon tape built up on the gauge, expanding and cracking the plastic housing. Super glue can sometimes effectively repair this little crack. Squirt in while open, then unthread the pressure gauge.

Leaking Valve

The filter valve on a DE filter is unique, and different from side mounted sand filter valves. If your valve is leaking, either around the lid, around the handle, or where the pipes come in and out of the valve, there is probably a need for some valve parts (not considered filter parts). Water leaking out of the backwash port while the valve is in the filter position, would indicate a need for a new spider gasket, or piston o-rings, if you have a push-pull slide valve.

DE Leaking from Manifold

In the video, Rob replaces the DE filter manifold on cousin Joe’s Pentair DE pool filter. The manifold had cracked around the air bleeder assembly, probably from running too long at high pressure, or a return side valve could have been closed, causing a water hammer effect to crack the plastic. Manifolds can also crack if the grid assembly falls over hard while it’s out of the filter tank being cleaned. A common cause of DE in the pool is a missing or damaged manifold air bleeder ‘sock’ or ‘screen’, which are used as strainers for the air bleeder on top of the manifold.

DE Leaking from Grids

Over time, DE grids will develop small holes in the fabric, or the stitching on the grids can begin to unravel. A loose grid assembly, with the thru-bolts not fully tightened, or from incorrectly spaced grids, can allow DE powder to bypass through small holes where the grid inserts into the manifold. Chemical damage can burn holes through the fabric, or a severe water hammer effect can crush grids. Grids can also be crushed if you store them in the garage during winter, from an SUV! You can usually find holes in grids by hosing them clean and inspecting thoroughly. DE grids with holes or other damage can be replaced individually, or you can buy the entire grid set.

DE Leaking from Standpipe

Most DE filters have a PVC standpipe, where the manifold connects, and on top of the standpipe is a small o-ring to seal-up the manifold to the standpipe. If this o-ring goes missing or breaks, you can pass small amounts of DE and dirt back into the pool.

DE Passing Through Valve

If DE powder passes through to the pool mainly when you add new DE powder, this could indicate a problem with the gaskets or o-ring inside of your filter valve (Multiport or Slide valve for backwashing), which also means that your filter valve is bypassing some water without being filtered.

DE Around the Main Drain

If you notice DE powder spilling out of your skimmers, or a cloud of powder around the main drain, this means that the filter is back-draining through the pump, and spilling DE powder back into the pool. FInding the air leak on the filter, or installing a check valve will fix this problem, and keep the water in the pump and filter, so it doesn’t drain out through the skimmers or drain.

High Filter Pressure

You’ve backwashed and added new DE powder, but the filter pressure stays high, or it drops only for a few hours. First, check that the pressure gauge is accurate and not stuck. Also confirm that nothing downstream of the filter is causing the high pressure, like a closed valve or a pipe obstruction.

Next, pull out the grid assembly and hose off completely. Reassemble and add the recommended amount of DE for your pool filter, which is usually 1lb of DE for each 5 sq. ft. of filter surface area (a 1 lb. measure for DE powder is the size of a 1 lb coffee can). If you still have the issue, clean the filter grids with a DE filter cleaner, to remove oils and minerals that are clogging the grids.

Your new pool pump is an extremely vital piece of equipment; it is the “heart” of your swimming pool. Just as your heart circulates the blood throughout your body, a pool pump circulates the water throughout your pool.

A pool pump consists of an electric motor and wet end assembly. The motor spins an impeller inside an air tight housing which creates suction, to pull water from the pool, and push it through a filter and back to the pool. Pool water needs to be regularly and fully circulated to stay clean and clear. Without a pool pump circulating your pool water, or a filter to remove contaminants, a swimming pool quickly becomes stagnant and unpleasant.

First, water is drawn from the pool through a hose or pipe called the influent line. The influent line leads into the pump where water is passed through a strainer basket and on to the impeller. The impeller, a rotating turbine that is attached to the electric motor shaft, creates centrifugal force as it spins. This centrifugal force, meaning the outward movement of the water caused by the impellers rotation, is what forces water out through the effluent hose or pipe, leading to the filter.

Inground pools require self-priming pumps as the pump usually sits above water level. Priming refers to the pool pump being able to lift water up vertically, from the pool. Conversely, above ground pool pumps are not self-priming. These types of pumps usually sit below the water line; therefore they rely on gravity to prime. In some cases, on aboveground pools, the pump needs to be located above the waterline. In these types of applications, a self-priming (inground) pool pump should be used.

Is Bigger Better?

American’s have a V-8 mentality; we like big engines. It’s common for pool owners to buy a pump larger than they need, and even some dealers of builders are guilty of being horsepower hogs. Many 2hp pumps have been installed when a 1hp pump could deliver the same flow volume, with greatly reduced energy usage. Larger pumps not only produce larger electrical bills, but having an over-sized pool pump can lead to poor filtration when matched with smaller pool filters.

Luckily, the industry is working its way out of this blind assumption that bigger is better, and sizing pumps accurately has been improving. And now, with the need for efficiency in our energy poor states, Two-Speed pumps have becom more popular and Variable Speed pumps were developed, to provide even greater energy savings. Many states have now mandated that new or replacement pumps over 1 HP must be either two speed or variable speed. California, Arizona, Florida and Texas have such laws already, and by 2021 Variable Speed Pumps will be required in every state in the U.S..

