The statement sunglasses throwing shade on the runway

Courrèges ready-to-wear spring/summer 2019.

Karl Lagerfeld in signature black, Jackie Kennedy in supersized ovals, Audrey Hepburn in Manhattans, Elton John in kooky and outlandish, Tom Hiddleston and Tilda Swinton in Wayfarers in
Only Lovers Left Alive – everyone has their own take on wearing sunglasses. And the 1920s-born accessory is as synonymous with celebrity and the silver screen as it is with sunshine. But lately, sunglasses have experienced quite the design overhaul with a presence on the international spring/summer ‘19 catwalks that has seen them go from supporting to starring role.

Sunglasses took on the guise of ski masks at Gucci and Loewe, but were conversely thin with bold framework at Courrèges; Prada opted for insect-like styles, while Balenciaga went playful and oversized, and Dior got very reflective. And at new-look Celine, almost every look was accompanied by a pair of shades to underpin the burgeoning cool factor.

Balenciaga ready-to-wear spring/summer 2019.

“Design has evolved from the traditional offer of basic metal-frame aviators and acetate readers to more statement pieces that express individualism,” says Gary Bott, director of cult frame innovator Gentle Monster. Since launching in 2011, the Korean brand has become known for its experimentation with signature collections, such as the bestselling Flatba, which features the lens mounted on top of the frame, not inside, to create a flat and clean aesthetic.

“We experiment, not just with product design but also spatial design,” Bott says, referring to the brand’s penchant for unique retail concepts. Which, as a result, perhaps goes some way in explaining why sunglasses across the board have now become so much more designed and statement-making than ever before.

Gucci ready-to-wear autumn/winter ‘19/‘20.

A look ahead to the autumn/winter ‘19/‘20 collections and this trend shows no signs of abating: sunglasses are morphing into full-on visors at Gucci and retro-slim rectangles at Louis Vuitton, while the latter’s cruise 2020 collection proffers jewel-hued lenses and goggle-aviation shapes, often worn with a helmet-type head cap.

The beauty, of course, is that sunglasses quickly and completely transform your appearance. The allure is in the styling, something that strikes a chord in 2019 as we increasingly devote time to what we wear and look like on the digital screen and the social media lens replaces Hollywood’s.

Louis Vuitton ready-to-wear autumn/winter ‘19/‘20.

It might be no surprise to hear then that for luxury online retailer Net-A-Porter, sunglasses are its third most searched accessory, with Balenciaga leading the way with its super-designed aesthetic, and new brand Anna-Karin Karlsson, with its ostentatious bling, also performing well. The e-tailer has plans to further indulge our optical obsession with the launch of the Insta-friendly Barcelona brand Kaleos (think pronounced, angular and confident shapes that will get you noticed) and will play host to Zimmermann’s first sunglasses line (the brand is currently best known for its swimwear).

Loewe ready-to-wear spring/summer 2019.

Historically, the existence of sunglasses can be traced back as far as Roman times when, supposedly, Emperor Nero would watch gladiator sports through an emerald to protect his eyes from the light. Similarly, the Inuit are said to have worn snow goggles crafted from a piece of wood or bone with a small slit at the front to protect themselves from snow blindness. But the actual first pair of dark-lens glasses are thought to have been produced in 1885; while Sam Foster, the founder of the US eyewear maker Foster Grant, started mass-producing the eyewear in 1929. In 1936, Edwin H. Land introduced a polarised version.

Christian Dior ready-to-wear autumn/winter ‘19/‘20.

Each decade since has had its own defining styles – from the cat’s-eye of the 1950s to the playful plastics of the 1980s. The hallmark of the 2010s as it draws to a close? Sunglasses that in many ways speak of the entire evolution, or rather revolution, of the eyewear to date. Goggles, visors and masks are among the most throwback and avant-garde styles, while at the opposite end of the spectrum there are tiny, tech-y, sci-fi and futuristic looks. No longer just a cool or practical accessory, sunglasses are now a complex statement of individualistic style and intent.

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