A single speed pump is going to run at one speed (3400 rpm) every time it’s on, until it is off. A two-speed will have the option to run at a high or low speed. A great advantage to these is that when you are vacuuming or skimming, the pump can be running at a high speed and once that is completed you can revert down to the low speed.

Is it Horsepower, or RPM’s?

Larger horsepower pumps “draw more amps” – and that’s what you really pay for on your electric bill, Amperes. If you can reduce the size of the horsepower on a replacement pump, you will definitely see savings. This can be accomplished by using a High Head pump, or a pump that produces more water volume. For instance, a 1hp Whisperflo pump will produce the same flow rate as a 2hp Superpump, at a greatly reduced amperage requirement.

Variable speed pumps are a bit different. They are definitely High Head pumps, but have the ability to control the RPM’s of the motor. But variable speed pumps aren’t sold by horsepower – that’s because they are All horsepower, and they dial in the amount of horses needed, to produce the lowest amount of motor revolutions, to get the job done.

As the chart shows, reducing the speed at which the motor turns, saves an almost equal amount of electricity. Variable speed pumps are configured to your pool’s specific needs, and therefore will offer the most energy savings. Most variable speed pumps offer pre-set speeds, or are fully programmable, allowing you to select the rpm of the motor. Slow the Flow ~ and you reduce the amperage draw or power to run the pump. Speeds can be as low as 400 rpm, to a full 3450 rpm, capable of flow rates equal to a 3hp Whisperflo pump – if needed, for water features or spa jets, for example.

With two speed and variable speed pumps you will see a higher initial investment, but in energy savings alone you can recoup that money in a short time. Payback, in electrical savings, can be in as little as 2 seasons. Variable speed pumps also have the added benefit of being extremely quiet, cool running, and the unique motor design is built for a long-life of outdoor, continuous duty.

If you need to meet the new pool pump law requirements in your state, or just want to save hundreds on your energy bill, look to the full rated, energy efficient Whisperflo pump. Compare the flow charts of your existing pump with the Whisperflo chart (look in the Owner’s Manual), and buy a smaller horsepower. Or, install a 2 speed pump and you can operate high speed for just a few hours per day, then low-speed (1/8hp) for 12-18 hours daily. If you really want to save the most money, and you already are using a big pump, look to the variable speed pumps by Pentair or Hayward.

If you are not looking to improve energy consumption and are satisfied with your pump’s performance, then there is nothing wrong with getting an exact replacement. This option will usually be the easiest installation since you will not have to move plumbing around. Just don’t be tempted to “drop-in a V-8” when it comes time to replace the pump. Bigger is not Better when it comes to pool pumps!

Thank you for taking the time to learn more about pool pumps and why they are so important to your pool.Whether you are looking for Standard, 2-Speed or Variable Speed pool pumps, we have them here at In The Swim. For questions on sizing a pool pump, or just much more info about pool pump selection – see this post aptly titled “What’s the Best Pool Pump?”.

Vermiculite is the usual choice of floor material for inground vinyl liner pools. it is not the cheapest option for your floor, but it is long lasting and one of the easier floor materials to install. This article covers the necessary steps and supplies for installing your own vermiculite and cement pool floor.

Where to Buy Pool Vermiculite

Finding it locally in your area can sometimes be difficult. First, I would check with nearby hardware stores and also local pool dealers. Concrete supply stores and even commercial lawn and garden places.

Buy pool floor vermiculite at the time you purchase your pool, and it can be delivered along with the pool kit, or you can buy local, just make sure that you use coarse grade vermiculite for your pool floor – as shown in the image above. it is much easier to mix and work with than fine or medium grade vermiculite.

Another option is to call the two largest manufacturers of the product to see where it can be purchased in your area, they are Whittemore at 978-681-8833 and Schundler at 732-287-2244. These two companies are the major suppliers of vermiculite in the US.

There is another product that can be used, one of which is Perlite, a volcanic glass that has similar properties to vermiculite and can be installed instead of vermiculite. If you are having trouble finding vermiculite in your area, call a few large garden centers in your area, to see if they stock Perlite. Stone Dust (crush-n-run) also makes an excellent pool base.

When is the Pool Floor Installed?

The time to install the pool floor is after the walls have been secured with the concrete collar, poured around the base of the walls. After that, you put on your pool coping and wall foam and face plate gaskets for skimmer and light and then install the pool liner.

How Much Vermiculite Is Needed for Pool Floors?

It depends on the size of your pool; I have created this small chart to help you order the right amount of material to cover the floor areas with a layer that is 1-2″ thick. Vermiculite is sold in a common size of 4 cubic feet, and you may be surprised at how light it is . Portland cement comes in 94 lb bags, and you may be surprised at how heavy these are! If storing your product outside, be sure to wrap it tightly with plastic or tarps, to keep any rain from touching the bags.

How is Pool Floor Vermiculite Mixed?

Vermiculite is mixed on site and in a cement mixer called a paddle mixer, which can be rented at any rental shop. You will need Portland cement on hand to complete the mix. The ratio is 2 bags of Vermiculite to 1 bag of cement. The Vermiculite and cement go into the mixer and then you’ll add about two and a half 5-gallon buckets of water, until you reach an oatmeal consistency that you can trowel easily.

Leave it in the mixer for about 20-30 seconds and that should do it. If it seems to loose and runny, add less water and if it’s too stiff, add more water to the next mix. In the picture below, the fellow on the right is dumping from the mixer into the wheelbarrow, and then moving the mixture to the areas where it’s needed. In the middle picture, they are bringing in buckets full of the mixture and in the left side picture, these guys are taking the easy route. They are using a combination cement mixer and pump, and are spraying the mixture down before troweling it smooth – faster and easier!

What About Pre-Mixed Vermiculite?

There is another product that I know as PreMix, which is a mixture of vermiculite and cement together in one bag. Just add water! This is the same product and will give you the same results, just without the need to mix two products together. Pre-mix product is sold under such names as Pool Base or Pool Mix. If you can buy it locally, it may be worth the extra expense, but if you have to pay large shipment fees, it can end up costing 30-40% more than buying both Portland and Vermiculite locally and mixing it yourself on-site.

How to Install Your Pool Floor

Before troweling in the vermiculite you want to have your pool bottom approximately 2″ below the finished level. This is done with string lines throughout the pool bottom to the finished grade or depth of the pool floor. To install your vermiculite pool bottom you will need:

• Cement Mixer
• Wheel barrows
• 4 to 6 five-gallon buckets
• Garden hose or water source
• Shovel, a steel bullnose trowel and a wood float

Mix up for 20-30 seconds, dump the mix into the wheelbarrow underneath the mixer, then shovel into the 5 gallon buckets, and hand them down into the pool. Bring the buckets to the deep end back wall and start dumping them in place, ready for troweling from the bottom of the hopper pad, up to the wall panel. it is easier to go from bottom of the side slopes, and work your way up to the top. Use the wood float for support and tamping, as you trowel the mixture smooth and level with the bullnose float.

After the back wall is complete work on the side slopes. After these are complete, you can start on the hopper pad and then work up the slope from deep end to shallow floor. The last area to do is the shallow area and either back yourself into the walk-in step or into a corner so you can easily get out without stepping on the troweled bottom. See picture at top of page.

You want your finished product to be right up to your string lines and nice and smooth like concrete. Allow the pool bottom to completely dry and harden up before you walk on it. I generally let it dry overnight and continue the next day with the pool project. There are other parts of the pool that can be done while this is drying.

After the bottom is dry, and before installing the liner, sweep the pool bottom and remove any loose vermiculite or other debris so there is nothing on the bottom that will show up under the liner. Any divots can be filled, and raised lips can be smoothed. The smoother your vermiculite pool bottom is, the better your liner will look, so this is one part of the pool installation to take your time and do it right.

I had a customer 2 years ago purchase a large Full L shaped pool, probably the largest pool I have sold through Specialty Pool Products. The size of the Full L pool was 26′ x 35′ x 60′ and they were looking to create a practice area for their kids that are on the high school diving team.

Originally this customer wanted the pool to be 12ft deep in the deep end diving area of the pool but our manufacturer will not provide Dig Specs for any pool deeper than 10ft deep. This customer also wanted to order a commercial dive stand and a 12ft long diving board. I told them about the very strict standards on what can be a diving pool and that a 12′ diving board would not be a possible selection because it did not meet code. I was able to get them an 10ft diving board with a steel stand which they are very happy with.

When it comes to a diving pool for a residential pool the diving stand and board must meet the minimum specification requirements for a residential inground diving pool. The governing body of the residential pools is ANSI/APSP/ICC-5 2011 and all residential pools must meet these requirements. Please see detailed requirements below for a residential diving pool; these dimensions can be very confusing. To help explain the minimum requirements the pool must be a minimum of 16ft wide and 32ft long and have at least an 8 ft hopper. The hopper is the area in the deep end which the water is deeper.

ANSI/APSP/ICC-5 2011 Standard for Residential In-Ground Swimming Pools

It is VERY important to ensure that the stand and board meet the minimum specifications for in-ground residential swimming pools.

Diving Board Safety Envelope – Depth/Distance

All of the options below must meet the ANSI/APSP/ICC-5 2011 for installation requirements. Check with chart above to figure what what class pool you have or are installing so you can figure what options are available for a diving pool. There are typically 4 classifications for a residential diving pool.

• Dive Rocks – Provides an elegant diving board base option for customers that want to have the natural rock design in their backyard. This unique looking diving board base adds beauty and functionality to your backyard swimming pool. One of the Dive Rocks is called Boulder Springs from Interfab, this is available as a 6ft or 8ft option. As a rule of thumb a 16’x32′ pool can only install the 6ft option and our standard 18’x36′ & 20’x40′ can have either the 6ft or 8ft options installed on their pool.
• Jump Boards – as with all diving boards you must classify the type of pool you have 1-5 to determine the proper size jump board for your backyard. When installing this jump board you must follow manufacturer’s requirements. One popular jump board which is especially recommended for a pool that has a salt water chlorine generator is the SR Smith Saltwater diving board. This diving board is available in 6ft or 8ft sizes. This is manufactured out of composite materials and guaranteed to resist rust often caused by salt water in pools. This diving board has composite springs with active spring feature which gives you a lot of spring when jumping off the diving board into the pool.

• Diving Boards – We have many different diving boards to choose from our most popular is the style with the fiberglass diving base with either the 6ft or 8ft diving board. The sleek appearance and strong construction of the SR Smith Flyte Deck II Stand or the Interfab La Mesa make these two our most popular diving boards for vinyl pools.
• Competition boards are typically used only on commercial pools or very large residential pools. Depending on depth of the pool and the slope to the shallow end, a vinyl pool could safely install a 1/2 meter board, but not a 3/4 meter or 1 meter board. The Interfab Techni-Beam 10 ft board could be a suitable practice board for

Installation of a dive stand and dive board

When installing a diving board or dive stand it is VERY important to follow the manufacturer’s installation instructions. There are certain requirements with installing a diving board such as how far the base of the diving board is located from the edge of pool water, how far board extends over the pool, and height above the pool water see instructions for very detailed guidelines and it is mandatory to follow these specifications in order to properly install your diving board. A properly installed diving board will help eliminate a careless injury.

Please make sure you pay very close attention to the technical information in regards to the installation there is a minimum distance from the edge of the pool to the stand on the diving board that is required. There are also requirements for bonding the diving board stand in many parts of the country, or connecting it to the electrical bonding wire that runs around the pool. Understanding the requirements for a diving board can be very confusing so give one of our experts at SPP a call and we can help make sure you get what is needed for your particular pool.

Seeing the kids’ smiles on their faces is priceless as they cannonball into the pool so keep those kids happy and install a diving board with your new inground swimming pool.

Q: Can I use Bromine on my Outdoor Pools?

The question above (“Can I use Bromine”) came from a manager of several outdoor pools in Northern Virginia. Over the summer, their accountants had raised a flag, shocked at the chemical expenses this year, and suggested the company begin to look for alternatives.

One of them undoubtedly stumbled across Bromine online, and noticed that Bromine has some distinct advantages over chlorine for pool and spa sanitation.

1. Bromamines continue to be ready sanitizers, unlike chloramines
2. Bromamines don’t gas-off the surface as readily as chloramines
3. Bromine is pH balanced, unlike very high pH of liquid chlorine
4. Bromine remains stable at higher temperatures
5. Bromide ions can be activated into Free Bromine, by shocking
6. Bromine is gentler than chlorine on the skin, hair and eyes

…OK, but Can I use Bromine in Swimming Pools?

A: Yes, with the following Caveats

1. Bromine cannot be stabilized from the sun, and slowly depletes in bright sunshine
2. Bromine is more expensive, expect to pay 25% more than chlorine sticks
3. Bromine must be dispensed in a brominator, and never in a used chlorinator

Bromine tablets are a good option for indoor pools or outdoor pools with automatic covers or solar blankets. Pools which receive little sunlight during the day could also be a good candidate.

Bromine doesn’t burn off as fast in the sun as unstabilized chlorine, due to its lower molecular activity. If your pool is shaded for most of the day, with just 1-2 hours of direct sun, you may not notice much sunlight degradation.

Shocking a Bromine Pool: Shocking for the removal of bromamines is not needed under most circumstances, however, all swimming pools should be shocked periodically for the removal of bacteria and break down of contaminants. Shocking a bromine pool is done the same way as a normal pool, only you needn’t worry about ‘breakpoint chlorination’. Chlorine shock or non-chlorine shock can be used.

An interesting thing happens when you shock a bromine pool. The addition of hypochlorous acid reactivates bromide ions, converting them into bromine. Once you build a bank of bromide in your pool, you can continuously reactivate it, and it begins to take fewer bromine tablets to maintain your residual.

Speaking of residual, bromine pools test at a higher level of bromine than chlorine pools. This is due to the weight of bromine being twice as heavy as chlorine, so when using a chlorine test kit (DPD or OTO), the equivalent measures are given. Generally, a 2-4 ppm residual of bromine is sufficient. It’s not that there’s twice as much bromine in the water, but that it tests differently than chlorine.

Use Bromine Tablets for:

1. Indoor Pools and Enclosed Pools.
2. Pools with automatic covers or (blue) solar blankets.
3. Pools that receive less than 2 hours per day of direct sunlight.

Spas and Hot Tubs, covered most of the time, should use bromine. One should never use pool chlorine tablets in a spa or hot tub.

Speaking in an exclusive interview with Téléfoot, Chelsea winger Eden Hazard discussed the impending award for Premier League Player of the Year, for which both he and N’Golo Kanté are nominated.

“I hope that it will be him, that would change things a little from being the guy who scores the entire time, who is always making decisive contributions (assists or goals). He is making less decisive contributions on the pitch than an attacker. As well, last year he won it, it would recompense him for the two good seasons that he has done. Of course, I would like to win it, but if I had to choose who to give it to, I would give it to him.”

Click Here: Stone Island Jacket

Spring rains have subsided, lawns and gardens have been the primary focus of attention. The garage is even getting somewhat organized, and as the days start to finally promise some consecutive sunshine you turn to the last but not least most important thing in the yard that’s often the final spring project for many homeowners: the swimming pool!

Some folks are lucky. The pump primes right up, water circulates, there are no leaks, and they are off to good start. For others, a common fate is shared as they open to a non-working pump, cracked or damaged filters, or just now remember the previous season’s struggle with a filter system that was just not doing the job anymore.

If you are still struggling to clear the pool water, here’s information that can be useful to you, our Beginner’s Guide to Pool Filters.

Filtration, Filtration, Filtration

To help you comprehend, I first must exude a pool pro’s wisdom with the mantra: “Filtration, filtration, filtration!” as this is the true secret to keeping a pool clear!

The pump and filter system is the heart of your pool and it does most of the cleaning and clarifying, so make sure it’s functioning well and sized properly.

There are a variety of filter brands and models for every size pool, in-ground and aboveground alike. Some great brands are Hayward, Pentair, Jandy, and Waterway and they are sold as filter only or as a system with a pump.

Aboveground systems usually include hoses and fittings, a pump, and base so they are a “plug and play” purchase. For smaller pools and soft-sided pools there are some nice products from Intex and GAME that are easy on the budget, too.

Generally, they all carry similar warranties and have the same basic features and functions. You just need to place your faith in a brand and go for it like you would if you were choosing any other household appliance like a new stove.

What I have found is that most folks replace their old one with the same type and/or brand that was there when they bought the home, buy the same kind their parents had, or take a tip from a friend or neighbor. By the way, your pump and filter can be different brands, no problem there.

A good source of pool filter advice (outside of mine) would be to ask any one of these people, read some good pool blogs, manufacturer sites, and/or read some real reviews on line.

So let’s dive into the details of the three main types of swimming pool filters, sand, cartridge, and DE, and distill some differences.

SAND FILTERS

A sand filter is comprises a hollow tank on a stand with a simple vertical PVC pipe stand in the center that extends to the bottom and is fitted into a manifold with slotted lateral pipes extending in a fanned out fashion looking much like wagon wheel spokes on an axle tipped on end.

Sand filters are filled with, you guessed it, sand, but not just any sand. You can fill it with a Pool Filter Sand, (#20 grade silica sand for pools at $4.99-$9.99/50 lbs.), Zeolite (a premium high porosity filter media at $39.99/50 lbs.), or Filter Glass (recycled crushed glass that actually filters out blood cells and entraps cryptosporidium at $44.99/50 lbs.).

Traditionally, Sand Filters are filled 2/3 full and a handy multiport valve sits on top with an O-ring and a clamp band to seal and secure the valve to the filter. The multiport valve allows you to control all of the filter functions externally.

Note that variable valves vary. Try to say that 10 times in a row! Some models have a threaded top mount valve or a side-mounted one that is fixed to the side of the tank via two bulkhead unions. They can have 1.5-inch ports or have 2″ ports.

Multiport valves, also used on DE filters, typically have six positions but can have from four to eight. They are set to “filter” mode most of the time. You can use the valve to recirculate, vacuuming to waste, or to drop your water level for closing. Check your owner’s manual for full functionality and closing recommendations.

How it all works: Water flows through the valve and diffuser, passes through the sand bed, which captures fine debris particulates, and travels through the slotted laterals up through the standpipe and goes back to the pool.

As the sand bed slowly plugs up, your pressure gauge, located on the valve (or dome for side mounts) will rise in pressure. Keep in mind that the more a sand filter plugs up, the finer the particulates that are captured so it’s good to let it plug up somewhat, and not backwash too frequently.

Normal operating pressure depends on your pump size and overall resistance in the system, but most residential tanks will start at between 10-20 psi and when the pressure rises 8-10 pounds, it is time to backwash the filter.

To backwash a sand filter, cut the power to the pump and reverse the valve, then turn the pump back on. The water flows in reverse and dirty water is sent out another port on the valve, where you will have attached a backwash hose with a clamp and flushed to the lawn, or wherever your backwash hose may lead.

Just make sure it goes away from the pool and, if heavily chlorinated, away from any flowers or gardens. It is best to do this when your chlorine or sanitizer is low so you don’t waste it! Flushing for two minutes or so should do it or you can watch the discharge water or sight glass on the valve until the water runs clear. Shut the pump off and return the valve to filter mode.

Sand will filter down to about 20 microns (1 micron is equal to 10-100 human hair widths) and should be replaced every three to five years. Smaller tanks may be emptied at the end of the season so it is easy to store away the filter and then replaced with fresh sand each spring. Winterizing involves a heavy backwash then simply draining the tank by unscrewing a plug at the bottom and putting the valve in “winterize” position to drain the valve itself.

You will know the filter is working if the water pressure coming into the pool is strong, the pump basket housing is always full of water, the gauge pressure is normal, and the pool water stays clear.

Top Mount Sand Filters vs. Side Mount Sand Filters

Top mounted sand filters are always sold with a multiport valve that is flange attached to the top of the filter tank. Top mount sand filters also include all internals (standpipe, hub, laterals), and the drain assembly. Top mount sand filters are cheaper for manufacturers to make, because the top-mount design is simpler, and much fewer parts are used.

1. Top mounted multiport valve can be rotated to align with pump and other equipment.
2. Lower cost filters;  from reduced cost of manufacturing top mount sand filters.
3. Fewer parts than side mounted tanks; no bulkheads or top closure assembly.

Side mounted sand filters are sold separately from the valve, a multiport or slide valve, primarily because you have a choice. A slide valve (aka push-pull valve) offers only two functions, filter or backwash, but can be preferred because of (much) lower resistance than a multiport valve, and because the simple design requires fewer repairs.

1. Side mount filters are NSF certified for commercial pools to NSF/ANSI Standard 50.
2. Side mount filters can use a slide valve for higher flow rates and reduced restriction.
3. Side mount filters provide easier access to inspect sand and service internal parts.

Sand Bed Rejuvenation: You can clean your sand or zeolite with a quart of Filter Sand cleaner to disinfect the media, decalcify, and rejuvenate the bed.

Filter Sand Change: To empty or change the sand you simply disconnect the hoses or PVC, remove the valve, and carefully remove scoop by scoop with a coffee mug or soup can. When you’ve removed most of the sand, the standpipe and lateral assembly can be folded up or unscrewed and removed so that you can use a bigger scoop and eventually tip over the tank and rinse it out. Then replace the inner components, center and cover the pipe so sand does not get in it, add enough water to cover the laterals, and replace with new sand. Remove the cover, clamp on the valve and you are good to go!

Sand Filter Parts: Commonly replaced filter parts would include drain assembly parts or laterals. Sand filters have very few parts, which make them simpler to work on than DE filters.

CARTRIDGE POOL FILTERS

For those who want more simplicity than the aforementioned filtration apparatus, and a worry-free setup, the cartridge filter may the way to go! This style of filter has taken the aboveground market by storm due to its simple design and ease of use.

Many cartridge filters are tall and narrow so they save on space and, unlike sand, the filter is a simple two-piece tank (lid and bottom). They use a spun, bonded polyester, fan folded filter much like a cylindrical automotive air filter.

Cartridge filters have the most available filter surface area, ranging from 50-500 square feet. The cartridge has less resistance so you get more turnover in gallons over the same horsepower with sand, with less strain on your pump. This also means you can run it for fewer hours and save electricity and money! Some filter cartridges are also available in an antimicrobial version: Microban.

Here’s how they work: Water is pushed into the filter tank from your pump and flows through the filter membrane. Fine particles and debris are trapped in the fabric and clean water returns back to the pool. A gauge on top lets you know when it’s time to clean.

When the pressure swings up 10 points or so it is time to remove the cartridge and you just hose it down. No backwashing means you save on heated and chemically treated water too, although you do have to spend some time if you want to really deep clean between the pleats. There are also some nice tools you can buy that fit on your garden hose just for this.

A cartridge filter tank comes apart with a belly clamp or knob on the top. For aboveground pool owners, be sure to close off the skimmer and return jets before you open the tank or you will have a water gusher. Some systems come with shut off valves to prevent this or you can add them yourself. Slice, gate, or ball valves work great.

Cartridge Rejuvenation: Occasionally, the cartridge needs more than a hosing. Soak it overnight in a large bucket of water and cartridge cleaner. If your bucket is not deep enough, just flip the filter over and repeat. Filter cleaners can restore the cartridge to its original white condition, and remove oils and mineral deposits.

Cartridge Replacement: The cartridge will last for one to three seasons depending on how many hours of use and how much cleaning it must do, but eventually they become fuzzy, the support straps break, and they either collapse or just get too stained and dirty to keep clean.

Many folks buy a new cartridge every few years and keep the old one just for spring cleanup. Replacing a cartridge is a back saver and much easier than all that sand! Replacement filters average about 75 cents a square foot and are easy to find on line or in most pool stores.

Cartridge Filter Parts: Commonly replaced parts include the tank lid O-ring, gauge, and cartridges. Since there is no multiport valve, cartridge filters often need the least amount of repair parts of all filter types.

DE POOL FILTERS

And in the spirit of saving the best for last, we have the Diatomaceous Earth filter! If you can’t pronounce it you can just call it DE!

DE powder is a fine natural powder composed of the fossilized exoskeletons of tiny diatoms that once thrived in the sea and are now layered underground. DE particles are hollow with high porosity so they make an excellent filter media.

Grids are held in place by a top and bottom manifold while the fingers are sandwiched between two pressure plates and a diaphragm gasket that allows the tubes to be shaken, but not stirred (haha, couldn’t resist that one!).

The amount of available filter area for DE filters falls between sand and cartridge from 24-60 square feet. Your manual will tell you how much DE to add based on the mode, which is normally 1 pound of DE for each 5 square feet of filter area.

Here’s how they work: Sprinkle the powder into your skimmer, which draws it into the filter and coats either fabric coated grids or a cluster of “fingers” with a fine layered top coat. A pound of DE goes for about $1.00 and is usually sold in 25 lb. bags.

DE powder is fine enough to let water pass through but almost nothing else! By using a DE filter you filter down below 5 microns and actually achieve a whole different level of water clarity: crystal clear water. But there is a downside in that spring startup can be a chore because the media is so fine it plugs up quickly and regularly and you will go through a good supply of DE if your pool is quite dirty or has experienced an algae bloom.

But let it be known that these trusty filters are designed for this and you simply bump and shake the debris from the fingers with the top mounted bump handle on most models or use the multiport valve on the grid style filters to just backwash out the collected debris. Either way it gets flushed away through a valve at the bottom of the tank or backwash hose, and you can re-add DE to the skimmer and the cycle starts over again.

DE Filter Rejuvenation: DE filter grids and fingers need periodic soaking just like a cartridge, especially in cases where the water is hard and the pores can calcify. DE filter cleaner is readily available to remedy this and the components are accessible by loosening a belly ring or unbolting the lid and separating the top half of the tank from the bottom. Again, shut-off valves are helpful for above ground cleanouts whereas in ground equipment owners should have no worries unless the top of the tank is situated below the pool water level. Grids and finger “nests” can be soaked overnight in a pail with the cleaner, then rinsed with a hose and replaced in the tank.

DE Grid Replacement: Grids can last up to 10 years, but eventually they may become ripped and torn, or the plastic beneath the fabric can break. Of all filter types, however, DE filter media can be the longest lasting.

DE Filter Parts: Common replacement parts are E-clips, O-rings, gauge, tank O-ring, and over time you may need to replace filter grids or fingers. DE filters have the most parts of all filter types, so may require a few extra repairs.

DO I NEED A NEW FILTER?

Start with your eyes and ears. If the pump is whining, grinding, corroded, or sucking air and your filter is leaking at the ports, just not keeping the pool clear, or it looks physically worn, it may be time for a new one. If a pump lasts 10 years, that is excellent!

A filter tank can theoretically last forever, but chemicals, weather, UV rays, and age can take its toll. If you can keep your equipment covered or surrounded by a wall, that is the best way to protect your investment. My system is next to the garage and we added a simple roof on two supports so we have had the same filter (tank) since 1979! I’ve replaced the filter media many times, however.

Some filters are woefully undersized. If you are cleaning your filter more than once per month, it may be too small for your pool. If you have frequent battles with algae, cloudy water or difficulty managing water clarity, your filter could be too small or the filter media inside has become tired and needs replacement.

FINAL THOUGHTS

It would seem that the good old sand filter is easy enough to use with external controls and contains just a few parts. Operation is a snap when all you do is move a valve handle, and if you use the 20 grade silica sand, it is inexpensive but some work to change. Performance is good and you have just a few wear and tear parts with the valve itself.

The cartridge filter has the least amount of parts and is the second best method of filtration. The negative is the cost of replacing the cartridge and cleaning between the all those pleats can be tedious. But it’s a no-brainer how easy it is to use when you just plop in a cartridge and let it go!

DE filters, although they outclass the rest for producing sparkling clear water, are laden with parts, can be tedious and frustrating at startup, and let’s not forget that you must buy, store, and handle the DE powder. But that’s the price you pay for that over-the-top sparkling water clarity and for some it’s worth it!

No matter which type of filter you buy, here’s a few maintenance tips that should not be ignored. Always lube your O-rings in the spring with pool O-ring lube, use Teflon tape on threaded fittings. At the end of the season, give your sand filter media, grids or fingers, and cartridges a good cleaning and be sure to remove all drain plugs when winterizing.

Using shut-off valves and unions between your various pieces of pool equipment. It makes cleaning, servicing, and replacement a snap!

Whichever filter you decide is best for you and your pool. A new “heart” for your system may be just the breath of fresh life your pool needs. All three filter types are in use in someone’s yard today — tried-and-true methods of keeping a pool clean and clear so you can spend your time swimming and enjoying your pool.

A slide is a fun addition to a pool. You will know where your kids are because they and their friends will be all at your home. What better way to keep track of them and keep them out of trouble?

If you are building a new pool and decide you want a slide, this is quite easy because you would install the slide while doing the installation. Sometimes you decide you want a slide but cannot afford it at this time. You can have the plumbing set up to add a slide and when you have the money, you can just add the slide. If you move into a home that has a pool and decide you want to add a slide, that is not a problem either.

3 TYPES OF POOL SLIDES

Before you rush out and buy a pool slide, you will want to do a little research. There are basically three different slide categories, based on how they are attached to the deck. Check the footprint of the slide you are interested in. The footprint is how much space you need to install the slide legs and ladder. You need to make sure you can use the slide you choose on your pool, in terms of its footprint and your water depth. Each slide also has its own weight capacity, from 200-275 pounds, which could be an important factor.

Straight leg pool slides are the first group. This includes the City II, White Water and the Wild Ride slides. These slides have an open or closed stairway. If you have small children the closed stairway would be much safer. The weight capacity on these slides ranges from 225-250 pounds.

These pool slides have some small flexibility in their placement, as long as your water depth and overhang are in agreement with the Water Safety Envelope. Because of this the footprint will vary, from 12 feet by 5 feet to 8 feet by 8 feet, depending on the orientation that you install the slide, see right.

Molded slide legs are another group. These slides would be the 8-foot-tall Turbo Twister, Typhoon and the Cyclone. The Cyclone comes in the right turn only while the Twister and Typhoon have left or right turns. These slides have enclosed stairways, rather than the traditional open ladder, which is generally safer for kids.

The footprint on these slides ranges depending on the model; the Twister footprint is roughly 13 feet by 7 feet, and the Typhoon is 12 feet by 5 feet. The smaller Cyclone Fun Slide only needs roughly 5 feet by 7 feet of pool deck space and 42 inches water depth (most other slides require 48 inches water depth). The weight limit on these slides ranges from 250-275 pounds.

Elephant leg slides are the third group of pool slides. This would include the G-Force and the X-stream slides. The G-Force has a circular 360-degree design while the X-stream comes in left or right turn. The G-Force 360 slide has a much smaller footprint (9 feet by 7 feet), requiring much less deck space for mounting. The X-Stream slide is large and needs about 14 feet by 9 feet of deck space. It has a 250 pound weight limit.

COLORS: When checking out the different slides, you will want to be aware that each slide has different colors. They do not all come in the same color and this may help in deciding the slide you want to buy and install.

FOOTPRINT: Before you can choose a slide you need to see how much room you have to place the slide. Each slide has a different footprint (amount of deck space needed for installation). Each slide also has a unique Water Safety Envelope. This includes how deep the water has to be at the end of the slide, how much overhang on the edge of the pool, and how much clearance (and depth) is required in front of the slide exit.

WATER DEPTH: Basically, slides must be installed over a water depth of 36 inches, which quickly drops to 42-54 inches. All slides have different specs, but most Water Safety Envelope requirements will require the slide be installed on one of the long sides of the pool, in the mid-depth section of the pool between the shallow and deep end. It can’t be too shallow or too deep. Read the spec sheet for each pool slide you are considering to find exact depth measurements.

WATER SAFETY ENVELOPE

This is the space in front of the slide exit: the overhang of the slide deck, the depth of the water at the point of entry. The water safety envelope is very important to follow to make sure that the slide is installed safely to reduce the chance of injury. Be sure to read the placement information carefully before ordering a pool slide, as each slide has its own restrictions on where it can be placed on your pool.

• The slide overhang is a specific distance.
• The height above the water is also specific.
• The water depth at slide entry is very specific.
• The walkway around the slide must also be safe for traffic.

Check the water depth at the edge of the pool and also 6 feet from the edge of the wall to be sure of depth.

POOL DECK TYPES

No doubt about it, pool slides take up a lot of room, a large footprint. Also consider the traffic to and from the slide. It should be roomy enough for several people to safely line up. The deck surface should be non-skid and well drained. The Cyclone and G-Force are the smallest, but if you discover that more deck space is needed, there are a few things you can do.

If you need more deck space, you may be able to add to your deck area, or you can use pavers and secure the slide into pavers (consult the manufacturer’s instructions). Pavers will have to be secured correctly, usually placed into a deep cement pad poured onto a bed of gravel. This heavy concrete pad can be used instead of enlarging the deck, in most cases, especially for smaller slides.

Most pool decks slope a little so that water will run off the deck. Usually the slope is very slight, at 1/4 inch per foot, but if your pool deck has slipped or was poured with an aggressive pitch, you may need to make adjustments during installation.

Your pool deck must be a solid surface; it can’t be loose pavers or wood. Especially for the larger size slides, make sure you have a solid footing underneath. If you’re uncertain, give us a call or send some pictures.

POOL SLIDE INSTALLATION

TOOLS: The following tools are needed for most slide installations:

• Socket wrench set, pliers and vice grips
• Rotary hammer drill, regular hammer
• Screwdrivers, hex key set
• Measuring tape, carpenter’s level

LABOR: Two people would be great to have on hand to install a slide. The hardest part will be lifting the slide into place. With two people you are looking at about 4-8 hours to build the slide, anchor it and hook up the water line.

INSTALLATION: First read the installation manual and the owner’s manual for the slide. Once you taken some deck measurements and calculated the near exact position, you can assemble the slide. Each slide is a little different to construct; just follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

The way a slide attaches may be a little different. For the most part you mark where you are going to place slide, using a measuring tape and chalk or paint. Before drilling any holes, double check all measurements for the overhang of the flume or lip of the slide.

You can use the ladder anchor or the assembled slide as a template for drilling the holes. Mark the anchoring holes with paint or a marker. Drill the holes, clean out the dust and insert your deck bolt. The deck bolt will come up through the deck into the slide. Nuts are then used to tighten the slide ladder, legs and feet to the pool deck. Slides come with the hardware needed to bolt your slide into a concrete pool deck.

WATER SUPPLY: Slides usually use the water supply from the pool. If that is not a possibility there are some hookups that can be done by a hose; however, larger slides generally require more water flow than you get from a garden hose. Each manufacturer and slide has different options when hooking up the water supply, but most come up under the ladder, as shown in the picture.

When adding the water supply you will need to connect a hose that comes with the slide upon the under side of the slide and install a ball valve to connect the water to the filter. If the slide is installed on a brand new pool, the plumber can plumb the slide line in advance. If you are installing the slide later, you will need to plumb the slide water line from the pool’s return line. An existing deck can be cut to add a water line up to the best point under the slide.

TIPS: Double check to verify the slide overhang and the depth of the water are both correct. Follow all manufacturer instructions, and if you have any questions, give us a call. We are happy to help. During slide assembly, make sure all the screws are tightened up and the connected slide sections are flush and very snug.

Swimming pool slides are great fun and safe when correctly installed and used. If your pool is an active pool, few accessories bring more smiles than fast pool slide. If you have questions or concerns about installing a pool slide with your in-ground pool kit or installing your own slide years later, contact any one of our pool experts. We are here six days a week and love to help you improve your pool!

Looking for the first 14″ (35cm) school bag for your baby? The 14″ (35cm) Kindergarten Backpack, more than a plush bag, the ideal bag for your baby, a cute companion that he will be proud to show off!

Characteristics of the Panda Bag Fun

• Made of cotton, soft and fluffy, its fur is pleasant to the touch.
• This 9″ or 14″ (23 or 35cm) comfort bag has adjustable straps.
• Bag of 9″ (23cm) not compatible with the A4 format.
• This backpack is suitable for children over 18 months.
• This 14″ (35cm) Backpack is composed of several zipped pockets in which your child will be able to put the essentials for a leisure outing or for a day in kindergarten, like his snack, his toys and even his little secrets…
• This Plush Bag is very soft with a fine fur mostly made of white, with ears, paws and eyes made up of black in the image of my beloved Panda.
• It’s not just a plush bag, it’s a companion to cuddle. The Backpack for the nursery, my cute and very soft friend. To take everywhere.

Nylon panda backpack, totally cute for my baby! Kawaii style too cute!

Perfect as a first nursery bag for my little schoolboy.

Characteristics of the Panda Bag Baby

• Material: nylon.
• Dimension: 8.2×6.7×4″ / 21×17 x10cm
• Weight : 0.33lbs / 150g
• Straps : small adjustable straps.
• Bag not compatible with the A4 format.
• Age range : 2 to 4 years.